R_man_5k

My Feedback: (14)

As for the single or dual chamber being better ... well it is up to you. where do you want the power added? single chamber is best for low end. dual chamber adds in the mid to high RPM. I prefer the dual since the jato is so much over powered on the low end anyway.

I use a pull start on my basher with the 3.3
my other jato uses a RB V.12 - it is bump start only.

personaly I dont like the EZ start or any of that stuff. just one more battery to charge... IMO...

Woodmandan2

does anyone know an answer for the post 1527?
dan

Nick2618

I am kind of a noob but, is there any advantages to running the dish wheels. Why not just get reg rims?

KRO

You cannot do this because the JATO's wheel bearings are in the wheel not the steering knuckle , they will work on the back with the 12mm hex . As far as I know nobody makes an adapter kit to use them on the front ....

angus67

dish wheels are lighter, and not sure but stronger? I still use the ez start. have had no problems, only replaced oneway baering once, and it was because when I cleaned it up, and used too high pressure from compressor and blew out a couple of needle bearrings!! for got to turn down the regulator! I had it high so I could use air tools on my real car. (120psi) I dont mind the extra wheight. but I do use glow stick, instead of blue wire. wand battery last lot longer, and the motor turns over faster.
DAN DAN yeah, dont know about the hpi wheels, but i'm right there with ya about the breaking servo ears! I took a small thin peice of steel, bout 1/2" by 1/4", drilled two holes for the screws, and no more broken cases.

Skunkworx

[quote]ORIGINAL: KRO


Ok , some of this is not true ....

Thanks for the correction KRO!, it was a bit of a mouthful to explain. The main point was explaining how the clutch reacts to different tensions.
You do run the risk of it still slipping if it is set too loose, even at high speeds, but this is usually a result of the lock-nut backing off the shaft.

Woodmandan2

Ok so i think i will use some sort of wheels in the back,. Mabey I will just have agigator wheels all round, but i dont like the crome because i will imeadeately scrach it when i run in dirt, so dish wheels would not scrach as easy, and if they do they will still look nice. Does anyone know where i could get a 12MM adapteer?
Thanks

Dan

EDIT: Now i see that proline will sell the 4 set of wabash wheels with adapters for 22 Dollaz, i think i may just get this. Does anyone know how i could paint it black, the new color theme for my truck is only going to be black and red, with only two stickers on it saying JATO. I may if i have the money I would get an extra set of tires that are road rages, but i think that they would not be good in my conditions, as i run on the street, but the street i run on is full of dust from construction. Thanks

RODNEYC864

DYE THEM LIKE THESE http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=IMGP0031.jpg

KRO

Yep just remove the chrome paint and they will take the dye very well ...

Woodmandan2

What is the best method of removing the crome paint? Paint Remover? and where can i get wheel dye?
Thanks
Dan

angus67

rodney---I notice you have the plate support on your jato. Does it really stop the top plate from breaking?

KRO

I used "Aircraft Paint Stripper" it comes in an airisol can and you can get it at any hardware store , just spray it on wait a few then wipe the paint off , use an old tooth brush to get into the little nooks and crannies of the rim , then rinse and dry .

Then buy some RIT cloths dye , powdered works the best IMO . Put some water in a pan , enough too cover the wheels , then add the dye and heat it till its about 180-200 deg. Place ALL 4 WHEELS into the dye and let them soak . The longer they sit in the dye the darker the color . Take them out of the dye and rinse them in cold water .

angus67 , I have the New Era top plate brace and it really stiffens up the upper chassis , the lower chassis brace is also a great hop up for the stock JATO chassis ....

alvinm

May be a stupid question but did you remove the tires or did you strip the paint with it on?

KRO

You need to have the tires off the rims to strip and dye them .

jag09

im thinking about taking out my 2.5r because im having so many problems with it. what are some reliable engines for bashing with low-end? i want to get rid of the ez-start, roll bar, etc. to shave so weight. With the engine i would also like it to be drill start capable if possible. any sugguestions?

