nitro-rob

Yeah, thats the high output version. Savage-central has an engine thread that has reliable dyno results on all the engines. Funny you should mention traction bars - my only other project besides building my crazy savage is to try to install stabilizer bars on the firstorm. I have a set from the MT2 that may fit but I need to do a little more work to see if its feasible. I have the appropriate tap set to do the mounting and when I do it I will take photos.

I am going to try something new with the next break in (on the 7.7, its a .46). I have a variable AC unit and ordered heat tape to heat the head and block to maintain a better temperature than a heat gun provides. I will take photos of that as well and maybe a video of the break in procedure. I am really liking the CEN trucks. They are very heavy and built like a rock and dwarf the savage X in size. I will take a photo of them next to my other RCs for comparison. I wonder how much driving time my savage will get once I get them going. They look really aggressive and cool.

It looks like the weather is going to suck and keep me out of burning fuel for almost seven weeks....

Lot of photos to take...its hard to get space to do it because I am in the middle of a complete renovation at home.

nitro-rob

I found the information, unfortunately it doesn't have the RR specs but its still good information:
The folowing is a dyno list from Xtreme R/C Magazine

Associated MGT 4.6cc 1.10 @ 19,500 rpm 57.60 oz-in @ 17,750 rpm 34,250 rpm w/ kit n/a
Associated AE.15 .44 @ 22,100 rpm 21.87 oz-in @ 20,100 rpm 33,100 w/kit

Axial Racing .28 Spec I S 1.43 @ 22,800 rpm 75.61 oz-in @ 18,000 rpm 35,000 rpm AX001 $160
Axial Racing .32 same as the Racers Edge Sure Fire .32 with in a 10th in the Sure Fires favor

CEN NX-26 1.02 @ 23,200 rpm 53.00 oz-in. @ 18,000 rpm 33,200 rpm w/ kit n/a
CEN X-76 .46 1.58 @ 21,250 rpm 74.88 oz-in @ 16,500 rpm 36,000 rpm w/ kit $299
CEN OPS .21 speedster 1.27 @ 27,000 rpm 57.53 oz-in @ 19,200 39,800 rpm w/kit n/a

GS GS-R25MT 1.20 @ 24,000 rpm 55.68 oz-in @ 17,000 rpm 35,500 rpm w/ kit $230

HPI 18 SS 0.63 @ 29,500 rpm 24.96 oz-in @ 22,250 rpm 32,500 rpm w/ kit $170
HPI Nitro Star F4.1 0.94 @ 20,250 rpm 48.60 oz-in @ 18,000 rpm 33,500 rpm w/ kit n/a
HPI K4.6HO 1.28 @ 19,500 rpm 64.76 oz-in @ 19,500 rpm 32,000 rpm w/ kit n/a
HPI Nitro Star K4.6 1.32 @ 22,250 rpm 59.52 oz-in @ 19,750 rpm 35,000 rpm w/ kit $200
HPI Nitro Star GS 3.0 .56 @ 25,700 rpm 21.83 oz-in @ 25,500 rpm 36,300 rpm w/ kit
HPI K5.9 1.79 @ 21,800 rpm 86.46 oz-in @ 20,400 rpm 31,000 rpm w/ kit n/a

Kyosho GSR-26 0.94 @ 31,500 rpm 46.08 oz-in @ 14,300 rpm 34,250 rpm w/ kit n/a
Kyosho GSR-28 1.16 @ 21,800 rpm 56.32 oz-in @ 19,600 rpm 32,800 rpm w/kit n/a

LRP Z .12R Team Spec.2 1.11 @ 34,500 rpm 32.46 oz-in @ 34,250 rpm 41,250 rpm LRP31201 $240
LRP Z .28R Spec.3 Truggy 1.87 @ 27,200 rpm 70.77 oz-in @ 25,600 rpm 42,800 rpm

Mach .15 Rear Exhaust 0.65 @ 21,500 rpm 30.72 oz-in @ 11,000 rpm 29,500 rpm w/ kit $120

