*~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
10-13-2006, 09:30 AM
#151
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: dannthenitroman
Ive also had a play with the new gt Factory Team kit, not sure if yours is the factory drivers one.. But my mate is one of 3 to get the early factory releases and it looks great. i was right, it is a little heavier than the gt but in the right spots, you need to put a washer on the hinge pin screws and just wow, it looks great.
Dann
Ive also had a play with the new gt Factory Team kit, not sure if yours is the factory drivers one.. But my mate is one of 3 to get the early factory releases and it looks great. i was right, it is a little heavier than the gt but in the right spots, you need to put a washer on the hinge pin screws and just wow, it looks great.
Dann
10-13-2006, 05:08 PM
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
Wasnt sure, in aus all i know is that ive had my hands on the 3rd one in the country. due to sponsorship and wasnt sure if anyone else could get a factory team.
Dann
Dann
10-13-2006, 11:05 PM
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
Yes, it is a Factory Team kit. That is all that is out in the states.........in limited numbers at that. Tower ran out of back rims too already[:@] Anybody seen some elsewhere?
10-13-2006, 11:40 PM
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: deus1978
I'm using two 5625 MG's. They are good servos for around $50 but the some people claim that they don't last (I've had mine for over a year and had zero problems). I want a little faster steering response so I will be buying an good Airtronics in the near future.
I'll post some pics of my truck tonight, I just got the body done.
ORIGINAL: scdrj
Which model servos?
Thanks for the tip on the body.
ORIGINAL: deus1978
two hi-tech digital servos.
BTW Jconcepts has a GT2 body out now.
two hi-tech digital servos.
BTW Jconcepts has a GT2 body out now.
Thanks for the tip on the body.
I'll post some pics of my truck tonight, I just got the body done.
I would think the 5625 would be fine for steering. I'm just going to use a 635BB. It is rated 0.01 sec slower than your 5625. However, I am using a 925MG for TH/BRK. That is where I need the speed (0.08 sec). There are a few a tad faster, but I bought two new in the boxes for $54 each.
10-14-2006, 12:07 PM
#155
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: scdrj
Cool, I'm ready to see some pics
I would think the 5625 would be fine for steering. I'm just going to use a 635BB. It is rated 0.01 sec slower than your 5625. However, I am using a 925MG for TH/BRK. That is where I need the speed (0.08 sec). There are a few a tad faster, but I bought two new in the boxes for $54 each.
ORIGINAL: deus1978
I'm using two 5625 MG's. They are good servos for around $50 but the some people claim that they don't last (I've had mine for over a year and had zero problems). I want a little faster steering response so I will be buying an good Airtronics in the near future.
I'll post some pics of my truck tonight, I just got the body done.
ORIGINAL: scdrj
Which model servos?
Thanks for the tip on the body.
ORIGINAL: deus1978
two hi-tech digital servos.
BTW Jconcepts has a GT2 body out now.
two hi-tech digital servos.
BTW Jconcepts has a GT2 body out now.
Thanks for the tip on the body.
I'll post some pics of my truck tonight, I just got the body done.
I would think the 5625 would be fine for steering. I'm just going to use a 635BB. It is rated 0.01 sec slower than your 5625. However, I am using a 925MG for TH/BRK. That is where I need the speed (0.08 sec). There are a few a tad faster, but I bought two new in the boxes for $54 each.
Anyways heres my GT2 w/o electronics, I'll be putting those in tomorrow after tonights club race. I going to use a OS 10E rotary carb in the MT.
10-15-2006, 02:47 AM
#158
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: dannthenitroman
Looks great. did you put washers on the rear pin retainers yet?
Dann
Looks great. did you put washers on the rear pin retainers yet?
Dann
Yeah I put the washers in already (front and rear)
10-15-2006, 11:49 AM
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
well i ended up with the nova rs12 and an o.s carb on my new gt2 and have got 3 tanks thru it now...seems to be a very smooth so far....the truck rolls very nice
10-15-2006, 02:46 PM
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: dannthenitroman
What model is yours?
