nitro monkey

I was wondering which hop-ups i should get for my Rusty....

I want some hop-ups to make me go faster and make my truck lighter but durable

I just want somebody to give me some ideas...


Thanks
Ryan

Skullbasher

Well, A pullstart will help make your truck MUCH lighter. You could also think about changing your gearing. I have found up to a 24t CB and a spur as low as 64t.

You could get carbon fiber parts from RD Racing Products which would make it stronger withought adding the weight of aluminum.

You can increase your nitro content to 30%

nitro monkey

i already have a pulstart...

and ill look in to buying that spur and clutch bell


Thanks
Ryan

unclezesta

My Feedback: (1)

find good tires for your surface. it makes a surprisingly large difference. Thats mostly for accerleration though, top speed stays there.

dannthenitroman

gear it lower not taller, a bigger spur gear or smaller cb will make it much quicker off the line and off the corners too. but first swap to duratrax nitro evader st shocks.

Dann

Wide Open

i agree with uncle zesta, mostly because i was a witness to his tires turning into slicks and his rims shattering. after that he vowed never to use the traxxas tires or rims again.

Midget

why not get a bigger engien

dannthenitroman

the 2.5 is way fast enouh but the biggest downfall of the humble rusty is the shocks. and getting new tyres applies to all nitro stadiums.

Dann

calvord

what would you recommend for shocks on the rustler?

dannthenitroman

duratrax (yes i did say duratrax) alloy hard anodised shocks for electric evader st pro. they are bottom filling shocks and are awesome.

Dann

calvord

man now i am asking alot do you by chance know a part number so i can get the right thing also does anyone have any suggestions for front ride hieght adjustments on the rusty there are no factory mounting positions to lower it

dannthenitroman

so here goes....

DTXC9004 are the rear shocks on my car, they are identical in every way to the anodished ones except cheaper and they dont have brown anodising.

DTXC9003 are the identical but shorter front shocks, they are great and awesomely smoothy. both of these shocks are prebuilt with 3 hole pistons and oil of about 25 weight in them, you will need a suitable spring with a rate 1.5 for the front as the stock yellow (rate 3) are too hard, i used shumacher springs for mine but this part will do ( DTXC9232 ) . these are bottom filling shocks and are vastly different to rebuild, so you will need to buy these spare parts bags for them (shock part set) DTXC9068 and (shock seal set) DTXC9056. The spare parts are useful and the shock seals are diferent to any others and if you break these then no others will go in there.

To mount these you will either need to make something up or you can put fuel tube over the standard mounting screws (the hole in the top of the shocks are larger than the standard screws and the fuel tube fills the gap and deletes the play) and put the shocks on these.

The setup that i have is 30 weight shock oil all round with the standard traxxas pistons in the back (they are 2 hole instead of 3) with the threaded rear shocks wound so that the rear arms are level, i have the 1.5 rate springs on the front and to lower the front what you need to do is take apart the shock and put around 10mm of fuel tube onto the shock shaft (this stops the piston from lowering all the way to the bottom of the shock and there for sitting the car lower, because when the piston lowers the shock gets longer, i just reread through this and need to clarify that the tube is inside of the shock with the oil) the front arms are level after you do this.

Then you need to move the battery up the front of the car to give the front end more weight and therefor more grip.

hope this helps!

Dann

dannthenitroman

is that all you needed to know?

Dann

calvord

got a bag of parts and on my way down under to put this thing together, j/k thanks for the info dan i recently added the shocks and a crowd pleazer body to my rusty it is starting to look to good to go bashin next i am going to switch to the front receiver pack, also was wondering does anyone have a failsafe that gives readouts to a remote display like on your receiver??????

dannthenitroman

LOL, yeh i actually have a nitro sport ( at more than rusty stock specs) and i often refer to it as a rusty, theyre so similar that i can do this kinda legitamatly, so if any other nitro sport owners are on here ill give you a tip, what you can do is take off your top chassis deck and get your standard reciever battery holder and put it directly in front of the fuel tank and then put the top part of the chassis deck on, this secures it down. then get a dremmel and cut a small hole for the switch (because it no longer reaches the back shock tower) and mount it all up, this keeps the C of G very low whil still giving the much needed weight on he front.

did you like the shocks? i love them, i think theyre a great choice for the rusty.

Dann

calvord

the shocks are working great especially after moving the battery pack to the front helped the steering alot now if i could just find a good tire for the track i have dirt hawgs they are great if they track is freshly watered but they are horrible on loose dusty surface, alaso been tinkering with gearing for the track cant seem to find a happy medium on gears i want more acceleration i dont need all the top speed any suggestions would be great, THanks

All The Way

this should help

Tires:
Front:
Proline Blade M3 Good on hard packed
Proline The Edge R3 works good in the loose and hard packed
Losi Red Directionals same as above.....also depends how you mount them
Losi 8 Rib hard pack
Losi 4 Rib need more time on these
Rear:
Proline Square Fuzzie T M3 hard packed
Proline Hole Shot T M2, R3 hard packed to slight loose clay
Proline Bow Tie T M2 hard packed to loose
Proline Evil Twin - Truck R3 hard packed, Blue Groove
Proline Snake Eyes M3 lots of forward and side bite on loose conditions
Proline Gladiator 2 M3 lots of forward but lacks side bite, good med loose tire
Proline LugNut M3 good in slight loose with hard pack under
Proline Pro-97 Step Pin M3 same as above, M3 is to soft....pins burn off after 2 races
Losi IFMAR STUD good with little dust hard packed
Losi IFMAR-Pin hard packed
Losi Step-Pin Red, Silver best off road tire i used all year...constant, good in loose
Losi Taper-Pin Pink Hard packed Blue groove....tire for CRCRC
Panther Stud Good in loose lacks forward bite in real loose
Panther Step Pins i think they suck
Proline Super Square only find on ebay...no longer made

esch

would an exhuast make a difference on the 2.5?

dannthenitroman

yeh if youve got no exhaust, then you put one on it will be heaps better

nuh stick with the stock one , id say, and save your money to buy a better engine when the time comes.

Dann

forrest411

What engine would you suggest? I have Rustler 2.5 that needs a rebuild. Do you know what I good drop in motor that would be faster then the 2.5