Max Power .12 S-3MF 0.91 @ 34,750 rpm 28.80 oz-in @ 30,250 rpm 43,000 rpm MX12MAXS2MF $349
Max Power MX21M5 1.35 @ 24,500 rpm 55.68 oz-in @ 21,000 rpm 38,250 rpm MX21M5 $350

Mugen X12 SE 0.88 @ 21,500 rpm 28.80 oz-in @ 30,000 rpm 42,500 rpm X12S3 $290

Novarossi N21B 1.33 @ 22,750 rpm 59.52 oz-in @ 20,750 rpm 35,750 rpm N21B $199
Novarossi N528XR Hott Mod 2.02 @ 26,250 rpm 80.64 oz-in @ 22,000 rpm 38,500 rpm N528XR $319
Novarossi P5 1.46 @ 25,250 rpm 59.52 oz-in @ 22,000 rpm 37,750 rpm A2C201 $300

Novarossi 12-3CT 1.03 @ 33,500 rpm 31.32 oz-in @ 32,800rpm 42,000 rpm $395

O.S. .12TZ(S) T3 0.80 @ 34,000 rpm 24.96 oz-in @ 21,750 rpm 38,500 rpm 11371 $230
O.S. 12 TR 0.65 @ 30,000 rpm 25.00 oz-in @ 23,250 rpm 39,350 rpm 11362 $130
O.S. 12 TR-T Outlaw 0.73 @ 31,500 rpm 25.96 oz-in @ 27,250 rpm 41,000 rpm 11365 $160
O.S. .18 TZ-T 1.18 @ 29,400 rpm 44.16 oz-in @ 21,750 rpm 42,050 rpm OSMG2114 $180
O.S. VZ-B V-Spec 1.47 @ 24,250 rpm 61.20 oz-in @ 22,500 rpm 41,500 rpm 13890 $320
O.S. 30VG 1.80 @ 26,500 rpm 74.88 oz-in @ 18,750 rpm 35,500 rpm 13960 $250

Ofna Hyper 21 8-Port 0.98 @ 20,750 rpm 49.92 oz-in @ 14,750 rpm 33,000 rpm w/ kit $150
Ofna Force .26 1.02 @ 24,000 rpm 48.00 oz-in @ 19,500 rpm 38,500 rpm w/ kit $140
Ofna/Picco P7-R Evo .21 1.47 @ 25,200 rpm 59.01 oz-in. @ 24,800 rpm 39,400 rpm 51218 $309
Ofna Force .32 1.23 @ 23,000 rpm 66.07 oz-in @ 17,400 rpm 33,200 rpm w/kit
Ofna Hyper MacStar 2.8 6 port 1.03 @ 23,400 rpm 44.82 oz-in @ 23,400 rpm 34,200 rpm w/ kit

Peak Diablo .12 Type-R 0.51 @ 25,550 rpm 21.10 oz-in @ 19,000 rpm 33,000 rpm PEK6006 $150
Peak Diablo .28 1.33 @ 27,500 rpm 48.00 oz-in @ 22,000 rpm 40,800 rpm PEK6081 $170

Racers Edge Sure Fire .32 1.65 @ 21,750 rpm 74.80 oz-in @ 21,000 rpm 34,500 rpm RCESF10000 $200

Radical 621P 1.27 @ 26,150 rpm 52.06 oz-in @ 19,400 rpm 39,400 rpm kit n/a

RB Concepts V12 Rody 3T 0.95 @ 34,250 rpm 28.80 oz-in @ 28,750 rpm 44,750 rpm 1700-000445 $375

Rex R12S5 Outlaw 0.84 @ 34,750 rpm 26.88 oz-in @ 26,750 rpm 41,250 rpm RER12S5 $385
Rex ReR5 5-port turbo 0.84 @ 34,750 rpm 27.00 oz-in @ 26,750 rpm 41,250 rpm ReR5S3 $320

Rossi Cobra .21 1.32 @ 25,600 rpm 52.45 oz-in @ 25,200 rpm 41,200 rpm 190AR21 $350

