unclezesta

My Feedback: (1)

yeah i decided to just sand down the inside a little and run em until i see any bigger issues result.

SyCo_VeNoM

If it becomes an issue you could get HPI part #Z593 (2 long screws off the MT1) to replace that part, and screw your shocks into the arm at the holes prior to the hub.

That is actually how I have mine setup

unclezesta

My Feedback: (1)

oh ok, nice. thanks man.

had my first few track runs today! the o.s. 18 has plenty of power. i was tuning it in a baseball diamond / big grass field adjacent to the track, and there is a road running along side that has a speed limit of 55mph, and i was consistently going as fast or faster than cars on the road. no guarantee how fast they were driving, but thats still a good sign.

on the track i was able to figure out all of the jumps and obstacles fairly quickly. im still not fast by any measure but im getting the hang of things. i broke the front right c hub when i hit a barrier not going that fast. it looks like there was a bubble in the plastic where it broke, so i might bug hpi for free replacement parts...


dirty:

shane_from_the_bayou

Any one ever had problems breaking clutch springs. I broke to back to back and i don't know why i'm running stock gearing and a stock nitro star g3.0 engine.  My slipper clutch was somewhat loose both times and it happen before and after i shimmed my diffs.    I am running mashers but i can't see that being the problem as others on here have run them with no problems.

hockeyman48

I have broken two clutch springs back to back.

unclezesta

My Feedback: (1)

does anyone on here run the aluminum c hubs, steering knuckles, and rear hubs from new era models? it looks like a good upgrade for what i want to do with the truck, namely increase durability and set it up for the race track.

lightning35

i just bought a g3.0 for my mt1, got the right mount and exhaust for it, but from what i read i have to replace the flywheel and clutchbell as well. i already plan on putting in the mt2 slipper clutch and mt2 diffs. but what else do i need?

Ruger-777

I have the aluminum c hubs, steering knuckles, and rear hubs from new era and dont think they are that great, The first problem I had was with the c hubs, The c hubs wasnt machined enough to allow the knuckles to swing freely but all I had to do was take a little bit of material off the inside edges so the cup end of the axle would clear the inside edges of the c hub. Its hard to explaine but ifyoulook at the inside of the hub you can see where they beveled or tapered the the metal so the axle can move back and forth, thats where it needs to be dremeled out more. The second problem I had was the topof the c hubwhere the upper turnbuckle attaches was rubbing the fins or webbing on the inside of the wheel, also fixedby removing a little materialforclearing. And last but not least the hole for thea armpin in the rear carriersis to bigcausing both the rear wheels to have quite a bit of wobble, and I havet been able to fix that so I havent been running it much in fear that the holes will egg out from the wobble. so if any one has a solution for that I would love to hear it, until then I think i'llrun the plastic rear hubs.

KeithjV

How about some shrink tubing on the pins and then reinsert them? It should take up some of the play.

unclezesta

My Feedback: (1)

oh wow, thanks for that. i think ill steer clear of those then. that's really disappointing, i was hoping that new era's parts where much higher quality. it all looks so good and well priced online. oh well, ill just have to learn to drive better, haha. im actually hoping my snapped c hub was caused by bad plastic because there is a very large vacancy on the inside right were it cracked. heres a picture:

SyCo_VeNoM

use the GPM knuckles, and chubs on mine with no issues

Well knuckles on my MT2 the c-hub, and knuckle combo is on my other RS4 thing (rally made from MT1. MT2, and on-road RS4 parts) but they work fine

unclezesta

My Feedback: (1)

wow, their stuff definitely looks to be of higher quality than new era's parts. but what's with them not having prices on their website? you run any other aluminum? and do you race?

Jetdktr

My Feedback: (21)

brand new HPI MT with roto start , yesterday every thing was fine while doing break-in. This afternoon, roto start spins ,engine does not . have had this truck one day and now no turn over of engine with roto start. Batteries fresh and fully charged. Anyone else had this problem? Help!!!

KeithjV

Its your one way bearing inside the plastic case on the back of the engine. You have to be careful with the roto starts. If the engine hydo locks even the slightlest bit the roto start can crack the bearing. There could also be oil on the shaft. Take the plastic cover off, note the direction the bearing is on the shaft. Than check the bearing for cracks or excessive oil.
Post back how you make out.
Good luck

Jetdktr

My Feedback: (21)

Found the problem: the spring that pushes out the engagement pin ( hpi #1433 ) for the roto start was broken. I pulled the back cover plate off the motor and the pin was laying inside. I only found a part of the spring. LHS is holding one for me to pick up later. I will flush motor out to get any residual spring pieces.

