nitro-rob

The button is the one that holds the glow plug in. He had a big leak through the stripped threads and lost a lot of power so the truck wouldn't move. Its a far off possibility but it happened to my buddy. So if the spur clutch is gripping and the clutch looks fine maybe the problem is the flywheel is loose?

Do the wheels turn when the truck is off the ground?

KeithjV

Never apologize for asking questions. Everyone here loves to help out.
Try turning the wheels in opposite directions. Do they turn smoothly?
Put the truck on the ground and roll it back and forth. Do all the shafts turn when you roll it?

Straick

Any suggestions on a pipe that will perform best in low to mid range RPM of the HPI G3.0? The pipe that mine has right now seems to be more of a high end pipe, and I unfortunately spend most of my time in the low to mid RPM range. Thanks.

KeithjV

THS or a Buku maybe? You said you have a trinity pipe already right?

Straick

The Trinity is on my Revo. The pipe on my MT2 is the aluminum one, that I think is stock.
I thought of a buku pipe, but can't quite foot the bill for it(if I could, there would be one on my revo already). Never have heard of THS though, I'll have to look.

fernandorussell

Could anyone tell where I can find the Tsais nitro devil pipe for the mt2. I've searched everywhere with no result...

thanks.

KeithjV

I would say google and ebay would be your best bet.

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

Get the THS rear pipe. I have it on my MT2 with an OS .18 an it works really good. I did notice a difference in performance when I installed it. I replaced a CVec pipe similar to the Buku and I didn't think the CVec was that great.

Check ou the video link on the Buku pipe, it speaks for itself.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UdFs...om=PL&index=40

KeithjV

Hey Joe have you been out to Center Moriches yet?
Im running a buku on my TZ mainly because I got an excellent price on it. It performs well. I cant imagine getting any more power out of that engine then I am now.

fernandorussell

keith those were my first options and I got nothing... Anyone here bought one recently??? If yes, were???
I have a OS 18cv-rx and i've heard its the best pipe for that engine>?>
Any other opinions welcome...

thanks.

KeithjV

How about here? http://rchub.com/Merchant2/merchant....tegory_Code=ND

This one is in the UK but it says they ship internationally
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NIB-TSAIS-NITR...20176002r14341

Just found this one. This is a local shop for me. Excellent service from these guys.
http://xtremehobbyshop.com/shop/inde...oducts_id=1423

Straick7

Has anyone tried a Traxxas Pipe on their MT2 with the G3.0? I have a Resonator from my revo around and am wondering if it will give a boost to the low end. Thanks.

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

I live 20-30 minutes from Center Moriches but I do not know of any good places out there to run the cars. I would like to see how the pipe runs with the TZ in person and compare it to my rear THS pipe I have. Like I said I had the CVec pipe (which is the same concept the Buku) and didn't think it was so great. I did notice the difference in low/mid/high end power when I installed the THS pipe.

KeithjV

There is a track in Center Moriches now. Here is a link to the info http://lihobbyinfo.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=398. The track has been completely reconfigured since those pictures were taken though. The guy that runs the track is Sean. Hes done a great job with it. You should definitely take a ride out there.
Where do you normally run? Im in Islip.
I have a CVEC pipe on my other truck with an LRP Z.18. Its definitely lacking some bottom end. I think the buku was refined enough to make up for the shortcomings of the CVEC.

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

I live in Bay Shore, 5 minutes from you. I never knew there was a track out there, I always went to the track in Farmingdale [link]http://www.raceway.com/[/link]Long Island Raceway

I will have to check out the track out there one of these days.

KeithjV

Have you been to Freeman Ave in Islip by the cookie factory? There is a dirt field there thats pretty good.

eminentguitar

I found that the polished hpi pipe was really REALLY GREAT. . . . . . . . . . . . for a paper weight........ lol You cant really compare any pipe to the stock blue revo pipe bored out because that stock pipe is the BEST pipe on the tz I have read it in tested it. Not saying that its GODS PIPE for every rc but the tz loves it. Every engine and driver has there own tastes in pipes. I have read alot about the buku pipes being very good but they come with a nice price and some extra care to keep them clean. Hope that helps a bit. Still not seeing any videos of these tz's guys..... If mine was running I would put some up asap. I busted all of my rc's in the past 2 weeks....... now the weather is in the -20's ish so no more bashing for me for a few months.

e30nate

i just got all the bearings and stuff to rebuild my engine, so hopefully by tomorrow i will have my truck back together for the next somewhat clear day. supposed to be raining here all week.

eminentguitar

i wish it was just raining here.... it was -32 this morning -47 with the wind

mojavemonster

Custom Build Help!!!