SH PT2002XB .21 1.21 @ 22,100 rpm 55.68 oz-in @ 19,750 rpm 39,000 rpm 147009 $229
SH 0.28 1.22 @ 20,500 rpm 61.40 oz-in @ 14,750 rpm 38,450 rpm w/ kit $150

Sirio S12T3 EvoIII 0.79 @ 35,050 rpm 23.04 oz-in @ 22,000 rpm 40,750 rpm S12-TRP1 $200
Sirio P21 PR Pro 1.46 @ 27,750 RPM 53.76 oz-in @ 26,250 RPM 41,000 rpm S12-TRP1 $200

Sportwerks 0.26 1.30 @ 26,750 rpm 53.76 oz-in @ 19,000 rpm 42,750 rpm w/ kit n/a

STS D30M 1.6 @ 25,000rpm 67.99 oz-in @35,000rpm 35,000rpm $130
STS28 is the same peak HP is at a lower rpm band than the STS D30M

Super Tiger G-27CX 0.86 @ 17,250 rpm 50.70 oz-in @ 16,250 rpm 30,250 rpm w/ kit n/a

Tamiya FR-15S 0.48 @ 30,250 rpm 21.12 oz-in @ 13,000 rpm 36,500 rpm S21 PR Pro $350

Team Losi Mach 427 1.31 @ 26,750 rpm 53.80 oz-in @18,750 rpm 43,250 rpm w/ kit n/a

Thunder Tiger Pro .21 0.92 @ 21,750 rpm 57.60 oz-in @ 16,750 rpm 37,750 rpm w/ kit n/a
Thunder Tiger Pro 28 BXR 1.10 @ 19,500 rpm 57.60 oz-in @ 17,750 rpm 34,250 rpm w/ kit n/a

Top TS12S3 0.77 @ 31,000 rpm 26.88 oz-in @ 20,250 rpm 41,750 rpm TSR12S3 $299

Traxxas TRX 2.5 Rear Exhaust 0.69 @ 29,750 rpm 30.72 oz-in @ 18,750 rpm 38,500 rpm w/ kit $120
Traxxas TRX 3.3 Pullstart 1.06 @ 31,250 rpm 37.49 oz-in @ 19,500 rpm 37,750 rpm w/ kit $152

Trinity 427 Monster Horsepower 1.02 @ 24,250 rpm 48.00 oz-in @ 19,250 rpm 38,100 rpm w/ kit n/a
Trinity .30 Adam Drake 1.44 @ 21,750 rpm 55.68 oz-in @ 27,000 rpm 36,250 rpm TRI40006 $215
Trinity .21 Adam Drake 1.48 @ 25,400 rpm 57.72 oz-in @25,400 rpm 41,000 rpm TRI40012 $465
Trinity .21 Platinum Drake 1.58 @ 26,200 rpm 61.03 oz-in @25,800 rpm 40,600 rpm w/ kit

Werks Racing Collari B7 1.54 @ 26,000 rpm 59.52 oz-in @ 23,750 rpm 36,650 rpm WRXLC21B7 $250

Xray NT18 w/ kit n/a

XTM XTM 24.7 1.27 @ 23,000 rpm 61.44 oz-in @ 16,750 rpm 37,250 rpm w/ kit $140

2 Savages with way too much to list, Baja SS, LST2, Tmaxx, Emaxx 16.8, Jato3.3, Menace 21, Shockwave 55, 2 micros and I'm far from done. Pics of the fleet
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...=nav_tab_album

wileecoyote

My Feedback: (1)

WOW!!! I guess the OS or Novarossi are the power dogs there. I am amazed the power the .18 OS Max makes over the 3.0 HPI motor. Almost twice the hp and twice the torque. Thats a hot little motor. Great info for sure. And here I thought the 5.9 HPI was a beast. Not really eh? Ya, Id love to see a comparison pic of the CEN and Sav XL. Keep me posted. Im gonna print that sheet out so I can compare whatever else I get into. Thankyou.

