OddsNEnds

Wow, unreal that you are running rich enough to not be able to shift to second. Yet, still having temp issues when you do lean it out. How lean is your low end needle? Can you richen it and lean out the high end needle and still get a good idle?

If you have to much slop in your slide barrel of your carb, that could be leaking too. That was what was wrong with mine. It was so loose that it would actually come out of the idle set screw track and since it was that loose it leaked bad. The only fix would be to get a new carb. Waiting on mine from Duratrax.

Also, is there any noticeable binding anywhere in your drivetrain? Outdrives, spur gear to clutch bell mesh, blown ring and pinion gears....etc, etc... The outdrives on the diff can excessively wear causing some binding issues that would not affect the running of the vehicle, but, could put enough bind to affect the workload of the motor.

Oh yeah, I never added shims to both motors. The ST came with 2 shims. I reused them when installing the Nova head as well.

xCrucialx

It is shifting it's just taking longer than it should. I can tell the power is not there but Iwas trying to keep the temps under control as Iwas racing at a track for the first time. Obviously it didn't do that much to help since it got up to 400 that day. I shut it down and let it cool completely then and fired it back up a little later.

ALFFA164

How about bearings? check for worn out bearings... those can cause a lot of binding. Your diffs??? Have you ever checked if they have some lube in them?

Brakes??? are you sure your brakes are 100% free when you hit the throtle? Did you change your tires to bigger ones???

What fuel brand?

Also check for dirt in the needles.... do you use a fuel filter?

xCrucialx

Everything seems to spin freely.  I haven't opened the diffs yet.  I haven't had the time to take it all apart.  Brakes are free except when braking.  I do have a fuel filter and the tires are stock.

BRUSSER

Hey guys; thanks a lot for all your help. I have another question, Really don't want to expend a lot of money in the super pooper, in the clutch shoes what about the dynamite alu shoes money wise they are cheaper than the offna but what about quality are they any good. So far engine is running good , i put a Nova cooling head and so far things are running smooth, but until engine blew don't want to put a lot of money on it.That's my question about the dynamine clutch shes. Thanks

ALFFA164

Ive heard in some buggy forums they last a very long time and perform really good. I think you wont regret if you get them.

The Duratrax shoes also work fine. Unbelievable but actually it is a good duratrax product (alu shoes)

readster

My Feedback: (1)

hey ALFFAthanks for hooking me up with Paul Truggy was shipped today woo hoo can't wait

Steve

My Feedback: (54)

I have a total of 4 shims under the head now. I have the nova head, fan type flywheel, 20% nitro, medium plug, and I sealed the engine with RTV. Seems to be doing ok for now. I'm going to put a differant tank in myself and see if it lowers the temps any more.

Steve

My Feedback: (54)

The first time I sealed my engnie "Super Tigre", I accidently got a little RTV into the fuel draw area. It caused my engine to run hot and unreliable. Once I cleaned it up and was more carefull the second time, it made a big differance. I also put some RTV on the exhaust gasket and it squoze out and patially plugged the outlet. I cleaned that up and used a lot less RTV.

ALFFA164

Really? Congrats. TRUST ME... best purchase ever.... those things have an incredible engineering .... 100 times better than you are probably used to.. if you know what i reffer to.

The best forums for that car are in the z-carusa web page and the buggy forum in rctech. I can gladly help you... that thing has exactly the same basis as the buggy but longer and wider.

Did you get it RTR??? If not... you will enjoy and have a wonderfull time building the car!!!

Just send me an email if you have any questions. If you need all the setup sheets and feedback about performance and handling you can contact Paul, he put togehter his and started racing it like 3 weeks ago, he is a great guy that will help you!

carmaniac627

I'm on the last straw with my warhead. It has a broken rear body mount and the part where you screw the wheel on the right rear cvd snapped off. It is fixable but i just dont have the time or patience to deal with it anymore. If anyone wants a parts or repair truck without an engine or radio i would definitely be willing to sell mine. PM me if you want it.

thanks,
carmaniac627

Skhills

no problem... i'd hate to see you going through what i went through with that crappy tank... I think its best to replace as many duratrax parts as possible.. Even though my AXIAL .28 is the best thing to happend to me in this hobby... Im glad i could save you the money for now...My truck is pretty much a one of a kind...with all the mismatched parts from higher quality manufacturers. I really like this truck... Im not a brand basher and i really love the savage, and savage flux... but they handle like **** and thats just a fact...

ambassador27

Pulled my RX off the shelf today, last time I rode it temps were at 350-400, hell the head was smokin, literally.. I went over it today and found more air leaks than a kiddie pool sittin all summer!!
 The top of my gas cap where the nipple screws into the cap was totally split (factory overtightened, i dont know how i didnt see that), 2 screws that hold the head down were loose, real loose and not lock-tited, the other 2 were fine,I had no idea the backplate has NO gaskets on either the plate or the cover and found many metal shavings in there from the roto-start (I already got new gears from duratrax free) but to my amazement the gears are good, just a bad design, too much play in the roto-start for what it may take to get the pooper started sometimes..Both needles seemed tight, i slabbed some AE green on them (I think vaseline would have worked just as good?) The backplates are sealed like a frogs butt now and sittin till tomorrow to cure, I bought a new gas tank last season off e-bay cause the stocker didn't seem to seal when closed, this one does and cant wait to try it out in the morn, Im switchin from Odonalls 20 to Duratrax Red Alert 20 cause it works wonders in my other cars...
I'll keep ya posted...

