1ne8ighty2wo

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What's up guys? It's GlassBullet. I was on a few months ago a bunch when I got my storm, then school started up and I put it in the closet for a while but I just got it out. I came on here and my account wasn't working so I made a new one. I got some new fuel the other day I'm gonna break out the Storm this weekend.

Before I put it away I was messing with the tune a bunch before I put it away so I want to start with stock settings now. Does anyone know what they are, in terms of turns out? IIRC, it's like 3 1/2 on the HSN and flush on the LSN. However, I can't really tell when it's flush or not, so if someone could tell me the turns out for stock settings that would be stellar. Thanks!

I hope to be fairly active on the forums again.

nitro-rob

Welcome back. I don't know how many turns out it is but flush should be pretty easy to see with your eye, its not that precise.

1ne8ighty2wo

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Is it the outer part of the needle that's flush, or is it the part where the tip of the screwdriver makes contact?

EDIT: And also, what's the stock setting for the slipper clutch? Or what's a recommended settings? I was messing around with that too (trying to get it to wheelie) and Iforgot what Idid to it. I think i'm gonna stop randomly fiddling with the settings :]

nitro-rob

Slipper clutch recommended setting is six turns out from being fully in. Its the outer part of the needle thats flush and not the slot.

1ne8ighty2wo

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Awesome. and sorry for getting into too much meticulous detail here, but is it the outer most part of the needle slot that it's flush with, or is the part touching the needle itself (how the needle sleeve is kinda funnel shaped at the rim)

ro.sniper

Ok so here go some mspaint skills lol... the flat part of the needle should be flush with the needle casing... dunno if that makes sense

cummins driver

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Here you go. Look at Page 8:

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in...ines/15105.pdf

It shows a flush needle(even though its the HSN).

But yes, its the flat part of the needle that needs to be flush with the carb. In other words, if you run your finger over the end of the carb, there should be nothing sticking out past the carburetor.

1ne8ighty2wo

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ro.sniper, that's exactly what i'm looking for. thank you. (nice paint skills, btw )

and cummins driver, i totally forgot about the manual. thanks!

1ne8ighty2wo

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So yesterday I took it out and then thing runs great. I think the new fuel made it a lot smoother (was using nearly year old fuel!!). I started to tune a little and was taking temps along the way. After the first adjustment (about 1/8 to 1/4 turn in) I did a few WOT passes and immediately took the temp. It said it was 250 degrees. Is this normal for taking it right after high speed passes? When is a good time to take the temp of an rc? BTW, the body was on and it was about 70 degrees outside and pretty dry, if that makes a difference.

cummins driver

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250* is nothing to worry about.

Honestly, I have never even owned a temp gun, and have never killed a nitro engine. Just tune for performance and then run the heck out of it. Every engine will be different than the other as far as the temp's that they like to run, but if the engine is running good with a good smooth idle, and snappy acceleration with a decent smoke trail, then you really have nothing to worry about IMO.

Eric

1ne8ighty2wo

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Alright, thanks!

And one more qestion (for now ), I remember that there was a test you could do to check the LSN settings. It was to let it idle for like half a minute and then pinch the fuel line. there was a certain amount of time that it was supposed to stay on, with the revs raising a little, and then shut off. Can anyone tell me the specifics of this, or a link to where it is? And are you supposed to pinch the line right at the carb or in the middle or what?

nitro-rob

Definitely tune for performance and smoke. Temperature watching is look for extremes and tells you if there is a problem like an air leak. Too cold is as bad as too hot - the cylinder needs to be expanded to its proper size to run right and if its too cool and contracted you wear it too much and it will not have good compression at regular operating temperatures. I don't like them to go below 190.
For LSN setting pinch about 1cm from the carb intake. The method I use is to have the truck idle for about a minute then hit the throttle. If it bogs a bit or sounds rich before speeding up you are rich.

1ne8ighty2wo

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I'll go try both those methods.

and what temperature would be "too high". like 300*?

nitro-rob

I am not comfortable above 270. It depends on the outside temperature. If its hot outside then you run the engine leaner and lubrication and air cooling contribute to higher temperatures.

1ne8ighty2wo

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alright, good to know.

