Espenh

hi

i have ordered a hpi mt 2 18ss. i cant wait till this come to my mail i have owned a savage 25 with truckzill kit i think that was awsome.

but now i want to upgrade mine. wat is fitting and what do i need to buy. i need contact with somebody that have done this before ore have a little clue off what is going on

got some links to hop-ops and dealers

http://www.geocities.com/silentgtboy/nmt.htm
http://www.powerlineracing.com/index...S&Category=215
http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/...d=&part_id=709


the firs i want to do is getting a big engine. 21 size or 28 size

in my mind i want this one http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHGU5&P=ML

hehe but this is maybie to big. but biger is better. i want a faster and a stronger car

can somebody please help me with ideas ant tips. and coments

thanks

RallyRed 98

the first thing i would do is get aluminum uprights from new era. the stockers will last about as long as it takes you to get it on a track with any kind of small jump.
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=2631

thestratcat

My Feedback: (12)

my MT2 is basically stock, I haven't had anything break yet.. yesterday consisted of a test drive at the new local off road track and then bashing in my yard at which time I kind of made a small error and jumped a Saturn, the truck made it through all of this with no problem.

the only upgrades I've done is to waterproof the truck, mods to the steering and throttle connections.. other than that all mods have been purely cosmetic..

RallyRed 98

yep the steering is also a good place to start... i picked up a 1000 mAh hump pack which helped a little, but the truck is still very weak when turning left.

Combatcm

My Feedback: (1)

You need ALL hub carriers, the rears, the fronts and the front uprights. Not only are they good for durability, but they also have bushings for the uprights. The stock you can bind the hubs by torquing the hubs screws too tight. The aluminum ones make the steering more precise and with less friction.

Do not get aluminum arms, or bumpers. I've seen a bunch of broken aluminum bumpers at the track.

Shim your diffs. I believe I used 5 or 6 shims. You need to buy more with the kit.

In hot weather the HPI plastic gets very soft and I had my steering ball cups rip right out of the steering linkage, so get the aluminum setup.

Instead of using the stock ball cups, buy RPM cups, the stocks will pop or break easily.

As you run it more and more, sometimes you will hear clicking landing jumps. These are the ring gears skipping and the solution is to get the aluinum tranny cases, or shim the bevels, or both.

I have a low end pipe to wake up the 18SS engine and the ofna hyper 7 125cc tank to last 10+ minutes. I only desire the aluminum gearboxes and the aluminum steering links and that's it, then a new engine.



The 18SS engine has really weak compression, you should consider an OS .18 engine.

Espenh

Hi Thanks for all the coments.

this will be great. i will buy a .21 size ore .28 size engine. dont know if the .28 fits. thinking about the diablo .

i still wait for the car to be in my mail. cant wait to tune it up.

if anybody knows any good online stores pleas replay me.


Thanks

james121

Hi

I have recently purchased a hpi mt2

It was working fine yesterday then stopped. Ever since then I have not been able to start it. it sounds like it just spins and i am not sure if then engine is turning over

can anybody help please

Espenh

you said its just spinning. do you got a roto start?

if so i will check the starter. see if the engine is going round. if so i will check the plug. and maybe switch it with a new one.

take out the plug and try to start it to get all the fule out off the system



hope this is helping.

hope you understands my writing. im terible to write in english.

james121

Hi

I have a roto start

I have emptied the fule from the engine through the plug
What colour does the glow starter have to be when you un do it
I have had mine on charge for about 5 hours and it is bright red in colour

Do you think it is anything to do with the clutch bell the screw at the end has become loose when spinning

thanks

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

Get the OS .18 TZ. Its definately more power then you will ever need in the MT2. It puts out as much power as alot of big blocks do anyway.

If you are dead set on a .21 or .28, theres a guy on here thats done it before. I has pics of his setup in the "Official HPI MT Thread"

thestratcat

My Feedback: (12)

hey man, in addition to the pm's.. make sure your glow starter has a good charge, it should probably be overnight..

the screw on the clutch bell won't effect (or is it affect?) the engine runnning, but it'll leave you some nice tiny parts all over if it comes apart.. take that bolt completely out, put a drop of blue loc-tite on it and re-install, this will make sure that it won't come loose while you are running. Don't use anything other than the blue loc-tite though!! the other stuff will take a torch to remove..

