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Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle

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Old 01-03-2010, 04:34 PM
  #226
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ORIGINAL: St.evens

its for using the front brake servo ;P
Oh ok thanks!
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Old 01-05-2010, 08:21 AM
  #227
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can you use a spektrum receiver on the bike. I plan on getting the spectrum dx3e and it come with the sr300 reciever. i was wondering will it be small enough. thanks D
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:47 PM
  #228
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My bike is in the mail. I order mine with a battery adapter so I can use my charger. I order the blue one. I wanted the red one but tower hobbies said that it would have to come from Illinois. So I order the blue one which is coming from their warehouse in Reno. I figure I can buy red body later.
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Old 01-15-2010, 01:45 AM
  #229
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ORIGINAL: shajaan6

Just got one today so far I like the bite, only gripes, battery moves, very little room for battery I was planning on using my twin 3x2 packs from my mini e-revo, and i had to tape the wires back or they hit the tire. Secondly my spur gear hits my body, and thirdly, one of my front shocks poped open, oil everywhere. Never rode before was supposed to be a learner...
I had all the same problem that you had. I was lucky i just bought big bore shocks for my slash and I had left over shock fluid. So i was able to just fill it up again. I had to cut the body to accommodate the spur gears. That should be something they should design better from factory.
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:29 AM
  #230
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Default RE: Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle

hi again ....i moved the forks as front as i gets and now the forks hit the fairings when it turns right/left  is there anything i can do?

also is there a titanium set of bolts or something better than the one comes with the kit ?all the small ones get screwed up realy easy .....
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Old 02-01-2010, 07:27 PM
  #231
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Default RE: Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle

Hi guys, Chris:

Just one question so far. May I use lipo batteries with the standard motor and ESC?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:01 PM
  #232
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Default RE: Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle


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ORIGINAL: Daholla77

can you use a spektrum receiver on the bike. I plan on getting the spectrum dx3e and it come with the sr300 reciever. i was wondering will it be small enough. thanks D
Yes you can use spektrum on the GPV, Here is a linky that shows
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1037774post #8
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Old 02-15-2010, 02:04 AM
  #233
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I was wondering have any body had there pinions come off of there bike my have come off twice. I was wondering what can you do to fix this and what do you do when your grub screws are stripped. I have tighten the grub screw all the way down. This pass weekend i got a chance to use it in a big parking lot and man it was fun, The pinion gear coming off ended the fun.
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:55 AM
  #234
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Default RE: Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle

Didn't you use blue locktite on the pinion set screw? And of course the other metal to metal screws.
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Old 02-15-2010, 02:09 PM
  #235
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I have put locktite on everything. This bike is starting to get real frustrating mainly with it having some problem or another since i bought it. I had to send in the esc because it wasn't working right when I brought it. The pinion gear keeps coming off with loctite so since it came off it messed up the gear. [:@]I haven't road a battery until it is dead since I bought it because something goes wrong. the grub screw come loose, the pinion gear comes off. Then it frustrating how soft the grub screws and the regular screws are, I have stripped a couple. So I plan to order a new hardware kit for the bike, gear, and pinion and give it the old college try again. I understand you have to fix stuff in the rc world but it seems like to much trouble. I know knowing how to drive it has some what of a learning curve which makes fun. I love my slash i so far only broke one thing a shock. Other wise I think it is a great looking bike, great design and all. It starts to get too frustrating I am going to sell it for 120 with two batteries, a hardware set of all the screws, A new pinion and spur gear,Or 100 just for the bike. The body has been cut do to what everybody recommend for better running. Thank you for hearing my vent.
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Old 03-19-2010, 07:33 PM
  #236
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Hello everyone, Just picked up a GPV-1 from a guy that drove it once and said it was too fast for him... As soon as he said that, I knew I had to have it!!! Well, I can't drive the damn thing and where else to ask for help, right here! Okay, I've been into RC for 20 odd years so I'm pretty confident I can handly it but it just seems to be kicking my arse. So, I did square up the servo arm with the linkage, cut away the body where the spur gear hits and that's about it so far. It is completely bone stock and straight from the box. The stock set-up and all. So, I have a clean court that I live on and thought it would be easy to make circuits around but I can't. Here's what's happening: I start to turn nice and wide and everything feels good. I get a little tighter and I mean just a little, and it starts to wobble and ends up going over and tumbling. Again, nice smooth wide turn and then try to make it a little tighter, bam, I'm end over end everytime.

