*~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
I run the stock silver spring up front and green at the back, but I use 40wt oil, 1 thick spacer for the front and 2 in the back so the rear kinda sack down a tiny bit as well.
#1452
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
#1453
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: ben805
Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: R/C Lightweight
You said it best : ''something's gotta give.'' I think there's too much risk, not enough reward involved with running a steel spur. If your motor mount screws come loose, you could really trash the clutch bell, or diff, or perhaps even the entire tranny itself. I'd rather have a plastic gear that simply strips out and only be out 5 bucks and no further damage.
ORIGINAL: ben805
Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
Damn I have to check what oil I went with again lol But I have blue's in the front and Greens in the rear. The rear sags a little lower than the front and the front is slight above even. I was saying I think I am having steering issues or just getting squirly....Those are two different issues front and rear....But do you think I should run greens in the front as well? Are the blue's pushing more weight to the rear and not allowing my front end to stay planted over bumps? I am yet to run this at one of our better tracks however.
K223
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: K223
True....Thought about the steel gears but so far my mesh is perfect and no signs of wear at all. Even with a hot motor and you really never get dead traction on the track anyway when you gun it. If you play around in the grass or mud, then you might want to consider it. Not to mention the plastic is less rotating mass to turn, less for your motor to have to work against. Not that there is a shortage of power here lol
Damn I have to check what oil I went with again lol But I have blue's in the front and Greens in the rear. The rear sags a little lower than the front and the front is slight above even. I was saying I think I am having steering issues or just getting squirly....Those are two different issues front and rear....But do you think I should run greens in the front as well? Are the blue's pushing more weight to the rear and not allowing my front end to stay planted over bumps? I am yet to run this at one of our better tracks however.
K223
ORIGINAL: R/C Lightweight
You said it best : ''something's gotta give.'' I think there's too much risk, not enough reward involved with running a steel spur. If your motor mount screws come loose, you could really trash the clutch bell, or diff, or perhaps even the entire tranny itself. I'd rather have a plastic gear that simply strips out and only be out 5 bucks and no further damage.
ORIGINAL: ben805
Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
Damn I have to check what oil I went with again lol But I have blue's in the front and Greens in the rear. The rear sags a little lower than the front and the front is slight above even. I was saying I think I am having steering issues or just getting squirly....Those are two different issues front and rear....But do you think I should run greens in the front as well? Are the blue's pushing more weight to the rear and not allowing my front end to stay planted over bumps? I am yet to run this at one of our better tracks however.
K223
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
I have seen some racer carried a couple sets of springs with them so they could swap them out on the spot depending on the tracks, these springs aren't super expensive so if money allow get a few and play with them to see what suit the track best..
As for the steel spur gear, yea I'm just going to scratch the idea, I have yet to strip my spur gear and if it ever blew up it's relatively cheap to replace, don't really feel like melting the tranny. LOL
As for the steel spur gear, yea I'm just going to scratch the idea, I have yet to strip my spur gear and if it ever blew up it's relatively cheap to replace, don't really feel like melting the tranny. LOL
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
I hope you guys don't mind but I have been kinda eves-dropping. I have been running off-road R/C since the first RC10 GT's came out.Had one of the first in Chattanogga.I have been away from the hobby for about seven years due to poor health but I am starting to get back now. I was really thrown for a loop when i read that 1/10 trucks are a dead class!!! For crap sakes that what got nitro started. I agree,you do really have to know your stuff to sucessfully campaign a 1/10 off-road.To get started back I thought a 1/8 buggy would be easier to start with.Seems to be but I really miss that insane,barely controllabled power to weight ratio of a GT with an OS motor. Bought a CEN C-1 RTR buggy because it was a little less expensive than an all out buggy.Wish I had never seen that piece of crap. Quality control is non-existant as is their customer service.The best thing about it is the FM radio that came with it.LCD screen,tons of adjustability,ten model memory.At least I have a good radio when i get my next RC 10 GT.I would like to find an early model with a tub chassis just for old times sake. If their are things i have forgotten I hope it is okay to hit you guys up for tips and tricks. Later and have a good week-end.
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: R/C Lightweight
Sorry K223, I meant to say that I was running silver fronts and green rears (stock setup). I didn't realize I lumped the spring and oil weight together in my earlier post. Is your track rutted out pretty bad? If so, a lighter oil will help your truck track smooth through the rough stuff, but if the jumps are big you might encounter chassis slap and the truck bottoming out. It's a delicate balance that can certainly vary from track to track. Not to mention the shock angle adjustments and piston selection variables. You could always stick with heavy oil and increase piston hole size to try to smooth it out as well. It's quite a game to find that perfect setup that works for you and what suits your driving style best.
