*~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
#477
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
That body is super funky [8D] !!! Nice work...
Who would have thought that on a metal gear servo they would make the smallest gear out of plastic?
So much for the servo saver too... Didn't save this time.
Time to see if an old airtronics servo will work for me if I wanna bash today....
AE S1903 MG:
Who would have thought that on a metal gear servo they would make the smallest gear out of plastic?
So much for the servo saver too... Didn't save this time.
Time to see if an old airtronics servo will work for me if I wanna bash today....
AE S1903 MG:
#478
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
man thats kinda crappy xenergyx and nice paint job there ImGoinRCn Think you just made up my mind on the next body. Your pics finally showed me some good shots of it!
#480
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
Looks like my truck is saved by a Traxxas servo until I can figure out what radio gear I want...
Just like to take this moment to say I'm really surprised how strong this truck really is...
I went back to the stock suspension arms, moved up to an alluminum bulk, and I haven't broken anything since..
I've done cartwheel flips at top speed and now blown out my steering servo by some sort of bump at top speed, but everything else has been solid all throughout.
My wheelie bar has been bent pretty badly but it has at least protected other things. The alluminum its made from is so soft that some of it was actually sheared off on the bottom and I was able to pull off the sliver that remained. My GT2 really only does wheelies on asphalt with Dirt Hawgs which I dont really run anymore but the bar gives protection in every situation so its staying for now.
Lets see how it handles at the abandoned air field today....
Just like to take this moment to say I'm really surprised how strong this truck really is...
I went back to the stock suspension arms, moved up to an alluminum bulk, and I haven't broken anything since..
I've done cartwheel flips at top speed and now blown out my steering servo by some sort of bump at top speed, but everything else has been solid all throughout.
My wheelie bar has been bent pretty badly but it has at least protected other things. The alluminum its made from is so soft that some of it was actually sheared off on the bottom and I was able to pull off the sliver that remained. My GT2 really only does wheelies on asphalt with Dirt Hawgs which I dont really run anymore but the bar gives protection in every situation so its staying for now.
Lets see how it handles at the abandoned air field today....
#481
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
heres the servo im using for steering in my truck. its cheap and it works great.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDEM1&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDEM1&P=0
#482
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
hey guys i think i will get this for my first car, is there anything i need to know about it?
and what should my next upgrades be, my friend is getting the firestorm and i want to beat it.
and what should my next upgrades be, my friend is getting the firestorm and i want to beat it.
#483
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
glad you decided to join the Blue Team!
in new also but the best adivce i've gotten so far is to enjoy your truck, follow the break in instructions very closely, and then when something breaks upgrade it if you can or feel its needed.
i also have the RTR kit and the only upgrade i would go back on now is the alluminum bulkhead i bought (but im still waiting on), because im going to get RPM front arms on it and they use there own bulkhead. other then that from what ive been told most all of the FT upgrade parts are money well spent!
in new also but the best adivce i've gotten so far is to enjoy your truck, follow the break in instructions very closely, and then when something breaks upgrade it if you can or feel its needed.
i also have the RTR kit and the only upgrade i would go back on now is the alluminum bulkhead i bought (but im still waiting on), because im going to get RPM front arms on it and they use there own bulkhead. other then that from what ive been told most all of the FT upgrade parts are money well spent!
#484
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
Hey when did we pick colors and go with blue?
Yeah if you go RTR just be sure to remove the white plastic carb restrictor and that will make the most difference without having to spend another dime. The Factory Team upgrade parts are nice to add over time, the lightened outdrive hubs for one will help lighten the load on the drivetrain but that is a very small difference...
The alluminum front bulkhead, front hinge pin brace, and chassis brace are definitely the most important after that, as long as you aren't going to use the RPM arms like n00bie said. The Factory Team shocks are nice, but instead of buying those I would just suggest rebuilding the RTR shocks and ensuring they are air-free, mine weren't, and getting blue alluminum caps to replace the stock plastic shock caps... Other than that, most of the FT parts are more cosmetic than functional but if you want to spend the money they sure wont stop you. I for one am not about to shell out nearly $20 for the annodized front servo mounts, my plastic ones are fine...