Steve

My Feedback: (54)

I think you will see a big differance. I also put a black line on my tank so I know when the fuel is down in the reduced area of the tank. I refill at that point because the motor leans a little down there. I'm going to switch tanks soon.

ambassador27

Finally, the truck is running the way it should, highest temp today was 267 in 92 degree florida heat..
It started right up, it used to take a few to get it started and I think that had alot to do with using O'donnell Race fuel, I switched to Duratrax Red Alert 20% and it's never run better, ever!!
Here's a vid my daughter shot of it today, I didn't mean to run it out of gas but I was just so damn excited!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuSWx8t96G0

ALFFA164

Nica Ambassador!

What clutch bell are you using? It sound like it is shifting too soon, i think you can get a little bit more out of the first gear... try adjusting the shift point and you will be happier and you will register lower temps too.

tolofrhr

Ok..... I hate this truck!!! I spent 30 minutes working on it for it to run about 15 minutes total. Burned up a plug and burned myself! I can't get this silly thing to run right and stay running. When it runs it's making good smoke and the right rear tire is oily. I'm not an expert at tuning but it looks like it's running rich. I've reset the needle several times and it won't even run unless the needle is at about 3 1/2 turns. The factory setting is 4 1/2. It runs good in first but tends to bog when it hits second sometimes to the point it dies. Most times when I can get it to shift and run for a little while when I hit the brakes it kills the engine. I've adjusted the idle stop and with it idling when I apply full brakes it doesn't die. Leaning it out tends to make it worse and richening it makes it hard to shift. I'm running Tower Hobbies brand 20 percent. This truck reminds me why I HATE nitro!!!! Messy, stinky and requires more work than any toy should!

ALFFA164

Hmmm... this isnt a toy! Just remember that,

Your problem is 100% tuning. Factory settings are too rich... they are set so, so you can break in the engine with no problems. After break in you wont be able to run it properly if you keep the factory settings.

That bogging thing when braking is due to a bad low speed needle calibartion. Go to your LHS and ask them to tune the carb for you.... or ask a friend with experience to do so. If you go back to pages 20 to 25 maybe you can find my explanation to fine tuning carbs... or just use the "search this thread" tool and search for "tuning".

Did you seal your engine? Before trying anything else you should seal it and check for oils leaks and air bubbles in the fuel line.

tolofrhr

Yea.... I need to do some work on it. I'm just disappointed with the quality and I have never been a fan of nitro but I got such a good deal on it I had to give it a try. It's just more trouble than it's worth sometimes. Especially when electric is plug and play with almost zero maintenance. My slash is my favorite truck because it is so low maintenance. Most work I've had to do is change the motor and that was only by choice!.

ambassador27

Quick run tonight after adjusting the shift point, still needs more adjustment... Never thought about Loc-titing the wheels/ hubs but here ya go...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpsK_qE8qYY

Steve

My Feedback: (54)

Got my diffs put together with the aluminum upgrades. I've run the truck through about a gallon of fuel and the only thing I seen in the gears was the pinion gears were a little sharp. The ring gears still looked new, so I replaced the pinion gears while every thing was apart.

tolofrhr

Ok....I.ve just about had it with this truck! I can't get it to stay running! I think I( have it tuned pretty good. It runs great but about half the time when I let off and coast or hit the brakes at high speed and hold them it dies. And it always does it when it's the furtherest away! I've adjusted the idle stop just about as far as I can. That hasn't helped. This truck has reminded me why I despise nitro!!!!!

bushhiker

Hey guys, i am new to this forum and have been reading the past 20 pages or so.

i just bought a RT-X about 3 months ago and think i have a problem when the truckis held off the ground and i spin the rear wheels i can literly feel the gears and it is a bit stiff. the front wheels are a lot smother. i think this is a diff problem? it has been a problem since day 1 but it is starting to bother me now. are the diffs bad or what ? thanks in advance for your hep

ALFFA164

Its a shame this POS will give many racers a bad taste about nitro. This car has big issues with the engine,fuel tank, plastics too britleand gears, i have posted it many many time before, in this thread and the warheads thread. Buth hey.. i guess for some 200 bucks were 100% worth the pain when they bought it. Once again... you get what you pay for and i´ve tried to lead many people away from this truck but it seems to be it has some sort of special magnet.

Tolofrhr, your problem has nothing to do with the idle stop, you have a tuning issue, no matter how bad or good an engine is it will have always such problems if it isnt tuned. This can happen to the $500+ racing engines too. As i suggested before... get some help from some one with experience in nitro, this isnt the same as your electrics.

Sorry guys, as i also said before, i have over2 years of experience with this POS, its not just that i want to bash it. Iused to love this truck for a very long time but since i discovered this is the lowest quality on the market i stoped loving it. Ithink even tower terror is a lot better. Now i can drive my other cars, some have burnt 3 gallons and they havent show any sign of tear, not a single problem no matter how hard drive them.

Well, anyway... i stayed on this forums to be helpfull, if you have any questions please feel free to ask.

Have a nice day and get some pills for the headache .

ambassador27

  I agree with ALFFA, this isn't the best truck to have as a first nitro, it's got issues, no doubt about it but ya get what ya pay for..
This was my 2nd nitro, the first being an HPI Firestorm which was cheap too and I've never had an issue with.. I've actually had a fun time with this truck and its quirks.. I've also takin what I've read on this forum and applied it to the RTX and it runs well now, am i gonna be doin backflips or jumpin houses with it, NO but it has givin me a lesson in troubleshooting nitros and that was worth $200 bucks alone..
 Bottomline.. If ya want a 1/8 scale truck that will take a beating, save up $500-600 bucks and buy a Savage, T-maxx or the like, I wouldn't bash Nitro because of this truck, it is what it is, a $200 buck truck..