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*~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*

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Old 08-06-2009, 02:57 PM
  #1451  
ben805
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Default RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*

I run the stock silver spring up front and green at the back, but I use 40wt oil, 1 thick spacer for the front and 2 in the back so the rear kinda sack down a tiny bit as well.
Old 08-06-2009, 04:40 PM
  #1452  
ben805
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Default RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*

Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
Old 08-06-2009, 08:46 PM
  #1453  
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ORIGINAL: ben805

Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
You said it best : "something's gotta give." I think there's too much risk, not enough reward involved with running a steel spur. If your motor mount screws come loose, you could really trash the clutch bell, or diff, or perhaps even the entire tranny itself. I'd rather have a plastic gear that simply strips out and only be out 5 bucks and no further damage.
Old 08-06-2009, 08:55 PM
  #1454  
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ORIGINAL: ben805

Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
You said it best : ''something's gotta give.'' I think there's too much risk, not enough reward involved with running a steel spur. If your motor mount screws come loose, you could really trash the clutch bell, or diff, or perhaps even the entire tranny itself. I'd rather have a plastic gear that simply strips out and only be out 5 bucks and no further damage.
True....Thought about the steel gears but so far my mesh is perfect and no signs of wear at all. Even with a hot motor and you really never get dead traction on the track anyway when you gun it. If you play around in the grass or mud, then you might want to consider it. Not to mention the plastic is less rotating mass to turn, less for your motor to have to work against. Not that there is a shortage of power here lol

Damn I have to check what oil I went with again lol But I have blue's in the front and Greens in the rear. The rear sags a little lower than the front and the front is slight above even. I was saying I think I am having steering issues or just getting squirly....Those are two different issues front and rear....But do you think I should run greens in the front as well? Are the blue's pushing more weight to the rear and not allowing my front end to stay planted over bumps? I am yet to run this at one of our better tracks however.

K223
Old 08-06-2009, 09:13 PM
  #1455  
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Default RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*


ORIGINAL: K223


ORIGINAL: R/C Lightweight


ORIGINAL: ben805

Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
You said it best : ''something's gotta give.'' I think there's too much risk, not enough reward involved with running a steel spur. If your motor mount screws come loose, you could really trash the clutch bell, or diff, or perhaps even the entire tranny itself. I'd rather have a plastic gear that simply strips out and only be out 5 bucks and no further damage.
True....Thought about the steel gears but so far my mesh is perfect and no signs of wear at all. Even with a hot motor and you really never get dead traction on the track anyway when you gun it. If you play around in the grass or mud, then you might want to consider it. Not to mention the plastic is less rotating mass to turn, less for your motor to have to work against. Not that there is a shortage of power here lol

Damn I have to check what oil I went with again lol But I have blue's in the front and Greens in the rear. The rear sags a little lower than the front and the front is slight above even. I was saying I think I am having steering issues or just getting squirly....Those are two different issues front and rear....But do you think I should run greens in the front as well? Are the blue's pushing more weight to the rear and not allowing my front end to stay planted over bumps? I am yet to run this at one of our better tracks however.

K223
Sorry K223, I meant to say that I was running silver fronts and green rears (stock setup). I didn't realize I lumped the spring and oil weight together in my earlier post. Is your track rutted out pretty bad? If so, a lighter oil will help your truck track smooth through the rough stuff, but if the jumps are big you might encounter chassis slap and the truck bottoming out. It's a delicate balance that can certainly vary from track to track. Not to mention the shock angle adjustments and piston selection variables. You could always stick with heavy oil and increase piston hole size to try to smooth it out as well. It's quite a game to find that perfect setup that works for you and what suits your driving style best.
Old 08-07-2009, 01:07 AM
  #1456  
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Default RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*

I have seen some racer carried a couple sets of springs with them so they could swap them out on the spot depending on the tracks, these springs aren't super expensive so if money allow get a few and play with them to see what suit the track best..