Steer clear of aftermarket alluminum parts.... The only parts that should be alluminum are the ones AE makes. You put on alluminum arms and then the bulkhead they are attached to will break. You put in an alluminum bulkhead then next crash the whole front end breaks off. You put on the alluminum front chassis brace and next crash your alluminum arms bend and can no longer be used. When with the stock parts your truck will survive most bad crashes with minimal if any damage so long as you dont crash straight into a wall. Even the stock arms are pretty durable, though I'd imagine the RPM arms are even better.
The truck is made to flex and bend so that parts dont break for the most part, but of course nothing is perfect.
Definitely upgrade the air filter and keep it clean & oiled, that is a major help in having a consistantly smooth running engine for the life of your truck.
Get the AE Smoothy pipe #7995 whenever they start making parts again....
Tires... A couple people here liked Proline Dirt Hawgs so I went with them and they are indeed some great tires for all terrain...
If you aren't racing use one of your allen wrenches to remove the screw & big white plastic plug from inside of the fuel tank... It is a volume reducer that limits the tank size to the ROAR legal 75cc, remove it and you will get the full advertised 82cc's...
Other than that, it couldn't hurt to go back to page 1 and read the whole thread, if you haven't already, so you will be all caught up and possibly even answer some more of your questions. [sm=thumbup.gif]
Yeah if you go RTR just be sure to remove the white plastic carb restrictor and that will make the most difference without having to spend another dime. The Factory Team upgrade parts are nice to add over time, the lightened outdrive hubs for one will help lighten the load on the drivetrain but that is a very small difference...
The alluminum front bulkhead, front hinge pin brace, and chassis brace are definitely the most important after that, as long as you aren't going to use the RPM arms like n00bie said. The Factory Team shocks are nice, but instead of buying those I would just suggest rebuilding the RTR shocks and ensuring they are air-free, mine weren't, and getting blue alluminum caps to replace the stock plastic shock caps... Other than that, most of the FT parts are more cosmetic than functional but if you want to spend the money they sure wont stop you. I for one am not about to shell out nearly $20 for the annodized front servo mounts, my plastic ones are fine...
Steer clear of aftermarket alluminum parts.... The only parts that should be alluminum are the ones AE makes. You put on alluminum arms and then the bulkhead they are attached to will break. You put in an alluminum bulkhead then next crash the whole front end breaks off. You put on the alluminum front chassis brace and next crash your alluminum arms bend and can no longer be used. When with the stock parts your truck will survive most bad crashes with minimal if any damage so long as you dont crash straight into a wall. Even the stock arms are pretty durable, though I'd imagine the RPM arms are even better.
The truck is made to flex and bend so that parts dont break for the most part, but of course nothing is perfect.
Definitely upgrade the air filter and keep it clean & oiled, that is a major help in having a consistantly smooth running engine for the life of your truck.
Get the AE Smoothy pipe #7995 whenever they start making parts again....
Tires... A couple people here liked Proline Dirt Hawgs so I went with them and they are indeed some great tires for all terrain...
If you aren't racing use one of your allen wrenches to remove the screw & big white plastic plug from inside of the fuel tank... It is a volume reducer that limits the tank size to the ROAR legal 75cc, remove it and you will get the full advertised 82cc's...
Other than that, it couldn't hurt to go back to page 1 and read the whole thread, if you haven't already, so you will be all caught up and possibly even answer some more of your questions. [sm=thumbup.gif]
#485
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
thanks man!
and i have been getting a few Pm's saying that the xxx-nt would be a better choice, is that true?
and which FT part would add more top speed and acceleration?
and i have been getting a few Pm's saying that the xxx-nt would be a better choice, is that true?
and which FT part would add more top speed and acceleration?
#486
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
i looked at the xxxnt but i went with the GT2 because of there long winning history with the GT1 and the small number of changes that they made i think is a sort of testament to its design.
there is some trucks that look beefier and theres trucks that go faster but i plan on racing at some point and will need a mix of both to win.
as far as acceleration the first thing is to pull the restrictor out of the carb when your done breaking it in then read everythign you can about tuning it (actually do this before you open the box), every time you go out in diffrent weather youll need to make a small change to get the best power and acceleration
and for top speed go with higher ratio(? may be lower but you know what i mean) gearing. And both of those are free to do.
there is some trucks that look beefier and theres trucks that go faster but i plan on racing at some point and will need a mix of both to win.
as far as acceleration the first thing is to pull the restrictor out of the carb when your done breaking it in then read everythign you can about tuning it (actually do this before you open the box), every time you go out in diffrent weather youll need to make a small change to get the best power and acceleration
and for top speed go with higher ratio(? may be lower but you know what i mean) gearing. And both of those are free to do.