I have a project I'm working on that is based off a mt-2 with HD diff gears. I'd like to drop a brushless/lipo package in there and was thinking of the Novak HV system. Tranny is single speed slipper. Want to runn 3s - 4s.

You guys think the gears can handle it? Got any pics of your E-conversions. Thanks for help

SyCo_VeNoM

I converted a MT1 to a brushed motor (was 35 now its 27t) I had laying around. Essentially its the same to convert a MT2 to brushless seeing their basically the same truck and same motor size.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9206008 I've made a few minor changes like replacing the cheap rear brace I had with quarter inch delrin rods to remove flex and make it way stronger. I also made it look a little more like a professional job by cleaning up some of the rough spots.

I've read in other forums of people running 2s & 3s on a MT2 convert and they said it handled it fine(they had the original MT2 diff gears not the hardened). If you would have asked this yesterday I could have given you a few links to MT2 conversions seeing I just got around to deleted the bookmarks I had last night .

and before anyone asks(that hasn't seen it) YES that is a Traxxas Stampede chassis bolted to it, and is being used as a battery tray(had a few ppl ask what that was in the electric forum ).

highlandgrip

I wanted to check to see if this would be the right place to post a conversion of an MT2 to a short course truck, or should I start a new thread under the "RC Nitro Stadium Truck" main page?
thanks

mojavemonster

That's exactly what I am doing but I am making mine completelly scale

highlandgrip

So is that a "yes" this is a good place to post then? [8D]
I'm trying to do a "inexpensive" conversion, mainly using a few replacement parts and self fabricated.

highlandgrip

I’ve always liked the look of the short course/baja race trucks, and with the short course trucks being the recent rage, I’ve decided to convert my MT2 into one. I’ll list what I’ve done/purchased so far and update this thread if any of you are interested or would like to do the same.

I took my truck down the LHS and tried on a few bodies, tire/wheel combos, and measured up some front and rear bumpers. I decided to go with the HPI Blitz wheel/tire combo since they’ll fit if you use the 12mm Blitz hex nut. Out of the different bodies I tried, the SC8 fit the best based on the stock wheelbase of the truck. I was able to get the wheels/tires for $29.99, the hex nuts for $5.98 and the body for $25 off ebay (I know, I should support my LHS, but their price on the wheels/tires alone were over $50!). Wheels/tires arrived yesterday, the body today, and I’m still waiting on the hex nuts.

In the first pic (hope these come out in order, still trying to figure out the upload game), the body is set on the truck with the stock wheel/tire set up. Obviously it doesn’t look right. Next pic is with the Blitz tire/wheel combo. It looks a little better but the wheelbase just doesn’t look quite right. After doing some measuring, I was able to see that if I extended the wheelbase by 1.25”, the tires would center up in the fender openings. So, how was this going to happen? I sat there turning the truck around, looking at it from different angles and decided that the easiest thing to do would be to relocated the rear dif assembly back 1.25”, but the question was, how would I make up the difference in the rear main shaft length?

After I pulled the rear assembly off, I laid the driveshaft on the table and I was playing around with the suspension when one of the dogbones fell out. I set it next to the rear shaft and decided to measure it, 1.25” longer!! Problem solved! I was able to put the dogbone in and mock-up the location for the rear dif assembly. I flipped the stock hex nuts and slid them on the axle so the new wheels would seat and I could check out how it sat. That’s the next pic, and the wheels line up very nicely in the fender openings.
The last pic of the bodies is for comparison, and as you can see, this is going to make the MT2 look quite a bit larger than the stock look.

So my next task is to fabricate a new chassis. I’m still up in the air on that trying to decide if I’m going to go with aluminum or carbon fiber (colored maybe). The last pic that you see is an example of a roll cage (made for a Slash) that I may use to fabricate for the MT2. I will also be fabricating front and rear bumper with skid plates.

If you have an interest, comments, or suggestions on this post, let me know and I’ll update the progress. It won’t be too fast, cause I’m broke and I’ll be making most of it. [&o]

EDIT: So seeing how the pics laid out, the sequence is off. The first pic should be the third to the right, and then go to the left for two and three.