As for the steel spur gear, yea I'm just going to scratch the idea, I have yet to strip my spur gear and if it ever blew up it's relatively cheap to replace, don't really feel like melting the tranny. LOL
Old 08-07-2009, 10:22 PM
  #1457  
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I hope you guys don't mind but I have been kinda eves-dropping. I have been running off-road R/C since the first RC10 GT's came out.Had one of the first in Chattanogga.I have been away from the hobby for about seven years due to poor health but I am starting to get back now. I was really thrown for a loop when i read that 1/10 trucks are a dead class!!! For crap sakes that what got nitro started. I agree,you do really have to know your stuff to sucessfully campaign a 1/10 off-road.To get started back I thought a 1/8 buggy would be easier to start with.Seems to be but I really miss that insane,barely controllabled power to weight ratio of a GT with an OS motor. Bought a CEN C-1 RTR buggy because it was a little less expensive than an all out buggy.Wish I had never seen that piece of crap. Quality control is non-existant as is their customer service.The best thing about it is the FM radio that came with it.LCD screen,tons of adjustability,ten model memory.At least I have a good radio when i get my next RC 10 GT.I would like to find an early model with a tub chassis just for old times sake. If their are things i have forgotten I hope it is okay to hit you guys up for tips and tricks. Later and have a good week-end.
Old 08-07-2009, 10:44 PM
  #1458  
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Default RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*


ORIGINAL: R/C Lightweight


ORIGINAL: K223


ORIGINAL: R/C Lightweight


ORIGINAL: ben805

Oh yea, have anyone run the steel spur gear? the only thing I'm afraid is it may eventually melt the differential....something gotta give. LOL what's your thought?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTN6&P=8
You said it best : ''something's gotta give.'' I think there's too much risk, not enough reward involved with running a steel spur. If your motor mount screws come loose, you could really trash the clutch bell, or diff, or perhaps even the entire tranny itself. I'd rather have a plastic gear that simply strips out and only be out 5 bucks and no further damage.
True....Thought about the steel gears but so far my mesh is perfect and no signs of wear at all. Even with a hot motor and you really never get dead traction on the track anyway when you gun it. If you play around in the grass or mud, then you might want to consider it. Not to mention the plastic is less rotating mass to turn, less for your motor to have to work against. Not that there is a shortage of power here lol

Damn I have to check what oil I went with again lol But I have blue's in the front and Greens in the rear. The rear sags a little lower than the front and the front is slight above even. I was saying I think I am having steering issues or just getting squirly....Those are two different issues front and rear....But do you think I should run greens in the front as well? Are the blue's pushing more weight to the rear and not allowing my front end to stay planted over bumps? I am yet to run this at one of our better tracks however.

K223
Sorry K223, I meant to say that I was running silver fronts and green rears (stock setup). I didn't realize I lumped the spring and oil weight together in my earlier post. Is your track rutted out pretty bad? If so, a lighter oil will help your truck track smooth through the rough stuff, but if the jumps are big you might encounter chassis slap and the truck bottoming out. It's a delicate balance that can certainly vary from track to track. Not to mention the shock angle adjustments and piston selection variables. You could always stick with heavy oil and increase piston hole size to try to smooth it out as well. It's quite a game to find that perfect setup that works for you and what suits your driving style best.
Yeah I see what you mean. Well the practice track I have been going to is rutted out and not drug or watered...pretty rought. But the other two tracks are much smoother, drug and watered. They have some good sized jumps and such. I am not going to go crazy with the setup now....I put a basic mimicked setup that one of the AE drivers used for similar tracks and until I really learn how to drive it decently, I probably wouldn't know what makes a small difference and what does not just yet. A little at a time it seems.

