jtrag

How did you do that?

Montana Mike

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just cruzing along, juiced it a little and it would not move. Engine was reving when I juiced it agin but stood still. walked over to it saw that the driveline was moving when I hit it and that the rear and front shafts were gone. found this rear next to the truck.

jtrag

Dang, that sucks. Good thing you can order the parts right off their website: http://www.towerhobbies.com

digout

Has anybody tried the Tower Terror to Trinity Nitro Spyder conversion. I have been running mine for a few months and find that this conversion gives one all the things that the Terror needed as upgrades. It has two speeds, thicker side plates, bell gear under the spur, stronger 8mm axles, 4 shock option and is longer. All parts interchange except for the two speed/reverse transmission. To use 17mm or 23mm wheels just add the hubs from other brands. So far this is my best budget truck.

Montana Mike

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do tell more please

digout

Here are some pictures...

Montana Mike

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So what all did you have to buy for this or is there a kit?

digout

There is no kit. I had to buy ($68) a used trinity Nitro Spyder off of E-Bay for the parts. Since the Terror and Spyder were both made by Flying Point, all parts interchanged except the 2speed. I installed the Terror arms/outdrives onto the Spyder and everything fit. As a Spyder, the parts are hard to find and expensive (Trinity sales a few) but since the Terror parts fits, the parts are inexpensive and plentiful from Tower. The two speed is what I was after in the conversion to get more speed and acceleration. Also the Spyder had a better brake setup than the Terror.

amf66

Sounds interesting. I might have to buy a Spyder and try this out...

Montana Mike

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Well I got out and Terror- ized the kids playground today, lots of fun for sure.

Montana Mike

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sheared off another dogbone though. Not to sure what to think about this 2 rear bones in 3 runs...hhhhhmmmmmmm?

aleknocker

I run 3 Terrors and have never sheared a rear dogbone, only fronts. Do you have to much power?
Also, are you doing a lot of jumping? I don't think these axles can take much of that.

Montana Mike

My Feedback: (1)

HPI K 4.6 so there is a bit yeah
how you doin these days Ale?

aleknocker

Maybe it's because when I jump, I back off the throttle till it lands. Maybe I'm just cautious. I don't know, but like I said, I've never broken a rear bone. The only thing I can think of is that you are having to much fun.

Montana Mike

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GUILTY AS CHARGED!!!!!!

madmax93

I had the Terror out today (it's been a while) and I was jumping some snow banks
and the rear hub/wheel broke, it was fun while it lasted.

daubut

Well after reading this thread (took a while) i decided to pull the trigger and order the TT MT from tower like most I got it with promos and GC for $249. First off let me say thanks to the guys here who did so much R&D on this thing. since I knew most of what to expect i decide to aliviate some of those problems right off the bat. As soon as the truck arrived I started tearing it down. I put blue locktite on every metal to metal screw I could find. I installed a fuel filter and zip ties on all tubing connections. I took out the crap glow plug that comes with it and installed an odonell SS med/hot glow plug. I oiled up the air filter with the recomended duratrax filter oil, I had some allready. I also took the crap servos out and installed 2 hitec HS-5645 MG servos and aluminum control horns. I filed flat spots on the stock arms to better seat the set screws and installed a rubber gromet in the base of the radio box to help water resist getting in there (since I'm in Alaska and it's quite snowy here). I tore the stock shocks down dumped out the crap oil and replaced it with some Team Losi silicone 40 wt shock oil. They all feel like good quality shocks now. I bought a Venom 5 cell 1600mah 6v reciever battery and it fit perfect. The first time I fired it up I decided to do the first tank running in the garage until it got to smoky then I would open up the doors and finish the tank down 3/4 of the way. Well filled the tank primed it up and set all needles where recomended. Fired up first pull but idle was super high, I killed it. Removed the air filter and checked the carb spacing at fully closed. Well the return spring was pulling it back but not all the way closed you could give it a thumb and it would close to the idle stop point. After further inspection I discovered the ball crank on the end of the throttle linkage was rubing the rubber boot over the slide part of the carb not allowing it to return to regular idle stop. I took it off used an exacto and trimmed a mm or so off the side that was rubbing, I also adjusted the stop point on the servos with a quick reprogramming. I love having digital servos. So tryted again, problem solved ran the first tank as planned and when it got to smoky i opened up the doors and finished off the tank. Second tank I took out in the front driveway with aluminum foil wrapped around the head to keep the temps up. They hovered around 200 so I was good. Second tank got a little more runs in on her up and down the street now. Still about 2 inches of loose powder off the side of road the truck did awesome in it. I tryed to avoid the deeper snow and the truck approved, never dying out and running awesome. Theres things to be said about $6.00 glow plugs and good fuel. I used after run oil in the carb and motor after ever run returning the crank to BDC during cool down periods. Well tank three and four went just as well and the truck sarted to come to life. Tank five I got a little more darring and jumped a couple of snow banks at lower speeds and had a blast. This thing is bashing in the snow like a $500 truck, well now to think about it after all the accesories and work I did the first week of having it paid off and is a $500 truck after all. New servos, battery, glow plugs, fuel, shock oil, and spare pull starter (hpi) not to mention the time it took to locktite everything and adjust the carb and throttle linkage.
RTR my *****!! lol

