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-=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

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Old 11-28-2009, 03:09 PM
  #5176  
1ne8ighty2wo
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

What should I use the shim the diff gears? Will I be able to get it in a home depot/auto store?
And what kind of axle grease should I get, or is there just one kind?
Old 11-28-2009, 04:10 PM
  #5177  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

I believe they are 4mm washers maybe 3mm.When you take it apart they
may have a shim in there so you'll see what you need. Ive used axle grease from Autozone or white lithium. Its way cheaper than buying diff fluid but look on Tower and you'll see what the grease looks like. Just dont go crazy with it and make a mess. Im trying to get a pic or diagram for you. Give me a few.
Old 11-28-2009, 04:16 PM
  #5178  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

You will need hardened steel washers. They come in the differential gear kit from hpi. I don't know where else to get them. I don't know of another companies shim kit that will work.

I used 300k silicon diff grease in the firestorm but use regular automotive grease in my monster trucks. I prefer stiffer fluids in the differential to limit the slip more, the firestorm gave me a lot of diff steer before doing this.
Old 11-28-2009, 04:25 PM
  #5179  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

PREY, do you have the 'Storm manual? Page 39 has the diff shown and what your looking at is part number 86917 it shows the gear and the washers. Its the center set of gears that you'll shim. They show one on each side of each gear. (washer/shim) You can put two or try to find thicker shims. And yes, like I said you could use diff grease/fluid in the above mentioned weight or just use regular automotive grease. Let me know if you need the pic off the manual. I'll try to scan it and download to comp. I'll try it anyway.
Old 11-28-2009, 04:48 PM
  #5180  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

The manual can be downloaded from the HPI site.

http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/10510/
Old 11-28-2009, 07:59 PM
  #5181  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

I have the manual. thanks though. I'm not saying i'm not going to do it, but how important is shimming the diff and putting the grease/oil in? Is it just a performance thing, or is it necessary to keep if from breaking later on?

So far today i've removed everything in front of the engine. I tried getting the engine off by removing the mount screws from the underside, but I couldn't get them off for the life of me. And and I don't yet have access to the back of the engine so I can't get at the screws holding the engine to the mounts. I assume those would be better so I don't have to worry about the gear mesh getting messed up.

Anything else I should change or take a look at while I'm tearing it down and rebuilding? I'm going to be checking the engine for air leaks, just in case.
Old 11-28-2009, 11:41 PM
  #5182  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

The diff needs greased/cleaned periodically to keep it from breaking. It'll go a long way towards keeping it from breaking to grease it. so at least do that. I always just leave the motor mounts on and take the motor out with the mounts. The gear mesh is easy to set with the manual it shows you how to set it with a tab of paper between the spur gear and the clutch bell.
The engine probably dont need taken apart unless you know its leaking. It would run like crap if so. Have you had it apart before? If not, Id say leave it alone. Assuming you can get it back together with leaving it in place again, leave it there and make your clutch repair. go the easiest way for you, as you are doin the work.
I would stay away from junk parts though as the time and money you save from using quality stuff is worth the extra you spend on them. Remember, cheap may mean just that.
Old 11-29-2009, 12:44 AM
  #5183  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

So i got everything off the car except for the motor. The problem is that for the screws that attach the motor to the mounts in the back (under where the header attaches) the header mount is in the way so i can't get a good angle on the screw. I can get the one that is closest to the edge of the car, but the one on the inside is starting to strip. How should I go about getting  this off?

And I think I will grease it, but probably not shim it. I don't want to have to order a special kit to do something that I don't even know what i'm doing exactly. As for greasing, should I take everything apart and wipe out all the old grease, or just add the new stuff? And should I do it just inside the sealed diff, or on the gears outside of that, too?
Old 11-29-2009, 12:53 AM
  #5184  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

Take the motor off by removing the mounts from the chassis from the screws under the truck, its way easier. Clean and replace the grease.
Old 11-29-2009, 01:01 AM
  #5185  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

For me, it's easier because of the access. and it would be easier (able) to do with everything on. But the screws are stuck in place. I've tried with all my might and they don't budge. I think there's some strong loctite on there from the factory or something. Any way to loosen them up to make it easier?
Old 11-29-2009, 09:11 AM
  #5186  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

If you are using the allen keys that came with the truck you will have troubles with difficult bolts and likely strip the heads more often than if you have a set of hardened hex drivers. Integy makes a great set. Consider getting a set in the long run because otherwise you will be limited with the work you can do on the truck.
Old 11-29-2009, 09:13 AM
  #5187  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

If you want to take the motor off that way then remove the header. If the bold is stripping try to grab it with a pair of pliers or vice grip. Otherwise dremel a slot in the head and use a flt screwdriver.
Old 11-29-2009, 12:57 PM
  #5188  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

Yeah I am using the hex keys that came with it. And I don't really want to drop $25 plus on a set of hex drivers if this is the only problem i have come across so far.

