adeoliver

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**EDIT** Got new info at the bottom!!**


Well I dont know if anyone will use this info, but Ive cracked the 1-way bearing in my .26, and can see why, the case is a poor design and in no way is able to withstand the pressure on this engine. Ive come up with a fix for it, that IMO is vertualy bomb proof.
I noticed when I first got my .26, that the pullstart assembly was almost identical to a .247, theres only 3 differences.

1-the back plates are different inside and out but carry the same mounting dimentions.
2-the 1-ways are a bit different, the picco is narrow and thin with a large slot for the crank, and the xtm is twice as thick with a smaller slot for the crank!!
3-the 1-way shafts are different lengths, the picco being short, while the xtm being longer to compinsate for the thickness, but they are both the same exact thing other than that!!

With that said a little moddification is in order.

First I tried to figure out a way to mount the xtm 1-way to the picco back plate, but it just would not work(the xtm bearing is just to large) it fits the back plate nicely, but binds up with the connecting rod and does not allow the plate to slide all the way in!! So after a couple hours of figureing this is not going to work I desided to try the XTM back plate just for S&G's. I was suprised that it slipped right in and was perfactly lined up to be mounted, so I stuffed the xtm 1-way in it and tried to mate the xtm setup to the engine but had problems doing so. It turned out that the slot in the 1-way was just a hair to narrow for the crank to slip in, so I grabbed my trusty dremel, stuck a sanding/buffing wheel and rambed it into the slot, low and behold just a little material was removed but just enough for the slot to slide right on the crank. I then mounted everything to the engine just for a few test pulls, and wallah it works perfact, no more catching and releasing, just the way it should be nice and tight!! After all that I decided to go ahead and try it out, so I pulled the pullstart and back plate off, siliconed the backing plate, sinched it on, and put the pullstart back on. Im gonna take her out tommarrow and see how she does and see if the backplate leaks at all, which I dont think it will but you never know, Ill let you guys know how it works out, not sure if anyone will use this info, but I can guarntee that the 1-way wont crack on this beefy SOB and Im pretty sure it could handle the RotoStart 100x's better than any other bearing!!
I forgot to take pix of the setup but hey you get the point right!! LOL

Thanks for looking!!

cemeb4dk

Keep us updated, sounds better than my solution , I sent whole engine to ofna, so that they can put back on the lousy same one way probably.. so in my solution doesn't work
so you used
the .247 backplate,shaft and one way bearing, you used none of the picco stuff on it, did you still have to use the spring or no

gtxracer7

Just because the backplate is plastic doesn't mean it won't work and be reliable...

gtxracer7

In case you haven't noticed, metal isn't always the right path. Ever heard of SuperMaxx? They make most of their parts out of 7075 aluminum, yet their 10mm and 8mm tranny conversions are made out of plastic! Why is that? Why are bulletproof vests made out of Kevlar and not steel? Why? Because it gets the job done better than the metal. Metal is not always the solution. I have yet to hear a bad thing about the plastic back plate. It's only in your head...

adeoliver

My Feedback: (4)

LOL Im glad to see your reziliance!! I my self am not one to just "hack things together" I am one to find a better more improved way to fix problems with out solutions, hence the 1-way issue which is a issue, and if you could not tell the difference between the picco and XTM Ive got some glass's you could barrow!! And just to let you in on a little secrect, the plastic back plate is much better then the aluminum for many reasons, cooling, flexing and overall SEALING!! It is a little loose in the picco, but the 1 o-ring fits nice and snug, oh and the picco only has 1 o-ring as well!!

I can understand why you would want to go with OEM parts, but I just plain dont like the OEM parts for this engine, IMO this engine was cobbled together from square one, and has showed it since its release!! Now If I felt this was a bad Idea I would not have posted it here, and I most certainly would not have said how it was done!! But like I said IMO this is a far better setep then the original pullstart assembly, and I can stand behind it for the simple fact that Ive ran many 247's and never had 1 failior on any of it, includeing the back plate!! But I will recomend not to do this if you are not willing to make some mods and just keep replaceing same ole weak part that WILL break!! BTW take a look at a .12 or .15 picco one way, the cases are almost identical cept the .26 has a bigger stroke and needs a wider lip.!!



Cemeb4dk: yup just the backplate, 1-way and 1-way shaft w/spring, the pullstart is the exact same thing as the picco to. As for the spring it is not needed, took it out of my 247 and never had a problem, its only use is when takeing the pullstart off, it will push it off instead of the coil spring poping out, thats it!!


