Pauole

The engine still revs up normally though, could it be the slipper clutch?

superb3rra

Don't think it's funny anymore..

NitroNate

Pauole: Tighten the spur gear,check for gravel or dirt in the gear mesh and wheels.Also make sure your dog bones are intact.

superb3rra:What are you talking about?

Pauole

K thanks nitro nate ill check my spur etc.

nitro rc

also check that ur drive shafts are not broken or disconnected.

dcfrickle32

ok i got my engine fixed and ready now i need to tune her up.....i tuned it but it seems like shes bogging down and then goin fine again but just not what i want. i dont have a temp gauge so whats the best way i can do this with out one???

nitro rc

that means it is too rich. At factory settings that is normal because for break in they are set very rich. So lean it out a bit.

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Hey guys I posted a thread in the wrong place. Could you please check out my thread titled "Problems with new Firestorm" thats posted in the main Nitro Stadium Trucks forum please? I need some help with this.

Thanks

Rob

dcfrickle32

ok i got it tuned but then once i got it running it goes good then it acts liek its runnign out of gas and then it quits and wont start up very easy again. then when i do get it started it goes for a lil bit then quits again like it ran out of gas but theres still a 1/4 left.

NitroNate

Make sure there are no kinks in the fuel lines.

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Does anyone know the factory settings for the idle and high and low speed needles on the Nitro Star 3.0 engine for the Firestorm?[sm=72_72.gif]


Rob

experimental_pilot

Idle = 1mm
Low = Flush (2 and 1/8 Out)
High = Flush (1 and 1/2 Out)

NitroNate

HSN and LSN factory settings are flush-Which means the screw(needle)head needs to be flush with its housing/fitting.

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Sweet! thanks!

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Can someone help me rig my Firestorm's throttle and brake linkage please? This thing is killing me. Whenever I get the linkage to put the engine at idle with the 1 mm gap it won't go past 50% max power. The carb will only open about 50-60%
Right now I have the brakes rigged where there is a tiny gap when the engine is at idle and engages the brake nicely when applied, but like I said when I pull the trigger to full power the carb will only open so far. Of course when I adjust the linkage to allow full 100% throttle then I lose the idle gap. What am I doing wrong????
All servos and trims are centered while this is happening.

Rob

NitroNate

On page 90 on this thread,windowlicker talks about it.He also found a solution.If you want to know how to do it,PM him.

windowlicker

Hey Rob,

I noticed that when I rebuilt my Firestorm. Basically, with the stock linkage, when you correctly set the servo and linkage, you can only get about 80-90% of the carb opening. to get the last little bit of travel, I cut up a spare servo horn, and stuck it ontop of the stock servo horn. You only need to extend the linkage by about 3-4mm. Just make sure you have the servo horn centred when you put it on, I'm concerned you said that you only get 60% throttle, that sounds like a big difference to what I had. You need to put the radios trim to the centre, turn the radio and car on, and place the servo horn on the servo to get it as inline with the servo body as possible (just as it says in the manual) then use the radios trim to get it perfect. Then adjust the linkages AFTER that.


Here is a pic of the mod I did.

windowlicker

just remembered, you also have to loosen the brass nut on the carb (where the linkage connects to the carb, there are a few brass parts) and tighten it when you have the correct position, its impossible for me to describe it to you, but I'm sure with a bit of a play, you will get what I mean. Its a complete pain in the ass, but that will probably increase your carb movement from 50-60% to 80-90%, the servo horn mod will give you the last bit of travel you are after.

The results are well worth the time it takes to get it sorted. Obviously, a fully open carb means full power! You will see the results the next time you run!