And I did remove the header, but it's the little header mount that's in the way :/
Old 11-29-2009, 01:20 PM
  #5189  
manuel frias
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

hey guys im just wondering how much do you think my big block firestorm could sell for? i miss my hpi savage and im looking into geting another one. my firestorm has o.s 21 vg moter and tuned pipe that has had less then a gallon of fuel run thrue it. it seems to wheely at almost any speed.
Old 11-29-2009, 02:23 PM
  #5190  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

I dont know what you mean by little header mount.
Old 11-29-2009, 03:03 PM
  #5191  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

These pictures will help :]

So the screw that's circles is the problem screw. The header mount (i don't know if that's the real name, but that's all i can describe it as) is just in the way enough to make the allen key go at an angle so I can't get the right leverage on the screw without the key slipping out. I don't know who I was able to get the first one loose and and the second one not. But now, because of the bad angle, it's starting to strip the screw, and I think the hex wrench too because the paint is wearing off and the corners are getting rounded.
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Old 11-29-2009, 03:30 PM
  #5192  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

Grind off 3/16th of an inch off the end of the allen key an you will have no problem. I did this and it worked real good.
Old 11-29-2009, 03:32 PM
  #5193  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

That's a good idea. I'll try that. I just need i grinder. I have a friend who has one that I could borrow
Old 11-30-2009, 11:53 PM
  #5194  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

So that grinder idea was a success. thanks for it!

I got the engine removed all good and I took off the clutch bell and found my problem. The spring had broken and bent (1st picture). Now i've encountered a problem in taking off the flywheel. I can't get the pilot nut (i think that's what it's called, circled in red in the 2nd pic) off because the pegs on the flywheel don't let me get my t-wrench in far enough (3rd pic). Any way around this? I tried a vice grip and a crescent wrench but couldn't get it off. Should I just use more force on it?

Also, it may seem like a silly question, but how do you take off e-clips without breaking them? I'm taking apart the diff (easier than I thought, and I got some automotive grease for it) but there are a couple holding on some of the gears (like the one on the outside of the brake) so I can't clean and re-grease them.
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:02 AM
  #5195  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

Try a regular long socket or a pair of needle nose vice grips. To remove the flywheel you can just tap it off from behind but an alternative is to use a battery terminal puller, they are just the right size.
I remove c-clips using a very tiny flat head screwdriver. Put the tip between the pin the clip is on and the clip and push gently (its hard to describe, but there is only one direction to push a clip off). Shroud the area with a cloth of some sort in case the clip goes flying so you don't lose it. If you are slow and gentle the clip will just come off and thats it. To put the clip back on set it next to the pin it goes on and push it in with a pair or pliers.

An alternative to taking the gears out of the differential is to put some degreaser in it (briefly) and turn the gears and dump the degreaser out and let it dry. It will get 90% of the grease out which is likely enough. You may have to add degreaser a few times to get it clean. I also sometimes use a small brush with degreaser in it to loosen and lift the grease from the differential.
Old 12-01-2009, 12:09 AM
  #5196  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

I got the clip off. thanks for the tip. The rest of it will have to wait for tomorrow. I'll keep you posted on my progress
Old 12-05-2009, 10:57 PM
  #5197  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

I just installed an OS 21 vg bumpstart in my storm and was wondering if anyone knew of a starter box that fits the storm
Old 12-06-2009, 12:14 AM
  #5198  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

Would think any bump box woill work. you may have to modify the positioning pins to your Storm though.
Old 12-06-2009, 06:59 PM
  #5199  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

So I just finished assembling my ride after installing the new clutch, but i can't get it started. It seems like there's a loss of compression, as if the glow plug is out or loose. Usually, I can plug the stinger, turn the engine over once, and the fuel will start to flow to the carb. Now I have to to a hard, quick tug to get it to prime that way. Also, when I set the car down and pull on the pull start, it cranks the engine instead of lifting up the car.

When I took it apart, I took off the cooling head and the pipe. I'm thinking it's either that the gasket on the pipe is bad (it was ripped up a bit when I took it out) or i over tightened the head and maybe caused the sleeve to warp. Do you think it could be either one of these, or is there something else i should check?
Old 12-06-2009, 07:15 PM
  #5200  
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Default RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

Hey, im new to Nitro R/C cars, and i am thinking about getting a HPI firestorm. I have a few questions though.


Whats is the difference between a HPI firestorm and the HPI firestorm 10T, Are they the same, Whats the difference?
Whats the Firestorms Max speed out of the box (stock)?
Is this a good beginner car?

Thanks!


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