rapsucks_07

by clutchbell & bearings i think 46u and i meant to upgrade the needle bearing thats in the rtr clutchbell

giants17

Oooo, ok, I forgot about that, I was wondering because I didnt think the other bearigs were any different between the ss and rtr. But yes, definately upgrade that bearing.

ddpn42

This might be a stupid question but is it possible to convert the mt2 to 2 wheel drive?

RCCanuck

yes just take out the front dogbone to the diff......but why?

rapsucks_07

dont go 2wd it puts more strain on ur rear diff

46u

My Feedback: (3)

If you look at the SS kit manual and comparing part numbers you can see what all is different between the SS and RTR kit. It is a whole lot more then just the final gears. I do no run the one in the SS manual I run the Race that is all so vented and hardened. The RTR CB is junk and the bearings are not much better. If you read this thread you will see where the RTR CB is two piece and many have had them come apart.

ddpn42

Mostly just curious. I kinda of assumed that it could be done but just did not know what kind of issues it would cause.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I recommend any one going to by a MT2 get the SS kit sell the engine on ebay get the OS 18 CV-RX I do not recommend the RTR as it just has to many weak points and the radio is just BEAR minimum like most RTR. Like I said before go to HPI web site look at the two manuals and parts listings and compare. I just wish HPI made a kit like mine was when I got it that did not come with an engine.

Uncle Vinnie

Hello Guys...

I'm looking into buying a OS 18TZ, however there is 3 types of .18TZ not counting the one that coming out in Sept.
Which one would fit the MT2?????
The only difference I could notice was the length of the crankshaft,
OS 18TZ-T: 13mm
OS 18TZ(p)-T: 29.5mm (sept)
OS 18TZ-TX: 13mm
OS 18TZ(s)-T: 11.6mm

What do you guys recommend?

I was looking towards the OS 18TZ-TX, because it has the recoil starter.

Unless it's possible to install the Stock T15 starter on one of these engines.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

The P is for pilot shaft the S is for the short shaft and you want the one with the standard shaft. You all so have to figure out if you want slide or rotary carburetor. All so get ready to tear drive train up unless you set it up properly. Hope you have the SS kit and not the RTR as you will be closer to having it set up.
Good Luck and have fun.

MastaDizasta

Foams for the win!! Jaco 2.2 for anyone that wants to get some..

boohoo

customer service isnt that good been waiting four weeks to get my diffs back last time i phoned they said they were waiting for parts

RCCanuck

where did you send them??? I can't imagine sending anything overseas to be fixed....heck I can't imagine sending anything out to be fixed....is this a warranty issue?

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I do not know about in the UK but here in the states the very few times in the past 7 plus years they have all ways been GREAT! If all you are going to have them do is put the stock RTR pot metal finale gears in get ready to replace them [X(]

catbutt

Indeed, the CB and bearing are SS standard, but not the spur. Yes, I am running the 'bones as well, but CVDs are on the wishlist, which at this point is short, so they may be next up. The 'bones have served me well thus far though, haven't popped one off yet, (fingers crossed) so I figured I would run em and get the CVDs at a later point. The tranny (if you can call it that) has both drives cups upgraded to the hardened part, front and rear. As far as the diff drive cups, I havent upgraded those because I am unsure which ones to get. The 18ss manual gives a part #86312, which are these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJEY9&P=Z . I know that the nut that threads onto the end, will not fit in my diff with the shimming I have done there. The original with the e-clip fastener is what is required for my setup. I found these posted somewhere http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXWC17&P=K , and they look promising, but are for the RS4 street version. The space inside the diff is so tight I could not get the spring from the HPI diff kit to fit in the rear, so I have only the one in the front. If anyone can confirm that the second link I posted will work, I'll get those as well as the CVDs with my next order, then my previous statement about having an SS standard drive-train will be accurate[>:]


On another note, has anyone used this http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Nitro-MT-2-A...QQcmdZViewItem , it looks like an interesting item, perhaps the last step to a bulletproof diff setup. If anyone has any feedback on this, please let me know.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I am all most sure the first link you have is correct but the picture is wrong. If you read the description it is correct as well as the OEM part number. I all so think the ones in the second link are too small. Nova makes very good products but I have ever used their diff cups. One other thing I had to do is epoxy the metal wheel hexes in to the wheels. I keep striping my wheels. One thing I am going to look in to one day is see if I can make the diffs work with 4 gears.

MastaDizasta

Does anyone know where I can Get Yeah Racing aluminum Front ARMS, I crashed really really bad and need new front ones..

mark_y

Finally i've been able to fire up my 18 CV-RX... Whoooooo!!!!! It runs for a few second then quits before I even remove the glow plug igniter. Does this mean I should close the needle valve a fraction??? Thanks for you advise!!!

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Yes try leaning it out a little.

mark_y

Thanks.... BTW has anyone tried using the roto start system from the T-15 with the OS 18???? Does it work????

boohoo

sent to mirage rc the company that deals with hpi warranty in uk it was warranty diffs kept eating the gears even after been shimmed by guy i know who races them they are supposed to be upgrading them to ss spec i will wait and see

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I do not think the backing plate with the gears in it will work off the T15 on the OS. Good chance they make on that will work.

catbutt

You can use the roto backplate from the T-15, with minor work. First you need to use the one-way bearing from the OS pull-start, as the rear out-drive shaft on the OS is larger than it's counterpart in the T-15. It is nice that the OD of both bearings are the same, I don't know if they are all universal in that regard, I have not seen enough car engines to know. At any rate they are interchangeable in this case and thats all that matters here. The backplate itself is a tight fit but with the proper aligning of the bolts and holes it can me made to fit with a little effort. I have the same engine and setup on mine and it works well, so far that is...starts right away every time.


You will love the CV-RX, BTW, I just broke mine in yesterday and it's AWESOME! I ran it for the first time today at the track my buddies and I built at the beach dunes to test it out- there isn't even a comparison between the CV-RX and the T-15, its like night and day. Besides the huge performance gain, the OS runs significantly cooler than the hot-blooded T-15 ever did. I couldn't be happier, my MT2 finally has the right powerplant to compliment its agility. I hope yours is as trouble free as mine has been, the break-in was hassle free, as well as the tuning. Good luck, I know you'll be happy with it

rapsucks_07

check out this backplate looks alot stronger than the hpi backplate [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGFK2&P=7]tigerdrive[/link] if u read it it says it comes with oneway bearing im not sure. I got a hpi backplate before I heard about the tigerdrive. If i could do it again I would get the tiger drive

46u

My Feedback: (3)

There you go! Once again I stand corrected but never used a Roto starter just a pull and starter box.