Xyzzy

I just assembled the transmission on my GT2 today. I haven't built a kit since my B2 so I am a bit out of it.

Four questions:

1) How much play should there be on the diff and top shaft within the transmission? Should I shim them? They have +- 2-3mm play.
2) Should I glue the diff rings to the outdrives?
3) Should I scuff up the diff ring?
4) How do I calculate the final drive ratio of the entire transmission including the clutch bell housing and the spur gear?

(Gluing and scuffing diff rings were the hot ticket a few years ago among some of the local guys. I never understood why they did it but they were fast so I never questioned it.)

Thanks!

Xyzzy

I originally planned to get a TZ but after thinking about the cost and the (probably) uncontrollable power, I went with a TG. It should be delivered today. I think it was around $150. There is a (very) small article on it in the April issue of R/C Car magazine on page 114. I think the TG is O.S.'s replacement for the CV.

Wide Open

1) i didnt shim the anything in the transmission, and everything seems to be holding up fine and run really smoothly.
2) ive never heard of gluing the rings to the outdrives, i just put some grease on them to hold them in place.
3) personally i didnt scuff the diff ring, and it still has amazing acceleration.
4) the final drive ratio on the transmission is 4.09:1 according to associated's website.

Pro Twister Mods

The TG is a great little mill, it is a replacement for and between the CVR and TR which are no longer made stock they get decent run time and are peppy, a great motor for the GT2, and OS reliability and easy tunning.

ImGoinRCn

Scuffing and gluing the diff rings down is an old pan car trick. I personally just use a touch of stelth lube on the rings to hold them in place and never scuff the rings. I just follow what Associated has to say about building a diff. They are the experts.

As far as getting a gear ratio, it's spur gear divided by your pinion times your final drive in the transmission. I suppose it works the same way for a gas truck. Spur divided by your clutchbell times the gearbox(4.09).

Hope this helps and if I need corrected, please post it.

Wide Open

it all depends on the diameter of the gears, and that compound idler gear probably makes it a little difficult to figure out. thats why i leave the calculating to associated also, you can do it the easy way and see how many times the spur rotates when you turn the wheels around one time.

dannthenitroman

or make the diff gear cont for one and times everyhting together. works easily.

Dann

ImGoinRCn

That's why I stay all electric...lol...if it wasn't for winning this truck, I wouldn't have another nitro. Too much invested in electric.

tattguy12

o.k this is this first time i've encountered this problem hopefully someone can help..my steering servo is turning the opposite way than it should.But if i switch it on the rx so its normal then the throttle servo reverses itself???if anyone understands what I'm saying can you tell me what to do?

Thanks.

Wide Open

wait, so when you tell the transmitter to reverse the steering servo it reverses the throttle instead? you sure youre changing the right channel?

xenergyx

Wide Open - Thanks for the tire suggestions.. I went with the Dirt Hawgs (those were the ones I had been looking at), and so far they are awesome on asphalt.

My first time gluing tires, I was able to balance out the back tires simply by ballooning them after they were set, but after 2 tanks of driving around the fronts are still lumpy...

Cant figure out for the life of me how to get them to have an even surface and haven't had much luck searching the forums or articles here....



I realize now the next thing I will need (fingers crossed that I dont wreck first) is a wheelie bar. After removing the carb reducer, getting 20% nitro, adjusting the throttle travel on the remote, and getting new tires the truck rips...

Off the line it has yet to wheelie, but once its moving theres no telling when the front end may lift up.

I did pretty good tonight, only hit 270° F one time, then richened the fuel and held it between 240° & 258° F

Did a few flips & rolls. A family stopped to watch me drive around the parking lot and when I tried to show off the truck picked up and did a perfectly flip & roll combination to come out pointed straight in the direction it was going...

The back end is still light enough to slide around on hard turns in most cases... Although when you gun it in a hard turn the wheels are sure to catch.

Ended up buying 2 sets of rims, 1 set of tires. The way I drive it on asphalt I'm probably gonna need to buy some road tires for it so my dirt tires will last.

I'm thinking of getting the Proline 'crowd pleaser' body because it looks a lot more aerodynamic...

I always wanted some yellow rims, but could never find any for my Stampede...

Wide Open

i got my front tires to smooth out fairly well by driving it off road. the impacts and different conditions force the tires to soften and round out more.

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

Do you have tiny holes in the rims to allow air to get in there. That might help the tires even out.

Wide Open

our thread was revived.
anyway, the holes might help a little bit, but just testing it right now revealed that air seems to circulate just fine.

ftt4maniac

Just got my factory team gt2, bought a sirio .12 engine non-pull, rpm front and rear arms. I cannot wait to run her.

Wide Open

you should enjoy it. i liked building my kit! (it went together in 2 days, also)

AE Pilot

Xenergyx, I've always wondered exactly what shade of blue the NEM arms were and they look nice on your ST. I opted for the silver arms from Hot Racing myself.