angus67

when I replaced my 2.5 with a 3.3, I took out the ez and put in the pull. but since the motor wasnt broke in yet, it was a pain in the *****. so I put the ez back on. I only bash with buddies, and not looking for high speed, in fact, my tranny stopped shifting about a 1/2 gallon ago. needless to say, if your ez start is maintained and works good, I kept mine, but I use a glow stick instead of the blue wire.
As for todays carnage, I spent 3 hrs hunting down bulkheads and front shock towers, struggled with sripped allen heads, and stipped plastic holes, only to have a set of concrete stairs jump out infront of my jato at 40mph, five minutes into the fun. broke both bulkheads, topplate, front shock tower, bumper. but dang if those rpm arms are strong! I hit the stairs at an angle, about 35-40mph, and still good!!
Does any one have any ideas how to thread the holes before useing screwws? I thought about using a tap set, but am unsure what thread pitch to get. Oh, btw, those stainless steel screw kits suk. the biggest waste of money ever! I always strip 'em, does any one sell the regular steel screw kits?
Today I ordered a E-savage bug body, my lhs had one sitting out, so I eyeballed it to another jato. looks dang close. Looks like I just need some trimming on the nose. I think crazyotto had a bug boddy, but his looked kinda big. the savaage bug looks dead on. has any one put this body on their jato? Is it as close as it seems to fittng right, and without much effort? thx 134

jag09

like i have problems keeping a tune and stuff with my 2.5r

Nick2618

I have a pull starter on my jato 3.3 and it starts really easy. You can probaly put the pull start back on and have no problem now that its broken in.

Nick2618

I have done a couple of searches and read around a quater of this thread and can not find how to change the diff oil. If i change the oil to something thick would it prevent one wheel spinning really fast and blooning up? If some one could tell me how and why to change the diff oil to something thicker it would help. Thanks

Skunkworx

Angus You can use an Xacto knife or pointy knife to bevel out the plastic. Put the tip into the hole and spin it around like a drill. (They make a reeming tool which is easier, but it's cheaper to use the knife/razor if you already have one)

nick2618 Replacing the oil will help a LOT!!! I put 50,000wt in mine and it made a tremendous difference. I would recommend going to 70K or 100Kwt to lock the wheels in even better. Also go up to 50wt oil for your shocks and crank down the springs (or get stiffer springs) and it will keep it planted on it's feet even in dirt. (super drifting abilities if you get it dialed in right!!!)

To replace the oil;
1. Remove the diff, take out the 4 screws on the one side, then take off the plate and remove the seal on the edge. ***REPLACE the seal!!!*** do NOT re-use no matter how good it looks! Besides the seal kit is only 3-5 bucks anyways.

2. take out the spider gears and spray them with nitro-solve or Simple Green to get ALL the oil/grease out, then dry.

3. Put the gears back into the diff case.

4. Pour a little oil at a time into the case (it pours like cold syrup, so have patience!). When you get about halfway full, spin the gears SLOWLY to get the oil in between the gears. (Make sure you don't get any bubbles in the oil) Once the oil settles fill the rest up to about 1/8" below the lip of the case.

5. Put the other side of the case back on (make sure you have the seal on) and cross-tighten the screws down a little at a time (like tightening lug nuts on a real car) And you're done!

***There might be a little oil that squeezes by the seal or the screw holes, just use a paper towel to wipe up the excess. Once it sits for a while, it shouldn't bleed anymore and you can put your tranny back together. If some oil gets into the gears it won't hurt them so you don't have to get it entirely perfect.

(FYI: XTM diff oil and Associated shock oil)

RODNEYC864

HEY ANGUS67, IT DOES HELP FROM BREAKING TOP PLATES PLUS IT HELPS COMBINED WITH THE FLAT PACK IN CTR TO MIN. WHEELIES!!

Nick2618

Well i am going to go done to my lhs today adn just ask for something around 75k and see what brands he has. But i gotta wash me real car fist. lol I will let you all know how it went.

Thanks for the info

Nick

Nick2618

Well I went to my lhs and got 100k diff thats what they had. Now when i run it and it starts to do a donut both wheels seem to spin equal instead of one blooning way up. Also i put a new set of tires on it road rages. They actually turn the truck unlike the ones i was running. lol.

My heart did stop twice thou while i was running my truck. I jumped one of the speed bumps where i live and got about 7 ft off the ground. It did a flip and then landed on all fours with no throttle adjustment from me. I was not excepting the jump trying to go in middle of the bumps. I just froze while it was in the air dreading the landing. Then after that i was running and a car came around a corner and almost flattened my truck. After that i put it away not a good day for me.

Also on the back of the trans case above the bumped there seems to be 2 screw holes with a label in the middle that says "Max" then under it an arrow pointing two ways."<->" Whats that for?

jag09

has anyone else been having consistant problems of there 2.5r not holding a tune? because everytime i got to take it out for a run i have to change the tuning for it to start-up and sometimes ill go through a glow plug just trying to get it started.

osuwins

hey nick the rubber plug is where you adjust the timeing for second gear... if you dont want your tires balooning, use duct tape to line the inside of your tire