SerpentCT4S

My Feedback: (1)

Dont waste your money. The are only coated with a carbon fiber sticker. They are no lighter than stock ones.

MPevine11

what are some lightweight parts i can replace the stock parts with to make it lighter?

MPevine11

http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-5522X-Ch...item4aa543149b



is this alot lighter then the stock shassis?

jatobob25

OK im kinda ne to the nitro circuit however not to rc i got a jato 3.3 and im wanting a good offroad wheel tire combo and wanting to beef up the suspension and suggestion would be a great help.

quietnas1

Follow the advise on the link. I researched all those engines before I had decided on the .21TM. It was awhile back and that engine is still going strong. If you want to know what header I used I will link my rebuild thread here when I find it.

quietnas1

Here is the link of the rebuild thread that I promised.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_83...tm.htm#8385526

JattoMan3.3

Hi guys,

its been a long time since ive posted on here, mainly because ive not had the time to even drive my car.

Right the last time i drove my jato it ended up (after a good hour of bashing) taking a tumble craching the top plate at the screw fixing point and ripping the EZ start motor out of its housing. I know not major damage, i can replace those and change to a pullstart to shed some weight. This isnt my problem.... its my stupidity and lazyness that has got me worried because i took it home and boxed it away without any after run procedure.

In case your wondering, that was a year ago and i am thinking that if after i replace the necessary broken parts that i wont get the 3.3 running again. This car has been run less than 10 times since 2008 when i bought it new to last year when i f*cked it.

If i do need a replacement can anyone suggest a suitable yet slightly cheaper replacement bearing in mind that im not really looking to add any extra power to it.

Any maintenance tips on how to refurbish my 3.3 would be great, please mention any necessary tools that i would benefit from though.

Thanks guys

p.s. feel free to hurl some abuse for treating such an engine with such little respect, I promise i wont do it again.

lilbrett

You SHOULD be able to get the 3.3 running again, as long as it wasn't messed up before you stored it. I've worked on quite a few cars for my LHS and some sat for as long as 4 years. A Revo sat for 4 yrs with 1/3 to 1/2 tank of fueland all I had to do was change the fuel lines flush the tank and degum the engine & carb. If I were you I'd pull the engine spray some WD-40 in the plug hole and see if you can turn the flywheel. If it doesn't turn over I'dpull the head and carb and look into the engine andsee if it's really gummedup, if it is tear it down and clean it, if not look and see what is stopping it from turning over.Then put some fresh fuel in the tank, maybe 1/4 tank just enough to slosh around, if the tank still looks dirty after doing this you can either clean it with hot water and soap or degreaser (Simple Green or something equal), or buy a new tank.If you do the water route you have to make sure it dries completely before using it again, you could even slosh a little fuel around and dump it out just to be sure there is no water left in it. You can probably get away with just spraying WD-40 into the carb and working the throttle or opening it by hand to work the WD-40 through it, if the engine was really gummed up you may want to pull the needles to really clean it out. Like I said, with the Revo I didn't have to pull the carb or the head, the engine turned over pretty easy so after cleaning the tank I replaced the lines and put WD-40 through the carb and put a new glow plug in, it fired up and I ran a couple tanks through it nice and easy almost like breaking it in again. Hope this helps, I see you posted this 4 days ago but maybe thiss will help you.

mattster1971

What are your experiences with dealing with Traxxas on bad engines?  I purchased a Jato new in January from my LHS and its been running fine.  The other day on a run it was acting funny, then all the sudden it wouldn't stay on and it had fuel etc., very rough running.  As it turns out the connecting rod had broken off under the piston and beat the crap out of the understand of the piston.  I did not overheat the engine.  I didn't over rev the engine, rarely ever hitting the second gear as I don't have the space.  Do you think this was a manufacturing defect?  How much of a difficult time do you think Traxxas is going to give me? or what will they replace?  Mind you I haven't even run a full gallon through the damn thing.

mattster1971

drugOFspeed

Hey guys, wow great to see an “Official Jato” tread. So I got the jato on feb 17. (yeah I love the jato, I remember the date I bought it. Lol). So about a week into it, I had radio trouble range was horrible and the steering servo would reverse twice a day, by it self. so traxxas took care of it and sent me a new one. Id say about 3 weeks after that, I cracked connecting rod. I read a few treads on the subject and assumed traxxas would just charge me $110. So I decided to get a connecting rod by “Davis”. He’s out of TN and makes thicker rods. And I also purchased a piston and sleeve (the bottom of the piston was cracked along w/ rod). I broke the engine in again and noticed that the motor just didn’t have the power I knew it should. Called traxxas, I had no problems with customer care, he told me to send him what I had and he would send me a new one. he did suggest that next time I should have just done the exchange program from the beginning. I get the new motor in the mail, break it in again, and also got a clutch by MIP.
Now I do have a few things that I experience with my jato and wanted to see if anyone else experiences this, and if so, I welcome advice.