And all day i couldn't get it to start and i finally found out why. I kept on pulling and pulling and it just wouldn't start. It would sputter a couple times every now and then, but i couldn't bring it to life. I finally gave up and gave the car a push with my foot, and it slid. I thought the trim was off and the breaks were engaging, but no. As it turns out, the clutch bell, or something around there, is binding when the car tries to move. So i took off the spur gear and sure enough, it fired up first pull. So is it the clutch bell that's fried, or is it something else? What part should I order to get it going again, or what do I need to do to fix this problem?

EDIT: I'm thinking it's the clutch shoes that are the problem, as I remember from when I first got it that people reccomend replacing them with Savage ones. If this sounds like the problem, could somone point me in the direction of which ones i should be getting.

On a side note, what would cause the shoes to go bad?

cummins driver

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Its the clutch spring most likely. These things have horrible factory clutches and i havent found a good way to fix it yet, other than going with a 3 shoe savage clutch. But yes, that is what i would do if i were you, just buy a good 3 shoe savage clutch.

I am trading mine off for a nice 1/8 buggy. Got the offer and just couldnt resist since i had a buggy before and liked it[8D]

1ne8ighty2wo

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Will either one of these clutch systems work?: HPI or Integy. And which one would you recommend?

And good luck with that buggy!

cummins driver

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I am assuming a standard 1/8 clutch setup will work just fine, so yes, either of those setups would work.

I have the integy aluminum clutch set and flywheel on my savage with an Axial .28 and it has been great. I love the clutch and i got it off of ebay for i think right around $12 shipped. I know if it will hold up and work well in a savage with a .28 then it will work great in the firestorm, so you should be good to go. I would definately get the integy kit over the HPI kit. A lot of people dont like integy aluminum products, but i think their clutches are pretty good.

Eric

1ne8ighty2wo

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Just ordered the clutch and flywheel. I bought the Integy from ebay.

So I was thinking, to install the new clutch i'm gonna be taking off the engine. And I've been wanting to do a complete (or almost complete) tear down, clean it all, then put it all together with locktight. Any suggestions or tips on doing this? Will the diagrams in the manual be enough for me to put it all back together alright?

nitro-rob

For sure the schematic in the manual is sufficient to rebuild the truck. Its pretty easy to do and would only take a few hours. Use blue loctite (not red) on all metal bolts going into metal. If you want to be really thorough your differential can be shimmed to remove slop. They don't come very tight from the factory.

1ne8ighty2wo

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I don't know squat about the differentials so I'll just leave those be. I don't plan on racing so I don't need it to be perfect.

Also, in terms of the new Integy clutch, will I need to get a new clutch bell, too, or will the Integy clutch fit into the stock F.Storm clutch bell?

wileecoyote

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It depends on which clutch you bought but, it should fit. If not let us know, I may have one here I can send ya. The differential is NOT hard and I recommend doing it even to just familiarize your self with it. It doesnt matter your not racing. Its a weak spot of the truck. the manual will show you everything or you could ring up HPI.com and check there for the schematic. The diff comes dry mostly so it'll need greased.

wileecoyote

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Oh ya, Welcome back!

1ne8ighty2wo

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Okay. I'll take a look at it. Do I only need to grease it, or is there more I should do to it? I don't know anything about shimming or all that.

And here's the clutch i bought

and thanks!

wileecoyote

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Well, that clutch should work just fine. When you take the diff apart you will see little gears on pins that transfer power from the big gear to the wheels. they are called planetary gears. These gears walk back and forth on the pins because of the loose tolerances. These are what you are shimming. The pin should get a small washer to keep the gears forced over to the main gear.
Look at it and you will understand what Im saying. (hopefully) So, small washers are needed and some grease. You can also buy diff fluid but thats not really necessary. Regular axle grease or the like will do. I think NITROROB had posted pix here a few pages back of what it all looks like. Iam an idiot with the pix and cant seem to post them correctly.
You want some movement on these gears, IE not tight. But you do want them closer than what the factory does. It will go a long way towards keeping the diff in one piece. Make sure to put the gasket back in and tighten the bolts snugly but not so tight they strip. I wish I could do more for you other than writing it down here. Let us know how you do and again good luck. Be patient go slow and pay attention to what goes where and you will be fine.