#487
RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: new-to-RC
thanks man!
and i have been getting a few Pm's saying that the xxx-nt would be a better choice, is that true?
and which FT part would add more top speed and acceleration?
thanks man!
and i have been getting a few Pm's saying that the xxx-nt would be a better choice, is that true?
and which FT part would add more top speed and acceleration?
I've practiced at 2 oval tracks with it and it was pretty much the fastest and well handling AND the carb restrictor is STILL IN the carb.
Parts I'd get...Maybe the RPM bumper, and maybe those a-arm/bulkhead combo someone mentioned. I don't abuse mine stuff but I'm no sloutch on the track either. I also plan to race it offroad some this spring/summer too.
#490
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ok the rt10gt2 it is! i cant wait
and i have a shop i will take the car to when i get it and they will tune it for me, my friend took his car there and they did a good job. while it is there ill tell them to take out the restrictor
and i have a shop i will take the car to when i get it and they will tune it for me, my friend took his car there and they did a good job. while it is there ill tell them to take out the restrictor
#491
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
The stock clutchbell options are 19, 20 & 21 teeth....
new-to-RC - tuning is an everyday thing. I'd recommend reading up online about it as much as you can and then read the manual when you get it and try to do everything yourself. The shop can always help you get out of a bind but since its something you will need to know how to do anyways you will learn quicker if you read up and try it for yourself. Like most things, if you follow the instructions (so long as they are good instructions ) exactly then everything will work as it's should.
new-to-RC - tuning is an everyday thing. I'd recommend reading up online about it as much as you can and then read the manual when you get it and try to do everything yourself. The shop can always help you get out of a bind but since its something you will need to know how to do anyways you will learn quicker if you read up and try it for yourself. Like most things, if you follow the instructions (so long as they are good instructions ) exactly then everything will work as it's should.
#492
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ok thanks thats a good idea but right when i knew what i was getting someone said that the hot bodies gt10 was just as good if not better for a beginner and it is $90 less, anything bad about that car?
sorry for all the which car questions on the rc10gt2 section, ill post no more untill i decide which car i will get for sure
sorry for all the which car questions on the rc10gt2 section, ill post no more untill i decide which car i will get for sure
#493
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
The GT2 definitely has my endorsement, but realistically, you should get whatever machine your local shop carries the most parts for. You'll find shops that cater to Team Losi, Team Associated, HPI Racing, Traxxas, etc., but in the realm of 10th scale ST racers, Associated and Losi have a prominent track history.
Parts availability has kept us from owning a few different RC's that we would liked to have purchased. Breaking parts is inevitable and online turn-around time isn't always as quick as we'd like it to be, so again, parts support should be your number one priority.
IMO, Team Associated and Team Losi make the best purpose-built ST's out there, hands down, bar none. You can't go wrong with either one.
Cheers
Parts availability has kept us from owning a few different RC's that we would liked to have purchased. Breaking parts is inevitable and online turn-around time isn't always as quick as we'd like it to be, so again, parts support should be your number one priority.
IMO, Team Associated and Team Losi make the best purpose-built ST's out there, hands down, bar none. You can't go wrong with either one.
Cheers
#494
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
lol i just re-read my post i was refering to removing the restrictor and learing to tune well on your own sorry for the sloppy writing
#495
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ok then GT2 since it comes with a radio and i found it for $260, with the stuff i need about $275 im guessing
now its just time to get more money
now its just time to get more money
#498
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
i cant find anybody who knows anything about the hot bodies lightning stadium? can anyone help me out if not i think i will go with the firestorm
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: Wide Open
heres the servo im using for steering in my truck. its cheap and it works great.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDEM1&P=0
heres the servo im using for steering in my truck. its cheap and it works great.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDEM1&P=0
#500
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RE: *~ Official RC10GT2 Thread ~*
ORIGINAL: hpircing4321
i cant find anybody who knows anything about the hot bodies lightning stadium?
i cant find anybody who knows anything about the hot bodies lightning stadium?