Mxracer45

Whats up guys, i just ordered my Nitro Evader ST off of ebay for 130.00 . Pretty sick deal.

Its got a big ass aftermarket cooling aluminum cooling head, and titanium tie rods(how good of an upgrade are these?)

Anyways , all she needs is fuel. Im going to be racing , and bashing pretty hard with it. How vulnerable are they, and how fast are they compared to lets say a Nrustler or X-Cellerator ( my friends trucks ).

How good are the aftermarket aluminum parts for the evader. My friend has all of the aluminum upgrades for the ELECTRIC evader, will they fit the nitro as well? Hope they do, cause hes giving me all of em for like 20 bux! Including shock towers, a-arms, and a few other pieces. I think bulkheads.

In the traxxas speed chart of their nitros, it included a xxxnt, rc10gt, and an evader. The evader was clocked a 37.xx something mph , compared to the 50 mph out of the nrustler and x-c. Would this pipe add some top end to the evader, without losings its good grunt and acceleration? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEAR8&P=K

Thanks alot in advanced , my main question is about the electric/nitro parts, if there compatible or not!!

Please help me? []

Snipin_Willy

The DTX .18 in the stock evader has grunt, but not alot of top end rpms. Replacing the ST stock spur gear and clutch bell with a BX set will greatly help the top speed out and you wont suffer much in the area of acceleration. That pipe is a popular pipe for ST's, but it's not the only performance pipe out there. IMO, towerhobbies carries a poor selection of performance pipes, and by that I mean that there are alot that can be found on the net.
I replaced the stock DTX .18 engine with a fantom '05 FR12. I get more power, more speed, longer run times, and can still pull the front end up. I still use the stock pipe and don't plan to get a better one any time soon because racing season is almost over and I don't feel like dishing out $30-$60 for one.

Mxracer45

^ Thanks alot bro.

Anyone got an answer to my electric/nitro compatible question?

Snipin_Willy

I think nearly everything should be compatible cept the right rear a-arm, and maybe the rear shock tower.

dicko

if you can get a hold of the EP manual you'll be able to compare part numbers & find out what bits are the same & what are different

Mxracer45

Question for gearing on nitro evader.

I was just wondering what was the best spur gear to get me 40+ mph , but i still want that great acceleration and torque.

Should i get a different spur gear? Please suggest one And different pipe? Please suggestion one


Thanks alot

cookie monster

read the last page they talk all about it

gerwen

A spur gear won't get you to 40. You can get the BX spur and clutch bell, and it may get you close on a perfect day with a perfect tune.

For honest high speed action, the only option i have seen with the stock motor is [link=http://www.dynotech-racing.com/partsSearch.php?term=evader]this clutch bell[/link], which will allow you to stick on a big (20T+) spur and really go to town.

cookie monster

has any one put t maxx shocks on their evader? if so have you had any sucess

brownstone101

hay guys i was wondering??? im moving to oregon and i just found out there is snow on the ground and i dont think my bow ties up front and my dirt works in back is the best setup for snow i saw tweeks setup and i kinda like them. that so these were the setups i was thinking

mashers2k: cause it will last its durable and preaty good tread for light snow and can use all year round and better clearince
or
any of [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDT92&P=0]these[/link] or [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDT93&P=0]these any of this idea for front[/link]
and rear
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDT99&P=0]these[/link]
but those would be for just snow mashers will will dig into the veary top layer but it might loose grip instead of digging in to the deaper stuff and having a preaty good power behind it and throwing snow[>:][>:]
so i just want to know your ideas
and i know but i like these rims
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEWZ9&P=Z
i saw it was it comes with adapters will this work on the evader they look sick on any ST
juse tell me if those will work

brownstone101

any one lol? im mooving realy soon and should probly get them before i move dono when i will beable to get them up there and there snow allready up there

Shmeal

Where are you moving to in Oregon?

Mac8008

something is wrong with my tranny. What's the best way to open it up so I can see what's going on? Does the tranny have to be removed from the chassis?