Can someone please help? I lowered the rear of the bikes ride height to level it out, also put it back stock and both times the same thing. I'm sure it's got to be something I'm missing. I see the vids and they corner way better and can handle tight turns. Please help.
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Old 03-19-2010, 07:41 PM
  #237
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Default RE: Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle

Sounds like you need to set up your end points for less travel and use some expo as they are very sensitve on the steering.
Make sure your steering linkage springs are set according to specs. when you hold the bike and shake it the fork should be floppy but want to go back to center somewhat. These little bikes can be a handful to setup and learn to drive. Good luck.
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Old 03-19-2010, 09:59 PM
  #238
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ORIGINAL: microDan

Sounds like you need to set up your end points for less travel and use some expo as they are very sensitve on the steering.
Make sure your steering linkage springs are set according to specs. when you hold the bike and shake it the fork should be floppy but want to go back to center somewhat. These little bikes can be a handful to setup and learn to drive. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply Microdan. So with that being said, I notice when I go full left and full right, my forks hit the side of the front fairing each way. Should I trim off some of the fairing or do like you mention and check my end points? I'm pretty easy on the streering, I fly heli's as well and I'm all over the sensitive movements and all. The steering is floppy like you mentioned. When I adjusted the servo horn, I moved the metal sleeves so the spring was just touching the sleeve and the plastic middle piece....On both ends...

Thanks again for all your guys help. I really want to get this bike in control.

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Old 03-19-2010, 11:22 PM
  #239
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Ok, so I assume you have done all the points shown by Dez in the rcg thread. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1037774
Next, make sure the fork leg tops do not touch the steering rod when the forks move from side to side. ( As from the factory they sometimes do ) Trim the fairing as you have guessed so the forks go full travel with no interference.
As this is a 'stock' bike ( I run one as well ) and it's your first, Set the dual rate to 55-60% on the steering then work your way up to about 75%
55% is very tame but you need it that way for a while at least! ( your heli experience should help you get bigger rates faster )
Leave the suspension 'stock settings', they handle pretty sweet as is.
DO NOT USE LIPO'S!!! Not yet ! The GPVis sensitive to weight changes, stick with the Nimh for the time being.( because the weight is heavier and it is important to keep the CofG low down.) If you must use Lipo, then weigh the Nimh and Lipo and make up the difference with lead wheel weights. ( As used on your1:1car wheels to balance them.)
Are you using Spektrum? Keep the receiver away from the motor, DO NOT follow Dez's advice on this! I use a DX6i and using the main receiver near the motor causes brown outs! ( The last one caused the bike to go full throttle into a 'wall of steel' ) Put the receiver on the tail and make sure you cut out ( Lighten ) the rider.
Just remember, as with the heli, CHANGEONETHINGATATIME! Then you don't get caught out by unexpected handling changes. :-)
Last bit, 'Flick' the steering to get it to turn then use the throttle to balance. (Glad you are a heli pilot, a car driver at this point would say 'EH?')
Enjoy!
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:07 AM
  #240
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Default RE: Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle

As jb said, I forgot to mention about "flicking" the steering and using throttle.
Do not and you cannot drive/steer a bike like a car. I do a little heli myself, so for example as with a heli as you put input into your stick you almost immediately counteract with output if you know what I mean. Think of the bike like flying a heli on the ground. And as jb said
I forgot to mention dual rates to start off. Set it up for and learn to make wide turns first, don't rush the tight turns or you'll just get discouraged.
The cleaner the surface the less the bike will want to crash. Make wide turns by small inputs in the wheel, sort of like to turn right turn the wheel right and then go to neutral and let the bike drive thru the turn and then flick the steering left, neutral or right to maintain the lean and adding throttle will stand the bike up from a lean to come out of the turn to now go straight. Ideal turns are the ones where you don't hear the guide wires scrape. So do the nice and easier to control wide turns to get the hang of what it takes to control the bike in a turn. See if you can get the bike to go in a very large circle then try a figure 8 etc. One other thing is to make sure the bike is trimmed properly to go straight. You want it to go hands off the wheel straight, if you're fighting a straight line run you'll have a harder time to control a turn. I hope some of this made sense.
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:26 AM
  #241
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Well crap! I just got done typing this huge response explaining everything I've done and another million questions! Hit post and I guess my session timed out!!! Oh well, I'll trying and keep this one shorter.

dj and microdan, thank you both for your inputs! I love this hobby and it's guys like you that take the time for others that makes it so great! Thanks. Oh, to you to Dez, if you ever read this....

Okay, I've done most of the basic mods from Dez's thread. I'm still running the stock 72mhz system with the stock battery. Been holding back on my Mamba system and lipo install till I can actually make a few laps around my court. I just bought the front brake kit from Hobbytown (they had it for $29.00) but I haven't installed it yet. Hopefully I'll get a chance today. While I'm doing that, I'll do the fork end mod where I dremel the caps to make a little more room for the tire. I'll also check the front forks for any burs or binding. I hadn't done that yet as it seemed pretty smooth already. O-rings, O-rings..... I'm confused on which ones to move, where to move them and which ones to remove all together. Okay, so there's two O-rings, one on each side of the steering arm slider. Do I remove them both or leave? There are three O-rings on the right side slider link. Do I move those and if so, where to?