ORIGINAL: K223
True....Thought about the steel gears but so far my mesh is perfect and no signs of wear at all. Even with a hot motor and you really never get dead traction on the track anyway when you gun it. If you play around in the grass or mud, then you might want to consider it. Not to mention the plastic is less rotating mass to turn, less for your motor to have to work against. Not that there is a shortage of power here lol
Damn I have to check what oil I went with again lol But I have blue's in the front and Greens in the rear. The rear sags a little lower than the front and the front is slight above even. I was saying I think I am having steering issues or just getting squirly....Those are two different issues front and rear....But do you think I should run greens in the front as well? Are the blue's pushing more weight to the rear and not allowing my front end to stay planted over bumps? I am yet to run this at one of our better tracks however.
K223
ORIGINAL: R/C Lightweight
You said it best : ''something's gotta give.'' I think there's too much risk, not enough reward involved with running a steel spur. If your motor mount screws come loose, you could really trash the clutch bell, or diff, or perhaps even the entire tranny itself. I'd rather have a plastic gear that simply strips out and only be out 5 bucks and no further damage.
ORIGINAL: ben805
Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
Damn I have to check what oil I went with again lol But I have blue's in the front and Greens in the rear. The rear sags a little lower than the front and the front is slight above even. I was saying I think I am having steering issues or just getting squirly....Those are two different issues front and rear....But do you think I should run greens in the front as well? Are the blue's pushing more weight to the rear and not allowing my front end to stay planted over bumps? I am yet to run this at one of our better tracks however.
K223
K223
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: runninron69
I hope you guys don't mind but I have been kinda eves-dropping. I have been running off-road R/C since the first RC10 GT's came out.Had one of the first in Chattanogga.I have been away from the hobby for about seven years due to poor health but I am starting to get back now. I was really thrown for a loop when i read that 1/10 trucks are a dead class!!! For crap sakes that what got nitro started. I agree,you do really have to know your stuff to sucessfully campaign a 1/10 off-road.To get started back I thought a 1/8 buggy would be easier to start with.Seems to be but I really miss that insane,barely controllabled power to weight ratio of a GT with an OS motor. Bought a CEN C-1 RTR buggy because it was a little less expensive than an all out buggy.Wish I had never seen that piece of crap. Quality control is non-existant as is their customer service.The best thing about it is the FM radio that came with it.LCD screen,tons of adjustability,ten model memory.At least I have a good radio when i get my next RC 10 GT.I would like to find an early model with a tub chassis just for old times sake. If their are things i have forgotten I hope it is okay to hit you guys up for tips and tricks. Later and have a good week-end.
I hope you guys don't mind but I have been kinda eves-dropping. I have been running off-road R/C since the first RC10 GT's came out.Had one of the first in Chattanogga.I have been away from the hobby for about seven years due to poor health but I am starting to get back now. I was really thrown for a loop when i read that 1/10 trucks are a dead class!!! For crap sakes that what got nitro started. I agree,you do really have to know your stuff to sucessfully campaign a 1/10 off-road.To get started back I thought a 1/8 buggy would be easier to start with.Seems to be but I really miss that insane,barely controllabled power to weight ratio of a GT with an OS motor. Bought a CEN C-1 RTR buggy because it was a little less expensive than an all out buggy.Wish I had never seen that piece of crap. Quality control is non-existant as is their customer service.The best thing about it is the FM radio that came with it.LCD screen,tons of adjustability,ten model memory.At least I have a good radio when i get my next RC 10 GT.I would like to find an early model with a tub chassis just for old times sake. If their are things i have forgotten I hope it is okay to hit you guys up for tips and tricks. Later and have a good week-end.
k223
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
I took my OS 18CVRX apart yesterday for maintenance and while I was at it I ported the header and sleeve, it runs like a mad bat outta hell, wish the GT2 has a 2nd gear LOL also added a wheelie bar for better wheelie control.
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: runninron69
I hope you guys don't mind but I have been kinda eves-dropping. I have been running off-road R/C since the first RC10 GT's came out.Had one of the first in Chattanogga.I have been away from the hobby for about seven years due to poor health but I am starting to get back now. I was really thrown for a loop when i read that 1/10 trucks are a dead class!!! For crap sakes that what got nitro started. I agree,you do really have to know your stuff to sucessfully campaign a 1/10 off-road.To get started back I thought a 1/8 buggy would be easier to start with.Seems to be but I really miss that insane,barely controllabled power to weight ratio of a GT with an OS motor. Bought a CEN C-1 RTR buggy because it was a little less expensive than an all out buggy.Wish I had never seen that piece of crap. Quality control is non-existant as is their customer service.The best thing about it is the FM radio that came with it.LCD screen,tons of adjustability,ten model memory.At least I have a good radio when i get my next RC 10 GT.I would like to find an early model with a tub chassis just for old times sake. If their are things i have forgotten I hope it is okay to hit you guys up for tips and tricks. Later and have a good week-end.
