nitro-rob

Check the glow plug by taking it out and putting the ignitor on it. It should glow intensely.

I would recommend buying the appropriate connnectors to plug your battery straight into the trucks 2-prong plug. Its the easiest way to go and you can likely find parts for the adapters on other RC parts at a local shop. There is likely no straight adapter and you will have to make ones from parts. There is no way to solve your problem without soldering something so its up to you to decide to solder your battery wire or switch/harness wires or just solder up an adapter and wait for the first time you have your truck apart to replace the harness to get all the connectors match.

Don't be afraid to take your truck apart - likely you will have to do so often in the future. When you do I recommend getting a proper set of hex wrenches and not using the ones that come with the truck. Stripped bolt heads are a pain to deal with.

Zack!

Thanks for your help! Ill try coming up with all the parts and do some soldering. Checked the glow plug and it didnt light up. Just strange it would already be dead.

nitro-rob

They can go at any time. Are you sure your glow plug ignitor is good? Do you have another plug to try it on?

I find the two-prong connectors to be a pain and change them to the three/two (I think they are called futaba connectors) right away.

fire of the storm

would you sujest an aluminum front bulkhead? or would you stay with the plastic?

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

I would recommend rpm arms and aluminum mounts on the front and rear. See what rob says but I have had bad luck with plastic parts. Unless rpm has come out with bulkheads yet. I see that there is a different crowd of people in here with a few of the same questions. Still have the storm and keep a eye on the thread from time to time. I will post some up to date pictures in a week or so when I get the new motor for my sweet thing. Some stuff is new but still the same truck body though. I can wait this motor will make it look like it was stock before with the old .21 on it. I also shaved more weight. enough though you'll see it.

fire of the storm

yes im deffinitly going with the carbon arms front and rear...aluminum hubs and shock towers front and rear...hpi carbon two piece top plate since i crinkled mine up in the front at 40mph. but i was iffy about that piece between the top and main plate in the front if i should keep that plastic or go with aluminum...itegy makes them but they look cheap? im new to this so any help would be greatly appriciated. i just got this firestorm a few weeks ago. it has been sitting for about 2 years on 45 min of run time so im working out the bugs

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

You can go that route if you want to. Personally I think aluminum from integy is soft crap. For Aluminum on my truck I have the hubs, arms, arm mounts front and rear, brake lever, and front chassis support plate all from [link=http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/inccatalog.cgi?h=y&fitlist=1089&shortlist=0#]new era models[/link] I would do it all again but get the rpm arms. My truck will take a 60 mph cartwheel and keep on going now. Before I had broke the front end off just doing 5 mph hitting a curb just right without the chassis support. And the other weak spot is the crappy plastic arm mounts. They break real easy on any kind of roll. The little piece between the top and bottom plates in the front and the shock towers are not necessary seeing that I haven't broke them but if your wanting a little style go for it then.

fire of the storm

yea integy products just have that cheap look....when i see parts for the e-firestorm, those parts will also fit on the nitro right? like for the suspension and such? thank you for the input and quick reply

fire of the storm

warrior...i was playing around with my car in a parking lot and hit a curb head on at about 40 mph...made the top plate into an "s" shape and snapped that piece between the two plates. i may just go back with the stock one since i can get it for 8 dollars

Zack!

Im having problems satrting my truck. Glow plug is good. Glow pluge igniter is good. Gas is getting to the engine. The engine just doesnt seem like it wants to turn over. I pull so much but am scared im going to ruin the pullstarter.The back wheels start to spin for a second then stop. I constantly check to see if i flooded my engine so i know its not that. Do I need to adjust the idle? If so, how much and in what direction to i turn the idle screw

Zack!

Okay so i got it running but only when i was pulling down on the trigger on the remote half way. As soon as i released, the truck died. Then messed around with the servo throttle arm thinking it had something to do with that. Again it worked but, it would die as soon as i lowered the speed. Any idea what could be wrong?

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

Zack turn the idle screw on the front of the carb in a little bit and you should be good to go.

Fire the plate for the fronjt of the truck will stop all of that. The storm is made so that breaks first instead of bending the truck up even though it still happens.

Here are the pictures since the motor came today. Slightly used picco .21 p7 idm evo3 on road motor. Yeah this thing is going to rip. The new changes are battery and receiver are in the upside down box, 4-tec front shocks, mounted foams to standard 2.2 rims, wheelie bar, and the sweet newer motor. server error wont let me upload right now. Ill try again later

Zack!

Sweet! Got it running. Did the first step of the breaking in process. Went through a tank pretty quickly as it just sat there. Seemed a bit too quick but i have no clue as im completley new to this. Also, right before it ran out of gas the truck sped up to full throttle right before running out. Is that normal?

