trx2.5rcnitro

i just bought a used warhead from my LHS. it seems like a really awesome truck, but i have rip up three spur gears and only got about 20 minutes of run time. is this a common problem with these trucks or is there a bigger issue?? thanx for any help

ahotrodder

There are 255 pages of comments & fixes for the Warthead in the thread titled "Anyone own a Warhead?". I think you will find all the info you will need, just try to ignore the Warhead whiners and you will find a lot of info to help you with your Warthead.

DuraTrax makes a new metal spur gear for the Warthead, you can find it at Tower Hobbies.

riffrafff

Check the gear mesh, and make sure the slipper clutch is tight enough (but not too tight! [8D] ). If the mesh is off, even going with a metal spur gear will not help much.

FWIW, I'm still on my original plastic spur gear. [>:]

trx2.5rcnitro

thanx for the ideas. i sent an email to duratrax, and there are sending me new clutch shoes, springs, and a spur gear. they said to check the mesh too. i was really impressed with the service. my brother has been looking at the warhead and the mgt. he said with that kind of service he is leaning toward duratrax

fayora

Just an update for folks like me, researching about the same issue: my spur gear ripped after 10 tanks or so, for no apparent reason. It was the original, gray composite spur gear. Anyways, I called technical support and they are sending me a METAL replacement (!!) It took me 5 mins on the phone, and the replacement should arrive within a few days.

My advice: check your spur gear after a few runs. As with any new mechanical device, things will shift a bit after initial use. One way of the other, it will probably strip eventually, because the clutch bell is metalic and that is what happens when you try to match metal with plastic... metal always wins. A bad design, if you ask me, but the company is willing to take responsibility over it and take care of the issue without any cost for you. So, have fun, check your gear mesh, and don't worry about the gear ripping until it finally happens... then call technical support and they will take care of you.

Here is some good info about adjusting a gear mesh: [link]http://www.traxxas.com/support/index.php?action=artikel&cat=34&id=158&highlight=paper%20test[/link]

Also, pay no attention to folks complaining about this or similar issues! IT IS PART OF THE HOBBY!! If you do not like fixing things, replacing parts, troubleshooting mechanical issues, etc., you should find a different hobby or you will go NUTS.

I am actually looking forward to do the spur gear replacement and mesh adjustment...

davido666

Make sure you install the hardened clutch or you will rip up the clutch bell with the new metal spur gear. Go to duratrax.com and look up the upgrades page and order the hardened bell

fayora

Thanks davido666, it makes sense. I had seen the hardened bell because I was contemplating the upgrade to the metal spur gear (the cool aluminum + steel one), and the bell is listed as a required part.

The strange thing is that tech support did not mention it or offered to send also that part. I wonder if they are sending it with the metal spur gear?

I will give them a call tomorrow and find out. It makes no sense for them to send me something that will break something else!!!

fayora

Quick update: I called technical support and was told that they send both (metal spur gear + hardened clutch bell). We'll have to see when the package arrives. I will post an update then.

davido666

You will like the metal spur gear and heavy duty bell. I put them on and they still look like new after 8 tanks of fuel. One thing make sure you use loctite on the six screws that hold the gear to the center piece of the spur gear. I didn't notice when I bought the gear and when I started the motor all six screws fell out and I had to get new screws and use loctite. They haven't moved since this is a must.

hemiblas

Guys, everyone runs a metal pinion with a plastic spur. Its not a bad design. the original plastic spurs that came out on the duratrax were bad. They updated the plastic at a certain point to make them stronger. if you had the newer spur you would have been ok. The metal spur is the way to go, but metal on metal eat each other up. So instead of spurs you end up replacing both. Hopefully this stuff is hardened and it will last a while. Keep in mind metal on metal also produces noise which translated into radio interference, another reason why people dont run metal on metal. Hopefully it works out good luck.

fayora

I bought this thing two weeks ago, directly from Tower; if it did not come with the newer spur gear, then I don't know what it had!!! Also, why would they send a metal replacement if they could send a plastic one? [sm=50_50.gif] I had not finished explaining the issue when the tech support guy told me that he will send me a metal replacement for the stock spur gear... I guess I am going to have to trust Duratrax on this one.

On the side of possible radio interference... you are absolutely right, I had not thought about it! That probably explains the plastic + metal design. It is certainly something that I have to keep an eye on then. I prefer stripping gears over loosing control of the little sucker. Many thanks hemiblas for bringing it up!!

