Fuel Crazy

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If it goes out and breaks axles or something again, then im just gonna go ahead with doing the Rustler diff swap, and setting it up just for speed runs.

But this is a reason ive decided to try keeping the marine pipe on it. With as narrow of a powerband as it delivers, i should be able to get it to a tuned length that softens the hit up a bit, and doesnt really hit the pipe until its already moved out a couple feet.

Road Warrior

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Jube.....Sometime in the next week the firestorm from ebay should be coming in. I will run it stock and let you know if it will be better with the hpi pipe or resonator both of them drilled out with a ported header. Then I will give the motor some special treatment and compare the modified 3.0 to the modified 3.3 since I don't have a stock 3.3 to get a baseline of that motor. Then I will probaly be selling the 3.0 and one of the 3.3's to get some money back for purchasing another truck and to be able to put rpm parts all around. After all is said and done I will have a my current street truck and a dirt truck with a 3.3 that will have some gearing on it to use all of the motor. The hard part is going to be finding a place that actualy has some dirt. If not the thought of having the Hyper on the single speed truck and putting the idm picco evo3 in the other one with the 2 speed and selling both 3.3's is another idea that is rolling around my head.

Will.....Check A Main for the nova p5xl turbo head button. They might be in stock now for $40 if you were looking to get a little bit more out of the hyper. The marine pipe is a good way to tune the power band where you want it. I thought that they gave you more on the top instead of the bottom to begin with. Not sure since I have never ran one but I will be in the market looking for another pipe if the 2 .21 firestorms end up happening.

Fuel Crazy

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the 0 band pipe like that does produce more topend RPM power then bottom end torque... but that can all be adjusted with length as you can adjust where the powerband is with simple changes shortening or lengthening it. One downside to the marine pipes is they are insanely loud. I modified mine with an internal stinger, but its still louder then the standard pipes.

Pretty decent out today, so gonna try gettin some new video a little later.

Fuel Crazy

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Well, tried to run yesterday and that didnt go so well. I have DEFINETELY got to have that donut for my electric starter show up. With these new wheels, its about impossible to get the rear wheels back on after starting it. Vibration just drops the pins right out before you even get a chance to get the wheel close to it. So for a quick fix...i put a drop of superglue on em to keep em held.

Got it all together, put it on the ground and drove it around a little to get some heat in it. Made one pass with it pretty rich... brought it back and leaned on it some.. did a quick little burnout, set it down...hit the trigger... zing... lots of sound, no movement. Stripped the damn 1st gear spur.


So for now...its back to sitting for a while unless the spare 41t spur i have for my RS4 will fit on the traxxas setup. Oh yea...on the bright side, the Panthers strapped 3 times with just 1 foam, produces very very little ballooning. And the small amount that they do, the tire still stays pretty flat due to the duct tape.

Road Warrior

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I thought about doing the duct tape and prob should have since they just about double in size.

On a good note the other firestorm came yesterday. It looked very promising so I pulled every part and screw out of the truck and fixed the broken crap and replaced stuff as necessary with a major clean. Went through the motor to clean it up as well and the exhaust got about 2 hours of dremmel time. I didn't touch anything inside of the motor yet so I can see the diference. The stinger got drilled out to the same size as the traxxas resonator pipe thats also drilled out and I also put 3 holes in the cone in the pipe. The header is what took all of the work. Never realized that so much could be taken out of a stock manifold. So that will flow as much as the motor can produce now. When I do get around to the motor in the next couple days it is going to be a major change. In stock form the 3.0 has absolutely nothing going for it in the power area. The crank looks like it will be promising along with a knife edge on the connecting rod. The sleeve though is not even close to performance so this is going to be a make or break project. As long as it goes right I will have a 3.0 that should blow a os 18cvr out of the water.

Fuel Crazy

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id be carefull messing with the rod. That was the weak point in the T3.0 from my RS4 (same engine pretty much as the G3.0). I barely took any material off other then what was needed to knife it....and it didnt last long turning more RPM.

Road Warrior

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Thanks for the warning Will. I'll just do some crank and sleeve work to it then. This is only to see what kind of gain I can get out of it because if it is still good it will just be getting sold anyways. The motor has tons of compression yet so it's nowhere near garbage, but the 3.3 all done up will waste the 3.0 in a heartbeat. The only thing I wondering is the gearing for the 3.3 dirt truck. I don't want crazy top speed but I don't want a tire shreading wheel stand truck either

My ultimate goal is to have the single speed hyper-storm beat a hopped up tz jato with a buku. Which will be just a drop in the hat as long as nothing breaks with the hyper. Then after that pull out the dirt truck and do it again and then go hit some jumps afterwards. The dirt truck might not beat him but at least give a good fight. After all its only 132'

Fuel Crazy

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with the 3.3, id at least go for the highest gear you can get being a bolt on thing.. which would be the 23 pinion and 46 spur from Integy. Would give ya a 8.22 final... which on 104mm tires or so should still be good for around 50mph @ 34000-35000, but get there quick.

