hollow_point

hey guys, just wondering what a good set of street tires would be for this thing. im gonna use the stock tire/wheel setup for off-road, but would like a set of on-road tires to go with it as well

xjwellsx

road warrior what spring are you talking about

wileecoyote

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XJWELL, he's speaking of the clutch-shoe holder spring. Its inside of the clutch bel and surrounds your clutch shoes allowing them to open and close when on or off the power.

nitro-rob

Proline Road Rage II tires are pretty good. Remember that street tires usually have a lower profile so you will lose some speed and gain acceleration.

manuel frias

i was looking at a new engine for my firestorm and i picked the O.S. 21VG(P) ABL 21F Slide Carburetor what elce will i need for my big block convrsion? is this a good engine? and many people said i will need to shim my diffs where do i get these shims whats the part number. also how fast do you think my car will go wit hthis engien and stock gearing.

HPIguy597

I'm using the Proline Speed Hawgs. They dont get much traction, but aregreat for slides and drifts!

tomtom9649

Hey guys, how well does this radio system work in the firestorm. Thanks [link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWPW0&P=0[/link]

nitro-rob

Manuel,
I just put that engine in my firestorm. Read the past twenty pages or so, there has been a lot of discussion about big block conversions including gearing and differentials.

nitro-rob

Tomtom - Its a lower end 2.4ghz system which is better than any AM or FM system you can buy. Should work fine in the storm.

wileecoyote

My Feedback: (1)

Seems like this shouldnt be the official Firestorm thread, maybe the official BIGBLOCK Firestorm thread! I love it, everyones gettin into the BB game. TOMTOM, I was looking at that system myself. Should work fine, if you get one let us know how you like it.

nitro-rob

It is almost worth having a second thread. I have been thinking of making a firestorm webpage that contains all the technical information in the forum. Its hard to justify since I struggle to find time to drive. I am making a website for work and once thats complete I will be up to a technical level to make one...its on the backburner for now but my interest is there.

hollow_point

awesome thanks for the replies guys, that was exactly what i was looking for. i really just want something to have fun with on the pavement and mix it up from the off road use it will get.

wileecoyote

My Feedback: (1)

NITROROB, That is a great idea. I know its alot of work and since your looking for time to drive it would be last up. I thought of creating a file with all the little tricks Ive learned as well as settings, ideas and so forth. Then I could link it so others could see it. Im not so sure I know how to do it all but maybe you do? Just a thought. I really have been taught quite a bit here on the forum and think it has made me a better RC'er all the way around. So with that in mind, THANKYOU ALL! Pretty cool. Iam real close to being able to break in the new motor. Had to mount the exhaust in an unorthodox way, (well not really) it keeps the stock body from fitting. Im going to try my hand at making a roll cage. Then probably just run the truck like that. How has yours progressed? You had mentioned having power to spare, I am sooo wanting to tap into the top end of the Axial motor! Ill be keeping it on road like the RWARRIOR did. Im trying to convince the locals at the track to allow me to run with them. I would get my ass kicked for awhile at least until I got the handling down. For right now Im reserved to being a speed junkie.

nitro-rob

My truck is at the stage where its done and broken in with little more that I will do to it. Complete happiness. I have a few more aluminum parts to come in and want a better header, but other than that I don't foresee any more changes. Its a great basher and all my fears of an unmanageable and unreliable truck have vanished (knock on wood). My next step is to work on my savage which has some aftermarket on in but not nearly enough and just enjoy the storm as it is unless RPM or somebody gets their act together and makes cool shock towers and A-arms. Any other suggestions for mods are welcome, I'm pretty stumped right now.

Its been raining so I didn't get a chance to take the truck out and get some video....this week.

shori1992

hey i have a slight problem with my car i went to take off the cooling head to replace it with a nova racing cooling head put my alen key ball end snapped in the bolt and is stuck in there anyone have any ideas how i wud remove it and can any1 tell me how to make it easier in the future i think i might need to drill it out but dont want to make a any big dissisions and end up screwing the engine up many thanks

hollow_point

just curious as to how long it took you guys to break in your firestorm. i should be getting mine this week sometime and was just looking at what to expect in terms of break in times

manuel frias

So now I need a new pipe and a egzost header for my o.s 21vg engine do you guys know of the most inaxpensive pipe and header that will fit.

HPIguy597

You can do your first tank just idling, second tank driving in small circles at 1/4 throttle, third tank 1/2 throttle, fourth tank 1/2-3/4 speed passes and circles, and fifth thank do a mix of all of them and you should be good to go.

nitro-rob

Shori - so the end of the allen wrench is stuck in the bolt head? I would try to tap it with a long 'chisel' or something that can make contact with it and use the shock to break it loose. Its probably locked into the hex and just needs to move a little.

I picked up a DX3s today and can't wait to use it.

nitro-rob

Here is a link on the heat cycle method that is pretty good if you are interested in trying it http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=397. The key is to run the engine at break in settings between 200-220F for a few minutes then let it cool with the piston at bottom dead centre. I usually have to use aluminum foil and a heat gun to maintain the temperature. This method makes the engine break in at the temperature you would normally run the engine at so the cylinder is expanded to the right size when being broken in. The method in the manual breaks in at a much lower temperature.

Regardless of how you break the engine in, it will take half a gallon to be truly freed up. Don't rush it (ask Road Warrior).

hollow_point

thanks for the info, i may try the break in method you posted. theres a bunch of them out there and i just dont know what is the best. ill take a look at the manual as well when i get it. as for bdc, what is the importance of the piston being at the bottom of the sleeve after you run the engine? the way that it was described in the article helped me to figure out how to get the piston at bdc, but not as to why it must be there after each run

nitro-rob

The cylinder is tapered at the top and if the piston is left there when the engine cools it will no be able to contract to its proper size and eventually will be 'stretched'. When a piston and sleeve have too much tolerance its usually because the taper has been widened too far and you can get this pinched back into the ideal size again. The key to a well broken engine is to have the taper expand at operating temperature to produce a good seal with the piston. If the engine is broken in cool it will shave more off the cylinder or piston and then when its run at high temperature the extra expansion will lead to a lower tolerance between them.

hollow_point

yea i just figured that out after reading on the topic a bit more. makes much more sense now and i can see the physics behind it. im guessing once u make the mark on the flywheel, u just manually turn the wheels after a run and line up the mark on the flywheel to get it to bdc?

nitro-rob

You have to turn the flywheel to get to BDC. Its pretty obvious from turning the flywheel where BDC is just by feel. You don't need to be right at the bottom, just not in the taper which can be felt.

hollow_point

makes sense, thanks a lot. and ive heard it is pretty easy by feel to tell where the piston is in the sleeve so its prob not as difficult as i think it is