Blackfoot

KEMO, Where does Traxxas state any specs on the engines HP and RPM being 50,000?
http://www.nitroreview.com/TheDatabase/homeengines.cfm

I have a Sport with a 2.5 that will walk all over a OS .18 CV-RX. Yest it has been ported, but its still a TRX motor.
The motor has over 6 gallons through it, the truck well over 15+ all on stock/original susp arms, tranny, axles, radio. Its a 1998 Sport.

Here, ill show you a video. Before you open your mouth about having to tune it. This is its first outing after the porting and with a new high RPM pipe that isnt designed for low torque, thus the sluggish off the line acceleration. That ant it was 18degrees F at 5:30pm and the temperature was dropping fast, making a dead on tune impossible.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvA5Q7t2VEU

Blackfoot

Been there done that, A .15 Pro is alot more motor then a sickly OS .12 CV-R. Your GT couldnt handle any of the abuse that we go through. Ive seen many a GT fold up on a good bash outing, single plate chassis, LOL. Its a kids toy to run in circles, not to take out and hit gravel banks and fly 15+ feet in the air, land and keep going. Ball diffs last forever, LOL thats funny as hell. They do last forever when you have a stockpile of them in the toolbox not being used. They last as long as you muffler bearings do, I hope you are using a mufler brake with the bearings, else they wear out quick. Oh I see where you get our misled info from, your one of the STS clan, who "know it all". Your clan is running unattended spewing your gosple, no wonder you got involved with this. Im just waiting on the other 2 of your cult to chime in now. They know who they are.

pre98zetec

LOL what the hell kinda **** are you on! must be some good stuff!! the 2.5 makes something that little os motor will never make, good thing called torque!

Kemo

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thats the biggest BS post I have ever read from you, and there are over 400 of em you have posted. The pro .15 puts out the a little more power than a OS Cz-z, which is about the same power of a .12 cv.

OS's .12 cv-r is still winning stadium truck races out there, and its still got more top end than the 2.5 could ever dream of. The .15 cv-r puts out more torque than the 2.5, and its a known fact.

And about traxxas claiming 50,000 rpm, look in the magazines. they advertise it.

pre98zetec

woo races! awesome!! they break what, 40mph max?

why do you bash trx motors so bad? anything people say you always come back with another motor that's better, will 'last longer', take it for what it is, its a very powerful FACTORY motor.

Proof that the os .15cvr has more torque?


Ive never ONCE seen an article on ANY TRX motor that claimed 50krpm, pic for proof cause i know thats pure BS.

Kemo

As quoted when the jato was to be released:

You wont see it in magazines anymore because traxxas knows its pure BS. their engines peak around 35k.

Oh and blackfoot, just by the way the engine sounds, takes way too long to wind up. LSN needs to be leaned out

Banana Turbo

Black foot was right though serious traction problems that road was covered in ice. I bet traction was better in the snow.

I don't know the 2.5 engine very well and have only heard a few. But that did sound slighly rich. But engines do in extreme cold.

But it's his engine im sure he knows how lean he can set it before it starts konking out as soon as he hits the gas.

pre98zetec

that road was not covered in ice.

NZ_Nitro

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Kemo

i know for a fact that the 2.5 is more explosive on low end than in that video. the low speed needle was on the rich side.

pre98zetec

yes that low end is terribly rich. i told him that in the vid too.

Kemo

even for something ported... if its ported, it should have power like a light switch. On, or off.

Blackfoot

The road was completely bare, its road salt that you see in the video. Yes it was cold, 18f when the video started and dropped to 10f when it was finished all in 30 minutes. I had it a lil rich, thats how I prefer to run them, esp in cold temp.

Kemo

if its already cold, then why would you still want to be rich? That makes absolutely no sense. If it blows smoke at midrange and top end, then lean out the low end. It wont hurt anything, its how the engine was designed to run. All you are doing is drawing in more fuel than you need to be.

Blackfoot

You are totaly lost, the temp outside dropped 8 degrees in 30 minutes from 18 down to 10. If you think you can turn a screwdriver fast enuff to compensate the drastic temp change then get over here and show me how its done. Bring your "Racer" with ya, Id love to drag race it for pinks.

You obviously cant read and what you do let sink in is ONLY what you want to. Read my post boy, its a "HIGH RPM" pipe, yes the LSN is set rich, it was its first outing after the porting. I wasnt going to spend the night freezing my nads off to please "Your expertice in tuning". When the temp warm up outside, Ill post you a video of what it can do.

Blackfoot

So you lean your engine out when its cold out? And your a racer with a sponsor?[sm=drowning.gif] I need to contact them and show then your screwed up way of thinking. BTW, when its 10-18 how can you possibly tell what is smoke or warm exhaust? The extra fuel that it doesnt need(so you say) is to compensate for the higher oxygen enriched denser(like your skull) air, which will amke the engine run dry and hot, richening in these fridgid temp as the video is recorded in, is required to keep the engine running at acceptable temps and well lubricated. Try to read a lil, you might actually learn some valuable knowledge, if you can let anything sink in.

Cold air has more oxygen in it so you have to richen the carb settings to account for the extra oxygen or else risk damage.