1 In the manual, it says that if the engine is too lean, it will make a clattering or popping noise while decelerating. My question is, is the “claddering” they mention different from the noise that is made when the clutch shoes are still engaged while slowing down? I bought a 3-aluminum shoe clutch. Two of spring actually heated itself into the shoe and was stuck. Im assumed those shoes were bad and bought the MIP.

2 I had a lot of play in my steering. I have considered buying the aluminum steering column thinking that its rigidness will eliminate the wiggle left to right while servo is still.

3 My LHS doesn’t carry 33% fuel. They only have 30%. I have attached my phone to the front and ran a GPS speedometer app and top speed has been 58. Does the extra 3% of nitro really push out another 7 mph or are there other adjustments I need to make? Im thinking maybe a different spur gear..a smaller one? I also bought size Speed Hawgs 22 rims and tires as apposed to 28. Will tire size affect my top speed? I would like to have a drag set up.

That’s an 1/8 scale wing btw. It REALLY helps with keeping it straight! Great truck! Great customer care! Any suggestions would be great.

1QwkSport2.5r

I put a gps on my Jato yesterday and got 56mph flat running 20/12 homebrew fuel, some unknown glow plug and 22/58 gearing on a stock 3.3 and dual chamber resonator pipe. Engine is finally getting broke in with maybe a gallon through it. Next up is 24/54 gears.

Sixamp

Hello im new to the site. Ive been out of the RC game for awhile and just got a mint condition Jato with a radio and ez start on ebay for $210. Is a nice looking truck . It has rpm front and rear blue Aarms. I wanted to know what i should start upgrading?

Rac3rX

10% lighter & 40% stronger

Rac3rX

Lil Photoshoot with my RTR Jato 3.3 Im making this one a Budget Build. Upgrading only when needed, using the least aftermarket parts & extracting the most out of the 3.3. I have a Ground Up Jato being built that getting no expense spared, modifying/hoping up everything to Show Truck level, but its going to get driven.

















& The custom Truck













Here is a video of the Budget Bullet having some fun

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4hYG9KS1NI[/youtube]

1QwkSport2.5r

Is New Era the only company offering a big-block conversion for the Jato or are there other kits available? My 3.3 isnt anywhere close to wore out, but I would like to get the BB conversion kit and an engine over the winter so when the 3.3 goes south I can have the parts on-hand to have it ready for bash season next year.

nastyboys727

hot racing has a longer chassie i have that one but i have the new era mount

1QwkSport2.5r

I'm only interested in the big block mount. I'm keeping the stock chassis.

Buttonmanb

Hey did you guys see the Jato funny car conversion over on traxxas web site. Theres picks in there of a nitro jato with a funny car body on it. Looks pretty mean. Heres the link http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...93#post5292293

nastyboys727

well there u go bub

waterdogar

Hello everyone! My sons and i are getting into the the hobby (santa gave them the stampede 2wd electric) and i was wondering iss the jato really for expert only or can a beginner learn from it. Thanks Adrian

rcphanatik

It's been awhile since I had my Jato, but it is quite the handful. If you'd really like one, go for one with a 2.5 engine. The TRX 3.3 is a pain to keep running, and it's honestly too fast for its own good.

Personally, I'd go for an electric, now that I've experienced a bit of the two. The brushless motors are not only just as fast as the nitro engines, but they're easier to maintain, as well.

If you're thinking of getting into nitros, though, it'd be a good idea to stick to Traxxas for a first one. They're quite user-friendly.

Anyone else care to comment?

waterdogar

Ok but the only thing so far is that you lose power as you run them. Are the better batteries different and/or im i being to picky and what do you recomend. I was looking at the rustler vxl. Thanks again Adrian

rcphanatik

actually, that is a very good point. And YES, better batteries are the key. If you buy the VXL, you buy a car that is already LiPo ready. I am somewhat inexperienced in my own usage of LiPos, but that may be because I just began using them roughly a week ago. I used to own the Rustler XL-5 (brushed, slower), and I ran a seven-cell NiMH battery it it. Don't get me wrong, it was fast, but it had very short run times, often puttering to a stop at around 12-13 minutes. Now I have a 1/18th scale (yes that throws it off a bit) on a LiPo battery, and I can literally run it for the same amount of time that it needs to charge.

LiPo batteries, as a rule, are also quite different in the way that their power declines; NiMH kind of steadily fall after a while. LiPos essentially sit at the same voltage until they are next to empty, giving you much longer run times and more consistency in power. Yes, they are more expensive, but here is the place to go: http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl5000-2s1p-40c-2222.html (I own a SkyLiPothey are GREAT for the price) and also (for the charger): http://www.hobbypartz.com/26p-e4-charger.html (I own this one specifically, and it's the cheapest that you'll find, easy to use, and is very reliable). All you need now is a couple of soldered connectors and you're good to go!

I'll be here all day!

waterdogar

Thank you!!!! Ok one more ? What if i get a jato and put a 2.5 engine on it to learn with then when it goes out put back on Would it work or cost to much? Thanks adrian