Dann
What model is yours?
Dann
ive got the factory team edition gt2....i put the nova rs12 on it with an os carb.....i got about 7 tanks thru it now so its time to start tuning her in.....cant wait for the big race in chicago in 2 weeks
10-15-2006, 02:52 PM
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
hm, i actually like the stock body. i think ill paint it up in my club suit racing scheme i cant wait to buy mine, but it doesnt look like ill be able to get it for another few months[&o]
i cant wait to buy mine, but it doesnt look like ill be able to get it for another few months[&o]
10-15-2006, 11:25 PM
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
OKAY LADIES LETS SEE THE INNER WORKINGS OF THE GT2 TRANNY CONVINCE ME THAT THE GT2 IS WORTH THE MONEY, THE FRONT A ARMS LOOK LIKE TOOTH PICKS, WOULDNT TAKE MUCH TO BREAK THEM.....
10-15-2006, 11:46 PM
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
now that is a good way to ask for something, don't you guys think?
and its called a racer genious. supposed to be light you know? and using good quality plastics unlike some manufacturers...
and its called a racer genious. supposed to be light you know? and using good quality plastics unlike some manufacturers...
10-16-2006, 01:51 PM
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: CEO
Hmmm Is it a nylon blend like rpm or just plain old plastic?
Hmmm Is it a nylon blend like rpm or just plain old plastic?
10-17-2006, 12:04 AM
#169
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: CEO
OKAY LADIES LETS SEE THE INNER WORKINGS OF THE GT2 TRANNY CONVINCE ME THAT THE GT2 IS WORTH THE MONEY, THE FRONT A ARMS LOOK LIKE TOOTH PICKS, WOULDNT TAKE MUCH TO BREAK THEM.....
OKAY LADIES LETS SEE THE INNER WORKINGS OF THE GT2 TRANNY CONVINCE ME THAT THE GT2 IS WORTH THE MONEY, THE FRONT A ARMS LOOK LIKE TOOTH PICKS, WOULDNT TAKE MUCH TO BREAK THEM.....
10-17-2006, 02:59 AM
#170
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
The plastic is impregnated plastic i think, but i wouldnt know ive never broken anything. ever...
The tranny has got instead of a normal idler gear, it has a compound gear , this way it can be geared normally even though it has a very very high external ratio. that is, geared tall, but numerically low. this is a pic of it.
http://www.rc10b4.com/forum/attachme...achmentid=3827
This allows a huge amount of teeth on the clutch bell and therefor very big and may i say indestructable looking clutch arangement.
Its not just strength from this, but simplicity and more 'room' for adjusment.
this gearbox setup, allowing a very small spur gear also lowers the entire gearbox lowering cg.
See the chassis, see how skinny it is? ok consider this. get a pipe of some sort, say, a vacuum cleaner pipe. now grab it in the middle and twist it clockwise and counterclockwise quickly as you can. see the resistance to change directions? due to the length from the pivot to the weight ( the ends of the pipe ) it is going relatively fast, meaning a lot of momentum and therefor inertia when trying to change directions.
Now, grab the pipe by the end and put the other end on a hard surface or something suffucient. now twist, your wrist still moves as far, so the same mass is still being rotated as far, but due to the lack of momentum here from the lower distance from the pivot to the weight it is far easier and faster to move if back and forth.
Ok, same concept with the GT it is skinny so rapid directional changes are easy and the suspension will be leaned in the correct direction quickly and react as it was designed, with the weight on the outside tyre.
I have had a toy with one ( my mates sponsored in australia ) and it is EXTREMELY strong feeling and also very stiff.
Ok see the arm length? doe to the length of the arms it is very stable and yet reactive, imagine no suspension. obviously its bad.. der.
Now see a road car, it has short arms and the length is optimised with the surface. The GT2 has long ones, so its very stable.
