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  1. #1

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    RC10GT / Novarossi M12 Pipes?

    Hi, new to the forum, 2nd post...

    I read through most of the 'Official' thread, but didn't really find what I was looking for. (That thread is spread out over a nine year span...)


    Anyway, I'm dusting off my old RC10GT to run it again.

    It's got a Novarossi M12 in it now, with an I have no idea what kind of pipe. There is no nipple for the fuel line, it just gets shoved in a hole...?

    The PO has it set up for a rear-facing pipe.

    Is the stock #7730 pipe decent? I see the Team Associatied site has a #1772, a #1775, and a #2354. Any of those work for me?

    I'm looking for a torque pipe, and I'd like to keep it in the $20-50 range. I see pipes for $200?! No way...

    Any reccomendations on manifolds? The one I have now is kinda dented up.


    I also have an OS Max 15CV, new in the box. How would that compare to my Novarossi M12? (.15 -vs- .12)


    I have a few other questions, but I'll stop now, before I start rambling...


    Thanks!

    ~Jeff

  2. #2

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    RE: RC10GT / Novarossi M12 Pipes?

    the novarossi has 1.07 hp an the o.s 15 has .067 hp i have a tuned pipe and the hole in the pipe is supposed to be like that there is no nipple so if it fits use it

  3. #3

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    RE: RC10GT / Novarossi M12 Pipes?

    i just bought an o.s cause parts are available and the price couldnt beat it

  4. #4
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    RE: RC10GT / Novarossi M12 Pipes?


    ORIGINAL: JSchubz

    Â*Hi, new to the forum, 2nd post...

    I read through most of the 'Official' thread, but didn't really find what I was looking for. (That thread is spread out over a nine year span...)


    Anyway, I'm dusting off my old RC10GT to run it again.

    It's got a Novarossi M12 in it now, with an I have no idea what kind of pipe. There is no nipple for the fuel line, it just gets shoved in a hole...?

    The PO has it set up for a rear-facing pipe.

    Is the stock #7730 pipe decent? I see the Team Associatied site has a #1772, a #1775, and a #2354. Any of those work for me?

    I'm looking for a torque pipe, and I'd like to keep it in the $20-50 range. I see pipes for $200?! No way...

    Any reccomendations on manifolds? The one I have now is kinda dented up.


    I also have an OS Max 15CV, new in the box. How would that compare to my Novarossi M12? Â* (.15 -vs- .12)


    I have a few other questions, but I'll stop now, before I start rambling...


    Thanks!

    ~JeffÂ*
    The rear facing pipe is likely the MIP stinger, anodized purple by chance?
    And a big hole for the pipe in the rear shocktower?

    This one's not bad for $10 and torque tuned.
    http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/1772/

    Shiny purple for another $5.
    http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7743/

    Get the appropriate manifold for PS or non PS, then then use a dremel or jewlers files to port match it to the gasket because the AE stock headers make a brick wall where the flange meets the engine.

    Don't know anything about the M12 but Nova is higher end than AE, my AE .15 is a very reliable easy to tune engine.
    OS .18 CVR (S) will make it stooopid fast, there are a few different clutch shafts that fit the different engines, is it a black tub or RTR/FT flat blue chassis?

  5. #5
    SLAYERDUDE's Avatar
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    RE: RC10GT / Novarossi M12 Pipes?

    Just saw you other post, a pic tells a thousand words.

  6. #6

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    RE: RC10GT / Novarossi M12 Pipes?

    Sjhm9102, thanks for the engine specs. I had kinda figured that the Novarossi was the better of the two. I did find a piston and sleeve to rebuild it, but I'm really not sure if it is necissary at this point. It seems to be a lil screamer of a motor. Short of disassembling it, is there any way that I can tell if it needs a rebuild? Of what I can see with the manifold off, looks pretty shiny looking, I don't see any obvious scratches. The compression seems good, and there doesn't appear to be any slop in the rod. I bought it used, and have run maybe 3 quarts through it.

