RC Monster Trucks Discuss rc monster trucks in this forum

MRC THUNDER KING picture/info gallery

Reply

Old 01-31-2008, 02:42 AM
  #26  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

FACTORY REAR DISK BRAKE MODS...

The stock brake system works EXCELLENT as long as guys do the cheap and easy "throttle linkage mod" and for guys that want to try something diffrent you can double up with factory brake pads/disk or most 1/8scale brake disks like those from ofna kits othe others will work too.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Db85401.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	60.2 KB
ID:	865894   Click image for larger version

Name:	Nl31024.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	64.3 KB
ID:	865895  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 02:46 AM
  #27  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

FACTORY REAR WHEEL INSIDE OUT MOD...

To get a more 1/2+ offset/outset on the kits the factory front wheels can just be flipped around. The rears should have the outer center washer lip cut down for best fit.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Zw69325.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	41.2 KB
ID:	865896   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ez82137.jpg
Views:	99
Size:	41.6 KB
ID:	865897   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ot47143.jpg
Views:	107
Size:	42.1 KB
ID:	865898   Click image for larger version

Name:	Lf94985.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	50.0 KB
ID:	865899  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 02:48 AM
  #28  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

FACTORY FRONT WHEEL TO REAR MOUNT MOD...

For guys that have extra front wheels but need rears, take a 12mm headed bolt...(maybe even a smaller 11mm bolt might work and possibly be a tighter fit on the factory 12mm hex)..., heat it up with a small torch and quickly press it into the inside of the front wheel and quickily remove it, use a correct size aluminum tube as a spacer/insulator for the hot bolt as a guide.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Tq48545.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	28.4 KB
ID:	865900  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 02:51 AM
  #29  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

FACTORY CHASSIS/PARTS DRESSUP MOD...

Use easyoff to strip the chassis, sos pads and some rubbing/polishing compound to clean it up, use gloves. The shock towers can be painted with most paints, all white nylon parts can be dyed with cheap one dollar clothing dyes to any color.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Qo39648.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	53.8 KB
ID:	865901   Click image for larger version

Name:	Pl32171.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	43.4 KB
ID:	865902   Click image for larger version

Name:	Hm22924.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	52.9 KB
ID:	865903  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 02:58 AM
  #30  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

8 FACTORY SHOCK MOD OPTIONS...

Just some ideas I was playing around with...
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Sq45706.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	56.1 KB
ID:	865906   Click image for larger version

Name:	Oj27096.jpg
Views:	113
Size:	59.1 KB
ID:	865907   Click image for larger version

Name:	Yd81839.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	53.3 KB
ID:	865908   Click image for larger version

Name:	Pi16455.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	52.8 KB
ID:	865909   Click image for larger version

Name:	Wh57368.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	57.7 KB
ID:	865910   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ar10908.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	58.3 KB
ID:	865911  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 03:01 AM
  #31  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

PARTS NEEDED TO CONVERT ETK TO NTK + FACTORY ETK UPGRADES...

Converting an ETK to NTK is easy, the most important thing you need is the Nitro TK delrin tranny gear set, next the factory Nitro TK spur gear or most other 65 tooth 24 pitch 8scale spur gears with work also , the Nitro TK brake gear assembly and finaly the motor/servo mounts, which other 8scale mounts will work also. After that most 8scale fuel tank, engine and pipe combos can be used.

Upgrading your ETK with 4 better parts from the NTK would be to use... the Nitro TK high impact nylon body mounts, (much more flexible than the ETK plastic mounts), again the Nitro TK delrin tranny gear set (which is much stronger than the ETK regular plastic gears), the Nitro TK tranny case, (which is made of a much stronger nylon plastic than the ETK has) and finaly the Nitro TK axle upgrade kit, (which has bigger/thicker axles, hubs, hexes than the ETK).
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Mk25978.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	48.8 KB
ID:	865912   Click image for larger version

Name:	Wr54988.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	45.8 KB
ID:	865913   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ec89455.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	120.9 KB
ID:	865914  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 03:07 AM
  #32  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

FACTORY ETK/NTK BALL DIFF MODS...