K223
Old 08-07-2009, 10:55 PM
  #1459  
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ORIGINAL: runninron69

I hope you guys don't mind but I have been kinda eves-dropping. I have been running off-road R/C since the first RC10 GT's came out.Had one of the first in Chattanogga.I have been away from the hobby for about seven years due to poor health but I am starting to get back now. I was really thrown for a loop when i read that 1/10 trucks are a dead class!!! For crap sakes that what got nitro started. I agree,you do really have to know your stuff to sucessfully campaign a 1/10 off-road.To get started back I thought a 1/8 buggy would be easier to start with.Seems to be but I really miss that insane,barely controllabled power to weight ratio of a GT with an OS motor. Bought a CEN C-1 RTR buggy because it was a little less expensive than an all out buggy.Wish I had never seen that piece of crap. Quality control is non-existant as is their customer service.The best thing about it is the FM radio that came with it.LCD screen,tons of adjustability,ten model memory.At least I have a good radio when i get my next RC 10 GT.I would like to find an early model with a tub chassis just for old times sake. If their are things i have forgotten I hope it is okay to hit you guys up for tips and tricks. Later and have a good week-end.
Check ebay for a tubby.....I see them on there from time to time.....My FT GT2 with the OS .12 TZ is crazy....It will be a while before I can master the power of it and keep it off the wall lol...I already upgraded mine to RPM Arms as I broke two already. It seems like less storing and working the throttle does a great job of getting you around the turns fast. These trucks are something...I can't beleive most people want to run SC electric instead lol

k223
Old 08-08-2009, 04:12 AM
  #1460  
ben805
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I took my OS 18CVRX apart yesterday for maintenance and while I was at it I ported the header and sleeve, it runs like a mad bat outta hell, wish the GT2 has a 2nd gear LOL also added a wheelie bar for better wheelie control.
Old 08-08-2009, 07:30 AM
  #1461  
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ORIGINAL: runninron69

I hope you guys don't mind but I have been kinda eves-dropping. I have been running off-road R/C since the first RC10 GT's came out.Had one of the first in Chattanogga.I have been away from the hobby for about seven years due to poor health but I am starting to get back now. I was really thrown for a loop when i read that 1/10 trucks are a dead class!!! For crap sakes that what got nitro started. I agree,you do really have to know your stuff to sucessfully campaign a 1/10 off-road.To get started back I thought a 1/8 buggy would be easier to start with.Seems to be but I really miss that insane,barely controllabled power to weight ratio of a GT with an OS motor. Bought a CEN C-1 RTR buggy because it was a little less expensive than an all out buggy.Wish I had never seen that piece of crap. Quality control is non-existant as is their customer service.The best thing about it is the FM radio that came with it.LCD screen,tons of adjustability,ten model memory.At least I have a good radio when i get my next RC 10 GT.I would like to find an early model with a tub chassis just for old times sake. If their are things i have forgotten I hope it is okay to hit you guys up for tips and tricks. Later and have a good week-end.
Welcome back to the hobby. CEN customer service is pretty terrible, as I've had 2 CEN vehicles myself. I really didn't have any serious issues with either truck, but when I would call CEN, they were pretty useless and didn't want to help in any way. Oh well, you learn as you go. I agree that it's a shame to see the gas truck class withering away, but with the power and run times that brushless motors and lipo batteries offer, you can easily see why. I don't care if I'm the last man standing at my track that ever runs a gas truck, even if there is no class for it. Open practice is fine with me.
Old 08-08-2009, 07:36 AM
  #1462  
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ORIGINAL: runninron69

