tokenring

Hey Kordasn!!!

I'm in the same area and bought the same truck from the same store as you! Aren't they the best there or what!!! I'm having the exact same issue as you appear to be having. I don't think my engine is gone as I never ran it too lean. I always had a bunch of smoke coming out of the exhaust during each run. Are we supposed to prime it each time we try and start it??? Whenever I attempt to start it now, I always get a lot of gas in the exhaust... so when I lean it on the side for a second, it pours out!

... and if it starts, it tries to rip away like a mad truck. I heard this means that the LSN is set to lean so it's trying to accelerate so it doesn't choke. How do you know where the factory default is for the idle screw? Which way is LOW and which way is HIGH? Can someone please help us out and give some tips. I LOVE MY FIRESTORM WHEN IT RUNS


AB

windowlicker

I highly recommend you read your manuals! Its all written there about which way to turn any screws to have a desired effect on tuning. If you don't have the manual, go on HPIs website and download it, print it out, or keep in on your hard drive, read and re read it until you understand the basics of the car, and then if you don't understand after that, then ask. Sorry, but asking how to 'return the engine to stock settings' on a forum is pure laziness!

Basically, if the engine is accellerating away when the controls are not being touched. You need to turn your engine off, and be prepared to take about an hour out, checking the linkages from the throttle servo to the engine and brake. As it says in the manual, you need the throttle servo arm to be perfectly in line with the servo body when the cars electrics are on. Centre that servo arm whilst your transmitters trim is set to the centre also.

Now you have the servo arm centred, with the electronics on, you need to adjust the linkage so that the carb is always opened by 1mm even when the brake is applied, that way you're not having to 'accelerate' just to keep and idle, and braking will no longer cause the carb to shut and the engine die.

All this has been covered in the last few pages by another member who took the time to take photos on how to centre the servo arm and check the linkages. Basically, don't trust the settings of the truck straight out of the box, even the manual says that you should check and adjust various parts before you even run in the engine. Be patient, do it by the manual, and you should be fine and not have to resort to asking the same questions that are raised again and again on this thread.

windowlicker

tokenring, yes you have to prime the engine every time you start it. That 'fuel' that you say is coming out the exhaust is more likely to be oil from the burnt fuel, possibly from an over rich setting.

youtube has some great (traxxas) set up videos if you search for them. The tips all apply to any nitro engine though. Try things like the pinch test, where after you have the engine warmed up, pinch the fuel line and watch what the engine does. if it takes a while to build up revs (more than 4-5 seconds and revs high) then you probably have a rich setting that needs leaning out. If the engine dies with no raise in revs, your low speed needle is too lean and you should richen it up. You are basically aiming to have the engine raise its revs in 2-4 seconds slightly then die, that is the perfect low speed needle setting.

Remember, it can be hard to tell which needle needs tuning when you are new to nitro, always tune the high speed needle first, as adjusting it also effects the low speed needle setting

windowlicker

oh and tokenring, there is no default setting for the idle screw, clockwise increases idle. And with all other engine needles, clockwise leans the mixture

tokenring

yeah, so when I get lucky and it comes on from starting and I pinch the fuel line, it starts to rev up like in 2 seconds and then turns off. I know for sure that the LSN is back at factory defaults. I have the manual plastered all over the garage wall. There is NOTHING in the manual about the idle screw other than saying "this is the idle screw". The darn manual doesn't even really talk about the LSN also.

I've downloaded and watched the HPI tuning video's which are against the Savage, but I'm sure it's the same rules that apply other than the amount of turns for DEFAULT settings. For instance on the SAVAGE, you turn the HSN fully closeed and then turn it back 3.5 turns to get factory. I can't remember the number of turns for the LSN to be factory... I think it is 3.25 turns.

... besides the manual also tells you to turn the HSN in 1/4 turns... YUK!!!! Everyone else says that is way too much (so does the video) and says to do 1/8 turns. K, now I do QA and I can tell you that 1/4 and 1/8 are very small but also one is 100% more than the other. That is way too much for tolerance. What the hell is the recommended number 1/4 or 1/8????

... and I'm not ready to read 80 pages to search for the factory setting for the idle. Thanks for your help though WindowLicker!!!!!


