-=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
#2326
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
The Heat Cycle Method is what a lot of us use.Its been out there a long time and is a proven method.
Its basiclly like this:
First stage:For the first 15 minutes,drive the truck in figure eights or circles in 3 minute intervals.After running the first 3 minutes,check to make sure the temps are above 180*.If it doesn't reach 180* lean out the LSN and the HSN 1/8 of a turn.THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THIS BREAK-IN METHOD IS TO SET THE PISTON AT BDC.(Bottom dead center)After you have completed the first stage,go into the second stage.
Second stage: For 20 minutes run the truck in 4 min. intervals,and make sure the temps reach 200-210*.Each time you shut of the engine,place the piston at BDC.
Its basiclly like this:
First stage:For the first 15 minutes,drive the truck in figure eights or circles in 3 minute intervals.After running the first 3 minutes,check to make sure the temps are above 180*.If it doesn't reach 180* lean out the LSN and the HSN 1/8 of a turn.THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THIS BREAK-IN METHOD IS TO SET THE PISTON AT BDC.(Bottom dead center)After you have completed the first stage,go into the second stage.
Second stage: For 20 minutes run the truck in 4 min. intervals,and make sure the temps reach 200-210*.Each time you shut of the engine,place the piston at BDC.
#2327
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
I basically do it like this. -> http://racefactorindustries.com/id1.html
I don't think there is any one "heat cycle method". Your engine will heat cycle whether you like it or not, you have to stop the engine sometime.
Here are some important tips.
-You must get the temperature up above +200°F. Use tin foil and a hair dryer/heat gun to help, especially, if you're idling with Rich settings.
-Rich is Good, but not too rich that it runs too cool.
-Be smooth and gradual with the throttle, no sudden blipping.
-Gradually increase the amount of the throttle that is used throughout break-in. Idle>25%>50%>75%>100%.
I don't think there is any one "heat cycle method". Your engine will heat cycle whether you like it or not, you have to stop the engine sometime.
Here are some important tips.
-You must get the temperature up above +200°F. Use tin foil and a hair dryer/heat gun to help, especially, if you're idling with Rich settings.
-Rich is Good, but not too rich that it runs too cool.
-Be smooth and gradual with the throttle, no sudden blipping.
-Gradually increase the amount of the throttle that is used throughout break-in. Idle>25%>50%>75%>100%.
#2328
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
ORIGINAL: experimental_pilot
I basically do it like this. -> http://racefactorindustries.com/id1.html
I don't think there is any one "heat cycle method". Your engine will heat cycle whether you like it or not, you have to stop the engine sometime.
Here are some important tips.
-You must get the temperature up above +200°F. Use tin foil and a hair dryer/heat gun to help, especially, if you're idling with Rich settings.
-Rich is Good, but not too rich that it runs too cool.
-Be smooth and gradual with the throttle, no sudden blipping.
-Gradually increase the amount of the throttle that is used throughout break-in. Idle>25%>50%>75%>100%.
I basically do it like this. -> http://racefactorindustries.com/id1.html
I don't think there is any one "heat cycle method". Your engine will heat cycle whether you like it or not, you have to stop the engine sometime.
Here are some important tips.
-You must get the temperature up above +200°F. Use tin foil and a hair dryer/heat gun to help, especially, if you're idling with Rich settings.
-Rich is Good, but not too rich that it runs too cool.
-Be smooth and gradual with the throttle, no sudden blipping.
-Gradually increase the amount of the throttle that is used throughout break-in. Idle>25%>50%>75%>100%.
#2335
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
It's not made for RC's, it's a bicycle light. It has two modes, Flash and Constant Beam.
This is it and I actually just found it outside on the street! lol
http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3032.html
I haven't tried it out yet, maybe later today.
This is it and I actually just found it outside on the street! lol
http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3032.html
I haven't tried it out yet, maybe later today.
#2336
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
I tried it out tonight and it's wicked! Especially on flash mode, it's looks like the flashing light on the back of an F1 car, except white and facing forward.