I hope you guys don't mind but I have been kinda eves-dropping. I have been running off-road R/C since the first RC10 GT's came out.Had one of the first in Chattanogga.I have been away from the hobby for about seven years due to poor health but I am starting to get back now. I was really thrown for a loop when i read that 1/10 trucks are a dead class!!! For crap sakes that what got nitro started. I agree,you do really have to know your stuff to sucessfully campaign a 1/10 off-road.To get started back I thought a 1/8 buggy would be easier to start with.Seems to be but I really miss that insane,barely controllabled power to weight ratio of a GT with an OS motor. Bought a CEN C-1 RTR buggy because it was a little less expensive than an all out buggy.Wish I had never seen that piece of crap. Quality control is non-existant as is their customer service.The best thing about it is the FM radio that came with it.LCD screen,tons of adjustability,ten model memory.At least I have a good radio when i get my next RC 10 GT.I would like to find an early model with a tub chassis just for old times sake. If their are things i have forgotten I hope it is okay to hit you guys up for tips and tricks. Later and have a good week-end.
Welcome back to the hobby. CEN customer service is pretty terrible, as I've had 2 CEN vehicles myself. I really didn't have any serious issues with either truck, but when I would call CEN, they were pretty useless and didn't want to help in any way. Oh well, you learn as you go. I agree that it's a shame to see the gas truck class withering away, but with the power and run times that brushless motors and lipo batteries offer, you can easily see why. I don't care if I'm the last man standing at my track that ever runs a gas truck, even if there is no class for it. Open practice is fine with me.
Gas Gas Gas.......Nothing beats burning fuel, the smoke, the sound the realism.....Me and my friend detest 1/8th scale buggy E conversions....Yes they haul booty and work...But that is just not right lol....Real car guys like Engines!!!!!!

Ask anyone who had a gas truck or still has them hiding at home...They would all like to bring them out and start a class....It's like the in thing to want to do anyway.

K223
Old 08-08-2009, 07:58 AM
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I wish that would happen K223. I am utterly sad to report that, at my local track, not only are gas trucks dead but hardly anybody runs nitro of any sort. There might be 2 nitro guys out of the 40 or so racers, and they are usually high end 1/8 buggies like the 8ight 2.0 or Hyper 9. Everyone has 1/8 e-conversions or runs electric 1/10 scale. I asked the owner why everyone left nitro behind, and he said that the current available technology in electric make them more appealing to racers due to less maintenaince and the "easier to drive" factor. The racers at my track don't care about the added realism that nitro involves and are happy with their brushless lipo powered vehicles. They love not having to tune an engine. I have several brushless electrics, but none give me the same experience that the nitro stadium truck has to offer. I enjoy both for different reasons, but sometimes I want to hear and smell that nitro burnin' !!!
Old 08-08-2009, 09:02 AM
  #1464  
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Default RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*

i started racing back in 1985 with a rc10 gold tub .. today i see the lipo and brushless technology blowing gas away .. the new stuff is easier,faster,greener .... dont get me wrong i prefer nitro, but if ya wanna race then ya have to race what the majority races ....
Old 08-08-2009, 11:44 AM
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i started racing back in 1985 with a rc10 gold tub .. today i see the lipo and brushless technology blowing gas away .. the new stuff is easier,faster,greener .... dont get me wrong i prefer nitro, but if ya wanna race then ya have to race what the majority races ....
I realize that. I was urged to choose between the Losi XXX-T and AE T4 for stadium truck racing at my local track. Don't get me wrong, it was still fun, but some of the thrill is missing when the nitro soundtrack is absent. For me, it's not a matter of what's faster or more powerful or has the highest top speed. There's no question about the superiority of brushless/lipo over nitro for power and speed. But there is something to be said about the realism of nitro and the entirely different challenge it presents.
Old 08-08-2009, 03:07 PM
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At 60 years old I guess I am just a crusty old fossil.I remember my first trip to the drag strip with my brother when I first stood right beside a "fuelie" in the pits.There was something about that smell that I've never been able to get out of my blood.I love the smell of nitro in the morning!!! I guess you're right about the power and speed of the new tech but a silent racecar (truck) is just wrong.When was the last time you went to a full scale race and the vehicles made NO NOISE? Never I bet.Back in the day my favorite track (Dalton Raceway in Georgia) went to all electric.They lasted most of one season and went broke.This after being a hobby shop for thirty years.Admittedly,most of that time was with airplanes and boats but they failed to realize just how much money they were making off the nitro guys.Oh well,time marches on.
Old 08-08-2009, 05:11 PM
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ORIGINAL: runninron69

