JUBE

road what paint use on the chevy body??? and the flames how you do it??? veryyyyyy nice work. thnkss

Road Warrior

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Thanks Jube. The hobby shop a hour from my place has decal masks that you put on before you paint. After the mask I used a metalic black then hunter green to do the green to black fade. The metalic paint goes on so light you can just spray more where you want it darker without it being completely black. The flames are a metalic silver into a light green. I had bought a set of grim reaper masks too and was going to put the grim reaper behind the flames on the hood. Once it was at home I looked at the sheet better and it looks like they cut them wrong.

I use regular spray paint. You get a lot more for your money and the hobby grade stuff will come off of the body in a crash too. The brown body in the other pics is 2 yrs old and still looks ok for being in some high speed crashes with rustoleum paint.

Road Warrior

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Will.....You can take the toe out on the rear. The aluminum mounts from hot racing are wider than stock. I also got the new era 2 degree block that makes it a little less than 1 degree almost straight if I remember right. Plus you better not give up on the truck. Just dial it back a little bit from the ragged edge that you like to run the land rc's on.

Fuel Crazy

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ah ok i always wondered what purpose those degree blocks served. I'll leave mine the way it is for now, as it doesnt seem to cause any premature outside wear on the tires.

Im not givin up on it. Im just not gonna put anything ballastic in it for now. I built another last night with the crank you just did with a stock 4port sleeve that still has alot of pinch in it...so it should still run pretty good, especially for 132ft... just not like it was before.

Road Warrior

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That might work out pretty good as long as your not over carbed now. I have never ran the 4 with any kind of mod done to it to know what your loss is going to be. Shouldnt be that much but I think it will be more on the top than bottom that gets shaved off your power. If you run the button that could make up the diference.

Zack!

Im sorry guys but im not that happy with the firestorm. Mine in particular has had numerous problems since day one. My LHS has proven themselves worthless as well. Im thinking i just might have a faulty firestorm. Every time ilook into the carb something just doesnt look right.Not only dohave a smallopening where it should be inside the carb (1mm or 2mm?), i also have anotherhole thats located beneath it (hardto explain) Figured it was a slipped idle screw which it was for awhile. Anyways,with the amount of problemsive had since the unboxing, i figured i just got a hold of a bad one.Any idea what hpi's warranty is like? I would like another one seeing as everyone very much enjoys theres!

Zack!

Before i give up and contact hpi, maybe yall can help me with a another problem i just ran into. So i havent ran my truck in about 2 months and went to start it up earlier. I still use double AAs for my receiver so i put in a couple of fresh batteies. Went to flip the switch and nothing happaned. Took the batteries and double checked everything was right and still nothing. Is possible now that my reciever has gone out?

Road Warrior

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I just had a similar problem with one that I just got. Try spinning the batteries while they are in the holder and then plug them right into the receiver to see if the switch is bad. That is more common than a reciever going bad

Fuel Crazy

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yep if the batteries are good... eliminate the switch to see if it still powers up. The switches that come in these things are cheap. I dont use switches in mine period, just plug the battery pack straight into the reciever when i go to run.

Fuel Crazy

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well messed with the storm some tonight... cut and drilled on the body from my ofna truck to see what it looks like on the truck. I like it better then the stock body.

Its all back together so gonna try running it sometime tomorrow.

Zack!

Thanks! That did the trick! But im having more problems. Looking into the carb, i see two holes. One located at the top left where there normally should be one, but theres also another gap located at the bottom right of the carb when looking inside. My truck has had the most difficult time starting and i dont know if its because of this extra hole in the carb.My truck has been runningpoorly itseems. When starting my truck, it dies about 4 times before its actually up and runnning. At that time the throttle seems very inconsistent and not that responsive. Its almost as if it doesnt want to reach top speed. Dont know if this has anything to do with that extra hole in the carb. Also,on my radio, the throttle trim has to be all the way up forthe truckto run pretty much. That doesnt seem right either.Please help!

Zack!

Alright well it looks like my truck is working! I did one full turn on the HSN and opened the carb a little more and itruns really well now. I still have that extra opening in the carb that worries me still but other than that, the truck runs very smoothly.

NeedForNitro

Zack! , just to ease your worries, the extra hole in your carb isn't a big deal.  I have the FireStorm, a Traxxas Stampede, a RedCat Lightning, and a 1/16th scale Chaos.  My FireStorm and my Stampede both have the "extra" hole.  If I look in the carbs on my Lightning and the Chaos, the "extra" hole isn't visible.  It's still there though.  If you have an old carb laying around, take it apart and look at it.  That's what I did when I first got into nitro.  It will teach you a lot if you just take one apart and look at the parts and how everything works together.  Sometimes the best way to learn things is to just tear it apart and see how everything works  .  Just be careful and remember how everything goes back together.