Maybe, I can get some video of it tomorrow, but my camera doesn't have sound.
Maybe, I can get some video of it tomorrow, but my camera doesn't have sound.
#2337
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
Went out today and run my storm on dirt, and boy was it running literally HOT!!! my temp guage was reading 334 deg![:@]
I richen the carb settings until raw fuel was spraying out of the pipe and checked the temp it was still hot 250 deg..
I was running with an OS#8 plug and 25% nitro, I will try to run it on cold plug and 20% nitro MAYBE it will run cooler..
But I know in my mind that I may have a bad air leak making it run hot, so how do I check for air leaks?
All I know is that I should spray the engine with soap and water mixture and check for bubbles..
Do I spray it while the engine is running? or Spray it while blowing air into the fuel line?
Thanks in advance!
I richen the carb settings until raw fuel was spraying out of the pipe and checked the temp it was still hot 250 deg..
I was running with an OS#8 plug and 25% nitro, I will try to run it on cold plug and 20% nitro MAYBE it will run cooler..
But I know in my mind that I may have a bad air leak making it run hot, so how do I check for air leaks?
All I know is that I should spray the engine with soap and water mixture and check for bubbles..
Do I spray it while the engine is running? or Spray it while blowing air into the fuel line?
Thanks in advance!
#2338
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
If it got that hot your engine probably lost a lot of its compression right on the spot.Spray or dab soapy water or bubbles (that kids blow with a wand),around every place that comes together,such as the heat sink and the underhead,the exhaust manifold and the exhaust outlet,etc...etc..A lose heat sink can cause major problems with over heating.A lose carb and banjo fittings should also be sealed off.The best sealent you can ever own is Permatex Ultra Copper.Stop in at your local auto shop and pick it up.
Git-er-done!
Git-er-done!
#2339
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
Thanks so much nate!!!
When I dab the soapy water should the engine be runnig or just blow air into the fuel line or blow air trough the carb??
I hope the engine is not that busted yet, anyway when I turn the flywheel with my fingers there is still resistance when the piston is going up (sign of compression)..
I just want to keep the stock engine running until I save enough money to buy the OS CVRX..
When I dab the soapy water should the engine be runnig or just blow air into the fuel line or blow air trough the carb??
I hope the engine is not that busted yet, anyway when I turn the flywheel with my fingers there is still resistance when the piston is going up (sign of compression)..
I just want to keep the stock engine running until I save enough money to buy the OS CVRX..
#2341
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
Don't bother trying to find leaks, just Seal the whole thing now. It's not worth your time trying to find a leak, when it's so easy to just seal it and eliminate that problem.
#2342
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
Ok guys here are the results of the air leak test:
Severe air leak found in:
1. Carburator -right where the throttle linkage connects
2. Main front bearing
Ill call HPI customer service today and ask them if I can send the engine in and have them repaired for free, coz my storm is only 4 months old..
Severe air leak found in:
1. Carburator -right where the throttle linkage connects
2. Main front bearing
Ill call HPI customer service today and ask them if I can send the engine in and have them repaired for free, coz my storm is only 4 months old..
#2343
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
Ive busy been building my new kart and motor for the past two days as im running really late. Got a race this weekend and i just fired it for the first time tonight. All my experince really comes from 1:1 scale racing, cars, motorcycles and shifter karts. I use metal because the metal cans have a tighter molecular structure as compared to plastic ones, allowing a lesser amount of volitile substances to escape. After about a month or two gas in plastic cans will become stale.
I have used only traxxas fuels since I owned my first nitro rc car about 6 or 7 yrs ago. I ran the 20% in the metal can untill they cam out with 33% and ive run that ever since and its been super easy to tune and made great power and allways ran cool and lasted long.
As for break in techniques its different for rc engine opposed to a standard piston ring engine because of a few factors such as cylinder pinch and oboviously lack of rings to break in. Its also a lot less fun as you cant heat cycle it once then run it at varying loads and get to run it hard early on. As for rc ive ran 100cc's idling let cool and repeated so i had 300ccs thru it before i drive it and start at up to 25% load and increased by 15% or so each tank.