KeithjV

The spring shouldnt be able to get into the engine from the backplate. If it did when the engine was running the piston and sleeve would be shot.

Jetdktr

My Feedback: (21)

The spring is actually inside thr cover plate The spring actually goes onto a hole in the back of the crankshaft on the arm that holds the piston rod (wish I had a picture) It was a bear to everything back together, needed needle point fingers, but the truck is running great

SLAYERDUDE

HUGE thanks to SycoVenom!!!
The info you helped me out with for a friend led to me getting the engine mount and getting my MT1 going!
Waiting on the #72001 pilot steering shafts and slap a RX in and go..
G3.0 is mounted up and ready to rock.[8D]



I also picked up some Trepadors while I was on ebay so I might try and run nitro SCT 4X4 with it...

unclezesta

My Feedback: (1)

looks like a properly stocked work area. if you're too good for busch lite, you're too good for me.

SyCo_VeNoM

np
just happy to know what I learned can help others with similar issues

I really should brush my MT2 off and go run it, Think I ran it once last year, and that ended up in a broken a-arm [:@]
I kinda forget about it since I got my 1/8th scale jammin's, and savages.

unclezesta

My Feedback: (1)

just ordered some gpm aluminum. getting the steering knuckles in silver and the c-hubs in purple. hoping that looks good, not to mention strengthens up my front end.

Uncle Vinnie

Selling my Hpi MT2 for $240 shipping included.
Here's a list of mods done to it.

Hpi Super Chassis 2.5mm (73948)
Universal dog bones Front/Back (86301/86302)
Heavy duty final gear set Front/Back (86336)
Heavy duty cup joint (86314/86315)
Stock springs plus Purple springs front/back
100cc optional fuel tank (87189)
Scorch 6 spoke wheels (3094) with Ground Assault tires (4411) use 2-3 times
Stock wheels with Proline MOAB tires
Upgraded aluminum turnbucle with RPM heavy duty rod ends
GT1 body unpainted (7776)
15 and 16 clutch bell with 49 spur for single speed tranny
2-speed tranny (86038)
Pinion gear to go with 2-speed 13/16
Spur gears for 2-speed - 41, 43, 46, 47, 49, 52
Savage air cleaner (87198)
THS exaust and header
OS .18TZ engine

Stock servos and radio and any other extra parts I might have also included

unclezesta

My Feedback: (1)

anybody have experience with hpi vs. gpm aluminum threaded shocks? the gpm's are a lot cheaper so im wondering if the hpi's are better.

Ruger-777

Well.. I snapped another a-arm the other day and decided to send RPM an e-mail to see if there was any plans for the MT2 in there future and thought you guys might like to see what they wrote back:

ME:
Hello, Just wondering if there were any plans in the works for the hpi MT2? There is a thread on rcuniverse.com (Official HPI MT2 Thread) that is over 840 pages long and full of MT2 owners who would love to have the option of having RPM f/r a-arms. The stock plastic ones are no good for some one who likes to bash, I have broken two sets myself and wasn't even that hard at it, I have also herd alot of people say that the lower screw that holds the steeringknuckle in place always strips out, probably another issue due to inferior plastics. I did not personally experience this because I replaced mine with aluminum because there was no other option, If RPM had been an option I would have gone with those, heck I own 2 Savages a rustler and T-Maxx which all have RPM lower a-arms and I also have various other RPM parts on all of them. Anyway... it's starting to sound like I'm sucking up so just keep up the good work and +1 for the HPI MT2 parts!!!

RPM:
Thank you for your confidence in RPM products. We try our best to make the most rugged and durable products and at reasonable prices and it is always a pleasure to hear from end users such as yourself that appreciate the efforts we place into each and every part we build. Thank you for noticing!
Thank you for sending us your RPM product suggestions for a-arms and carriers for the HPI MT2 as well. Unfortunately, there aren't any plans for either of those parts just yet. However, I will be sure to forward your suggestions on to our product development department, although I'm afraid I have no idea if, nor when we may be able to produce them, if at all. Please continue to be patient with us and with a little luck, hopefully we'll have something for you in the not too distant future.
Take care and thank you for your interest and support of RPM products. If you have any other questions or comments, please feel free to send us another e-mail.

Seems like a pre written response but it is a response no the less and It was sent the next day.

unclezesta

My Feedback: (1)

i think its a little to specific to be pre written, its just got that corporate email ring to it. your message was really well written though, thats probably as good as it can get for trying to convince them in only one message. i think its the number of interested people they want to see, and including that bit about the thread was definitely smart.