ravill

My Feedback: (11)

A few questions:

I get it, motorcycles need some finesse to run correctly. E.G., CG changes help (ie, raising the CG or moving the CG backwards), making the steering "floppy", slowing down for the turns, commencing the turn with opposite steering control, etc....

1. Anyone tried a Gyro?

It seems that 1/5 scale bike would have no problem with fitting a small piezo gyro.

2. Do the front brake kits allow you to put the LEFT and the RIGHT brakes on at the same time?

More brakes=Mo' betta steering control?

It seems that, like on the full scale, brakes are a necessary component to enter turns correctly.

3. Locking up the rear tire to get the bike skidding in the direction you want to go, will that help?

I'm picking up my bike tomorrow, so I'll give some of these things a try.

What are some of your thoughts?

Anyone think there ought to be a Bike Noob "sticky"?

Raf

bikeracer

You won't need a gyro,the wheels have a gyroscopic effect once the bikes running.

You don't steer them like a car,the front tyre needs to point in the opposite direction to the side you want to turn,just like full size the bikes turn by leaning,so a front tyre pointing to the right will make a bike fall onto its left side and vice versa.
You control the radius of the turn with the throttle.

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rcktpwrd

driving an RC bike is way different than a buggy. Like bikeracer said you kinda have to turn the opposite way that you want to go to get the bike to lean over in the intended direction. It takes some practice to get a feel for it

Guidoracer

Once a bike is running at anything faster than a slow walk, they are completely stable. Like bikeracer said, no gyro is needed at all on a road bike.

You don't have to steer the opposite way you want to turn, you just have to set up the radio to turn the front forks the opposite way.

Dual brakes look cool, but are completely unnecessary. A single disc can be made to have enough stopping power to endo, which you probably don't want to do anyway. With minor mods, the cheap stamped steel $18 Thunder Tiger front brake kit can perform as well as the machined alumium $65 KP Designs front brake. I raced the TT brake for two seasons, picking up the NATC Championship for 2007. But the TT one required maintenance, where I can't see the KP needing to be touched at all for a long time.

My experience is that once you lock up the rear wheel, if it leaning at all, it will fall down in a nasty way. You can spin the rear wheel through a corner, but you never want it to lock up.

stubbyphilips

There are no dumb questions, just annoying ones.
I know for a fact that the Thunder tiger chassis is competitive, I've been beat on numerous occasions by them. The best way to make your bike faster is to drive the freakin wheels off of it. And all you really need is some decent tires. A grp soft up front and an extra soft on the rear. and a few spare stock rear shocks until you master building the rear shock.
PM me if you think you would like to come out on Sept. 7

splcrazy

when you get the bike to lean in the direction you want to turn , do you return the steering servo to neutral ?

bikeracer

You basically let go of the steering,or at least let it return to neutral.The throttle is used to get round a corner with maybe just a bit of steering correction.If you hold the steering on the front tends to wash out and make a large turning radius.

My riding style tends to be...hit the brakes,drop the bike over and open the throttle to control the turn radius,if the bike's going wide it's off the throttle and perhaps a dab of brake to tighten the turn,it all depends on the corners on a track,they all vary.


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splcrazy

is it possible to make sharp turns at slow speeds , and when you got the bike to lean and make it turn left or right how do you get it to stand up and go straight again . sorry for the questions lol but i bought my nitro desmo ducati a while ago and crashed it trying to understand how the steering thing works now i have to buy some new replacements parts to make it all work and look new again lol, and is it better to put 2 steering dampers on it from the servo to the forks ? i see alot of people do this upgrade does it help with steering the bike easier.

bikeracer

You can only do sharp turns at slow speed,it's not a problem to turn a 1/5 bike through 180 degrees in a lot less than the width of a track.The length of the slider bars each side will also determine the tightest turn you can make.If the fairing grounds out the bike will washout,so basically you need the shortest side bars that stop the fairing grounding on a dry track,longer bars if it's wet.
Just lean the bike onto its side bars on the bench and make sure you can still see daylight under the fairing.

Just open the throttle and give a bit of opposite steering if necessary to correct it,it becomes second nature after a short while.

The favoured steering system in the UK is a very long servo arm with a spring approx one and a half to two inches long either side then a separate damper from the triples secured to any convenient fixed point on the bike.The springs are fairly hard and held in place with a collet at each end and the tension is adjusted to suit how sharp or soft you want the steering.

http://www.formbymodelshop.com/fm021...-rod-866-p.asp

Start off with no spring compression and keep moving the collets in until you get the steering response you want,too tight and the bike won't stay down in the corners,too slack and you get a poor steering response at speed,this is where the long servo arm comes into play,you can adjust the steering on the fly using the dual rate on the TX.
The idea is to have some spring left without any compression on it at opposite lock of the forks to the servo input,this saves servo gears in a crash or bad head shake.

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