microDan

airshares,
I can see part of your problem from your statement about cars. You cannot attempt to drive or steer this bike or any bike like a car. Also this is the hardest bike to crash ever built just kidding sort of. This bike is so stable it's almost a fault. If your crashing then it's definitely not right. It takes little input to steer/lean the bike, use a lower rate on the steering. turn first, tight turns take a little more time as do fast tight turns. Practice with wide figure eights the idea is to make a turn and don't hit the crash bars/sliders.
You also need a hi-cap battery. A 3300-4000mah lipo 25c is the way to go. Counter steering/leaning can take a little getting use too. The best way to describe this is to say your driving a helicopter on the ground. To make turns and not to drop the bike on it's side is done this way, as soon as you get the bike to lean into the turn you can either let the wheel go to neutral or give it throttle to get the bike back up and control the turn. You'll keep the bike in a controlled lean by actually turning the wheel back and forth/neutral to get the bike down and to keep it up. I hope this makes some sense. But if the bike is driven like a car and you hold the wheel for the turn it will not turn correctly and will just slide on the bars. In a turn you are on the wheel in both directions - neutral and throttle. As input goes in you need to take input out.
As you probably saw all the real good suspension oil filled front forks are an option. And a few alloy parts.
To be honest if every RC guy that tried bikes gave up because of these things there would not be any RC bikers. It can be a frustrating challenge. But once it all comes together it is one of the most satisfying RC models. Thats what I love about the bikes. They are so simple but yet so complicated.
Here is an over view of some great driving,
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDuyH7Q85-U&feature=related]From the drivers stand[/link]

[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvlwttBshKs&feature=player_embedded]View from the bike steering[/link]

microDan

BTW are you spooling up the Gyro before you launch the bike? Hold the bike clear with the rear wheel clear and go full throttle for at least 3 seconds. Now just give the bike a little push on the ground and small throttle input and off it goes.

airshares

My Feedback: (16)

I did spool it up but not at full throttle for 3 seconds. I will try that. It did launch fine and took off down the street well. The straight aways were great. Its the cornering and bumps that gave it trouble. I did do the steering technique you recommended. That did help it turn tighter. I need to get the crash bars on there and give it another go. The front suspension is the worst. I took it apart tonight to try and tighten it up.
Where did you get that steering damper?

microDan

Steering damper [link=http://2wheelhobbies.com/product_info.php?products_id=351]2wheelhobby[/link]
The damper is tuned with spring tension and oil weight.
But you'll need the pivot balls. You can get this [link=http://2wheelhobbies.com/product_info.php?products_id=251]damper hardware[/link]
And you'll need 3 - 2.5mm nuts.
You can also try putting more tension on the steering springs on the bike by bringing the collars closer together, just a mm or so at a time. As this also makes the bike steer faster and can take some of the head shake out. Put a small piece of silicone tubing on the steering rod so the collar doesn't go shooting off when you loosen the screw.
Spooling up at full throttle you'll hear the gyro engage and really speed up that's what you want. The gyro will eventualy spool down unless you make full throttle speed runs to keep it going.
So there is alot going on here to make it all come together, like I said it's a simple complication

airshares

My Feedback: (16)

Duratrax sells an optional part called a "Steering set oil" Do you think this is their version of a damper?
Also, Should I take out those weights in the gyro you mentioned in an earlier post?

microDan

Taking out the weights, retaining ring and retainer ring screws make the bike more responsive, faster and a bit easier to steer and still remains very stable. Please refer to the manual while doing the mod. It's a quick mod and can be reversed or just remove the weights no big deal. You'll find oil in the tire just wipe it all clean. Do not add lube inside the gyro. I hadn't seen the steering set oil you mentioned. Do you have a link. I know they make a pro steering linkage which just seems to be a straight rod that would mount to a different triple tree hole to modify the throw sensitivity. You never mention the bike doing accidental or on purpose wheelies, does it?
If not then your battery does not have enough punch.
The rear fender will rollup and crack unless you have something like this.
Here's my wheelie bar. Made from 1/8 steel rod.
It slips in tight in the two holes that are already there.
I just need to get my 2 (1/8") wheel collars on there.
It fits real tight just slipped in but I did lose one, the collars will keep it locked in.
A small piece of silicone tubing on a longer screw between the body and frame will provide the clearance.