I hope you guys don't mind but I have been kinda eves-dropping. I have been running off-road R/C since the first RC10 GT's came out.Had one of the first in Chattanogga.I have been away from the hobby for about seven years due to poor health but I am starting to get back now. I was really thrown for a loop when i read that 1/10 trucks are a dead class!!! For crap sakes that what got nitro started. I agree,you do really have to know your stuff to sucessfully campaign a 1/10 off-road.To get started back I thought a 1/8 buggy would be easier to start with.Seems to be but I really miss that insane,barely controllabled power to weight ratio of a GT with an OS motor. Bought a CEN C-1 RTR buggy because it was a little less expensive than an all out buggy.Wish I had never seen that piece of crap. Quality control is non-existant as is their customer service.The best thing about it is the FM radio that came with it.LCD screen,tons of adjustability,ten model memory.At least I have a good radio when i get my next RC 10 GT.I would like to find an early model with a tub chassis just for old times sake. If their are things i have forgotten I hope it is okay to hit you guys up for tips and tricks. Later and have a good week-end.
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: R/C Lightweight
Welcome back to the hobby. CEN customer service is pretty terrible, as I've had 2 CEN vehicles myself. I really didn't have any serious issues with either truck, but when I would call CEN, they were pretty useless and didn't want to help in any way. Oh well, you learn as you go. I agree that it's a shame to see the gas truck class withering away, but with the power and run times that brushless motors and lipo batteries offer, you can easily see why. I don't care if I'm the last man standing at my track that ever runs a gas truck, even if there is no class for it. Open practice is fine with me.
ORIGINAL: runninron69
I hope you guys don't mind but I have been kinda eves-dropping. I have been running off-road R/C since the first RC10 GT's came out.Had one of the first in Chattanogga.I have been away from the hobby for about seven years due to poor health but I am starting to get back now. I was really thrown for a loop when i read that 1/10 trucks are a dead class!!! For crap sakes that what got nitro started. I agree,you do really have to know your stuff to sucessfully campaign a 1/10 off-road.To get started back I thought a 1/8 buggy would be easier to start with.Seems to be but I really miss that insane,barely controllabled power to weight ratio of a GT with an OS motor. Bought a CEN C-1 RTR buggy because it was a little less expensive than an all out buggy.Wish I had never seen that piece of crap. Quality control is non-existant as is their customer service.The best thing about it is the FM radio that came with it.LCD screen,tons of adjustability,ten model memory.At least I have a good radio when i get my next RC 10 GT.I would like to find an early model with a tub chassis just for old times sake. If their are things i have forgotten I hope it is okay to hit you guys up for tips and tricks. Later and have a good week-end.
I hope you guys don't mind but I have been kinda eves-dropping. I have been running off-road R/C since the first RC10 GT's came out.Had one of the first in Chattanogga.I have been away from the hobby for about seven years due to poor health but I am starting to get back now. I was really thrown for a loop when i read that 1/10 trucks are a dead class!!! For crap sakes that what got nitro started. I agree,you do really have to know your stuff to sucessfully campaign a 1/10 off-road.To get started back I thought a 1/8 buggy would be easier to start with.Seems to be but I really miss that insane,barely controllabled power to weight ratio of a GT with an OS motor. Bought a CEN C-1 RTR buggy because it was a little less expensive than an all out buggy.Wish I had never seen that piece of crap. Quality control is non-existant as is their customer service.The best thing about it is the FM radio that came with it.LCD screen,tons of adjustability,ten model memory.At least I have a good radio when i get my next RC 10 GT.I would like to find an early model with a tub chassis just for old times sake. If their are things i have forgotten I hope it is okay to hit you guys up for tips and tricks. Later and have a good week-end.
Ask anyone who had a gas truck or still has them hiding at home...They would all like to bring them out and start a class....It's like the in thing to want to do anyway.
K223
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
I wish that would happen K223. I am utterly sad to report that, at my local track, not only are gas trucks dead but hardly anybody runs nitro of any sort. There might be 2 nitro guys out of the 40 or so racers, and they are usually high end 1/8 buggies like the 8ight 2.0 or Hyper 9. Everyone has 1/8 e-conversions or runs electric 1/10 scale. I asked the owner why everyone left nitro behind, and he said that the current available technology in electric make them more appealing to racers due to less maintenaince and the "easier to drive" factor. The racers at my track don't care about the added realism that nitro involves and are happy with their brushless lipo powered vehicles. They love not having to tune an engine. I have several brushless electrics, but none give me the same experience that the nitro stadium truck has to offer. I enjoy both for different reasons, but sometimes I want to hear and smell that nitro burnin' !!!
