savage X spur gear keeps getting destroyed!!
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savage X spur gear keeps getting destroyed!!
Hi All
I recently picked up a used savage. It's motor was shot.. So I put on a brand new Axial 32 Spec 1s (sick motor by the way)..
Well,, i quickly stripped my first plastic spur due to a mesh issue.. the teeth on the clutchbell were sitting too far forward, so not all of the plastic spur gear teeth were getting meshed.. So I resolved that by putting a new plastic spur gear in, and flipping it around ,so the curve faced the front, making the teeth stick further toward the front. The Axial is a bit longer than the stoock motor so I cannot push it any farther back. But once I flipped the spur, the mesh was perfect! It moved free but not too free.. I ran 3 tanks through it with it still at super-rich factory settings.. These tanks were all run at night by the way so it was no more than 70 degrees.
So today I go to run it , it was about 87 degrees out. I leaned it out about 1/4 of a turn. Ran it for a bit no issues.. Leaned it another half turn.. then when I got down to about 1/4 tank left, the truck got stuck, it wouldn't move, the mesh got stuck.. I moved it back and forth and it solved it. But then I ran into an issue with a tire, so I stopped the engine. I checked now and the spur gear is all destroyed. The teeth dont look chipped off but they look more like theyre melted/squished together, and it barely grabs now.
I called HPI and they said my clutchbell melted the spur gear, and so I should switch to metal spur gear and vented clutch bell.
Well the local hobby shop was against the metal spur gear , but I got one anyways. And he claimed the vented clutchbell was not hardened so i got the non vented hardened bell.
What do you all think about this? Should I go to metal , and will it solve my issues, or do you think it will cause issues? Do you think it was just bad mesh? I don't think it was mesh issues, since I did the paper test and it looked great.. I had small crimps in the paper but it did not tear.. And the fact that it ran fine when it was cool out and only got melted/stripped/shredded when it was hot out ,makes me think a metal gear is the solution.
All advice would be GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks!!
I recently picked up a used savage. It's motor was shot.. So I put on a brand new Axial 32 Spec 1s (sick motor by the way)..
Well,, i quickly stripped my first plastic spur due to a mesh issue.. the teeth on the clutchbell were sitting too far forward, so not all of the plastic spur gear teeth were getting meshed.. So I resolved that by putting a new plastic spur gear in, and flipping it around ,so the curve faced the front, making the teeth stick further toward the front. The Axial is a bit longer than the stoock motor so I cannot push it any farther back. But once I flipped the spur, the mesh was perfect! It moved free but not too free.. I ran 3 tanks through it with it still at super-rich factory settings.. These tanks were all run at night by the way so it was no more than 70 degrees.
So today I go to run it , it was about 87 degrees out. I leaned it out about 1/4 of a turn. Ran it for a bit no issues.. Leaned it another half turn.. then when I got down to about 1/4 tank left, the truck got stuck, it wouldn't move, the mesh got stuck.. I moved it back and forth and it solved it. But then I ran into an issue with a tire, so I stopped the engine. I checked now and the spur gear is all destroyed. The teeth dont look chipped off but they look more like theyre melted/squished together, and it barely grabs now.
I called HPI and they said my clutchbell melted the spur gear, and so I should switch to metal spur gear and vented clutch bell.
Well the local hobby shop was against the metal spur gear , but I got one anyways. And he claimed the vented clutchbell was not hardened so i got the non vented hardened bell.
What do you all think about this? Should I go to metal , and will it solve my issues, or do you think it will cause issues? Do you think it was just bad mesh? I don't think it was mesh issues, since I did the paper test and it looked great.. I had small crimps in the paper but it did not tear.. And the fact that it ran fine when it was cool out and only got melted/stripped/shredded when it was hot out ,makes me think a metal gear is the solution.
All advice would be GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks!!
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RE: savage X spur gear keeps getting destroyed!!
***UPDATE ****
I think I found out why I stripped the hell out of the plastic gear..
Well I picked up this savage used. I used the existing clutchbell from the hpi motor and put it on my Axial 32 Spec 1s motor. I did not realize it is a hardened steel clutch bell. Or at least I am PRETTY sure it is. It is a vented clutch bell... so it might be the hpi hardened racing bell.. that being the case, that is probably why I stripped out my plastic spur..
So would it be best if I just get a normal non-hardened HPI clutch bell and plastic spur, then return my metal spur/clutch combo ?
Thanks!
I think I found out why I stripped the hell out of the plastic gear..