Mouldiwarp

Sorry to change the subject a little guys, new to the thread, RC, Nitro and Firestorm so first up, Hi... to everyone... I have spent a lot of time reading the history in the thread and everyone seems really helpful (especially when it came to run in and tune the truck which helped a lot!!!)

second up... I cant be the only person that seems to be spending more money on replacement front end parts than I spent on the truck 'out of the box' can I... I know my driving is bad, but going off the number of crashes I have in my real car I wouold not expect model life to be too far different lol..

I have replaced a ton of parts with alloy (front brace, front arm mount, rear shocks, front knuckles and put on composite front arms as alloy ones get a bit expensive with overseas shipping.....  I have a few issues with the EDIT front nuckles dont seem to work with the stock wheels very well as the ball connectors rub on the rims and wear down to the point they become a little easy to pop off...... Since I only bash for fun and dont race I am thinking I may have to replace the rims with larger ones if anyone can suggest some that might fit without too much trouble....?? otherwise is there something I can do to 'space out' the wheel from the bearings / hex nut fitting to give me an extra few mm of space (width)?? 

On another  front... the front bulkhead (forgive me I may get terminology wrong here, still learning...) the biggest plastic bit that looks like a scoop and holds the servo saver and front assembly in place at the front of the truck between the upper and lower deck... seems to me to be very very weak (ok if you hit things its gonna break, but this thing seems really fragile....)  I have looked all over the place for solutions to this problem (thankfully I only broke one so far) and yes, my driving is mostly to blame ... I am a bit rubbish on that side of things... but I am looking for a solution to at least reduce the number of replacements I have to make.

After this last breakage I picked up some 2mm galv sheet steel and made a brace for the front (also serving as a bumper mount should I want ot put one on later.  I spent 2 hours at the local park giving the car some serious abuse and nothing broke. I managed to get through half a litre of fuel and tha car once cleaned up is still in excellent condition with no visible damage to anything except the already broken front bulkhead bit.  The steel is a little bent as it started life protruding out the front of the car further than the wheels so when coming out of a jump a little rough it bent back and I probably need to counter sink the screws a little more to avoid wearing the heads down to the point they need to be drilled out and replaced (since it replaces the skid plate... I take this as a good thing as it suggests the buper will absorb some impact too.... 

My question (I suppose has to be) has this not already been done?? if not can anyone think why not...?? I may even look into getting some pressed out at a later date to give me stock and maybe make them available through my local model shop.....

wileecoyote

My Feedback: (1)

MOULDIWARP, welcome to our little slice of the universe. Sounds like you've been busy with the 'Storm. BALL LINKS, why not try and see if you can reverse the ball from one side to the other of the knuckle to see if it clears better? BUMPER/BULKHEAD, Yes, I have broken quite a few and now have two on hand at all given times. They are not the strongest part of the truck. I have seen bumpers on Ebay for the 'Storm and look promising. To be effective it does have to wrap down underneath and tie into the main aluminum frame. As your driving skilss get better you will stop hitting things but until then BUY MORE PARTS!! lol Thats what I did, now, I own HPI . haha Best wishes, nice to have you here.

nitro-rob

Welcome Mouldiwrap,
One way around the rubbing ball ends would be to use rims with a larger offset. There are many out there I don't know and specifics off hand but that will help. Its odd you are getting rub, though, I have aluminum knuckles (hot racing) and they don't come close to rubbing. You are wise to stay with the plastic suspension arms, it will cut down on broken parts since they don't have as much give. My solution to the weak front end was to put a bumper on the truck that wraps around the bottom (don't know the buyer but type in firestorm bumper on ebay and there is only one seller of aluminum bumpers). I also use the chassis top brace from newera models which makes things more rigid which is likely similar to what you already made. I think they have a bumper as well that works in a similar way to the ebay version I bought. www.neweramodels.com Their shipping is expensive but their stuff is top rate. Its worthwhile to purchase a lot from them at once.
Thank you for reading back through the forum - the archived information is worth going through and covers a lot.

Mouldiwarp

Ikind of made the same thing... I didnt take a lot of time on it but it came out surprisingly well. Mine hooks up the frontand giveswhat seems like a bit more front impact protection. IthinkImay re-make it so it kind of curlsround the front brace togive it another point inwhich it adds strength.

