nitro-rob

I read a good review on that truck. What shape is the engine in? I am paranoid of engine condition with used trucks.

I have stayed off the bay for about six weeks now. The goal is to get down to my three favorite trucks from the ten left (13 at christmas).

The next purchase is a DX3 but want to buy it new and find the LHS competitive so I will get it there.

Still waiting to drive here....

241 racing

My Feedback: (20)

Rob, engine and jp pipe are new and yes the Muggy is a awsome truck.I buy blown engines all the time,sometimes I get them for next to nothing.When I get about 5 of them I send the pistons and sleaves to RayaRacing and get resized.Costs me between $15- 20 per engine shipped,it's a great way to get good Os,lrp's ect for a 1/4 of the actual new price.Look at there site it's pretty good reading.

I finally had a couple good days of weather last week so got to drive a bit.I finished break in on my mt2 and gst and both run great with no issues.I drove a few tanks through my Aftershock with new ht pipe and wow what a difference that made.It was nice to actually be able to drive and not freeze doing so.I'm ready for spring no dought but were looking at more snow tonight so it's not gonna be anytime soon.I'm getting the Storm back together since all my parts are finally made.

I need to downsize aswell but for some reason can't do it.I sell one or two and just end up replacing with another one within a day or two kinda addicted you know.I would like to get down to 3 mt's instead of 6,3 cars instead of 5,3 st's instead of 8 thats my goal.I'm good on buggys but need to downsize the rest.

fasty

ok guys I need your help I am going to upgrade my motor. but not sure what 1.
what I want is a derect drop in. i can make motor mounts.what moter do you all recomend. I see the 18 cr-vx but I dont want to do the shaft change.
and what parts will I need for the motor you are pointing me to. like clutch flywheel or can i use the stock flywheel.
I am willing to pay 100- 150 for the motor.and I am going to buy new so please dont try to sell me old motors.

bushhiker

you don't need to do a do a shaft change just screw this in front of the flywheel as you would the regular nut.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXM720&P=6

NitroNate

Correct,but its not that simple.About 1/4 inch has to come off the shaft before you put it on.Just search CV-RX Firestorm and my write-up should be on there somwhere...

JonKBMW

Hey guys - got a new problem with my firestorm. I turn the car on and turn the transmitter on and the front steering wheels shoot to the far right and doesnt respond to any input. The throttle does respond, but it seems to have somewhat of a mind of its own - it will open and close, but it sort of flutter a bit. Like if I hold it wide open, it will go about wide open and then sort of open and close a little bit.

So it almost seems like theres weak batteries, so I replaced them in the transmitter and car, no dice. I cleaned the contact area some in the battery packs of the car and no dice. Its weird. If I turn the car on, the wheels stay put, if I turn the transmitter on after the car, the wheels shoot to the right. Turning the steering back and forth they don't move.

Any ideas?

ambassador27

Jon,
Are you using a Failsafe? I've heard of that same problem using alkaline 6 volts with a failsafe built for NiCd or NiMh 4.8 volts and vice versa, check the instructions..
Also check your RX and TX crystals and make sure they have a tight fit..

JonKBMW

Nah no fail safes I am using 100% stock radio I will check the crystals tomorrow. How do I do that?

fasty

will that pilot shaft fit on this motor?[link=http://www.advantagehobby.com/product.php?productid=39867&cat=389&page=1]os 12 [/link] thanks for your help too.
I want a 12 so I can race @ this track this summer.

ambassador27

Jon,
Have you gotten the car wet, gone through puddles, snow, any way moisture may have gotten into the electronics in the car? That sounds more like the case, I've had this happen with my old electrics, pull the receiver open it up and dry it out, you'll find the crystal while you're there...

scobeh

does anybody know what the part # is for the theaded rod that the slipper spring and nut go on to is or where to get one

JonKBMW

I will give that a shot tomorrow - I did get it pretty stuck up with snow. In fact the reason I had to stop playing with it in the snow was because the throttle linkage was iced up

stevage

Alright guys this is my first post.
I recently changed to a Savage clutch two shoe setup and i have been having a problem with my clutch engaging on idle.For some reason it would seem like the clutch bell diameter isn't wide enough which is why it does that.
Should i just go back to orignal firestorm clutch shoes or is there a simple fix with the two shoe setup?The reason i went with the savage shoes is because i had a problem with the FS shoe spring snapping.

nitro-rob

Stevage,
Welcome to the forum. Does the clutch bell turn freely or is there resistance? I wonder if the springs are too loose or not connected properly making them engage too quickly. The Savage clutches should fit.

stevage

Yes there is resistance when i turn it.Might just have to get a new set of springs once and see if it makes a difference.

nitro-rob

Assuming the springs are installed right and the clutch shoes are tightly compressed things should not be rubbing. Do you have a buildup on the clutch bell that is making the shoes make contact? Make sure you have a shim between the bearing and the clutch inside the clutch bell as well.

If all that checks out, get a measurement of the outer diameter of the 'circle' the shoes are in at rest and measure the inside diameter of the clutch bell.

JonKBMW

Ok so I replaced my diff oil with 120k weight (still doesnt seem to be enough "lock up" by turning the wheels by hand..) and turned the radio and receiver on. Now instead of the wheels pointing all the way to the right, they respond to input from the steering but they go back and forth lol all on their own. Hrm. Gonna have to start taking stuff apart.

stevage

Alright,i'll do that.
Thanks nitro-rob

bushhiker

Could some one please tell me how to do the heat-cycle method to break in a CV-RX.

ambassador27

Jon,
Go dry out your receiver and that will probably solve your erratic controling problems..
If your going to run your Storm in wet or snow you need to seal up the RX, Tamiya used to make a great ballon for this,
not sure if they still make them but I'm sure other companies do, it's worth looking into..

JonKBMW

Thanks - I will take a look at it tomorrow. Is that receiver replaceable? The servos all work - I didn't see the HPI part on tower. I don't want to have to rewire the whole truck, but if I have to replace the receiver so be it

nitro-rob

The receiver is easily replacable, just remove the wires and pull it out. You can get them for about 20 or less on the bay if you are patient.

bushhiker

When I was removing flywheel to replace the engine I acdently streched a clutch spring now its bent. I have the savage three-shoe. Will this work I think its the same diameter?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNYY3&P=7

JonKBMW

Ok I have figured my issue out to be the actual servo. I swapped the servo from my RS4 (not swapped, but just plugged it in while it was still in the RS4) and the servo moves properly. It seems like the Firestorm steering servo is messed up - as soon as I plug it in it start oscillating back and forth. It looks like the same servo on the RS4 so I am going to try swapping them. Can I purchase a replacement servo or is there an upgrade that fits without modifying the Firestorm? What's the best steering servo out there that would fit?

241 racing

My Feedback: (20)

Decient servos Futaba 3305,Hitec 645,Jr 560 all of these are metal geared high torq bb servos and can be found on the bay cheap 30 or so.A Futaba 0003 will also work and is a little better than the sf one and can be had for 10 bucks or so.