An excellent cheap and quick option that can be done on all the stock TK/BK ball diffs because they are so big is that they can be "PEGGED" using perferably the AE slipper clutch pegs or even the cheap Traxxas slipper clutch pegs by removing the balls and replacing them with the pegs, this will convert the diff to more of a posi/spool type diff, and still have some "give" and "shock absorbsion" making it easyer on drive line parts making it BETTER! than ANY fully locked spool you can buy for any kit because it breaks less parts than fully locked spools. This mod works excellent if your just using your kit for bashing and fun. It also helps lower the diff maintainance for guys that don't like to do it because all ball diffs are high maintainance.

I have noticed something interesting with the NTK diffs when they start to wear in, the balls cut a wear grove into the side plates which seems to make the diff work better. the reason for this is that there is more contact area made by the groves so the diff balls gain more bite. I have thought that an interesting test I wanted to try would be to use a large nail/punch and punch 12 dimples into the side plates, one for each ball on both sides so the balls would have a bit of a hole to sit in and then experiment with the diff spring pressures to get the right "ratchet" effect.

In the pics below you will see that the center of the factory diff gear in the NTK can be over heated by running the ball diff to loose which will melt out the center over time. Also some guys have had problems with ther diffs coming loose, this happens on some diffs when the spring is tightend all the way and some springs cause the bolt and assembly to bend and make contact with the inside of the diff housing which will/can make the bolt/diff come loose. I have also noticed that some of the washers on top of the spring bolt are way to large also and also help make contact with the inside of the housing.






Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Vt58483.jpg
Views:	116
Size:	50.1 KB
ID:	865915   Click image for larger version

Name:	Yt60840.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	39.4 KB
ID:	865916   Click image for larger version

Name:	Wb76664.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	37.5 KB
ID:	865917   Click image for larger version

Name:	Sm29760.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	27.7 KB
ID:	865918   Click image for larger version

Name:	Vt57347.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	57.6 KB
ID:	865919  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 03:13 AM
  #33  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

SAV/MAXX/MGT 14mm WHEELS TO FIT ETK/NTK...

To mod most 14mm wheels for the front I found some cheap 5/8 home water line plastic pipe at home depot that the inside diamiter is a perfect fit for the factory 6x12 front bearings. I drill out the wheels slowly using a 1/2 then 9/16 and finaly a 5/8 drill bit, I use a drill press to do this but it could be done with a hand drill also. I make a correct size bearing spacer from the same pipe and use 2 small set screws to hold the whole assembly in the wheel by drilling 2 small holes through the center of the wheels on each side and inserting the set screws. The fit is so tight that c/a glue might even hold the pipe in the wheel.

For the rear, just buy a set of aluminum 14mm x 6mm (mgt/max) hexes and preferably use a modded/sharp correct size allen key and punch the key through the hex with hammer or press through with using bench vise, a screw driver bit could even be used, a sharp edge on the bit/tool will cut a real nice correct shape for the factory axle.






Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Ay75765.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	36.1 KB
ID:	865921   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ez82340.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	33.7 KB
ID:	865922   Click image for larger version

Name:	Bg93946.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	33.9 KB
ID:	865923   Click image for larger version

Name:	Xr47042.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	31.4 KB
ID:	865924   Click image for larger version

Name:	Lw19183.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	35.5 KB
ID:	865925   Click image for larger version

Name:	Qh66829.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	28.6 KB
ID:	865926   Click image for larger version

Name:	Wy50644.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	33.2 KB
ID:	865927   Click image for larger version

Name:	Tr50603.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	69.4 KB
ID:	865928  

The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 03:30 AM
  #34  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

