ORIGINAL: Wingwrecker

I am starting to hate the stock engine.. A buddy and myself each bought Rt-x27's and are consistently having start up and tuning probs with the Super Pooper. When it's running great it's running way too hot and quits. Then starting again is very problematic. I've had one other nitro engine for my plane(s) and it was a beautiful thing. It was an O.S. 55AX and there were absolutely no issues with it even at my high elevation. I think I'll be ordering the O.S. .30 for my (Warhead) RTX. Though I'm still looking at Axial .28. Is the cost hike on the OS worth it or does the Axial run well without too much hassle?

ORIGINAL: Wingwrecker

I've never dealt with installing an engine into a transmission before so I'm realy looking for an easy drop-in repleacement. I'm pretty happy with the power and speed of the 'Pooper' when it's running strong so I don't really need more speed and/or power (but it's always good!) I'm kinda budget minded for this hobby as well as I'm still learning (spending) on helis, plus I've 4 planes that need built/repaired.

I found the Axial .28 Spec 1s for $109 so if it will go in relatively easy, brean in/run predictably, and give me just a little more power then I'd be happy with it for now.

Based on the general consensus, it looks as though I can assume an all around 'thumbs-up' for the Axial .28? And if I do get it, will [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHMG0&P=V]THIS KIT[/link] fit the bill for installation? It's reccomended with the OS .30 but will it work for the Axial too? Or do I need it at all?

Thanks for the informative responses.. Gotta love an active thread!

ORIGINAL: Wingwrecker

If the stockers are OK then I'll stick with em for now. Not looking to make this the ultimate racing machine, just a good, reliable basher. But I don't know what I'm looking for when I'm told to check the shoes before installing the new motor.

ORIGINAL: Stereodude

Nevermind guys... I have decided to get an RMA for RT-X 27 to send it back to Duratrax instead.

ORIGINAL: Stereodude

Anyone in the Detroit Metro area want to come help me with my RT-X 27?

I am 100% convinced something is defective with mine. I added a 3rd shim under the head and it ran even hotter. [:@] I think I saw as hot as 350F before immediately turning it off. So, I richened it up a bunch until it was running closer to the right temps. The manual says rich should be 4.5 turns from closed. I'm around 5.5 turns from closed, it runs like a dog and still is pushing 270-280F.

I'm about ready to throw this thing out! [] HELP!!!

ORIGINAL: ThermalRD

What fuel were you running? Do you have prior nitro experience? If you have the same issues with the new truck, then PM me. Im in Livonia.

ORIGINAL: Stereodude

I was running Tower Hobbies Tower Power 20% car/boat mix. I have no prior nitro experience, which is partly why this is so frustrating to me. I've tried to be very meticulous and careful.

It also looks like the engine is just soaked on the outside by lubricant from the fuel. It's even dripping from the bottom of the engine, so something definitely isn't right.

ORIGINAL: ThermalRD

Well, i've never ran that fuel, but i can tell you fuel brand/quality can play a HUGE role in how easily an engine tunes, and how well it runs. I'd guess that fuel, and this stock motor were a bad combination. From what i've seen, this motor takes its time breaking in. If the bearings in the motor, are anything like the bearings used throughout the rest of the truck, then the bearings alone are VERY tight. So that alone is part of the break-in/low performance of the stock motor. Have you already sent that truck back to Duratrax? If not, i can try to help ya tune that truck sometime this week. I haven't read thru these pages lately, so i dont know what these guys have gone over with ya, on that engine. But here are some things to check for, that would cause the problems you are having. Which are all basically leading to an airleak.

-loose cooling head (check the screws, make sure they are snug. Also make sure those gaskets underneath the head, are not crimped, folded, or damaged in any way, and they gotta be clean.)
-loose glo plug. (this one is real easy to see. If you suspect a flaw in the machining at that area, just start the engine, and look down in that area. If its leaking, you'll see bubbles, and fuel coming from around the glo plug area.)
-loose back plate. (not the roto plate. Thea actual plate that is screwed into the engine case, that you attach the roto unit to.)
-loose carb. (if you can turn that carb angle by hand, its loose and wont be seated properly)
-front main bearing. (real easy to check for. If you have tons of oil around that front main bearing, and the chassis beneath it, that bearing is leaking. Its common to see some oil there, but not a whole lot)

Now, knowing the bearings on this thing, i'd guess the front main bearing is not the cause. Those bearings are tight. Look at it anyway though. On the carb, keep in mind that there are many seals there. If you check everything else, and still have issues, you may have a leak at an o-ring in the HSN assembly, that is hard to spot. I'd also swap plugs, and try a different fuel as well. But it really sounds like an air leak.

ORIGINAL: rcbeep73

if it's all new call duratrax and they will help you. you might even get a new engine.

ORIGINAL: Stereodude

I was running Tower Hobbies Tower Power 20% car/boat mix. I have no prior nitro experience, which is partly why this is so frustrating to me. I've tried to be very meticulous and careful.

It also looks like the engine is just soaked on the outside by lubricant from the fuel. It's even dripping from the bottom of the engine, so something definitely isn't right.

ORIGINAL: Wingwrecker

Yeah, the HSN hits the gear for the trans and wont even come close to allowing the mount holes to line up. There's gotta be a way. Guess I'll email Axial.