GTXracer: exactly!! It is a proven design, and is in some ways better!!

gtxracer7

I'm a guy for performance, not cosmetics.

adeoliver

My Feedback: (4)

LOL like I said this will prove its worth with the roto start, I feel as though it will hold up alot better. And like I said Ill let everyone know how it works. And as for your screw theory I think your getting off base it is not an issue!! I would not recomend taking the spring off but I did and had no problems. As for doing it the right way, whats the point when its a proven failior??? Why put the same thing back in and know its going to fail??? I just dont see the point of fixing something with a faulty part?? Not saying that this is not a faulty setup, but Im pretty sure it will hold up to what ever I through at it!! Theres only a few issues here that you need to worry about!!

Meshing of the parts!!
Sealing of the parts!!
And operation of the parts.

Now the meshing and operation work like they are supposed to, and the sealing seams to be good, but we will see in a short time!!

adeoliver

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The last word is all yours!! Nuff said LOL.

Oh wait, Im also glad you did not resort to that childish behaior thats so blatently used in these forums. Thats not what we are here for, and I must say Im suprised that your the first one to make legit remarks on this setups behalf. In other words questioning its reliability, and thinking maybe it will not work, everything youve said was a legit asumption, and your own opinion on the situation!! I comend you for haveing a few choice examples laid on the table infront of me, and I as well enjoy a challenge on a higher level then name calling and what nots!!

gtxracer7

Word.

adeoliver

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LOL Im glad this isnt a spelling quiz LMAO!! Id probably be booted out for not knowing how to spell khat(cat)!!

adeoliver

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Hey elway just to let you know, were not RCU guys, we are maxxtraxx guys, we just moved to here because our beloved home(maxxtraxx) has fallen into the hands of the enemy


LOL or something like that!!!




Oh ya
















WORD hehe

adeoliver

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hehe

adeoliver

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WORD

gtxracer7

WORD.....to your MOTHER!

gtxracer7

lol. We are just trying to find a new home

adeoliver

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Off is exactly what I am, and 101% proud of it!! Or something to that affect LOL!!

skydalimit

My Feedback: (1)

Hey gtx u just said that metal is not good for everything

In case you haven't noticed, metal isn't always the right path. Ever heard of SuperMaxx? They make most of their parts out of 7075 aluminum, yet their 10mm and 8mm tranny conversions are made out of plastic! Why is that? Why are bulletproof vests made out of Kevlar and not steel? Why? Because it gets the job done better than the metal. Metal is not always the solution. I have yet to hear a bad thing about the plastic back plate. It's only in your head...


but your signature says

If it doesn't work, keep adding more metal 'til it does!

lmao

adeoliver

My Feedback: (4)

LOL you actualy just made his point!! If it DOESNT work, use somthing that does, metal is plainly tougher, but in most case's its not needed unless plastic just wont hold up, at that point upgrade it to something stronger!!

skydalimit

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lol i think i see it in a diferent way

i "know" gtx and just wanted to make him think twice

lol just sounds funny

adeoliver

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LOL I didnt have to think about it twice

I know what it means, cause Ive been there many times

gtxracer7

I almost removed that before posting the first time in this thread. That's a quote from Jesse James anyway...

and we all know how he does things!

skydalimit

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o yeah i saw that on monster garage

adeoliver

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Ok well I got a chance to try out the pullstart mod on engine late yesterday!! I forgot how much compression this engine had until I tried to fire it!! Anyways once I got it running and warmed up I started to do some high speed runs with it checking to see if anything would come loose or start leaking, I ran about 4 tanks of these high speed runs back and forth down the street!! After the fourth hot run at about 250* I brought it in cooled it off took the engine off, and checked for any leaking, no signs of any leaking around the back plate. So, I put the engine back in the truck and went after it again!! I ran another 4 tanks of fuel through it @ 240* with out a problem!! Ill take it to the track tommarrow after I pick up some more fuel, and if it holds strong at the track then I have no dought it will last a very long time. But Ill let you know how it works out tommarrow if I get the chance to go!!

gtxracer7

Sounds sweet. SO what differences do the Picco and the 24.7 carry, performance wise?

adeoliver

My Feedback: (4)

To be honest I am not impressed!!!!!!! Need I say more??? Ive had to do a ton of work to this thing just to get it reliable, and still its a bit finiky!! A side by side performance comparison is pretty close, the only addvantage this engine has on my 247 is the RPMs (which arent much more then my ported and polished 247), and it seems to go through less fuel, It has just about as much lowend grunt as the XTM but the power band cant hold a candle to the XTM. Now Im sure if I replace the low speed needle in the original carb it would probably run alot faster and have alot more lowend grunt, but dont quote me on that, cause its got a 7mm carb right now and the stock carb I think has an 8mm insert!! Im gonna tool around with it a bit and see if she's realy worth the extra bucks!!