UNFINISHED... FRONT BRAKE MOD...
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Us52625.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	52.1 KB
ID:	865929   Click image for larger version

Name:	Pk31343.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	51.5 KB
ID:	865930   Click image for larger version

Name:	Qv55908.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	46.1 KB
ID:	865931   Click image for larger version

Name:	Au56773.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	43.7 KB
ID:	865932   Click image for larger version

Name:	Oz31551.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	52.2 KB
ID:	865933  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 10:05 AM
  #35  
bullittben
Junior Member
 
bullittben's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Georgetown, SC
Posts: 6
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

OK, one big thing I would like to do is the T-Maxx Wheel Mod.....

What are you using for the material to make the bearing holder? It looks like some kind of pipe. I guess if you are having to make it the correct diameter, it doesn't matter what it is. Then you are just gluing it into a drilled out wheel? How do you make sure it's true?

Also, what exactly did you do to the clutch? Mine sheared the pins, so I drilled out the holes and used larger, cut down nails as pins. What type of shoes are you using? Have you found one off the shelf to work?
bullittben is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 08:09 PM
  #36  
rcbeep73
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: tuckerton, NJ
Posts: 462
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

Thanks for all the tips, your a real help. i have about 10 world scale trucks and cars. from nitro thunder kings to desert thunder and electric thunder kings. plus i have found and bought alot of parts on ebay for them. is the diff a direct fit or does it need to be tweeked to fit. also i had forgotten this so maybe you know is the spur gear metric or std pitch. i can't remember. i see you used ofna to replace the spur and i have tons of ofna parts. check out my gallery pictures and you can see some of my mrc kits along with my other stuff. thanks, Randy
rcbeep73 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 02:09 AM
  #37  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

If I am thinking right the ntk spur is standard 1/8scale 24 pitch/metric, same as the ofna. My guess would be other spurs could even work from the XTM kits and others too. I made bearing spacers for the torson race diff to fit in the ntk case but if I remember right, boca had the right size bearings when I checked. It's not a hard mod to me but it does need a few mods obously since it's for a Kyosho. If I ever get back in the mood I will take the torson back out of the truck and take more pics. I think just about any reg diff might work as long as the housing case is 24mm? or smaller. I put some info in the posts so hopefully that will help with your questions. I think I got a few more things saved somewere that I will post later.

To me one of the most important mods is/was when I started to setup a front brake system, having front brakes would be a super big deal when going up against the better1/8scale buggys on the track, I could run on par on the straights with them if not overtake them, the problem I was having is they could overtake me in the corners because I had to slow down more before hand because most times I was carrying more top end speed than most 8scale bugs. So anyway this is the mod that most interests me if I start messing around with this stuff again.

With the exception of a few odd parts, the guys here have not really tryed or had the need to change out a whole lot of the stock components on these kits because we don't really have any real big failers of the stock parts/components, more of a bigger issue is better setup then the way they came out of the box. I have always just ordered the factory stuff direct from mrc in the past in bulk (because I am/was a dealer for MRC) for me and the local guys here so most of us got lots of parts, but it is very neat to see guys trying diffrent things on there kits like diffrent suspensions. In the past me an an X POS pretend friend were trying to buy out the tooling/rights and all parts for this kit and we were trying to make a deal with MRC but I kind of droped out of it all and got busy with a divorce lol which I am finaly finishing up so I am not much into or around the r/c stuff much anymore and was not much into using fricken computers at all lol. I have to be honest and say this was a nice change for me to come back and post some stuff again. I took in the factory world super8scale promo vid to get it put on cd rom so I hope I can post the orignal promo sometime next week.

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Kh17741.jpg
Views:	113
Size:	49.1 KB
ID:	866805   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ec90009.jpg
Views:	120
Size:	75.2 KB
ID:	866806   Click image for larger version

Name:	Sq47802.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	118.4 KB
ID:	866807   Click image for larger version

Name:	Cx74438.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	117.6 KB
ID:	866808  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 04:09 AM
  #38  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

COLLECTOR/TRIVIA INFO...