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Hey Windowlicker,

Thanks for the info on the throttle linkage. I have not even run the car yet. I just aquired this from an guy at work I traded with. It was pretty neglected. He told me that he never even heard of an After Run Procedure and then told me he let it sit in his garage for 6-8 months probably with fuel in the tank, lines, and engine.[X(]I decided to give it the love it deserves and performed a good wholesome inspection, When I started to inspect it for problems or whatever I found the fuel tank was riddled with gummy crud and everything was just coated in dirt and all. So, I tore the whole thing down and cleaned it real nicely with some nitro cleaner and denatured alcohol and began to rebuild it yesterday. Eventually I got it to look brand new.[8D] Magic Eraser works wonders on lexan bodies and stuff!! I actually really enjoy taking my cars and trucks apart just for the heck of it because I am a tinkerer. So I finally got to the throttle/brake linkage and began setting it up with my JR X2i radio that I bought for like $10 on ebay and I ran into this problem. I even recrystaled the stock radio to see if that was still a problem and it was. Now is this a normal occurance with an out of the box truck? I mean this FS has ZERO upgrades and was only ran 3-4 times. Its still pretty new. I tried all kinds of different adjustments with the radios and the linkages and still got a NULL area. I am going to contact HPI tomorrow and see what they think. As far as your modification did you use CA glue to attach the extended piece to the original servo? Did you just buy another servo horn just like the original?

Rob

windowlicker

I had a spare one lying around, think it was either another stock one, or a spare one from my hitec servo. All I did was use superglue and made sure it was properly dry before I tried it. It has never budged, and I dont think you'd need anything stronger like bolts or screws, its only a weak SF1 servo anyway.

But yeah, play with the brass nut and adjust the swiveling linkage, and mod the servo horn and you will get the 100% travel you want. I believe that HPI didn't refine their linkage enough, and guessed 80% throttle would just be enough for everyone. If you have a digital radio, like a Spektum, you wont have to both doing anything, you could just extend the EPA by 10-20% to get the extra reach.

Nice to know there are other tinkers around! I spend many more hours stripping down my cars, cleaning and maintaining them than I ever do running them. I really enjoy that part of the hobby, and it pi$$es me off when you get kids who just pick up cars and thrash them and expect they do not require any maintenance to have them running well. I HAVE to know my car is set up perfectly, with no binding etc!

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

I am trying to use a JR X2i and I can adjust the EPA but it's not helping. I don't think I am doing it right. I will try the brass nut thing though. It sure seems like I can get 100% travel out of the servo but I just can't get the travel set to close the carb and open it all then way in one pull of the trigger. Strange.

windowlicker

the nut thing might be the only thing you have to do then, because the G3.0 is a rotary carb, you have to set it up so there is maximum horizontal travel as it rotates. You might find that it is moving diagonally or vertically instead of horizontally. If I'm confusing you, you will understand when you loosen that nut and move the carb around

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Alright, I will try that. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks buddy.

txfirestormracer

Has anyone thought about running there firestrom in any local LHS 1/10 2wd club races. I have been going to the track the past few months here in Dallas and my little strom can get around the track pretty dang good with a set of Pro Line Bow Ties M3, i caint take the big doubles like the 1/8 buggies and truggies can but besides that the storm seems like a damn good race truck right out of the box. I know most racers run the Losi and the Asso trucks but im thinking racing against them in my local club races...plus since going to the track and racing against the 1/8 buggies and truggies i will be a new owner of one before i know it....those things FLY!!

nitro-rob

I just bought a firestorm last week and the truck has been great except the spur gear came misaligned and I stripped two of the hex head engine mount bolts adjusting it. Damn loctite. I stripped the head, not the threads. Any suggestions on how the pro's remove them? I have done it on larger vehicles by just drilling the bolt out. Surely the shop can do this no problem, but this isn't why I got into this.

I plan on removing the engine often and will likely acquire a spare to reduce down time. Would you recommend me locking these bolts in the future or just checking them very often?

I have been reading through the forum and have received a lot of good advice. There are definitely a lot of pro's in here. As I see it I will make mistakes while I learn the tricks and get to know the truck and there will be a lot of down time at first but this will go down as I acquire a stock of parts and gain experience (or learn the hard way). This forum helped me avoid a few problems already (ie. loose parts and settings) that would have given me serious down time.

I love the custom parts...can anyone recommend a forum on fabrication?