Edit: I made my own gasket for the exhaust and my new shock tower and battery box will be in on friday but i got races this weekend so hopefully ill be able to bust out the firestorm at the bmx track again monday morning and see if the gasket i made holds up.
Still thinking about getting another rc still cant decide on 1/8th buggy again or try the 1/7 xtm xlb.
I have used only traxxas fuels since I owned my first nitro rc car about 6 or 7 yrs ago. I ran the 20% in the metal can untill they cam out with 33% and ive run that ever since and its been super easy to tune and made great power and allways ran cool and lasted long.
As for break in techniques its different for rc engine opposed to a standard piston ring engine because of a few factors such as cylinder pinch and oboviously lack of rings to break in. Its also a lot less fun as you cant heat cycle it once then run it at varying loads and get to run it hard early on. As for rc ive ran 100cc's idling let cool and repeated so i had 300ccs thru it before i drive it and start at up to 25% load and increased by 15% or so each tank.
Edit: I made my own gasket for the exhaust and my new shock tower and battery box will be in on friday but i got races this weekend so hopefully ill be able to bust out the firestorm at the bmx track again monday morning and see if the gasket i made holds up.
Still thinking about getting another rc still cant decide on 1/8th buggy again or try the 1/7 xtm xlb.
#2344
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
[:@]How could I forget the front bearing!My bro had that problem on his Savage.
Replacing the front bearing is a real chore.[:'(]You have to disasemble the engine and put the crankcase in the oven and cook it at 300 or 400*(I'm not quite sure.)But either way,the bearing should come out real easy.
BTW,I tried uploading my CV-RX video,but the file is to big for dial-up.I'll have to decrease the video size and try it again.[]
Replacing the front bearing is a real chore.[:'(]You have to disasemble the engine and put the crankcase in the oven and cook it at 300 or 400*(I'm not quite sure.)But either way,the bearing should come out real easy.
BTW,I tried uploading my CV-RX video,but the file is to big for dial-up.I'll have to decrease the video size and try it again.[]
#2345
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
[:@]I decreased the video size from 12mb to 7mb and its still not working.It stopped uploading at 44%..I'll try one more time,and if it doesn't work then I guess I'll have to make a short video thats 4mb.[&o]
#2346
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
hey my brother just got his firestorm yesterday for his birthday!!! It looks sick. Now i will have someone to race my tmaxx with at our backyard track. CAN'T WAIT!!! Tomorrow hopefully we will break it in. JUst one question... is it important to tune the engine immediatley after break in and not wait til the next time taking it out. For my tmaxx, I broke it in then put it away for the day without tuning. I want to make sure what to do since my maxx engine may be trashed after 2.5 gallons. And should I idle a half tank before starting to drive for break in? Thanks
#2347
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
I got the videos uploaded!FINALLY! Dial-up + ME=[sm=angry.gif][sm=tired.gif][sm=angry_smile.gif] LOL
I had to decrease the video size to 5mb,which then took 2 hours to upload...It is a little blury,but better than nothing.(i think)My tires are basicly on-road treadless tires right now.It bites pretty good on grass,but pukes on dirt.
Here it is: http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/h...Moviecverx.flv
I'll post this on my CV-RX installation thread.
I had to decrease the video size to 5mb,which then took 2 hours to upload...It is a little blury,but better than nothing.(i think)My tires are basicly on-road treadless tires right now.It bites pretty good on grass,but pukes on dirt.
Here it is: http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/h...Moviecverx.flv
I'll post this on my CV-RX installation thread.
#2349
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
wow ur giving that thing a beating. Parts are in at the LSH (30 min drive GAHH) cant wait to bust out the firestorm after my races this weekend. Getting a new phone tommorow so i might be able to get semi high res pics and a not super horrendus video of some of the nasty tripples at the track on mondy for you guys.