At 60 years old I guess I am just a crusty old fossil.I remember my first trip to the drag strip with my brother when I first stood right beside a ''fuelie'' in the pits.There was something about that smell that I've never been able to get out of my blood.I love the smell of nitro in the morning!!! I guess you're right about the power and speed of the new tech but a silent racecar (truck) is just wrong.When was the last time you went to a full scale race and the vehicles made NO NOISE? Never I bet.Back in the day my favorite track (Dalton Raceway in Georgia) went to all electric.They lasted most of one season and went broke.This after being a hobby shop for thirty years.Admittedly,most of that time was with airplanes and boats but they failed to realize just how much money they were making off the nitro guys.Oh well,time marches on.
"Crusty old fossil?" Nah, I'd say wise and experienced. The guys at my track that I fear most are 50+ years old. They are so patient and wait for the exact moment to make their move on you; and the young guns all scratch their heads afterwards. If the motor and battery tech had never made the advancements to where we are now, I'd say nitro would still be king. And I agree, nitro smell should be bottled and made into an air freshener!!! Gotta love it!!! It's like bacon, I can smell it a mile away!!!
Old 08-10-2009, 03:01 PM
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Default RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*

Greetings all,
I have several Brushless, Lipo powered vehicles, and I've been bitten by the nitro bug. I wanted to get a GT2 but didn't know If I should go for a RTR, or a kit. I do have a nice 2.4 radio to use for the car, and a new Hitec 645MG servo, but I know for the kit I would need a throttle servo, engine , and a bump box also. What would you guys sugggest for my first nitro. Kit, or the RTR??? and If I did get a kit would a Dynamite .12 speed be a nice engine to get me going?? any imput would be greatley appreciated.


Mike
Old 08-10-2009, 08:01 PM
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i was just wondering what would be the cheapest and easiest pullstart motor to get for this car,that is faster than the stock 1? and what is the best way to go .12 or .18 and why?
Old 08-10-2009, 09:26 PM
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ORIGINAL: chondro1

Greetings all,
I have several Brushless, Lipo powered vehicles, and I've been bitten by the nitro bug. I wanted to get a GT2 but didn't know If I should go for a RTR, or a kit. I do have a nice 2.4 radio to use for the car, and a new Hitec 645MG servo, but I know for the kit I would need a throttle servo, engine , and a bump box also. What would you guys sugggest for my first nitro. Kit, or the RTR??? and If I did get a kit would a Dynamite .12 speed be a nice engine to get me going?? any imput would be greatley appreciated.


Mike
The RTR would work well for your situation. Just move the metal geared steering servo to throttle duty, and drop in your 645 for steering. Swapping the receiver out is no biggie, and if you ever sell it, you could drop the original receiver back in to make it RTR (makes it easier to sell down the road). The stock AE.15X engine makes really good power once it's been properly broken in and tuned. Granted it's not gonna move the truck like an O.S. TZ engine, but for general use, it's more than enough. The RTR package is surprisingly good on the track as well. I was blown away at how well my GT2 did as the track with RTR gear. I don't like having to carry around a ton of stuff to run my truck, so I actually prefer the pullstart for anything other than racing (which my track no longer has a class for gas truck). I'm sure that whatever route you choose-kit or RTR, you'll love the GT2's handling. Remember, you can always upgrade to a faster engine if the stocker isn't getting it done. I know you said you have brushless electrics (what vehicles if you don't mind me asking?), so you may never be impressed with the power and speed of nitro trucks, but the reward for getting a great tune on an engine and hearing it scream towards it's redline cannot be simulated by electric motors. Good luck and welcome to the nitro addiction.
Old 08-10-2009, 09:27 PM
  #1471  
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Default RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*


ORIGINAL: chondro1

Greetings all,
I have several Brushless, Lipo powered vehicles, and I've been bitten by the nitro bug. I wanted to get a GT2 but didn't know If I should go for a RTR, or a kit. I do have a nice 2.4 radio to use for the car, and a new Hitec 645MG servo, but I know for the kit I would need a throttle servo, engine , and a bump box also. What would you guys sugggest for my first nitro. Kit, or the RTR??? and If I did get a kit would a Dynamite .12 speed be a nice engine to get me going?? any imput would be greatley appreciated.