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

Yes when the last of the fuel runs out you get more air making it run lean for a second. perfectly normal and fine.

nitro-rob

Below is a post I tried to send for four hours last night unsuccessfully thanks to technical difficulties. I am too lazy to reedit.
Rob



Welcome Fireofthestorm.

The RPM arms are great, I have them on my storms and love them and wouldn't get anything else (I assume when you said carbon you meant polymer and not CF). Aluminum isn't worth it. A lot of it out there is very soft (Integy is very soft) and its heavier, less forgiving and doesn't bend reversibly. Aluminum in the right places is the best thing to do - steering knuckles and bearing holders, camber link bar and hinge pin holders is where I put it.

I would stick with the stock bulk head. Its a good weak point to have since it can be replaced in minutes for a couple of dollars. The only alternative is the integy.

RPM makes a bumper for the firestorm as well. Its the same bumper as the T4 and B4. It was just released so you may not see it easily but if you get the T4/B4 bumper it will be the same.

Warrior - nice to see you again. I look forward to seeing the new look. My nitro firestorm wasn't driven last season and a half and is sitting in the original box in storage right now.

I highly recommend you reading through the thread. There is a lot of good information in here and you will see a pattern develop with the same issues coming up over and over again. Its also good to do some reading on nitro engine maintenance and care. The key is to after run and store the piston at the bottom of the stroke after each ride (and preferably before the engine cools).

If you want to go crazy with the truck extremeracing makes carbon fibre chassis. I am building an e-firestorm with one of their chassis and its pretty cool. Here is the thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10220414

nitro-rob

Welcome Fireofthestorm.

The RPM arms are great. I have them on my storms and love them and wouldn't get anything else. I completely agree with Roadwarrior on aluminum parts (and that Integy aluminum is very soft). I use the same aluminum parts he said except stayed away from the a-arms and went RPM. When you say carbon arms do you mean carbon fibre? They are just composite plastic. Aluminum in the right places is the best thing to do - steering knuckles and bearing holders, camber link bar and hinge pin holders is where I put it.

I would stick with the stock bulk head. Its a good weak point to have since it can be replaced in minutes for a couple of dollars. The only alternative is the soft integy.

RPM makes a bumper for the firestorm as well. Its the same bumper as the T4 and B4. It was just released so you may not see it easily but if you get the T4/B4 bumper it will be the same.

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

Agreed I wish that rpm made more parts for the storms. The next time I hit something good enough to have to replace the arms it will be rpm instead. I have seen a all rpm rc10 hit my car at full speed (55) and keep on going while my wheel is now rolling the other direction and the body is ripped off from him trying to be funny. In his defense I had done the same thing to him in the past with a ofna pirate monster that launched me about 10 feet in the air.
Finally got the pictures to go through. They are not that great and dont do it any justice. This thing is beautiful

JUBE

really beautiful road warrior, everything is original to put more powerful engine?

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah pretty much aside from the big block motor mount and the gearing to use all of the big block power. Cut down the shock towers to drop the body as low as it can go. Moved the battery under the receiver to put more weight on that side to even out the weight balance. Mounted a wheelie bar where the battery used to be. And a whole bunch of hop up and look good parts. It looks stock but dropped to the ground.

JUBE

as this made the wheelie bar? thnks

Zack!

Still having problems with my Firestorm.. I managed to get it started, then broke my engine in. Drove it around and noticed the brakes hardly worked. Adjusted the brakes along with the idle (to keep the truck still and not roll away). Thus the problems began. It didnt want to start anymore. Well, it would start then die. Found out my idle screw slipped so i fixed that i think. Now it starts, drove it around THEN dies. Looked inside carburetor to check if there was enough opening (1mm?) still doesnt want to stay on. Whats odd is that on my remote the throttle trim is all the way down. If i move to the neutral position on the remote, the truck dies. I have no idea what is wrong. A lot of gas is being shot out of the exhaust (too rich?) but it seems like theres not enough gas pumping through the engine. I dont know if i should mess with the hsn or the lsn as my engine is still fairly new. Meaning i havent really driven it around much, just idling for however long it want to stay on. Please Help!

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

It sounds like you need to turn the needle settings back to stock and try to get it running with the controller off. This should give you a base setting on the truck and work with the trim after the truck is set. The truck should sit there and idle for a while before it loads up. Even then it will just stumble a little bit when you try to drive it for a second until it clears up

nitro-rob

I would also check to see if your throttle servo is centered. The servo horn is L-shaped. The lines of the L need to be aligned with the front and sides of the truck when the throttle is at neutral. Its hard to explain but I don't have mine out to take a picture.

fire of the storm

your trying to asay that that "L" shape needs to be in line with the truck

nitro-rob

From p 23 of the manual.