JUBE

what think about this pipe??? http://cgi.ebay.com/Solar-Tuned-Exha...item1e5e2ead7e

Road Warrior

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That pipe won't work. The header is all wrong. If you are still using the stock motor You will not get any gain out of a better pipe till the motor is better. Just take a drill bit and drill out the end of the pipe where the exhaust comes out. If you can dremmel out the header do that as well. The 3.0 will not need any more than that. If you had a better side exhaust motor like a lrp .18 or os cvr 18 it would benefit more from a good pipe.

Fuel Crazy

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Well made some changes to the Firestorm. No longer a 2spd truck for right now. Tore it apart and adapted the entire rear end from my Duratrax truck. Now have a 3.25 diff, running 20/41 right now.. having a 6.66 final, vs the 7.60 i had with the 2spd 20/37 with 4.11 diff. The wheel base is now slightly longer, and the rear wheelbase width is about 3/4" or so narrower.

It has aluminum counter gear in it, but the diff is still plastic, so gonna have to take it easy on it... but if the 4port will still pull 35000-36000 or so, should still run around 60-62mph. In single speed mode, i'll be able to go to 23/37 for a 5.22 final.

Vava®

Fuel

What model of this rear tires? It's slick?

Fuel Crazy

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yes they are slicks. They are Panther Clay Burner slicks

Road Warrior

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Looking good Will. I hope that the 5.22 isn't too tall for that to turn seeing as these are not exactly aero dynamic.

All I have done is a way better wheelie bar on the street truck and the dirt one got the 3.3 already. I couldnt wait so it has a modded 3.3 with a on road pipe that was bought from rd logics. It said 1/8 but isnt and dont fit a 1/10 motor either its in between but made it work. Still has the stock gearing for now and curently looking for a tz slide carb to put on the 3.3. This one will be semi stock and quick as hell

Fuel Crazy

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i dont know if ill ever get to the 5.22 final... its just an option. Im hoping with the 4port and 6.66 final it softens the hit up some and doesnt try to destroy the diff everytime it launches.

Still gotta figure out what to do for brakes.. then finish up a few little things. Wont get to run til next week sometime though as im waiting on more glowplugs to show up.

Road Warrior

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I had the 3.3 storm out today and must say I am quite impressed by the way it handles when it is on all 4 wheels. The gearing did get changed to give a little more top end and use more of the 3.3 power. The clutch bell will be getting changed again as it is still not enough. It has a 17/39 and will be getting a 20/39 for a 8.0 final. The truck can obviously wheelie on command most of the time it just goes right on the lid which was expected. Durability was better than the I remember with the street one on all stock parts. A 30 mph tumble was not a problem as i had the street one throwing parts all over a parking lot at 15 mph from a wheelie enduced cartwheel. The run time on the modded 3.3 is crazy. The .21 will get about 7 1/2 min and the 3.3 is well over 10 running rich to keep it controlable. One thing that does help the 3.3 is running a 1/8 scale pipe. It sounds good and the power band is so smooth and predictable.

Fuel Crazy

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nice. I got mine all complete other then i wanna add a diff brace. Tested it yesterday but camera was dead. Diff sofar is holding up pretty good. I have the slipper set to let it slip a little to try and not strip teeth. With how i have the suspension now, it picks the tires up about 1" and carries it out a few feet on unprepped road. Midrange was slightly sluggish..but i still havent found the sweet spot for the needles yet.

Fuel Crazy

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well managed to get a quick vid today before the rains come in. This is with the other ported 8port in it, with the big carb. Still have it set pretty rich. Was leary to really get into it due to the older couple standing on the other side watching.

Did end up breaking something in the diff after the van left though on a launch. Havent pulled it apart yet to see whats up though.

http://youtu.be/OWjUwKFSEn0

Road Warrior

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It still sounds like you are pulling some rpm out of that motor. You can tell it is rich with the cloud that came out of it on a windy day. At least on the bottom hard to tell on the top when it goes by at about 60.

Had both of mine out the other day. The 3.3 truck is having battery issues or something. Need to get another hump pach for it other than that it is flipping amazing. The street truck was going to test the new wheelie bar on the back. Retuning for the turbo button and the clutch spring all snapped. Not sure how or why new springs and clutch just let loose. Sucky hobby town dont carry just springs and the other one is way to far to drive for just a couple springs.

Fuel Crazy

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Well got it back out again today... tried to get some video but batteries in the camera didnt wanna cooperate.

Managed to get just over 62mph out of it, with a pretty mild 8port and stock ofna pipe. Turning right around 36000-37000rpm. I did some speed runs on marked 132 and was getting 51-52mph and it doesnt come on real strong til about 40-50ft out. Probably gonna put the hpi diff back in with the 2spd as that gearing will be alot better for 132 stuff, and wont have to worry about breaking gears, just dogbones