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
i started racing back in 1985 with a rc10 gold tub .. today i see the lipo and brushless technology blowing gas away .. the new stuff is easier,faster,greener .... dont get me wrong i prefer nitro, but if ya wanna race then ya have to race what the majority races ....
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: MCSRacing
i started racing back in 1985 with a rc10 gold tub .. today i see the lipo and brushless technology blowing gas away .. the new stuff is easier,faster,greener .... dont get me wrong i prefer nitro, but if ya wanna race then ya have to race what the majority races ....
i started racing back in 1985 with a rc10 gold tub .. today i see the lipo and brushless technology blowing gas away .. the new stuff is easier,faster,greener .... dont get me wrong i prefer nitro, but if ya wanna race then ya have to race what the majority races ....
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
At 60 years old I guess I am just a crusty old fossil.I remember my first trip to the drag strip with my brother when I first stood right beside a "fuelie" in the pits.There was something about that smell that I've never been able to get out of my blood.I love the smell of nitro in the morning!!! I guess you're right about the power and speed of the new tech but a silent racecar (truck) is just wrong.When was the last time you went to a full scale race and the vehicles made NO NOISE? Never I bet.Back in the day my favorite track (Dalton Raceway in Georgia) went to all electric.They lasted most of one season and went broke.This after being a hobby shop for thirty years.Admittedly,most of that time was with airplanes and boats but they failed to realize just how much money they were making off the nitro guys.Oh well,time marches on.
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: runninron69
At 60 years old I guess I am just a crusty old fossil.I remember my first trip to the drag strip with my brother when I first stood right beside a ''fuelie'' in the pits.There was something about that smell that I've never been able to get out of my blood.I love the smell of nitro in the morning!!! I guess you're right about the power and speed of the new tech but a silent racecar (truck) is just wrong.When was the last time you went to a full scale race and the vehicles made NO NOISE? Never I bet.Back in the day my favorite track (Dalton Raceway in Georgia) went to all electric.They lasted most of one season and went broke.This after being a hobby shop for thirty years.Admittedly,most of that time was with airplanes and boats but they failed to realize just how much money they were making off the nitro guys.Oh well,time marches on.
At 60 years old I guess I am just a crusty old fossil.I remember my first trip to the drag strip with my brother when I first stood right beside a ''fuelie'' in the pits.There was something about that smell that I've never been able to get out of my blood.I love the smell of nitro in the morning!!! I guess you're right about the power and speed of the new tech but a silent racecar (truck) is just wrong.When was the last time you went to a full scale race and the vehicles made NO NOISE? Never I bet.Back in the day my favorite track (Dalton Raceway in Georgia) went to all electric.They lasted most of one season and went broke.This after being a hobby shop for thirty years.Admittedly,most of that time was with airplanes and boats but they failed to realize just how much money they were making off the nitro guys.Oh well,time marches on.
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
Greetings all,
I have several Brushless, Lipo powered vehicles, and I've been bitten by the nitro bug. I wanted to get a GT2 but didn't know If I should go for a RTR, or a kit. I do have a nice 2.4 radio to use for the car, and a new Hitec 645MG servo, but I know for the kit I would need a throttle servo, engine , and a bump box also. What would you guys sugggest for my first nitro. Kit, or the RTR??? and If I did get a kit would a Dynamite .12 speed be a nice engine to get me going?? any imput would be greatley appreciated.
Mike
I have several Brushless, Lipo powered vehicles, and I've been bitten by the nitro bug. I wanted to get a GT2 but didn't know If I should go for a RTR, or a kit. I do have a nice 2.4 radio to use for the car, and a new Hitec 645MG servo, but I know for the kit I would need a throttle servo, engine , and a bump box also. What would you guys sugggest for my first nitro. Kit, or the RTR??? and If I did get a kit would a Dynamite .12 speed be a nice engine to get me going?? any imput would be greatley appreciated.
Mike
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
i was just wondering what would be the cheapest and easiest pullstart motor to get for this car,that is faster than the stock 1? and what is the best way to go .12 or .18 and why?