airshares

My Feedback: (16)

http://www.duratrax.com/cars/dtxd02-...tionparts.html
or go to Towerhobbies and look at the parts lists for the DX450. its part number LX4625 No pictures though. Its $10 at tower.
Mine does do wheelies. I used a 2S 3800MAH lipo in it. 35C.
I will add that wheelie bar. I bet the rider just gets destroyed. Are their better riders out there to use?
One thing I did do that I am wondering if it had an effect on handling was I added those large collars on the crash bars like the manual says. But in all the pictures and videos nobody runs them. I wonder if they snagged on the concrete. I took them off tonight and will try running without them.

microDan

Here's my rider, very scale and nearly bullet proof. The lexan rider needs to be reinforced with Shoo Goo around the neck, seams and other weak impact points.


My aspahalt outriggers. I made a new much nicer design since these. I'll have new pics in a couple of days.
I used these to make my speed runs.

microDan

DTXC4625 is something that's not out yet problaby for a damper set that's not out yet. You'll see a few more option parts to be released like working disk brakes etc. Theres's a reason for every hole on that bike.
I forgot to mention when you do the gyro mod the brakes work better.
I drilled out my crash bars mounts to take standard 3/16 nylon rod so I can make my own. You should have gotten 2 sets with the bike 1 long and 1 shorter set.
The collar is to avoid wear on the bars, I never used them as I can see them digging in. You can go thru a rod in a pack or two but the idea is to stay of the bars.
Thay are also there to get the bike back up after it lays down. Just throttle up and turn the wheel in the opposite direction of the donut.

airshares

My Feedback: (16)

I like those bars you made. I also like the rider. Where do you get the rider?

microDan

The rider is from the bike you see below, it's real nice toy grade with working front and rear suspension RC RTR that has been discontinued for a few years now.
My bud at the LHS has a couple of cases of these. A simple 5 minute mod to spread his legs for the DX450. Fully pose-able with cloth jump suit and removable helmet.
You get the bike and rider new in box as shown for $47 shipped (Paypal)
The rider is just a bit under the 1/5 scale size which makes him look like a younger teenage rider.
It only comes in yellow. The uniform can be painted over on the yellow to match your bike.
I'll be doing another rider for my other bike after I get the paint.
It's also a great training bike as all the principals are the same, it goes about 10-12 mph.


Some free style riding

airshares

My Feedback: (16)

Ok. Since im gonna give this thing another go id like a rider like that especially if i keep it. My bike is yellow so thay bike is perfect. Let me know how to order from your friend.

mc4798

My Feedback: (8)

I have found this to be true as well.

Airshares, if you do decide its just not 4 you. Let me know and I might be able to take it off your hands.

muck76

i bought the Sparc of ebay for $10 last year. I bet with this bike out now, they may be more..
But it may be worth a look.

microDan

Yep so did eveyone else these have long since dried up. My search on ebay came up empty.
My LHS just happened to have these as NEW OLD STOCK [8D]

muck76

i may have to check mine also.

zo6

My Feedback: (1)

Here are a couple easy mods that are working for me. The outriggers are max 2" from the frame and are bent from 1/8" piano(music) wire and allow max banking for turns but protect cycle sides/bars/rider boots. The rear fender (wheelie) bar is from 3/32 piano wire and is zip tied onto side frames. Both items require no mods to stock bike and are cheap. Notice also that more preload is used on the steering servo saver to help with the tank slappers. Next I think I will replace these stock springs with silicone fuel line and see if the servo will survive.