Here is some more interesting trivia for TK collector fans, I got a call from the sales rep at MRC a good few years back when they were already compleatly sold out of NTK kits for quite a while, Peggy told me that they were cleaning up the warehouse and found some of the first original 4 NTK PROMO kits that they had made for them that they used to show off to/at the r/c industry shows hidden way up on the top shelfs where they were forgotten, so anyway they thought of me and called me up to give me first dibs. Tim at MRC told me there were less than 1000 Nitro modded TK kits put together so it was a no brainer for me lol...

So guess who has some of the first NTK kits ever made lol... All 4 of the originals (2 with radios sys, 2 with out) are sitting on my top shelf still in the boxes MRC sent them to me in years ago LOL. These kits are more crude looking, the tune pipes look like hell, they have diffrent linkages than the newer ones and a few other diffrent parts than the newer prodution kits. I wonder if there are any people with one of the first batch (blue head) style kits still in the box out there?

One other interesting thing I heard and I seen one pic of one is apparently MRC made a very few PROTOTYPE trucks with ALL virgin white nylon parts on them (same material as the factory TK wheels), I heard you could practicly throw them off a 10 story building or run over these things with a fullsize car/truck and you could not break/none of the parts would break. I am guessing that they would never be able to sell any parts if they marketed the kits in all nylon. I would love to get my hands on on some of these rare parts which could also be dyed any colors. Have a close look at the new at that time aftermarket 8scale Parma body for these kits, closely check out the suspension parts in the pic below and you will see this super rare white rino. Also there were a good few companys back when these kits came out that made some real nice stuff like a complete carbon fiber chassis and a few companys making real nice looking aluminum wheels and other goodies, looking back I realy wish I would of bought more of the aftermarket stuff companys made for them.

In the past I was so hardcore into these kits when they first came out as elc kits, I bet I was probably one of the first guys to convert an elc kit to nitro using a low hp K&B .21 engine with flywheel start, usa1 counter gear support, ofna mounts/tank, traxxas bell brake and som other misc pasts, I had to use a bit of wetlube in the tranny to make the elc gears last longer.

I got into being a dealer for the NTK kits because guys here that bought elc kits years back could not get parts from the hobby stores for them so we/I looked into other ways to get parts. Here in calgary I sold a lot of NTK kits and specialized in them and others, we used these kits in the USHRA monster jam event shows and these kits sold them selfs after that. MRC and the NTK even helped us build and support the Nitro Extreme r/c park which was a 2.5 acre 8scale nitro park in the middle of the city with 2 tracks, parking, toilets, food, drinks and more, it just was a great place for 8scale guys to hang out to run there NTKs, anyway I can give more info out of this later.

Here in calgary I wanted to do something special with the NTK because it was a limited/low production conversion kit. So I made up 9/nine special editon nitro extreme kits to go with the theme of the r/c park MRC help us to build. In various shippments of NTK's from MRC after the park opened I took extra time to go though every nut and bolt and resetup everything including going through the ball diff setups/gears with extra grease and adjustments. These NINE 3+3+3 NITRO EXTREME NTK kits got something extra... something hidden.



Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Ki19885.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	105.4 KB
ID:	866842   Click image for larger version

Name:	Tr51030.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	53.6 KB
ID:	866843   Click image for larger version

Name:	Lj21758.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	14.8 KB
ID:	866844   Click image for larger version

Name:	Cx75383.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	43.1 KB
ID:	866845   Click image for larger version

Name:	Wb76299.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	16.7 KB
ID:	866846   Click image for larger version

Name:	Pn37609.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	182.9 KB
ID:	866847   Click image for larger version

Name:	Fd92036.jpg
Views:	116
Size:	35.5 KB
ID:	866848   Click image for larger version