Well I picked up this savage used. I used the existing clutchbell from the hpi motor and put it on my Axial 32 Spec 1s motor. I did not realize it is a hardened steel clutch bell. Or at least I am PRETTY sure it is. It is a vented clutch bell... so it might be the hpi hardened racing bell.. that being the case, that is probably why I stripped out my plastic spur..
So would it be best if I just get a normal non-hardened HPI clutch bell and plastic spur, then return my metal spur/clutch combo ?
Thanks!
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RE: savage X spur gear keeps getting destroyed!!
No, the clutchbell is not hurting anything.
You have excessively worn clutch shoes and they are heating up the bell and tearing up the spur. That, sir, is the problem.
Get a high quality aluminum clutch and springs (1.0mm or 0.9mm springs) from Mugen and you will be good to go
You have excessively worn clutch shoes and they are heating up the bell and tearing up the spur. That, sir, is the problem.
Get a high quality aluminum clutch and springs (1.0mm or 0.9mm springs) from Mugen and you will be good to go
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RE: savage X spur gear keeps getting destroyed!!
hI ThunderbirdJunkie ,
Thanks for the advice.. I thought a hardened steel clutch will destroy a plastic spur?
I got new hpi clutch shoes, but the ones on there now look mint, very tight springs still..
Now if I switch to the metal spur gear, that'll resolve the issue of melting spur, but will it cause any other issues?
Thanks for the advice.. I thought a hardened steel clutch will destroy a plastic spur?
I got new hpi clutch shoes, but the ones on there now look mint, very tight springs still..
Now if I switch to the metal spur gear, that'll resolve the issue of melting spur, but will it cause any other issues?
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RE: savage X spur gear keeps getting destroyed!!
In most cases the stock plastic shoes are just junk and slip too much.
And no, if you switch to a steel spur it will do nothing but hide your clutch slippage. You will see more power transferred to the ground when you upgrade the clutch. A steel clutchbell will not solve your root problem.
And no, if you switch to a steel spur it will do nothing but hide your clutch slippage. You will see more power transferred to the ground when you upgrade the clutch. A steel clutchbell will not solve your root problem.
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RE: savage X spur gear keeps getting destroyed!!
All the engine dimensions should be the same. Normally when you melt down the plastic spur, it is improper mesh. You also want to make sure the engine mount and especially the mounting plate in the chassis is not cracked. They will torque up and chew that spur up in short order. Another common issue is the slipper being set too light and when the spur gets hot, kiss it goodbye. You should be able to run that Axial with no issues at all. I never got along with the paper mesh program. I set the spur as tight as I can and still be able to spin it by flicking it with my finger. Another spur gear crusher is bad clutch bell bearings. If they get bad, they let the bell wallow around and chew that spur up. While were are on bell bearings, make sure they are not too tight. Hpi sells an excellent spacer set that will let you get it perfect, or really close to it. Too tight, they get hot and burn up. I have also seen bad clutch shoes getting hot enough to warm that bell up beyond the plastic gear's functioning range. The vented or hardened bell should be fine on that plastic spur, running a standard bell on a steel spur will turn the bell into a washer in no time. I caught your post by chance as I was headed to the Savage forums. Come join us, there is a group of hard core Savage guys here on RCU that have replaced or broken about everything there is to break. Your Axial 32 by the way is the same engine as a Hpi K4.6 with a little more bore. I like the Axial 32, it is a good torque producer, kind of limited on rpm though. The plastic gears are great, cheap to replace and a good way to learn. You can run them with the Picco 28s, so I am sure they will hold your 32. If you need Savage help, feel free to PM me. Better yet, come to the RCU Hpi Monster Truck forums. Glen
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RE: savage X spur gear keeps getting destroyed!!
Didn't read TBJ and Budbud's posts, but here's my quick 2 cents.
ONLY use a HPI vented hardened CB with the steel spur, I've eaten RRP Xtra hard CB's with the steel spur on the XL.
Check your engine chassis plate for hairline cracks near the engine mounting holes.
Clean it well and look right where the engine mount bolts to the plate with the engine mount bolts removed.
When the second one got "jammed" it could have been a pebble stuck in there and made a bad spot and it ate itself.
That's my guesses.
ONLY use a HPI vented hardened CB with the steel spur, I've eaten RRP Xtra hard CB's with the steel spur on the XL.
Check your engine chassis plate for hairline cracks near the engine mounting holes.
Clean it well and look right where the engine mount bolts to the plate with the engine mount bolts removed.
When the second one got "jammed" it could have been a pebble stuck in there and made a bad spot and it ate itself.
That's my guesses.