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

nice looking mods!

turbotb0205

My Feedback: (31)

one thing that hasnt been mentioned "or i missed it" airshares... when you turn with one of these bikes.. first of all the front wheel will turn opposite of conventional thinking... left input on the radio will equal a right wheel movement.. that makes our bikes turn in properly..... along with that you dont drive it like a car.. you drive it like flying an aileron plane turn in.. itll lean down center the steering input and power through the corner... if done correctly the bike will exit the turn standing properly ... or you can give it a bump of opposite to bring it back up quicker if you want

i love RC bikes TTE GPV-1 and this bike will be the next ill thank microdan now for going ahead and trying all the mods and letting us know what works.. its easier to pull it out of the box do the necessary and then run it than to tear it up finding the needed mods!

airshares

My Feedback: (16)

I did play around with turning the bike. I can get it to do nice figure 8s and such. But Turning wasn't my only complaint about the bike. Its one but major complaint is the Forks and way it handles the bumps. Im just not convinced it will do much other than crash and bounce all over the place on a real dirt track. The other complaint is the crash bars suck. One crash and they are broke. So I think if I mod them like seen in this thread that problem will be solved.
I really wish I had the oil filled forks now as I think the bike is really being crippled without these.
Im taking the bike to the track today. Will report back.

airshares

My Feedback: (16)

Drove the bike again today. This time I lost the bolt that holds the rear wheel to the swing arm. Almost lost the wheel too. The front tire came off the rim a couple times as well. I'm getting better at turning but I think the biggest issue I'm having is with the front forks.
I also believe some of my turning issues are due to me driving the bike on hillsides. I need to try some flat ground.

microDan

A little too late but, as with any model all the bolts need to be checked. Even my rear axle bolts come loose[]. Look to see if you lost that special washer spacer. My front chain sprocket also came loose blue locktite is now done. Concerning the front forks, remove the fork top caps and the forks will pullout give the springs an equal stretch of about 3/8" + and wipe the plastic contact shaft with silicone oil. If you haven't already done it while the fork tubes are out just spin them around so the axle is in front. You can do this without removeing the front wheel, remove the caps and do the spring adjustment as above and just turn the forks around and reinstall. Wow never heard of the front tire coming off the rim. You have to give the tire a squeeze at the rim to make sure the tire bead is fully seated in the wheel. I'm glad to see you're giving the bike a chance, I'm sure you'll feel better as you get used to it. Continue having fun

airshares

My Feedback: (16)

Thanks Microdan.
I have a question for you now. Im trying to install the new bolt to hold on the rear wheel. But I need to tighten the chain a little so Im switching the spacer block. Problem is I cant get the hex bolt out of the side with the chain sprocket. It just turns the axle. I tried putting a bolt in the other side but doesn't work. How do I get that other bolt out. I think while its out im going to remove those weights in the gyro.

microDan

You need to put a bolt into both sides and tighten them and then loosen them one at a time with the other bolt holding it until you break it loose. Then take each bolt out using the friction of the other bolt to hold the axle while removing the screw. You can work each side little by little until free enough. I also twist the wheel on the axle to place pressure on the axle to prevent it from spinning freely while doing this.

kochj

Looks like there quite-a-bit of vid on ytube, under anderson M5...

I used to race motocross, and this bike did get me interested....

I had put together a Kyosho Leaning bike, but I didn't have enough time to
get it diled in.... I had shreded the stock gears with my Monster micro motor in like
2-sec's....
Found some nice machined alum gear parts and installed them...

One thing I learned with the road bikes is this......IT MUST BE SMOOTH pavement!....
It can't be the type of pavement that had been RE_done by pouring hot oil
and laying down 1,000 LBs or crushed rock, which then got mechanically pressed into the
old pavement by the cars tires and weight....THis stuff is way to jittery for most
anything.....Unless, there is a BIg difference between 1/8 and 1/5th scale bikes??....

The electric bikes, are WAY less tinkering.....At least you do not have to worry about a
alcohol engine to besides driving.....Pluss, electric seem to be WAY more power potential
anyway....

If I wasn't jobless, I would pick one of these up..