Mike
GT2 rtr is a great starter with massive potential .... and the lil AE15x motor rips ... any choice as far as losi and associated go is a good one !!!!!
Old 08-10-2009, 09:30 PM
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.12 size engines will keep you race legal, if you're lucky enough to have a gas truck class at your track. Most people are pretty keen on O.S. engines for the GT2, but I'm not sure if they make any with a pullstart. I'm sure someone will chime in for a solution.
Old 08-11-2009, 01:20 AM
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i love this car!...i put the 56t spur gear and 19t bell gear with the factory team smoothy pipe and it does wheelies on point every time.....but what i would like to know if the stock pipe is tuned for torque or rpm....and what pipe would be best for tracks and bmx burm tracks lol
Old 08-11-2009, 03:08 PM
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Thanks guys for the replys, It makes my decessision alot easier. I just went on to tower and ordered the RTR, and do what R/Clight said to do as far as swaping the servos around, and putting in my 645. As far as Brushless vehicles I have a VXL Rustler, a 3905 E-maxx, with the MMM2200 Castle motor in it, and an Associate RC18T with a 4200 mamba. all vehicles are powered with Zippy lipos, which are fantastic lipos for the price. I get them from a company called Hobbycity. A battery for the max, and the rustler is only $20.00 for a 5000Mah 2cell. I also get about 35 minutes of hard running with these batteries. I get 2200mah 2cells for the RC18T for around $12.00 which give me abouth the same runtime, and mind blowing performance.

Mike
Old 08-11-2009, 03:23 PM
  #1475  
K223
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Default RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*


ORIGINAL: chondro1

Thanks guys for the replys, It makes my decessision alot easier. I just went on to tower and ordered the RTR, and do what R/Clight said to do as far as swaping the servos around, and putting in my 645. As far as Brushless vehicles I have a VXL Rustler, a 3905 E-maxx, with the MMM2200 Castle motor in it, and an Associate RC18T with a 4200 mamba. all vehicles are powered with Zippy lipos, which are fantastic lipos for the price. I get them from a company called Hobbycity. A battery for the max, and the rustler is only $20.00 for a 5000Mah 2cell. I also get about 35 minutes of hard running with these batteries. I get 2200mah 2cells for the RC18T for around $12.00 which give me abouth the same runtime, and mind blowing performance.

Mike
Honestly I am sure the RTR will be a ton of fun and still handle damn well. I have the Factory Team GT2 with an OS .12 TZ in it and it's quite overpowered for me and another buddy that started to run them. But I like it that way and will just go easy(well not all the time)until I learn how to drive it well. It's pretty easy for a hot .12 to over power these trucks being there 2 wheel drive and there is a learning curve to driving them. Anything more than the power of this OS engine would be a waste or just a super overpowered play toy. I have an OS .18 TZ in a TC3 road car and no way would you really ever be able to use that power effectly in this truck. Get the best tires you can on it...Bowties work pretty decently but want to try Holeshot's next as the truck can get squirly under power at times. I really have just begun to dial in mine. I admit these nitro vehicles can tax you until you get them setup right, But once you do and the power they put out and the sound....It's just the best I think.....1/8th scale E conversions are coming about down here, but still plenty of guys running nitro power in that class and assorted trucks....But the SC 1/10th scale electrics are coming on strong in popularity and I see more of these lately than anything.

K223


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