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: chondro1
Greetings all,
I have several Brushless, Lipo powered vehicles, and I've been bitten by the nitro bug. I wanted to get a GT2 but didn't know If I should go for a RTR, or a kit. I do have a nice 2.4 radio to use for the car, and a new Hitec 645MG servo, but I know for the kit I would need a throttle servo, engine , and a bump box also. What would you guys sugggest for my first nitro. Kit, or the RTR??? and If I did get a kit would a Dynamite .12 speed be a nice engine to get me going?? any imput would be greatley appreciated.
Mike
Greetings all,
I have several Brushless, Lipo powered vehicles, and I've been bitten by the nitro bug. I wanted to get a GT2 but didn't know If I should go for a RTR, or a kit. I do have a nice 2.4 radio to use for the car, and a new Hitec 645MG servo, but I know for the kit I would need a throttle servo, engine , and a bump box also. What would you guys sugggest for my first nitro. Kit, or the RTR??? and If I did get a kit would a Dynamite .12 speed be a nice engine to get me going?? any imput would be greatley appreciated.
Mike
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: chondro1
Greetings all,
I have several Brushless, Lipo powered vehicles, and I've been bitten by the nitro bug. I wanted to get a GT2 but didn't know If I should go for a RTR, or a kit. I do have a nice 2.4 radio to use for the car, and a new Hitec 645MG servo, but I know for the kit I would need a throttle servo, engine , and a bump box also. What would you guys sugggest for my first nitro. Kit, or the RTR??? and If I did get a kit would a Dynamite .12 speed be a nice engine to get me going?? any imput would be greatley appreciated.
Mike
Greetings all,
I have several Brushless, Lipo powered vehicles, and I've been bitten by the nitro bug. I wanted to get a GT2 but didn't know If I should go for a RTR, or a kit. I do have a nice 2.4 radio to use for the car, and a new Hitec 645MG servo, but I know for the kit I would need a throttle servo, engine , and a bump box also. What would you guys sugggest for my first nitro. Kit, or the RTR??? and If I did get a kit would a Dynamite .12 speed be a nice engine to get me going?? any imput would be greatley appreciated.
Mike
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
.12 size engines will keep you race legal, if you're lucky enough to have a gas truck class at your track. Most people are pretty keen on O.S. engines for the GT2, but I'm not sure if they make any with a pullstart. I'm sure someone will chime in for a solution.
#1473
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
i love this car!...i put the 56t spur gear and 19t bell gear with the factory team smoothy pipe and it does wheelies on point every time.....but what i would like to know if the stock pipe is tuned for torque or rpm....and what pipe would be best for tracks and bmx burm tracks lol
#1474
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
Thanks guys for the replys, It makes my decessision alot easier. I just went on to tower and ordered the RTR, and do what R/Clight said to do as far as swaping the servos around, and putting in my 645. As far as Brushless vehicles I have a VXL Rustler, a 3905 E-maxx, with the MMM2200 Castle motor in it, and an Associate RC18T with a 4200 mamba. all vehicles are powered with Zippy lipos, which are fantastic lipos for the price. I get them from a company called Hobbycity. A battery for the max, and the rustler is only $20.00 for a 5000Mah 2cell. I also get about 35 minutes of hard running with these batteries. I get 2200mah 2cells for the RC18T for around $12.00 which give me abouth the same runtime, and mind blowing performance.
Mike
Mike
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: chondro1
Thanks guys for the replys, It makes my decessision alot easier. I just went on to tower and ordered the RTR, and do what R/Clight said to do as far as swaping the servos around, and putting in my 645. As far as Brushless vehicles I have a VXL Rustler, a 3905 E-maxx, with the MMM2200 Castle motor in it, and an Associate RC18T with a 4200 mamba. all vehicles are powered with Zippy lipos, which are fantastic lipos for the price. I get them from a company called Hobbycity. A battery for the max, and the rustler is only $20.00 for a 5000Mah 2cell. I also get about 35 minutes of hard running with these batteries. I get 2200mah 2cells for the RC18T for around $12.00 which give me abouth the same runtime, and mind blowing performance.
Mike
Thanks guys for the replys, It makes my decessision alot easier. I just went on to tower and ordered the RTR, and do what R/Clight said to do as far as swaping the servos around, and putting in my 645. As far as Brushless vehicles I have a VXL Rustler, a 3905 E-maxx, with the MMM2200 Castle motor in it, and an Associate RC18T with a 4200 mamba. all vehicles are powered with Zippy lipos, which are fantastic lipos for the price. I get them from a company called Hobbycity. A battery for the max, and the rustler is only $20.00 for a 5000Mah 2cell. I also get about 35 minutes of hard running with these batteries. I get 2200mah 2cells for the RC18T for around $12.00 which give me abouth the same runtime, and mind blowing performance.
Mike
K223