Here some valuable reading for tunetarded RC'ers I copy pasted the tuning part for you KEMO, since you "THINK" you run a nitro "LEAN" in cold temps.

http://www.*********.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm

Temperature. Hot weather requires a leaner mixture setting; cold weather requires a richer setting. Most people assume the opposite because they treat the mixture needle like a thermostat. It is wrong to assume that colder weather requires a leaner setting to keep heat in the engine and vice versa. Cold air is denser than hot air. The denser, colder air packs more oxygen into the engine, so going from hot weather to cold needs a commensurate increase of fuel to balance ratio of fuel-burning oxygen and the fuel itself. The opposite is true in hotter weather. Going from cold to hot weather requires a leaner mixture setting.

TUNING
This chart indicates the direction in which you should adjust the fuel mixture when faced with changing weather and other conditions. It assumes the engine is currently well tuned. You could face any combination of conditions listed in the chart; knowing which way to go with the mixture adjustments is half the battle.
Higher air temperature Lean
Lower air temperature Rich
Higher humidity Lean
Lower humidity Rich
Higher barometric pressure Rich
Lower barometric pressure Lean
Higher altitude Lean
Lower altitude Rich
Higher nitro content Rich
Lower nitro content Lean
Higher oil content Lean
Lower oil content Rich
Hotter glow plug Rich
Colder glow plug Lean

car freak

hey I 'm in the market too and it down to a rc10gt2 or firestorm and I'm curios to see what you get. If you get a firestorm, you should post some pics, maybe a vid ( just a suggestion).

Kemo

Yours clearly isn't. You obviously STILL dont get it. If it were 60 degrees and you tried running it now, your tuning would be way off, because you have it "tuned" to 10-20 degrees. Its common sense to richen it up in colder weather driving. But it doesn't mean to make it pig rich on the bottom end, like yours is. Your posts are always hostile, consisting of trying to make yourself a way of proving someone wrong, because in the end, you have to be right all the time. Quite frankly, its annoying. And being the forum troll you are, way to hijack a thread.

Oh and by the way your engine is STILL not tuned right.
===========================
But to get back to the original topic, the RC10GT2 and firestorm are still your best choices on the market.

Blackfoot

TUNE TO CURRENT TEMP!!!!!! NOT FUTURE TEMPS, DO YOU GET IT????

My LSN is a slight turn off, but in the video(.Ill repeat this for you 1 more time, so read close and pay close attention and re-read if necessary) This was the v e r y f i r s t run after porting the engine and adding a H i g h R P M pipe. So it was off tune, and the temperature dropped(you know, lowered) 8 degrees in less then 30 minutes. SO tuning to perfection wasnt possible. Do you GET IT NOW???? Try to re-read it a little slower and let it sink in this time.

*** are you babbling about? No s**t if it was 60 it would be too rich, DUH!!!! Its not 60 is 14 right now, when it reaches 60 it will be tuned for 60, damn are you thick! Ever hear anyone say, Tune to temp, tune to atomosphere, tune to elevation. DAMN Ive heard some stupid crap from you, but you are as clueless as they come. LOL if I tried to run it right now in 60 degree temps it would be way off, you must be 12yrs old. Its WINTER moroff, not SUMMER. Its 20ish degrees, NOT 60ish. Its tuned for the weather it currently is outside, do you understand? Do you want me to type slower for you? Or use phonics?



Still doesnt answer your backwards way of thinking when tuning to temp. It goes like this COLD = RICHEN, WARM = LEAN

Blackfoot

Have to be hostle to get something through to kids like you. You think you have all the answers, no matter how wrong they are, you force them down everyones throats till they choke on them and still swear by the wrong advise and answers. You havent a clue 60%(im being very generous here) of the time what you are talking about. The rest you make up or skim through posts and take bits and pieces of them, then twist thm to fit your needs. When your called out on your wrong advies or bogus info, you completely avoid the issues and bring up more misled info.

Kemo

you are starting an argument with something I'm not even arguing... just so you can try to win. Congrats, you are an official forum troll. My statement was that YOUR engine is TOO rich on the low end. And here you are trying to run words down my throat I never said.

Blackfoot

Your words are right there in black and white.

Kemo

yes they are... I said that your engine, was too rich on the low side of the carb. I said absolutely nothing about your high speed needle... which is what sets your fuel mixture. Why didn't I? because by listening to how your engine revs in the video, I can tell its right... BUT, its too rich on the low end.

YOU misunderstood what I meant by leaning it out... only the LOW SPEED NEEDLE, not your high speed.

Blackfoot

DUDE YOU NEED TO STAND UP YOUR BRAIN IS UNDER TO MUCH PRESSURE! IT IS WHAT IT IS- UNDER $300 TRAXXAS IS THE WAY TO GO! PRICE QAULITY AND PREFORMANCE -ONLY ONES TO TELL ANYONE ANY DIFFERENT IMO PROBABLY NEVER OWNED ONE!

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

you won't see your exhaust when it's too lean in the winter unless there's water in your fuel. when you start up a 1:1 car, the "smoke" you see when ti's warming up is water or condensation deposited in the catalytic converter and/or muffler. you will not see it when there's a temperature difference in the air unless there's a butt-ton of moisture in the warm air, which is why you can see your breath.

School's over, son, now go to recess and don't forget your knee pads and helmet

BTW, i've owned a Nitro Rustler and a Nitro Sport. the HPI Nitro Rush, RC10GT, XXXNT are all FAR better cars-PERIOD. the 2.5 is a pile of leaky crap that can't get out of its own way, and if you think the .12CV-R will be outpowered by a Pro .15, you're living in a Traxxas-fellating fantasy world.

Don't forget to charge your Queasy Start battery[X(]