I plan to give Tower Services a call in the morning and report the stripped out wheel hub problem and report the servos as dead and not working, even though I never even tryed them. I also ordered new ofna wheel hubs, rims, and tire foam. I plan to use the Terror tires for now. Thanks for the recipe Digout! Like page 12 of this thread.

So far guys this thing has been to much fun, I am an RC Pilot by trade, lol but have owned a couple of on road nitro cars in the past. This is my first MT and I'm allready looking at buying the new Savage XL and pasing this on to my son or using as a spare truck on weekends.

Once again thanks to www.rcuniverse.com for providing the right time tested info on a budget product. This place and this thread has changed the whole expierence and maximized my enjoyement level.

I'll post some pics I took durring the initial mods and tune ups.

twomanytoys

You dont have to use after run oil after every run. Only if it sits for extended periods like a week or so.

BigGrump

Let us know how these wheels and inserts work out. Looks like it will make the truck a little wider. Just what is needed.

Looks like you did a good job. I have two of these, and after all adjustments are made, like you did, and locktite put on all grub screws, they are really a lot of fun.

Dennis

daubut

Well to me using the after run oil after each break in run gives you a little more lubrication on initial start up and run in. I have been building and flying planes for 4 years now and have owned quite a few very expensive nitro engines, 2 stroke and 4 stroke alike. break in is the most important part of a new engines life span and dependability. I learned that the hard way. So if break in cost me a few drops of after run oil so be it! It's part of my recipe to success when dealing with all things nitro, had great results since I started using this recipe, so I think I'll stick to it. Like returning the crank to BDC durring cool downs to allow the motor to retract at the head increasing seal and reliability, I know to some these things seem like over kill but like I said it's been working great for me.

Pictures as promised, I took them with my phone so sorry on the quality. The one pic in the groups you can barely see the small piece of plastic sticking off the throttle control ball clevis, I trimmed that off and shaved the back to avoid collision and premature stopping of the carb slide.

daubut

Well guys finally got the truck out yesterday to do some high speed runs and man will this thing move. Engine has come to life now on tank 7. Well slammed on the breaks to avoid hitting frozen bank off side of road and truck endoed! Stayed running but the rear wheel busted off, breaking the rear hub. It's been super cold here like 15-30 degrees and the plastic is just so brittle at that temps. Well took it back into the garage and dissasembled the broken pieces. Used some 30 min epoxy and got it glued back together let it sit overnight and the truck is back together and ready for more. Just in case and to replace the broken hub I ordered 2 new rears, 2 new fronts, and one rear and one front dog bone. Would rather have the parts here on hand rather than wait up to 10 days for them to get here to Alaska.

Hers some pics of the repairs and the truck ready to run again!

madmax93

I need a wheel nut but I can't find one on Tower's site. Will Hobby Services help me out?

BudBud

[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNFL7&P=M]Linky! Hub and nut![/link]

madmax93

Thanks BudBud! I'm probably going to order a few for spares.

BudBud

I keep a few spares, the Nut eats the aluminum hub. Might be lightweight, but they sure lack strength. Glen