David D

Yup you take out all the screws that hold the rearend to the chassis, then lift it off then you should be able to get it from there.

Mac8008

thanks! I just figured it myself. My diff balls are all screwed up[&o]

Mac8008

I have another question. Did anyone ever have any trouble removing the bearings off the top shaft in the trans? Mine seem like there stuck on there.

dicko

yep they are very difficult to get off. i gently tapped mine off using a pair of plyers closed above the bearing & tapped down on it. it took a while & the bearing was stuffed by the time it was off. i replaced it & used a very little bit of grease when i put the new one on.

brownstone101

uh i really need this answered i got the tire part down but Will those rims do the job???? those are hexed but it comes with adapters i think any one can help
thanks

dicko

your better off getting a proline or similar rim that is a direct fit, as for tires, get the paddles or chains on the rear & buy the dubro skis for the front. check out the snow vid on slap ma fro for a gt with the skis on. either of those 2 spiked tires will hook up well on loose dirt grass or snow, but skis are better & look insane aswell.

outwheelin

Sorry to change the subject, but I have a question that I just can't figure out, and can't seem to find an answer to. On the kingpin, just under the ball part , there are spacers (washers). What effect do these "washers" have on the truck if some are removed or added? Also what is this adjustment called? Thank you in advanced for any answers.

simay

I was running my evader st this morning, and I noticed that the idle rpms were really high, higher than they used to be before this run. When I had the throttle at idle and picked the rear end up, the wheels would spin up quite a lot, and the engine sounded like it gained 3-5 hundred rpms. I checked the idle screw, and adjusted it to the lowest rpm setting and the opening looked close to 1 mm. That had no apparent effect, same symptoms as before.

I am afraid I will burn up my clutch if i cant fix the idle rpms, as the truck will start after I stop it with the brakes and add no throttle.

Any suggestions you have that could help me to remedy this problem?

dicko

outwheelin,

the spacers adjust the centre of gravity of your truck, by moving them forward or back you can adjust the amount of traction you get. if you are just hacking don't nother messing with them, you won't notice any difference, if you are racing you can use them to get slightly more traction on corners.

simay,

check you fuel line for any tiny cracks or pinpoint holes. if it is cracked replace it, air can suck in the holes & lean out the mix causing your low end to run lean. if you haven't adjusted the low speed needle try replacing the fuel and compression line before trying to tune it. if it still revs high after you've replaced the line, you need to wind adjust your LSN out, do this in small increments. there are plenty of tuning guides on line which will run through tuning an engine in. there used to be a good one on RC action.

simay

dicko, thanks for your advise, but i dont think it would be any of those, though i havnt checked the lines, but i will double check. there are one or two bubbles, but i think those are from the vibration. for some reason, i think it is inside the engine, but i want some advise/make sure it isnt something i can fix before i send the engine in to duratrax.

the truck has run great for 8 or so months and i have had no trouble tuning it. my truck still runs just fine, except for the high idle speed. the high end and low end seem fine, and i still have no trouble starting it.

i will try winding out (richen) my low speed next time i run it, but its other actions seem as though it could be leaned a little bit more.

thanks for your help

dicko

i replace my fuel lines after every 4 Litres of fuel which i think is roughly about every gallon. it does crack around the ends, they are very hard to see, but they do have an affect. it's a cheap thing to do before you send the engine in. i'd also check the carb to make sure you haven't sucked any dirt up the fuel line & have a blockage in the needle housing. do you run a fuel filter? if you haven't changed the needle settings & it is doing this i'd look for what is increasing the air or restricting the fuel flow into the engine.

outwheelin

Dicko,
Thank you for your reply but, either you misunderstood me or I am misunderstanding you. The washers I'm talking about are on the kingpin right under the ball that the outer end of the camber link hooks to, next to the front tires. I can't move them (the washers) forward or backward, I can only remove some or add some.
Maybe I'm wrong but I think you are talking about the spacers on the back wheels to adjust the wheelbase.