Espenh

hi

thanks .


can you pleas post me the links of the pictures would be nice to se how its looks.

Espenh

do anybody got a product list of what i should upgrade when i switch my engine from .18 to .28

got some answares here but i like to have the product name and where are the cheapest place to buy this things.I remember when i ugraded my savage to a truckzilla the orginal wheels it just got destroyd so i had to buy som bigger wheels. i think i hafto do this om my mt2 when i put my .28 engine on. what fits i difrents size please.




thanks

Espenh

hallo

i have now build my mt2 and started it for my first time today. the second time it went strite to hell
my pullstarter was broked, the spring just jumped of. this is may secont time i have had a pullstarter and i had the same problem the first time. does anyone have a tip on hove to fix it, ore i hafto buy hpi roto start system to fiks the damn problem. i am so angry on my mt2 .

pleas give me som pointers here.

thanks

tum_yeto

Theres a link on the hpi site on how to rebuild the pullstart www.hpiracing.com/ (the instruction link)

bigbodychevy

its not the pullstarts fault its yours. short quick pulls. Your pulling to long and to hard.

Espenh

Thanks , im going to try and rebuld my pull starter, and make shure i only use short pull.

so having a pullstarter should not be a problem?

Espenh

oki

now i have rebuild the pullstarter, it went fine when i first understod how i put it to gether.
but now i have a big problem some i hope somebody will help me with. the big problem is that i cant get the damn car to start. i think i have tried everything. i have switch to a new glow plug, i have tried to reacharge my glow starter. tried to put som fule down the carbinator ore what its called in inglish? i have tied to take of my glowplug putted a little fule down there end put the glow plug inn but it will not start. i have olso tried to take oute the glowplug and pulled the pullstart 5-15 times and put the glow plug back. i have 1 mm opening in my carbinator.

Can somebody please help me

Thanks

Espenh

Hi

i cant still start my engine. i just hawe one ide, does a .28 size engine with Rear exhaust fits the mt2 car

Espenh

Hi

long time

youst want to replay and tell you all how my car is.

now i have upgraded it with a hpi s-n5 engine with roto start, its working wery good. the car goes greate and it strong to. i had to modify the brake and the engine mounts but that wass all.

i post one picture if anyone want i can post some more.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

DO NOT RUN ALLOY! Partially the ones you have listed as they are cast and if you have to have alloy get billet. Unless you want heavy and eye candy the only alloy I would get is the steering knuckles. Let me tell you about alloy it is heavy it does break, pass breakage to the next weakest point, it will bend and cost way more to replace. I have had very little problem with any plastic breaking on mine and I have MANY gallons of run time on it. But if you just have to have alloy go for it and make sure you get billet and NOT CAST.

As far as shock towers they did not break but bent. Plastic gives a little alloy does not it bends. Had an alloy shock tower cost me a differential case. Goes back to passing on the breakage to the next weakest point. All so I race and do not need the extra weight.

Here is a picture of mine years ago where I had a lot of alloy. Ended up costing me a chassis! I rather replace a $2 A arm then a chassis. I all so ran alloy knuckles on my Mini-Z F1 cars and started breaking tie rods so I go alloy tie rods and started striping servo gears. Whet back to plastic as it is easier to replace and cheaper. Run what ever makes you happy.

The first pictures cost me a chassis.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Sorry just noticed this is a OLD thread but good to hear from you.

buggymangp

thats the same reason why i didn`t go for bling bling on
my savage. i`d rather break a plastic a arm and just replace it with plastic.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I agree as I do not have any extra alloy on my Savage either. I have it set up for racing as well as my MT. Hope in about a week when I do my LCG chassis and many other things on my Savage to get the weight down to about 9.5 to 10 pounds. I have it right now down to about 10.5 pounds with the receiver pack in it.

bluemt2g3.0

hey man,
how easy was it to fit the hyper 7 tank?
was it just a case of drilling new holes, or does stuff need moving?