    Are there any 'torque-specs' of what the bolts are supposed to be tightened to on these motors, like the head bolts? (I don't know much, if anything about nitro motors...)

    I'm kind of a 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' kind of guy, however I do like to take things apart!


    Slayerdude, about the pipe...Nope, it's not purple, just natural aluminum. The PO made his own front and rear shock towers, out of 1/8" aluminum (??!!) Yes, I am replacing those. Yea, that #1772 is one of the ones I was looking at. The darn shipping is as much as the pipe is!! How can they charge 9 bucks to mail that?

    Ok, stupid newb question...what is PS or non PS?

    I will take some pics tomorrow, but the 'hole' for the exaust in the motor is round, not a 'slot' like I have seen on some motors. Sorry, don't know the right terminology for it.

    It's the FT blue chassis. I got some parts on order from Hobby Town, (RPM front arms, castor blocks, rear suspension mount, some new pivot balls w/RPM cups, and15t and 17t clutch bells) and I won a bid for a rear CF shock tower on Ebay. Missed the matching front by 25 cents! Grr.

    So, as of right now, it is completely disassembled. I'm re-valving and using new oil for the shocks, and tightening up the steering/suspension with new parts. I have questions about the holes -vs- oil weight, but I'll ask that another time...


    Thanks for the replys!

  7. #7

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    RE: RC10GT / Novarossi M12 Pipes?

    Is there any performance difference between rear or side exaust? My manifold is kind of dinged up, and I was thinking of switching it to side exaust with the #1772.

    Hmm, another question... the Novarossi motor exaust faces the side, and the RC10GT manuals are showing the port faces to the rear, with a slot, not a hole ?

    What manifold would I use in a side exaust , round port motor? Maybe that is why it is set up as a rear pipe?

    Let me try this picture thing.....yup, that worked!


    Apparently, this is the Turbo-head model, am I supposed to use turbo plugs? I think I was using OS A5's. Should I be using something different?



    Slayerdude, I'm going to start a different post for all the different RC10GT questions I have for you...lots of them....ok?

    Thanks!
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  8. #8

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    RE: RC10GT / Novarossi M12 Pipes?

    ps an non ps is pullstart or non pullstart

  9. #9

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    RE: RC10GT / Novarossi M12 Pipes?

    Ok, I have a non-PS...I knew it wasn't power steering

    Slayerdude, I've been searching through your 1852 posts ( ! ). I got to around page 14 so far. I see you have three RC10GT's, eh? Cool. I have a couple E-Maxx, and used to have a Savage, but I think the GT is the most fun! It's the only Nitro car I've driven, but it seems wicked fast to me.

    I'm still digging through all my stuff. Today I found my glow plug starter and its charger (yea, I guess I'll need that!) , and some of the original paperwork that came with the Novarossi. Apparently, it has 1.15HP, and winds up to 36,500RPM. Sweet! They are calling it a rear exhaust engine, I guess because it's inline with the crank?

    I am fabbing up a front shock tower to replace the 1/8", 24 gram, aluminum one. I just happened to have some Lexan laying around. It's not quite done, but I'm guessing it will weigh considerably less...

    I'll search around here for more for info, but if I can't find something, I'll let ya know.


    One more quick question, how long should a glow plug typically last if the motor is tuned right? IIRC, I went through alotof them last time I ran it like 2-3 years ago.





  10. #10

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    RE: RC10GT / Novarossi M12 Pipes?

    me too i think the leaner i run the less longer it last cause it turns white and burns out imo maybe some one else can answer that too

  11. #11
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    RE: RC10GT / Novarossi M12 Pipes?


    ORIGINAL: sjhm9102

    me too i think the leaner i run the less longer it last cause it turns white and burns out imo maybe some one else can answer that too
    A tune which is too lean will damage the plug. The white color indicates a lean/hot condition.With a good tune, the plug will not turn white.

    Burning out plugs at a rapid rate can also be caused by a worn out rod (usually)or main bearing.


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