samguan

I've been looking for this all day and still can't find the information. I have a 1/10 Tamiya Stadium Truck and I believe that the differentials are loosen. It's experience torque steering which I think means that one of the wheels are getting more torque than others. I was told to tighten up the differentials, but how would I do that?

guver

My Feedback: (325)

I don't think a loose diff will deliver unequal tork to wheels, it will still be equal but more towards delivering more wheel speed to the wheel with the least traction. In any case if the diff is a ball diff there's usually an allen bolt right thru the center of it and tightening it tightens a diff spring for more tension. If it's a gear diff then using thicker oil is the way to tighten it. It may not be adjustable at all.

binaryterror

Sounds like a diff problem, though unless it has a ball diff tightening you can only tune by using thicker greases in the diff.

What truck do you own. Tamiya makes many "Stadium Trucks" it has a name.

guver

My Feedback: (325)

Yes, point us to the specific truck, maybe an exploded view will help. It sounds like it is 4WD too.

samguan

it's a Tamiya RevStorm, pretty new truck from Tamiya this year. The problem is that during a full throttle, the car will steering to one direction and then go straight.


This is a scanned page from the manual with exploded view. So is this ball or gear? sorry, I'm still new

guver

My Feedback: (325)

It is a gear diff with no adjustment. I'm sure the problem is not in the diff.

It may be due to the truck actually steering while at full throttle (radio issue) or due to weight distribution/traction or weight transfer. It can be some suspension settings throwing off the balance during acceleration too.

samguan

When I first bought the truck, it didn't have any problem running straight. Right now, at full throttle, the car would move a little to one direction for a second or so and then it would go straight. I know that the radio is ok because during low throttle, it would so straight perfectly. Also, one more question, this diff is not sealed or anything right?

guver

My Feedback: (325)

Maybe some bench testing is in order. Clamp it down to a stand and jazz it WOT a bunch while watching the front wheel cut. It may be indeed turning while at full throttle and not at idle or partial throttle. Many of my trucks do this.

Your diff has no o-rings/seals so it isn't a "sealed" diff.

samguan

I'II try that tomorrow. Also, one more question not related to this. If my car comes with 3.0CC engine and just in case that my engine break, only a 3.00CC engine will directly fit right? since the bigger block are also bigger in size??

binaryterror

You can tune a gear diff, with Diff grease. Kyosho makes diff grease in varying thicknesses. It will come out but be better than nothing or having the silicone diff oil just leak right out.

You'll need to replace a 3.0 engine with a small block, .12 to .20. Anything bigger in most cases such as a .21 of bigger will have a much larger engine case.

samguan

I have carefull examined the problem today and found out that the wheels are indeed straight during full throttle but stills moves alot to one direction and then goes straight. From my observation, I can see that it's not the steering problem, I believe the torque from the back is causing the front to move in one direction.

Anyways, I was driving my car at the parking lot today and suddenly my engine sound sounded different and I turned off the engine and had trouble turning it one. But eventually got the engine started but the sound is different. Any ideas?

samguan

Another observation was it looked like that the torque from the engine is twisting the car causing it to move in one direction and then once it picked up speed, it was fine going straight.

samguan

How come on Tower Hobbies spec web page. it says the gear box is SEALED??

This is the 1/10 scale radio controlled, glow powered, ready to run
Tamiya XBG RevStorm Off-Road Truck.

FEATURES: Chassis: TNS-T18 double deck-resin upper deck with 0.10" (2.5mm)
thick aluminum lower deck
Drive: Four wheel shaft drive
Engine: Tamiya .18 cu in (3.0cc) FS-18FD with pull starter, rotary
carburetor, glow plug, foam air filter
Muffler: TM-4, constructed of aluminum
Radio: 2-channel Adspec GP AM 27MHz with steering and throttle trim
and reverse, two standard servos, transmitter does not have charge
jack
Shocks: Oil filled, plastic body
Brake: Large diameter single disc
Fuel Tank: 2.2oz (65cc)
Tires: 4" (102mm) diameter, 1.9" (48mm) wide racing tread with foam
inserts
Wheels: Chrome 10 spoke 3" (75mm) diameter, 1.8" (47mm) wide
Gearboxes: Sealed
Body: Painted and trimmed lightweight polycarbonate with separate
rear wing
Bumpers: Front and rear plastic kick-up type
Clutch: Two shoe with 14 tooth clutch bell
Spur Gear: Metal 52 tooth
Suspension: Four wheel independent double wishbone
Caster: Adjustable, caster/toe-in refers to the angle of the front
suspension when viewed from the side of the car in relation to the
chassis
Camber: Adjustable, camber refers to the angle of the tops of the
tires from vertical when viewed from front or behind vehicle