AB

tokenring

Thanks for the idle screw info. I heard otherwise and I didn't want to touch it anymore until directed APPROPRIATELY. Thanks Window!!!!!

AB

tcv_racing

tokenring go back to page 71 of this thread youll find my post (post#1775) there on how to set your idlescrew..

tokenring

okay will do. I look at all of the parts that were mentioned to earlier in this page of the thread... but it just seems strange that during breakin it was fine and now it's not. I know I changed a few settings with the idle, HSN and LSN, but everything else looks exactly how it was bought... I'll figure it out today hopefully. Thanks for the help everyone.

AB

tokenring

wow page 71 looks good (from all of the posts). I try all of that and see what I can do today. I think I have a few issues going on with the truck now so I won't bug you guys anymore. I'm a newbie, but I also take my time and good care. I'll give her a whirl today after work and post everything on how it is and what I change and give the results. See you guys tonight (TCV, TOM and Windowlicker)

windowlicker

Sorry if my earlier posts came across harsh. I understand that the manual is a little on the light side when it comes to in depth information. Its taken me an age myself to tune mine up, and even now I'm not totally sure if its running as it should. I'd try tuning everything step by step, dont be tempted to adjust the idle and the hs needle at the same time then drive off to see how it is, just adjust one needle at a time, drive around, come back in and adjust something else. One thing I found when I had my car for the first few hours is that I was just fiddling everything and not learning a thing! Be patient, and I've a feeling the G3.0 is a pretty forgiving engine if your tune is a bit off.

tomcannon05

Looking forward to it!

tokenring

okay so I started doing the tips (idle tuning and stop collar) and at the very first part I'm a bit confused or my car is engine is toast.

<snip>
LET GO of the brakes then adjust idle screw CLOCKWISE to OPEN then apply brakes again and check the carb, do this until you have a 1mm opening on your carb when brakes are applied..
</snip>

where should I see that 1mm space? If you picture looking down at your car and the front is facing the right. I see a 1mm space on the right side as well as the space at the top that gets bigger as you accelerate. is the space at the right a chunk that is missing? I'll take a picture and post later.

AB

experimental_pilot

Has anyone taken their Flywheel off?
I'm having trouble getting it off. My 10mm socket is too shallow. The CrankShaft end is preventing the socket from reaching the Flywheel nut.
What tool did you use?

experimental_pilot

Nevemind. I just took the dremel to my socket and got it off.

experimental_pilot

Tokenring, I'm going to try and help you mate.
Your questions are so spread out, lets just start over.

1) Reset everything on your truck as it was out of the box!
If you have changed anything, change it back to the way it was. That's Highspeed Needle, Low Speed, Idle Adjuster, throttle linkage.
If you don't know what they were set to. Set the High and Low adjusters to as close to Flush as possible with the barrel they sit in.

The idle adjuster just prevents the Carburetor barrel from closing too much. You can see this with the Air Filter Off.
It shows in the manual on Page 23! Turn the Idle Adjuster until the carburetor barrel can not close past 1mm.
(See the image on page 23)

When everything has been reset, post up and Ill be back later.

tokenring

k, it's getting better. I think I have the idle right, the HSN is almost perfect now I just have to get the brakes right and the LSN back to default. Is it horizontal???

AB

experimental_pilot

Stop running your motor till you know what you're doing. You're going to ruin it.

You're telling me things, but you're not giving me any information. i.e How do you "think" you have the idle adjuster right? Is it set at 1mm or not?
How do you know the HSN is set right?

The LSN doesn't have any fixed position. Set it so it's flush.
Do this to learn more about your carb needles. Unscrew the HSN till it comes out. It's just a screw with a needle.
Then screw it back in till it's flush. From that I think you'll see how to set the LSN flush.

Like I said, reset everything to stock. Then well start fresh from there.

