dpatino

Well, my warhead's engine developed a serious problem today. When I first got it, it was hard to start and the recoil starter broke. The plastic piece that engages the one-way bearing sheared off. I have a starter box and had been starting the engine that way. It refused to run at the manual's stated settings of 4.5 turns out on the high speed and 12.5 turns out on the low speed. After getting help from more experienced rc engine guys, we were able to get it running with the needles turned in a bit. However every time I started it up the settings would change enough to keep the engine from running consistently. I had basically only run one tank a day due to these problems.

Well today I filled it up, started her up and started my standard breaking in run. Nice smooth accelerations back and forth on a smooth road. On a run back across in front of me, the engine just died. I figured it was just not tuned right, so brought it back in and tried to start it back up. I immediately noticed that the engine sounded different. So I stopped trying to start it and got one of the more experienced guys to help. He heard it try to start once and already knew something was wrong. We removed the glow plug, and you could see metal shavings on it. So we took the engine out of the car and removed the back plate. The connecting rod where it connects to the bearing on the crankshaft is elongated and has a lot of play in it. The guy helping me also removed the carburetor to see if there were any other problems, and we found that the lower o-ring was broke and not sealing correctly.

Putting all of these events together, the recoil starter, the spun rod, and the o-ring being broke, I think I got a bad engine... Should all of these problems be covered under the warranty? I just got the truck Wednesday from tower hobbies and already have all these problems. The guy helping me said it looked like it was bad from the factory. I'm going to call DuraTrax and or Tower hobbies or SuperTigre tomorrow (if they're open, if not Tuesday) and find out if I can get the engine replaced or something... Really would like to be able to use my new monster truck...

Is the guy that was helping me correct and these problems most likely started in the factory? I never ran it lean, and the temperature was always below 270... Don't think I did anything else wrong. Just started it (after fighting with the needle valve settings) and did the smooth running back and forth like the engine tuning / break in DVD showed..

Any thoughts?

spv1425

I'd start with Duratrax. They have very good customer support and have replaced parts with no questions asked like a recoil on my nephews. Same deal with his, it was hard to start and he had been having trouble keeping it running. When I tried I broke the recoil, the plastic inside it was sheared by the recoil line. They are sending a replacement for free. Just hope his engine doesn't have similiar issues. I bet Duratrax will send you a replacement.

elite

My Feedback: (2)

dtx will totally help you out there CS is very good. I am shocked to hear that becuase they make some of the best plane motors and its suprising but anythings possible. Even people buying 300 rossi motors have these isolated situations. Not all these motors are bad its a fluke for sure......But also, its possible the engine was flodded, and the hydro lock cause the PS to feel tight and thats how you broke off the plastic peice and perhaps that stress did some other damage to the one way of shaft or other internals....just a though. Not to say its your fault, but its possible.....Id call anyway....they will from my experience help you out.

dpatino

Here's a picture of the rod I just took:



spv1425 yup, that's exactly what happened to my recoil start. I hope they're open tomorrow.

FE_Chris

My Feedback: (2)

I was just breaking mine in today. The engine was so tight I had to loosen the glow plug to start it. Infact, 3 tanks into the WH and I still have to loosen it.... Guess we'll see after the fifth tank. Thats to bad man, sorry about your luck.

badxlt

you all mite have to lossen you plugs for up to 10 or more tanks i had to on all my big blocks and my hyper 21 i had to for about 16 os you may just have to for a while. and i have been told that a motor isnt fully broke in tell a galon so have fun. i hate braking in new motors it sucks bad[:'(]

supertib

This the the reason why you must disassemble a new engine, never ever run a engine as it comes from factory, too much chance of problems...there were likley metal filings which caused the damage....No RTR vehicle is truly RTR......everything must be disassembled, checked then reassembled.

EG1

IMO its much easier to use a heater/hair dryer to heat the engine up before starting. You won't even need to touch the glow plug, plus the plug washer will leak if you keep backing out the plug and re-tightening. Just blaze the engine w/ heat and it will pull over so much easier.

Starter box may have too much oomph to start a fresh big block too.

FE_Chris

My Feedback: (2)

heck yeah, Ia lways use a blow dryer when it is cold here in michigan. Anything below 60 degrees and I am blow drying hot air on the engine!!! Like tonight, my WH sat all day and I blew hot air at it for 1 min and it fired on the FIRST pull of the cord. It works great.

wyd

I couldn't believe how much easier it was to start my truck when I used the heat gun to heat the motor a tad before starting it. I never did that before but this truck seem to have a tighter pinch than any motor that I have ever had and wow I have had alot of motors.