Check the slipper clutch also, dual disk slipper very large pads meaning that minimal force is required to still 'hold' the torque, because of this its easier to adjust the slipper to the surface. and come on, it is the new version of the winningest rc car EVER.
These are good pictures here..
http://www.rc10b4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7971
Dann
The tranny has got instead of a normal idler gear, it has a compound gear , this way it can be geared normally even though it has a very very high external ratio. that is, geared tall, but numerically low. this is a pic of it.
http://www.rc10b4.com/forum/attachme...achmentid=3827
This allows a huge amount of teeth on the clutch bell and therefor very big and may i say indestructable looking clutch arangement.
Its not just strength from this, but simplicity and more 'room' for adjusment.
this gearbox setup, allowing a very small spur gear also lowers the entire gearbox lowering cg.
See the chassis, see how skinny it is? ok consider this. get a pipe of some sort, say, a vacuum cleaner pipe. now grab it in the middle and twist it clockwise and counterclockwise quickly as you can. see the resistance to change directions? due to the length from the pivot to the weight ( the ends of the pipe ) it is going relatively fast, meaning a lot of momentum and therefor inertia when trying to change directions.
Now, grab the pipe by the end and put the other end on a hard surface or something suffucient. now twist, your wrist still moves as far, so the same mass is still being rotated as far, but due to the lack of momentum here from the lower distance from the pivot to the weight it is far easier and faster to move if back and forth.
Ok, same concept with the GT it is skinny so rapid directional changes are easy and the suspension will be leaned in the correct direction quickly and react as it was designed, with the weight on the outside tyre.
I have had a toy with one ( my mates sponsored in australia ) and it is EXTREMELY strong feeling and also very stiff.
Ok see the arm length? doe to the length of the arms it is very stable and yet reactive, imagine no suspension. obviously its bad.. der.
Now see a road car, it has short arms and the length is optimised with the surface. The GT2 has long ones, so its very stable.
Check the slipper clutch also, dual disk slipper very large pads meaning that minimal force is required to still 'hold' the torque, because of this its easier to adjust the slipper to the surface. and come on, it is the new version of the winningest rc car EVER.
These are good pictures here..
http://www.rc10b4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7971
Dann
10-29-2006, 11:07 PM
#173
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
discovered a front arm substitute this weekend at the nitro fall classic ....t4 front arms will work..you need to space the c hub with wheelbase spacers but other than that they work....also my truck seemed to handle better after i had to switch arms(they were backk ordered at all the chicago hobby shops) by the way it wasnt my fault the arm got broke...thats what happens when you get hit by a truggy going the wrong way down a 100 foot straight away...lol....also the t4 arms seem a little beefier at the inner hinge point\\
best of all the truck didnt have one loose screw on it and i ran about a gallon through it over the three days of racing
best of all the truck didnt have one loose screw on it and i ran about a gallon through it over the three days of racing
10-30-2006, 02:16 PM
#174
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: tonytiger
discovered a front arm substitute this weekend at the nitro fall classic ....t4 front arms will work..you need to space the c hub with wheelbase spacers but other than that they work....also my truck seemed to handle better after i had to switch arms(they were backk ordered at all the chicago hobby shops) by the way it wasnt my fault the arm got broke...thats what happens when you get hit by a truggy going the wrong way down a 100 foot straight away...lol....also the t4 arms seem a little beefier at the inner hinge point\\
best of all the truck didnt have one loose screw on it and i ran about a gallon through it over the three days of racing
discovered a front arm substitute this weekend at the nitro fall classic ....t4 front arms will work..you need to space the c hub with wheelbase spacers but other than that they work....also my truck seemed to handle better after i had to switch arms(they were backk ordered at all the chicago hobby shops) by the way it wasnt my fault the arm got broke...thats what happens when you get hit by a truggy going the wrong way down a 100 foot straight away...lol....also the t4 arms seem a little beefier at the inner hinge point\\
best of all the truck didnt have one loose screw on it and i ran about a gallon through it over the three days of racing