Road Warrior

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Thanks again Will. Here is what the $76 truck looks like now after a few hours of clean up and fixing. I was real tempted to leave the spongebob stickers on, but couldn't. Pretty much just stock and with a stocker sitting next to a drag version you can see that there is way more going on to get the speeds we are getting like the chassis support turnbuckle for flex and the nova turbo head. Plus a motor that has 4 times the power of a stock g3.

nitro-rob

Big difference. The stock truck is still a lot of fun too.  Mine now looks almost completely stock except for the big block, pipe and wing.

Road Warrior

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Thats why i got another one. To be able to jump and run stuff over or down depending on if I see a cat. I like going fast but its to the point that boredom hits after a couple tanks.

I thought you had alot more done to your than just a couple mods.

Fuel Crazy

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that things lookin awesome Tim. Love the drag head. Is that the NR button? I went ahead and ordered one from Amain.. hopefully its the right one...part # NVR28002.... now just gotta find out what good turbo plugs to run are.


I gotta get a different body for mine. Yours look way better with the different body then the stock painted things.

Road Warrior

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Thanks Will. Yes that is the right part number. I run picco hot plugs in mine. Thats just preference they last long but are kind of expensive.

NeedForNitro

Does anybody know how to oil (tune) the differential?  I can't find any information on how much to use or what the best oil/weight is.  Has anybody done this?  Can you tell a noticeable difference from the stock grease?

Road Warrior

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Depends on what your looking to do with it. They sell dif silicone that will give you a one wheel peal to stuff that will lock it up. The street truck is locked up and the dirt truck has 50,000 in it. Which gives it one wheel spin in the turns and both on the straights depending on how hard the dirt is packed and the tires you have.

If you have not taken apart the diff in your truck chances are it is empty with gobs of grease between the gears. I'm not much of a dirt racer so it would be hard to tell you where to start with the weight. I completely fill up both halves and after it is together you will see a huge diference. Throw a extra shim behind each of the 4 gears while you have it apart too.

NeedForNitro

Thanks for the reply Road Warrior.  Do you use grease or oil?  What do you mean by shims?  Washers or something?  Sorry for all the questions.  I have been in the hobby for about 10 years, but I have no experience with oiling or greasing differentials.  Any knowledge or help from anybody would be nice.  If anybody tunes their diffs, please tell what weight you use and how you use your truck (race on dirt, bash, pavement).  Thanks!

Road Warrior

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You tune them with a silicone like stuff not oil. If you have a firerstorm or a truck with a spider diff when you pull it apart there is a thin washer behind the gears. On firestorms it is not enough to make the 10/13 tooth gears inside align properly.

Road Warrior

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They only say tune because the higher the weigth the more locked it is for a road condition. The lower weight would be better for a dirt. Anything you put in it will be a improvement over the stock crap.

NeedForNitro

Ok Road Warrior.  That's some good information.  I was running my FireStorm today and toward the end, I had no brakes!  Pulled it in and took a look at it.  One of the two screws (that hold the metal shoes on each side of the brake) was stripped out.  The screw itself isn't stripped.  The hold in the gear box is stripped.  I ordered another gear box.  Anybody have any ideas for a temporary fix?  I tried JB Weld, but it only held about a half hour.

Fuel Crazy

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epoxy should be able to hold a screw in there.

NeedForNitro

I actually just put a bigger diameter screw in there.  It actually brakes better now than it ever did .  I may not have to use that gear case right away.  Thanks for the advice though!

Fuel Crazy

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well the storm is down yet again. Not sure what caused this...but i havent found anything that was in the engine that would have caused it. Unfortunately this was the good piston/sleeve combo.

Not sure whats gonna happen with the storm now, but im kinda at the point now of just forgetting about it and going back to just messin with the boats. Figures this would happen after just spending almost $50 for a headbutton thats pretty much useless to me now.

Road Warrior

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Wow you have managed to suprize me yet again with the destruction of another motor. I have never done that to a engine yet either. It would take about a month to get a new piston sleeve for another 50 from rc mart or spend another hundred and get a complete new motor. Not that it would apply to you but the motor comes with 12 of the cheap standard glow plugs also. Regardless that sucks bro

Fuel Crazy

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yea if something is gonna break, its gonna do it with me. Like i said before, i keep the nitro engine tunes on the edge usually...which is funny since my gas engines for the boats i always keep a safe tune on.

I doubt ill buy another complete hyper with all the cases i have here. I do have the other complete 8port one i can change the crank in and one with stock 4port, so i have another one to stick in, just kinda gettin burnt out on the truck now with having it break something bout everytime i run it.

nitro-rob

Ouch.  Don't get discouraged, man.  You've been shooting for the moon with this thing and there is a lot of fun to be had funning a regular big block or G3.  I went pretty conservative with my big block and it was a really strong but fun truck.