Snipin_Willy

After many years of playing with nitro motors you learn a few things.
1. Set all needles to stock settings, sounds like that might be flush with the collars that the needles are threaded into.
2. The "opening" for the carborator at idle setting should be about 1mm to 1.5mm open. Means the carborator's widest slit area should be 1 to 1.5mm.
3. Get the truck running. It should start without having to give it any throttle, however if it does not there is the LSN to adjust. Should be the needle that goes into the carborator from the side, generally where the throttle arm is. This is a VERY sensitive setting. Turn the needle about 30 degrees clockwise to lean the mixture. Try starting the truck again. Adjust the mixture till you have the engine running. Keep in mind you dont have to lean it so it runs smoothly yet, just so it starts.
4. Once you have the truck started and running (bogging) it's time to play with the HSN, located where the fuel enters the carborator. The HSN affects ALL fuel mixture going into the engine, where as the LSN only affects about 15% to 20% of your throttle travel, so as you lean out the HSN you are also adjusting your mixture of your LSN. 30 degree increments clockwise, same rule as the LSN. After each adjustment run you truck on a flat surface to see how it's running. You should always see some smoke from the exhaust no smoke indicates it's too lean.

As you tune your engine you will get an idea of how high the RPM should sound. It will sound fast, but if it sound like it is "screaming" uncontrollably you might lean the mixture a bit to be safe. Good investment is a temp gun or some type of infrared temp sensor to take occasional test aimed at the glow plug. Most run great in the 230 area. Fantom small blocks like mine run cold (190-230F) dont ask me why.

Another think to check is to see if you carb opening changes slightly or any if you press on the brake. Leave the truck off, use the transmitter to open the throttle and then release the throttle to see where your idle will set. Then use the transmitter to apply the brakes. If the throttle closes ANY from where it was you'll notice it while running the truck and might even shut the engine off if you try and use the brake. Thing to do here is to adjust the servo linkages so everything works and the idle setting doesn't change if you apply the brakes.

tokenring

The LSN is back to default because it is flush. I just wanted to confirm that flush meant the notch in the LSN was horizontal. Nevertheless, it is flush or very close.

The HSN is set to 1/8 clockwise just past flush. I remember that the notch on the HSN is vertical or at 1 o'clock when at perfect flush... at least on my car ) )

The idle screw. Okay, here it is again... When you take the air filter off and you look down at the carburetor, people say to have a 1mm - 1.5mm opening when it is in the idle position. I am asking which "SLIT" or "OPENING" are we talking about????

I see 2 "slits" or "openings" when I take the air filter off the carburetor. Do this so you can see what I'm saying cuz I don't have a pic

-face the car so that the FRONT end is facing RIGHT
-take off the air filter
-look down in the carburetor
-I see a slit or opening at the top of the circle (remember we're looking down at the carburetor with the front end facing right) which gets bigger as you open the throttle
-I ALSO see a slit or opening on the right side of the circle that really doesn't change in size, but it is there. It almost looks like a straight edge slit

So now I have those settings on my truck. It doesn't stall. It takes off fast. Smoke comes out when you drive it at all times. If you pinch the fuel line to turn it off, it revs up in about 2 seconds and turns off. It doesn't stall at full speed. Front end lifts up a bit if I WOT at the starting position. Barely any gas comes out of the exhaust when tilted on the side. I'll put up a video today and hopefully you guys will be able to tell. Thanks for everything.

I also played a bit with the LSN to give it more off the line. When I had the above settings for a bit, it was slow off the line so I leaned out the LSN a bit (tiny bit) and it rips off the line like I mentioned above.

I'll get a picture of the carburetor too so you can see what I mean. I would like to hear what others see in their carburetors too...

THIS TRUCK IS SICK WHEN IT GOES!!!!


AB

tcv_racing

tokenring its good to hear that you got your firestorm running like a champ now.. congratulations!

As for me, everything is doing good now my storm is alive again! thanks to the guys at my LHS..

tokenring

I'm going to Hobby Hobby again tonight to get some other parts. I bent one of the arms on the front a bit and I don't know the name of it off hand. PM, I have a couple of questions to ask you off line. Thanks everyone for helping us!!!

AB

kordasn

I believe that the car guy doesn't get there 'till 4 today. They're going to call me if one gets in earlier. Good to hear you got yours running nicely.

tokenring

not sure what you mean by the car guy??? I'm sure we can get whatever parts we need if they are in stock during the day no matter who is working. I'll be there just before 4 anyway...

AB

experimental_pilot

token, I told you, the slit in the carb is shown on PAGE 23 in the MANUAL. That's the only slit that matters. RTFM! I know you didn't read it!

supersound99ss

^yea there is a another square looking slit on the carb but u don't need to look at that, just half circle one at the top of the carb opening