I'm going to change the D/R on the transmitter to the 55% area and see how that does. Thank you for that suggestion. Also, thanks for the turning tips. If I didn't know any better, I would say Microdan is an MSF Ridercouch! I am and to be honest, you described a 1:1 turn perfectly! Good to know driving this little bike is just like it's bigger brothers. Now just to learn to see what the bike needs to do rather than feel for it....

TOP TIP - The brass bearing spacer remains stationary in both forks and swing arm so any drag on the hex adaptors will slow your bike a lot, especially on kit motor.
Drill right through all discs and chain sprockets to give the brass spacer enogh clearnace. Use 6.5mm drill first to do it gradually, then a 7mm drill is perfect and still leaves plenty of material in hex.
Safety first, mind your fingers, the drill will grab, oh yes
(ask me how I know, drip drip drip...)
So hold hex in a tube spanner while drilling, not a vise or pliers or you will squeeze it and remove too much material.

On this one, I don't have a 6.5mm or 7mm laying around. What size should I use in Standard sizes?

Okay, I think that's it for this post. Thanks for all the help guys and for future info.
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:52 AM
  #242
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If you don't have a 6.5 or 7mm drill bit then I would advise leaving it for the time being, unless you are racing it isn't a huge issue.

The ''o''rings on the steering horn collar can be left on as well, I took mine off then started to think they can help a little with damping, when my bike is fixed and running I will do back to back tests and let you know.
The steering damper ''o''rings ALL want sliding to the rear of the damper so they are just dangling and doing nothing, it's too much damping effect with them on and causes more problems than it's worth. (probably one of the reasons you were crashing on corners)
Keep us informed of progress...
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:10 AM
  #243
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Default RE: Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle

Ooooh, forgot this one.
when the steering is straight, look behind the steering slider thats on top of the servo horn. Behind it on the frame there is a dome headed bolt there. Take out the bolt and re-fit it from the other side. It can catch the slider and hold you into turns.
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:23 AM
  #244
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Default RE: Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle


Quote:
ORIGINAL: jb.

If you don't have a 6.5 or 7mm drill bit then I would advise leaving it for the time being, unless you are racing it isn't a huge issue.

The ''o''rings on the steering horn collar can be left on as well, I took mine off then started to think they can help a little with damping, when my bike is fixed and running I will do back to back tests and let you know.
The steering damper ''o''rings ALL want sliding to the rear of the damper so they are just dangling and doing nothing, it's too much damping effect with them on and causes more problems than it's worth. (probably one of the reasons you were crashing on corners)
Keep us informed of progress...
I'm hoping one of the other US guys will tell me what size drill bit they used... Hell, I had to special order a 5mm drill bit for making holes for my LEDs on other RC vehicles... I'll hold off for now, thanks.

I hope this picture works. Is this what I should do? The o-rings are slid forward in this picture. What does that do for me if I do that?

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Old 03-20-2010, 11:32 AM
  #245
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The o rings grip the damper causing the bike to topple over. A bike has to ''feel'' it's way around a corner and if it does that by ''shaking it's head'' slightly then that's fine. By the o rings trying to grip on to the steering, it stops that finding it's way effect and just makes the bike wobble and crash. (Ask me how I know!)
When I get back to the computer on monday/tuesday (I should have left to go to Leeds over half an hour ago) I will try to find some video of Dave Scouse's 1/5 bike. It shakes it's head like crazy but the bike goes sooooo fast round corners.
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:34 AM
  #246
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Default RE: Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle

edit: do as shown in that picture, better steering guaranteed!
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:39 AM
  #247
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Copy, thanks jb. I will do with the o-rings, check all the other stuff and get back to you guys. Thanks again.
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:46 PM
  #248
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Default RE: Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle

The 6.5mm drill is = to .250 = 1/4"
7mm = close enough to 9/32"
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:49 PM
  #249
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Default RE: Venom-Racing GPV-1 motorcycle


Quote:
ORIGINAL: microDan

The 6.5mm drill is = to .250 = 1/4''
7mm = close enough to 9/32''
Sweet, thanks microdan! Did you do this mod?
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:54 PM
  #250
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NO, I did not. It didn't seem to be an issue I was aware of. Reading the tip again reminded me of long ago when the tip was posted. But I really never even looked into it. My bikes are fine....
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