Name:	Oj27959.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	62.8 KB
ID:	866849  

The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 04:37 AM
  #39  
rcbeep73
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: tuckerton, NJ
Posts: 462
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

wow, look at all that nice new parts you have. lucky you. it's funny even to this day i still talk to my lhs about the world scales and they talk down about them. i don't understand why i think they are great. yes i have new cars and trucks but to me nothing could beat what mrc did back in the day. i still run my first desert thunder with no problems. that thing is a tank but was always afraid to break the gears with out new ones but like i said i have been buying up what i can on ebay. i have alot of back up parts nothing like you at all but enough to get my self out of trouble and keep running. my only problem is i keep 99% of my rc stuff so my garage/workshop is over flowing. i had to put all my power tools into the shed and make it my power tool room.

well i hope you get back into your rc rigs cause it's a good hobby and i like all the mods you have done/posted. so until next time take it easy. Thanks Randy
rcbeep73 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2008, 06:36 PM
  #40  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

LOL, I think the reason that you see some hobby stores or people/kids talk crap about any/all older kits/things is just a lack of knowledge about many things in life, I have had the same thing happen to me but the one thing that these retards don't think about before they open there yaps about saying it's old out of date junk because they don't make them anymore... is... then I guess so is every thing else like... 69-70 cameros, or hey they don't make the old classic mustangs anymore so they must be junk too lol, or a waist of time lol... oh and the Harley davidson engine is one of the best examples, old out of date design/junk old push rod engine or not, they are more popular than ever lol. Anyway, some people/kids just can't and won't get it ("can't see the forest because of all the trees") so there is not much we can do about it.

I am sure I got a good few parts (I still got lots of goodies) I can sell off sooner or later once I hopefully get back into the hobby, it's a great family hobby but being single again it just does not have the same appeal to me right now so I am going to rebuild some my fullsize "out off date" mustangs this summer lol... beside I can't pick up women or go on a date with my r/c trucks, not even with my new current up to date high tech t maxx lol.

Back on topic, one of the last things I was playing with these kits was casting my own parts like gears, a arms and such. The shop I contract for casts many differnt things/parts and even has a cnc router table to make lots of cool things. I will try to get in the mood to finaly try and cast up a few NTK gears to see how they turn out this summer. Here are some pics of other gears we have cast up recently using rubber and silicon molds. There are so many diffrent kinds of good cold molding plastics and urethanes out now I am sure there are some that are good for making gears now. The silicon molds are also good for hot casting of some metals and nylons too, we have machined out some molds out of aluminum too for high production parts also ... I think some of you will get a real kick out of some of these pics...
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Sp45139.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	121.1 KB
ID:	868309   Click image for larger version

Name:	To45087.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	131.0 KB
ID:	868310   Click image for larger version

Name:	Af90871.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	136.1 KB
ID:	868311   Click image for larger version

Name:	Uo35950.jpg
Views:	99
Size:	123.7 KB
ID:	868312   Click image for larger version

Name:	Eq87138.jpg
Views:	102
Size:	137.8 KB
ID:	868313   Click image for larger version

Name:	Bs12486.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	145.5 KB
ID:	868314   Click image for larger version

Name:	Df73652.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	122.8 KB
ID:	868315   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ji29538.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	125.2 KB
ID:	868316  

The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2008, 07:45 PM
  #41  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

A while back I even played around with trying to make/copy my own body body bucks and parts so I could vacuform my own parts. I even went as far as buying my own little hobby mill/drill/lath combo machine to make some junk at home but now it's collecting dust like everything else lol. Here are also some pics of a aluminum mold which was used for cold poured urethane parts, also some gear sprockets we tryed cutting out on the router table for another project.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Zx72520.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	38.5 KB
ID:	868379   Click image for larger version

Name:	Pk30271.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	39.2 KB
ID:	868380   Click image for larger version

Name:	Lq36532.jpg
Views:	102
Size:	27.9 KB
ID:	868381   Click image for larger version

Name:	Fz73194.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	52.6 KB
ID:	868382   Click image for larger version

Name:	Rc39990.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	119.2 KB
ID:	868383  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2008, 07:54 PM
  #42  
rcbeep73
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: tuckerton, NJ
Posts: 462
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

Nice job on the molds and parts. It’s amazing what one can do with casting. I am still waiting for those aluminum gears but I will need to get enough sets for all of my cars/trucks. I like to have spares. Am sure you can under stand that.

