LordEvader

Run time tripled with this baby mounted in there!

thecatofulthar

that tank seems pretty sweet

LordEvader

It's actually for a Traxxas T-Maxx. I got tired of replacing the crappy stock tank for the Evader.

stumpjumper1280

I have a nitro evader st and a losi 8 1/8 scale buggy I recently put traxxas gtr shocks on my losi and put my stock losi shocks on my evader. It rides like a dream and will do whatever I want it to. I was just wondering if anyone else has done this.

The_Shark

anyone know if the metal diff gear stops the case of "pebble diff"
the most recent diff is holding up so far, but this is the last plastic one. also anyone know if evader EXT-2 rims/tires will work?

thecatofulthar

The metal gear is nice i kept destroying plastic ones upgraded and no prob since.

The_Shark

i just modded the vertex motor in my evader, i havent tried it yet, but i think im going to need another diff gear soon, if you know what i mean.

stumpjumper1280

I'm just about to throw both of my evaders away and buy a jato I'm tired of rebuilding the diffs and am ready to go to something with a real diff in it I used to love my evader till the first time I had to work on it now I have done nothing but work on it and still can't get it quite right. Theres just too many variables I'm going to make the switch to the jato.

The_Shark

bah! just get a metal diff gear, carbide balls and you should be good to go.

your not alone, i just tore threw 4 diff gears but its finally right. the trick is to not have it too tight, or too loose, and make sure the slipper is set to slip before the trans does, you can do this by holding the wheels and spinning the spur, get the slipper as tight as you can without causing the trans to turn (with tires held) before it slipps.
also break it in doing figure 8's for almost a tank.

the evader uses a REAL diff, all the high end models use them such as the rc10gt and Losi, the jato is just a bevel, its durable, but lacks proformance.

thecatofulthar

Ive got two evaders a savage and a t maxx gotta say the evaders are my favorite once you get the metal diff gear the only thing you really ever will have go out is the spur gear or a cv shaft and ive had both go out on my other rc's if you want a jato either sell your evader and buy one or keep the evader and buy one but believe me their not bad rc's.

The_Shark

yeah, that modded engine i just did really kicked it in the pants, cant really drive it because another futaba s3003 crapped out on me, this is a horrible servo, thank goodness it was a freebie with a controller.

shredlife

Hey man I have an old evader and I have recently started rebuilding. What motor besides the O.S. will fit? How about some HPI products such as the T or G 3.0 those appear to have the same measurements. Or has anyone else done a engine swap on this vehicle. Thanks -TIM

mastaof420

hey i got a question somebody might be able to answer. I had the stock differential on mine melt the center of the plastic gear out from having the bolt too loose. Ibought the differential repair kit from tower hobbies. Now when i put the trans back together the bolt/keyed nut just doesn't screw together close enough. It puts tension on the differential itself but the head of the allen bolt and the keyed nut itself dont sit far enough into the cups for the axles to sit correctly. In order to get it back together and running i had to grind a touch off the end of the axles and adjust the rear suspension arms. Now the back wheels have an insane amount of positive camber and it makes the truck drive irratically. The old differential that came in the truck when I bought it, is the stock one, and the fitting that holds the nylock nut is plastic. With the new rebuild kit the fitting is metal, and doesn't seem to sit as far into the cup as needed. Here is a link to the rebuild i bought. But after a lot of driving with it rebuilt it just doesn't seem to be breaking in. Ican tighten that bolt til its about to snap and the diff still makes the sqealing noise on acceleration. Am Idoing something wrong with the rebuild or what? Ieven tried removing the plastic spacer bushing and it still doesn't give the axles enough room in the cups to not have positive camber.

thecatofulthar

take a pic you've probably put somthing together wrong, and the link is missing for the rebuild kit.

mastaof420

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMF0&P=7
heres the link
its the metal collar with the ears that holds the nut in place
it just seems like its too big
and i dont have the old one to put back in
I have got it back together and I've been running it this way for a while, but under heavy acceleration
it slips really bad and squeals loudly
and no matter how much i tighten it, it seems to loosen up on its own
i was considering using blue locktite
but the car still has like 8-10 deg of positive camber, cuz the axles don't go in enough

thecatofulthar

take it apart and make sure all the balls are where they should be and that you didint accidently leave one of the old washers inside the diff or somthing.

mastaof420

ya i already did that a few times
i counted out all the pieces out
made sure they were in the right order
Istill have the stock diagram that came with the truck
but the stock diagram shows less pieces than the rebuild kit
so I even removed the 1/8" plastic bushing and it still wouldn't go in far enough

mastaof420

i found out what it was.... my instructions show the cups for the axles with the one that has the pin side on the right.
And the one that takes the bearing inside it on the left.  But when i assemble it the axles wont fold in enough.  So I reversed
them and it fits fine now.  But i already grooved the diff plates pretty bad so it needs a rebuild anyways.  I still cant get the truck
to move yet.  I cranked the diff down as hard as possible and loctited the bolt, let it sit for a few then took it for a drive.  It went
about 10 feet then it revs up and the diff just squeals. 

dicko

Back at the beginning of this thread I wrote a how on setting up the diff & slipper. It was also noted back there that the manual is wrong with the diff cups.

there is a lot of info on this ST in the first few pages of this thread which will answer a lot of questions about the NEST.

mastaof420

i just got a drill start kit for it last night and a new diff rebuild kit for a spare
and i got a power-hd 1201mg servo for my throttle.   With the re-gearing
and the 6.5" tires its goes sooo fast that when trying to slow down the servo
just doesn't put the squeeze on the brakes good enough.  And hitting stuff
at high speed cuz the brakes aren't enough just sucks and usually breaks things.
All my servos are now plasti dipped so i can rip it in the snow and it goes good as
hell with scoop and blade tires.  Hopefully this servo does the trick for the brakes

shredlife

Question? What are you guys reccomending for spur and bell tooth. IM looking to put a new motor in and want to get that high end punch. thanks

ts99ad

I have an older Evader.  it got bashed, landed hard on the front wheel.  Bulkhead smashed, shock bent and the shock broke off from the A-arm(I think this is also referred to dogbone).  I am not sure what all that I have to replace, I will order on-line so I want to get everything in one shot.  I know I need a new bulkhead and front shocks, but do I need to replace the A-arm as well.

Thanks in advance.
TS

mastaof420

if you want it to have a lot more top end use the evader buggy parts
use the 56 tooth spur gear and the 17 tooth bellmouth.
I found parts on tower hobbies just by searchin 32 pitch gears
currently i have a 22 tooth bell and 48 tooth spur gear and 6" tires
it makes it soo fast that the brakes arent enough to stop it

acurariders1325

Anyone know an answer to this?

acurariders1325

Any other engines fit inside the Evader? The stock one is discountinued.