Well, we'll have to see what happens after the metal spur gear replacement. I was about to order some after run oil and other stuff from Tower, so I might as well order a couple of plastic spur gears to keep at hand, since they are pretty cheap. --> Unless someone knows where I can get a better alternative? (i.e. harder plastic)

davido666

I have never had an interference problem with the metal spur gear. Go with metal spur with the hardened clutch bell you will not be disapointed. If you are worried about losing control make sure you install a fail safe. They are cheap and can save you a lot of money in the long run.

hemiblas

I think the older spur gears are grey and the newer ones are black. For sure check radio range though because even with the plastic gear I had the truck lose signal for a split second and almost hit a wall. The fail safe is a good idea. I also like the 5 cell nimh battery packs. You get more voltage to the receiver and the steering servo works better. I cant believe they put AM radios in 40+ mph 20 pound trucks. All it takes is some guy with his radio shack 75 mghtz 10 dollar truck to screw up your radio signal. For me manholes and light poles are my enemy. They mess with your radio range, so be careful if running it in front of your house.
If you are getting a new metal gear for free, cant beat that. Keep in mind most of the guys complaining about radio interferance run electric speed controls and not nitro. Makes a big difference, so you should be ok, but just something to watch out for. Oh ya, except for it eating spur gears they are great trucks.

fayora

Thanks guys, I really appreciate all your help. It makes getting into this hobby much easier and a lot more fun. I will certainly check radio range with the metal spur gear, that is one of the first things I did when I first ran the truck because I had read some horror stories.
Fortunately, I live out in country side, so interference is very small. I fly RC planes and have never had any issues... but they are mostly plastic and foam, so it is a different story.
I am definitely going to get the fail safe! I read about them when looking into which truck to buy, and was not sure if the truck had it. Now that I know it doesn't, I will certainly get one. I am surprised that they do not come as stock with this big trucks... I was kind'a expecting it.

BTW: I have one question. After the first 10 tanks the engine idle is a bit too high, which way (clockwise or counter-clockwise) should I turn the idle screw to lower it? It is quite difficult to turn because of where it is, and I tried both directions, in very small increments, but did not notice a change. The manual does not specify (unlike all other adjustments), so I thought I'd better ask.

fayora

OK, I finally have time to write an update: I got the replacement spur gear, and it was the blue aluminum + steel gear one. Nice. But... they did not send the reinforced clutch bell with it! I called and was told that I should've requested it (!?) Anyways, they sent me one right away. Hint: ask for small parts to be sent to you via USPS and not UPS ground service! The spur gear was sent with UPS and took 7+ business days to arrive. Pathetic!... the clutch bell was sent USPS (after I begged the gal on the phone), and it took only 2 days! (from TX to WA)

I had everything ready for the spur gear and clutch replacement, and was able to test the new setup almost immediately. It worked great at first. No radio interference, no noticeable increase in noise (these things are pretty noisy already!), no problems whatsoever... till 10 minutes into the first run, when I noticed a strange noise after stopping the truck. The screws that hold the steel gear and the aluminum center section together had become loose!!!! Apparently they do not use loctite at the factory (!?!?!?) I guess I SHOULD'VE KOWN?! They do not tell you anywhere. A rookie's mistake, I guess. Anyways, I was able to stop the truck before any damage, and to salvage at least one of the screws. Hint #2: if you get one of the new aluminum + steel spur gears and the screws are already installed, remove them, apply loctite, and reinstall them! :-)

I thought I could find replacement screws in one of the many LHSs, but none of them carry the required type (2.5x6mm sinkhead), and I ended up loosing more than a week between trips to the different LHSs because I thought I would save time buying them locally. Bad mistake. Finally I gave up and ordered them from Tower, and they were here in 2 days (USPS again!).

Of course, by the time the replacement screws arrived, I had already installed one of the original molded plastic spur gears (ordered previously), and the old clutch bell, in a purely adventurous attempt to learn proper gear meshing. I thought I would go through a few of those plastic gears till I learn to do it correctly. At $3.5 a pop, there isn't much to loose.

So, I am currently using the molded plastic spur gear and the original clutch bell and things are going pretty well. The truck is running faster and stronger with every tank, and the meshing, which I check often, seems to be the correct one. I also figured out how to control the engine idle: using the remote control's throttle trim (DOH!) I did some adjustments to the idle screw, but it is definitely much easier to do it with the throttle trim. Hint #3: a good way to check the idle adjustment is to remove the carburator's filter + filter hose and look at the barrel opening. Manual says about 1mm open, and it seems about right from my experience. This is also a good way to determine which way you should turn the idle screw when adjusting the idle.

Anyways, I hope that this info helps other rookies like me... :-)

fayora

YIKES!! Just after my last posting I read back into previous postings and saw davido666's posting regarding the spur gear screws!! HA HA HA!!! I forgot about his warning... and the exact same thing happened to me! DARN! I should pay more attention... [sm=tongue_smile.gif] The problem is that I was expecting the screws not to be installed (as shown on [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMKC4&P=ML]Tower's website[/link]), and I remember thinking "There is no way I am forgetting to install those with loctite!" Well, I completely forgot. Makes for a good lesson: always ensure that YOU apply loctite, don't expect it to be applied by someone else!