I have a friend withan engineering company, gonna give him a shoutto see how muchit would cost per unit to knock out some in titanium for those that are weight consious and some in galv steel (not that it weighs much anyway)for those that would appreciate a bit more weight on the front end. I cant see them costing muchas they arenot exactly hard to manufacture with the rightequipment. Checker plate may be nice to build the front end to look more bumper like...

Hey, like the idea of the offset wheels, I will have tocheck out the LHS to see what they have in, although if all I am doing isbashing with the truck,bigger wheels may proove to work out a bit better??

cbr6fs

Hi MOULDIWARP,


I have to agree, i've bought a few Edit products and not 1 fitted correctly.
I buy newera or HPI parts now.

Also have a few problems with front end breakages, here's my current setup.

New era Upper Reinforcement plate


New era Front Chassis Reinforcing Plate and Kydex Bash Bumper




A Major help in stopping crashing in the first place though is improving the brakes.






No idea how it drives with the new stuff yet though as i'm still waiting for some bits.
I'll let you know after i hit something on how it holds up.



Cheers
Mark

JUBE

Of which truck is the brake disc. thaks

cbr6fs

It's a new era carbon disc with Aluminium centre and Aluminium arm.
The brake disc and center were from here.
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...=&part_id=9531
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...=&part_id=9678

I bought the Aluminium brake arm from Ebay.

JUBE

do you know if the jato performance brake go in the firestorm??

nitro-rob

From what I hear the Jato brake is a direct fit. Its next on my list to get. Havn't driven my storm for two months! The way the weather is going I may be done for the season.

JUBE

yes, here in argentina now is spring the weather is comming cool now jaja. byee

pmraider12

hey fellas.i love my firestorm.my first nitro truck.i just have 1 minor problem.when i start the truck it runs fine when im holding it.when i go to put it down the truck just shuts off.i tried tuning it.serveral other people tried tuning it.i just car figure it out.also when i gas it before i put it down and then i go to hit the brakes it shuts off also.its completley stock.i cant figure this out!!

ro.sniper

I think your clutch is finished.

pmraider12

as in the slipper clutch??

ro.sniper

Ooops I should have been more specific. Not the slipper clutch the one in the clutch bell which has two shoes held by a tensioner spring.

Cheers!

wileecoyote

My Feedback: (1)

Not if he gives it gas while holding it in mid air, it spins wheels and then goes to brake it and shuts down. Idle is not high enough in that case. If you put it on the ground and let it sit does it idle? Then you give it gas and it shuts down? Explain it a little better please.

nitro-rob

It sounds like the clutch spring is broken. Without it the clutch will not disengage and will stall the engine when its on the ground. Its common. The best remedy besides a new spring is to install a savage two or three shoe clutch.

wileecoyote

My Feedback: (1)

While I agree it could be the clutch spring I dont think he made himself clear. I just wanted him to clarify what he's saying. Ive read it three times and it sounds odd. BUT, I could ALWAYS be wrong. Either way, best of luck and yes, check the clutch spring.

pmraider12

no it does not hold an idle.i tried adjusting that also.i took the clutch apart and found peice of the clutch and a broken spring.already ordered new parts.to bad i didnt do what nitro-rob said.maybe next time.thanks.learned a lot from this thread already and ive only been on here a day!!

wileecoyote

My Feedback: (1)

Well good, I'll shut up now.

nitro-rob

Consider the savage clutch upgrade in the future if this problem persists, its worth doing. The stock spring setup is pretty cheap and is the top problem with the truck. Wilee, never shut up, we need people to talk as much as possible on here. The thread has been slow lately, I hope its not because of a lack of interest and that people are driving trouble free.

wileecoyote

My Feedback: (1)

How do you guys post pics on here? I cant figure out how.

nitro-rob

You have to hit reply or quote on a previous message and can't post pictures from a fresh message. Speaking of pictures, here is my completed CEN ready to be broken in. It was a dirty box of parts when I got it (along with a box of new unopened parts - I love ebay). Better pictures are coming.