catbutt

I have a question about shimming the diffs, maybe someone here can answer it for me. I recently lost my rear final and the front is half gone, the heavy duty replacements are on the way. I have read about shimming them, and have seen the diagrams from HPI on the subject. Heres the question: HPI shows the diff shimmed from between the outside bearing and the final drive gear, which to me seems counterintuitive. The idea is to remove the excess play and have the gears mesh better, but shimming from this area moves the planet gear FURTHER from the other, smaller planet gears. Now I'm no expert, but it seems if one wanted the gears to mesh better, wouldn't you shim from between the final gear and the planet gear, moving the planet gear CLOSER to the other planet gears, thus improving the mesh and removing the play? The same question about the drive pinion to the final gear, which HPI says shim from the outside, again moving the pinion AWAY from the final gear. I find this all confusing, but as I am not a mechanic I really have no idea, it just seems to make sense to me to move to gears toward one another as opposed to away. I hope someone knows what I'm talking about and can help illuminate this for me. Failing that, I plan on calling HPI for an explanation and possible replacement of my faulty diff gears. Thanks for all the help and this great forum!

PS. couldn't find the diagram for the final shimming, just the diff, so here it is:

grbxtony

wow thanks guys! i didn't think about it flipping but yeah awesome tires....its between the mashers and the 18ss tires.

rapsucks_07

When i got mine i screwed up the SS tires quick from running on the street got some street tires and moabs and that was that. I think the masher might work better than moabs they look wider. So maybe u wont have a fliping problem like i did. If u do just lower the suspension

adz06

took my mt2 out for the first time in like a month as ive been on holiday i damaged my crystals [:@] so i got out my spare specktrum transmitter and finally read the manual to figure out how to use the 3 modlel memory an wolla!! took it out for a bash in my forest park with my friend and done some pretty good jumping and racing it seems to actually be more responive witj the spekky than the hpi radio gear. and by the end of the day i had 0 breakages and i beat my friends in a drag race and he was ruuning a hong nor x1rc pro with some .26 engine. my we lrpz16s with 14 t and 52 was bit low on acceleration but took him before 100 ft .

grbxtony

wow i might be late to the press party but i just saw the mt2 g3.0 and its pointless! i think if you really wanted that much power done the right way the 18ss kit is the way to go.

RCCanuck

well I aquired 2 MT2's in a trade..1 is an 18ss which I promptly replaced with an OS18 the other is an older model that is in need of some help....The 18ss runs awesome with the OS in it....I really like the 4wd in a stadium truck.I'm used to 2 wheel drive stadium trucks...
Can anyone suggest a better pipe and header over the stock one?

rapsucks_07

ths and tsais pipes both good

grbxtony

anything besides a rear pipe?

giants17

has anyone else had the problem of the header coming loose from the engine, it has happened to me twice now, and im worried it will make the engine run lean and ruin it, although last time it happened i checked the temp, and it wasnt high. I have been using thread lock btw.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Yes people have had problems with them coming loose. When I ran a side exhaust I got long bolts and had them stick through the header flange and put a nut on the end. One of them is a little tricky but it can be done.

giants17

Thats a good idea! I think i may have nuts thatll work too.

giants17

Has anyone ever had this happen to them... I thought it was odd. Im glad it didnt hurt my servo

giants17

Tsais does have 2 different side pipes for the rs4 models...
[link=http://tsais.com/products/exhaust/E1018HR.html]http://tsais.com/products/exhaust/E1018HR.html[/link]
[link=http://tsais.com/products/exhaust/E1018H.html]http://tsais.com/products/exhaust/E1018H.html[/link]
The ths pipe is [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX4&P=SM]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX4&P=SM[/link]

crohbober

wow that looks like a first

grbxtony

wow thanks! i think the side pipes are better! i'll get one soon!

RCCanuck

oh my goodness I love this truck....it is a rocket with the OS 18 in it.......I am using an old Airtronics radio and 2 standard servos.....I am now going to put a Spektrum reciever for it and take it to the track.....orginally I just thought I'd bash with it but it is performing so well I am going to take it to my local track and see how it does.

crohbober

hey guys whats a good servo
im thinking of replacing them because the stock ones suck

evo165

HI guys... Any idea between the LRP z18r and the OS 18 cv-rx power? The only different i can ask myself is that the LRP have the roto back plate for roto start. Where the OS can only have pull start or the starter box start.

Most of all, my question is, which are more powerful engine as compare with the above two? A million thanks if you could give some advises and comments.

Jackedman

My Feedback: (2)

I have the THS pipe and it's great i love it for the price its great

46u

My Feedback: (3)

If I am not mistaken you can get a Roto starter for the OS. But the LRP Z18R is a good engine just like most or all SH made engines, as that is who makes the LRP line of engines and many others.

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

I always used blue thread lock on the header blots and I never had that problem. You have to be very liberal with the thread lock. I heard of other people using red thread lock but I think you will have a lot of trouble getting out the bolts when you need to remove them.

grbxtony

can the new h2 clear body fit on the mt2 and still bash without breaking the body posts??

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Keep in mind most thread locks or Loctite you use heat to break the bond when loosening a stubborn screw that will not come out easily. I guess it all depends how hot the header gets. Did not work for me and is why I use a long bolt with a nut on the end. I would never use red Loctite on any thing on a RC vehicle and rarely use blue. I mostly use purple as if you check it is made for small fasteners. Purple is a lot easier to unscrew and like I said if you have a problem getting something out with Loctite put some heat on it. I use a small pinpoint butane torch.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Most bodies unless factory bodies you have to make them fit and put the holes for the body post where you need them. Some times you have to do other modifications as well. The body you are talking about is it 1/10 or 1/8 scale?

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

It is true you use heat to loosen a stubborn bolt that has been thread locked but you would be using a blow torch which creates A LOT MORE HEAT then a header can generate, and if your exhaust header is getting that hot you have a much bigger problem then getting out a stuck bolt.

I have never had a problem with any header bolts coming loose on me when I use blue thread lock and I have been doing this for a long time. I have an old MT1 that I built in 2003 some time with an OS .18 that I used blue thread lock on the header bolts. I use to drive that truck every single day it was not raining out and the header bolts have never come loose, they are still tight as ever to this day. The truck is still in my basement on the shelf waiting for new 2-speed gears.