In regard to the tires, I found that "kneading" them like dough helped a bit. When we're not at the track practicing, we use Speed Hawg and Road Rage tires mounted on 2 sets of HPI wheels for on-road use and we had the same problem with them running out-of-round. At the track, we use Dirt Hawgs mounted on the factory dish wheels, which are great.

As for wheelies, our engine is dialed and we could never get it to wheelie off the line, but it has with a gearing ratio of 19/55. The only problem is, you obviously need a surface that will allow the tires to hook really well. You can also adjust the slipper clutch nut in 1/8 increments with the stock gearing to make it wheelie off the line and through the midrange. Personally, we only run that gearing for zipping around in parking lots.

We have most of the blue Factory Team upgrades and got one of the Nova cooling heads, which is great, but I sent Nova an email and suggested they post a disclaimer saying that substantial trimming to the body is needed after installing their head because it's so tall. I would have bought it anyway, but I was kinda ticked about having to trim the body.

We also got rid of the PS and got a TigerDrive, which makes priming and starting a breeze, but I suspect the TD is far heavier than the PS.

We have a Mugen pressure chamber that should be here today and hopefully, it will get rid of the low-end bogging we experience after refueling, which seems to be a problem with our ST. Since we already have a fuel filter, we gotta figure out a stealth spot on the upper deck to mount the chamber.

AE said about two more weeks on the FT muffler and we have one on order too.

Wide Open

i wonder how many people are actually going to get those because i have one on order too. i guess i can count it as my first hop up on this car when i get it though.

AE Pilot

I'd assume most of the RTR guys are going to get that pipe.

I missed what you have, WO, the FT kit or RTR?

Where do you run your machine, on-road, off-road, or quite a bit of both like me?

whoajoe

Here is that Dynamite engine Pro Twister Mods hinted at earlier in this thread. You can tell they made this engine directly for the GT2 because it is a rear exhaust, sg style crank. Also, Dynamite's last line of .12 engines were either for the XXX-NT or the GT by the crank length, so now, with their new line of "Platinum" engines, they made one to GT2 specs, and another to XXX-NT specs.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You know, now that I looked over what I just typed, that is very confusing, so disregard that if it doesn't make sense, but if you know what I am saying than you get what I am saying right?[sm=confused.gif]

Anyway, I will probably get this when I hopefully get my FT GT2 in May. The only problem is that a guy at the local track runs Dynamite .12's and he says that they like to be run at around 270 degrees F, which I don't know about you, but seems really hot. Alright, I am done ranting.

[link]http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYNP5202[/link]
[link]http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=DYNP5202[/link]

ftt4maniac

Finally got my gt2 ft together, this thing is a work of art, almost scared to go run it.......... NAH i am going to beat the hell out of it

Jasonaudio317

I have had my Factory RC10 GT for bout a week now and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for a good racing gear ratio. Right now I have a 66 spur and a 19 clutch bell. Seems to be geared real high cause it wont even try to pick the front wheels up. But on the other hand it seems to scream on the top end. The track I am tryed to run on has a few medium straights, but I need an all round gear for the corners and for the straights. Any suggestions?

Wide Open

ive got the FT kit. ive mostly been running it on road lately getting it ready for the track. i have had some time to run it off road, though.

AE Pilot

If I'm not mistaken, the internal gearing ratio on the RC10's is different than the GT2's, so you might want to check out the following thread:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_796271/tm.htm

xenergyx

Yeah my wheels have air holes in them from the factory... I may have just glued them poorly since it was my first time but I've got a lot more driving to do before I can give up on them smoothing out...

I couldn't wait anymore for my FT "Smoothy" muffler... 2 more weeks? I'll probably still order one when it's in stock....

I bought one of the "Outlaw racing pipes" off of ebay despite what I read about them on this site... I figured for 30$ it was worth the shot... I'm not too concerned about how loud it may be....


My car is still all over the place at times on smooth, level asphalt... I finally got the steering straight but that still wasn't enough. The RTR shocks came with way too much air in them. I think if I rebuilt them it might smooth & balance the suspension out enough to keep it somewhat more stable...

Basically even if I give it a lot of throttle, but not enough to wheelie, it will try to swerve left & right rather than just move forward in a straight line. Perhaps its because the front wheels are on the ground but the front end is still lifting up and extending the shock arms out and I'm losing a lot of front wheel traction.

The only reason I'm not smoking my friend's Revo 2.5 off the line is I cant keep my truck straight enough accelerate at what its capable of.

What do I need? weights in the front? is it just because of how loose the steering setup is with all the ball&cup connections?

I cant figure it out. [:@]


Oh... and I was wondering what anyone thought about this:
http://jconcepts.net/shop/product_in...roducts_id/211

Any benefits to a carbon fiber brake disc?