Sorry to hear about your current situations. One day you will get back into the things you love it will just take time. One thing I do know the hobby will always be here and is always a way to escape the real world.
rcbeep73 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2008, 06:24 AM
  #43  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

I found a few more pics of some older mods/tests. At one time we played around with moving things around on the chassis and tryed a few diffrent ideas with the radio trays which did kind of work out nicely. We also tryed out locking up the stock ball diffs by just bolting through them... after that most guys were busting and twisting the factory dog bones like they were going out of style. I even tryed the thick EK-4 bones and some Ofna dog bones and twisted the crap out of them too ( those EK-4 bones twisted like a candy canes lol)... thats when we just started pegging the diffs instead after that test and even the stock dog bones held up fine after that. The stock dog bone ends are just a bit smaller than most of todays 8scale bones, all we did was use a 5/16 bur on a high speed hand air grinder drilled into the cups to open them up just a bit, it worked great.

BTW, I remembered to take some tranny gears with me to the shop and made a few quick single rubber test molds, if they work out I should be able to pour some test gears monday night and will post some pics then.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Ig11147.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	120.8 KB
ID:	868774   Click image for larger version

Name:	Rm38311.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	119.0 KB
ID:	868775   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ot47159.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	114.5 KB
ID:	868776   Click image for larger version

Name:	Hb81411.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	116.9 KB
ID:	868777  
Attached Images  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2008, 03:21 AM
  #44  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

Here is a teaser pic of the ETK/NTK test ball diff gear rubber mold and gear I used, the mold release I used did not work well on this plastic so I am going to try another one but it looks like nice small detailed gears can be made with this stuff. Just got to put some more thought in the setup.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Qo40647.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	57.8 KB
ID:	869644  
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2008, 05:11 AM
  #45  
rcbeep73
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: tuckerton, NJ
Posts: 462
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

Boss, what do you do for a living, you have a lot of talent for making molds and aluminum parts. That is something I would love to get into/try but just don’t have the time. My wife hates I am in the garage as much as I am. But she understands so that’s a good thing.
rcbeep73 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2008, 03:00 PM
  #46  
rcbeep73
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: tuckerton, NJ
Posts: 462
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

I am taking one of my ntk apart and took some pictures. If you could look at the clutch bell it looks like its breaking apart where spines are inside the bell I had never seen that before and the clutch has seen better days. Also can you tell me if the engine is the org one. It has the blue head and still has some compression also the pipe looks real strange to me I think I will change the engine and pipe. I also will change the brakes to make them work better. She needs some TLC and I am looking forward to spending some time doing it.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Fd91482.jpg
Views:	98
Size:	51.5 KB
ID:	869910   Click image for larger version

Name:	Yt62824.jpg
Views:	97
Size:	31.2 KB
ID:	869911   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ej14461.jpg
Views:	95
Size:	59.9 KB
ID:	869912   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ys49240.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	67.8 KB
ID:	869913  
rcbeep73 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2008, 03:27 PM
  #47  
rcbeep73
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: tuckerton, NJ
Posts: 462
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

wow i guess i need a new diff. who ever had this before me used some kind of rubber mold to fill in the gap where the balls where. i was wondering why the diff was locked. now i know.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Sq46019.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	74.7 KB
ID:	869920  
rcbeep73 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2008, 01:45 AM
  #48  
The Boss
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
The Boss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, AB, CND
Posts: 747
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

