MetallicaJunkie

ok ive done enough research and im set on the jato 3.3

are there any parts that are prone to breaking? that way when i order it, i can also order a few popular spare parts?


thanks

new member here


ed

360pod

a arms and rear shock tower break if your a basher.

juice3183

A arms, shock towers, anti squat block, and top chassis plate.. Oh and you should order some spare proline tires. after 1/2 hour of runnin tires were gone.

MAMMOTH TOUGH

I would say tires will roast right off and a-arms are a good thing to get for any rc but there is nothing weak about the JATO 3.3 it is built well

Woodmandan2

Hey
um well i would get a new throttle servo or steering servo because if you gunn it the mounts will just fly off. unfourtantely for me i am running off a servo with superglued mounts, some duct tape and some plastic i found. Lol
Dan

MetallicaJunkie

ww that was a very detialed picture sorry to see it broke

thanks for the input

KillerKiwi

DO NOT BUY THE ALUMINUM PARTS!!! If you buy the aluminum parts the pressure from crashing will be transfered to another possibly more expensive part. No matter how many aluminum parts you buy, One parts will always break. The best all around type of material to build an RC vehicle out of is plastic. Nobody knows the Jato better than the engineers who designed it, the engineers put the best type of every part into the Jato they built the jato out of high quality plastic and made the A-arms thin so that during a crash the force and pressure would be absorbed by them when the break. They made the roll hoop the way it is so that an impact would cause the sides of it to stretch outward and snap absorbing the force and protecting all the other parts. The only parts that are OK to buy are the ones at the Traxxas website and [link=http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=2734]this one[/link], this front chassis reinforcing plate will neutralize bumps by transferring them directly to the 3mm aluminum under chassis (the strongest part) this will lower the stress on the car and prolong it's life. Other than that, buying Imex wheels and tires is good too.

MetallicaJunkie

i agree with you, but it is nice t see aluminum..... ill save my money for fuel

R_man_5k

My Feedback: (14)

for the a-arms ... just get the ones from RPM and you will be set. Also for the top plates... if you get the Traxxas upgrade chassis for the Jato you will be fine. I broke a few top plates. then I switched to the upgrade chassis since then I have not broken any. I run that chassis on both of my Jatos.

thundir3

Killerkiwi, i agree with you on that you should replace plastic parts with aluminum but Traxxas has some serious issues with their plastic injection molding process. I went through 3 shock towers before I found one that did not have some major inclusion or defect. RPM are the best for quality of plastic parts, and they are engineered better than the Traxxas parts.

Drvrswntd

Con rods

46u

My Feedback: (3)

It is a Traxxas and will not run long with out RPM. LOL[sm=wink_smile.gif]

NitroSport22

holy ****...did u drop that jato out of a plan at 30 thousand feet?

schattzie

i just got a jato3.3 my second truck had a nitro rustler sold it to buy this just wondering
i noticed the left rear wheel is toed-in quite a bit more than the right rear
cant get it to track straight contacted traxxas and all they said was i bashed it no help
i just got it broke in any ideas? thanks!

R_man_5k

My Feedback: (14)

really? it is not very often that I hear Traxxas CS not being helpfull.

was it like that out of the box? have you adjusted the turnbuckels?

schattzie

i didnt notice it out of the box they said there is no adjustment
where and how do you adjust turnbuckles? thanks

desertfoxf40

there is a way to fix the toe angle on the jato rear. mine had it real bad on the right side. if yours is bad on the right side, unscrew the turnbuckle from the rear of the transmission mount and take a flashlight to look. as u look u can see there are a fer holes where u can put the turnbuckle for adjustments but 1 inparticular isthe one closest to the transmission. it has a little allen screw in it. take it out and mount your turnbuckle there. that way u can adjust your turnbuckle now by turning it outward with your tool. makes a big difference. this is for schattzie

nastyboys727

if you do any alloy i would say the four corners to stifin up the wheel wobble and the 2 break armes and the 2speed thing in the tranny i got a modded 3.3 in mine and i had to do all my gears in my tranny coz turned all my gears in to dust oh yea and clutch shoes to

moe7404

on the con rod. i have an idea i might be wrong, but heres my idea. dont run the engine at top rpm for more than 3-4 seconds. just an idea. if iam right maybe i can save an engine.

1QwkSport2.5r

If the engine is broke in properly, IMO, it isnt going to matter. I've ran my 3.3's at WOT for longer than 4 seconds and I never had any conrod problems. I'll almost guarantee a split conrod is caused by improper break-in.

motorhead91

the trans is junk

moe7404

TO: 1QwkSport2.5r thanks for you idea. like i said i might be wrong. i respect your experience.

E-JATO

As far as engine questions go I got rid of the nitro and went brushless and my jato is faster than my friends 3.3 all day long. as far as parts go most people are correct in saying the control arms if bashing Id say go RPM;s all around. Swap the front caster block and knucles for the rustler front end that way you have better choice of rims since all four will be hex's. Next thing if your doing jumps and a beginer buy some steering servo's the plastic gears love to strip if landing wrong this past week I stripped 2 servo gears. Hope that helps

proanti1

My Feedback: (2)

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