The clutch bells on all these kits are a two piece design, the gear teeth are pressed into the bell (this is why we do the bell trick), the clutch bells themselfs are alot bigger than most standard 8scale bells and most all standard 8scale clutch bells will fit inside a NTK one, the NTK bell offers more bite to the bigger teflon shoes but I believe even the standard 8scale 2 shoe teflon ones will work too with maybe a bit of a inside trim. With the two piece bell, gears/ratios can be changed, I have put on some 14 tooth gears on from the factory 17 tooth. Your shoes look worn some but look good/fine to use, a deeped spring grove can be filed/cut and the spring shortend a bit (1/8+) if needed no problem. The blue headed kits were the first batch/versions, the purple head kits were all later versions. the stock sport tune pipes have a long header going up inside the can, all the way up and stop at basicly the stinger, by shortening the can you can change the way/speed the exhaust waves come out the header hitting the end of the can. The first batch of pipes were all welded so they are hard to mod, the newer/later pipes use machined ends/parts and are easyer to mod. The factory rear brakes work excellent if they are setup with the modded throttle linkage (the factory setup is JUNK), if you want to try diffrent brake disks I will suggest the OFNA 8scale ones.

Some times guys have made the mistake of putting the plastic version electric ETK gears into the nitro NTK trannys which uses DELRIN molded gears, they both look the same black colored gears but are not, if you drop each gear seperatly on the concrete floor you will hear a diffrent sound/pitch as they hit the ground... delrin VS plastic.

I do contract work in the film/entertainment/sports industry I work on/building things for Disney, movies, film sets, props, I am a bodyman by trade, like doing some mech and specialize in heavy collision and use to build custom cars/bikes on the side.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kazzoom

Well I guess I'm kind of semi retarded... oops... retired now. Besides my own little one man band/show operation I contracted for a few diffrent shops in the past but now at my stupid old fart age of 43 I now mostly do projects for...
http://www.fdscenechanges.com/index.html

In my personal life I have usualy always learned things the hard way so... let me give all you young bucks that read this one more great big tip in the game/hobby of life... DON"T HOOKUP WITH A STRIPPER... oh YES... stripper BAD... R/C good... very good.

Now BEER is my new love/hobby... 6 pack a night lol.
The Boss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2008, 06:04 AM
  #49  
rcbeep73
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: tuckerton, NJ
Posts: 462
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

i am lucky to have an extra diff gear but now i am not sure if it's the right one. as for the exhaust i am not going to use it i will just clean up the engine and pipe and store it. i will make a little display and put it on the wall. i know it might sound crazy but that's me. i do have two new clutch shoes in mrc's bags so am good there. but i did not know the bell could be changed that way. i know i need to install another bearing in the bell it was loose on the engine shaft.

a six pack a night is good it keeps the hair on your chest. you only have 9 years on me but i am catching up. every day it feels i am a year older. as for me i work as a tech for penske truck leasing. god i think i have been ther for 15 years. wow time does fly. that's what's good about getting a good job at an early age. you put your time in and then you can retire.

I myself wish I could machine metal but never had the time to get into it. I will in the future but I am lucky to work with a guy who is a machinist . But at Penske we don’t do that kind of work. I was going to get a lathe at harbor fright but there stuff is cheap and don’t want to spend good money on not so good stuff.

again i want to thank you for all the info and help. Randy
rcbeep73 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2008, 01:03 PM
  #50  
rcbeep73
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: tuckerton, NJ
Posts: 462
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: MRC THUNDER KING picture gallery

Boss, i have a quick question,. looking at my manual the differential gear number 16 and the idler gear is also number 16. so i guess it's safe to say they are the same gear? i did not check but have you ever used the start gear number 62 as a differential or idler gear? i am just rebuilding my gearbox so i thought i would ask. Thanks, Randy
rcbeep73 is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service