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  1. #1
    zud00's Avatar
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    Carb/brakes question

    On my GTX (i am still breaking it in) i pulled the air filter off to check the gap for idle and whatnot. it seems fine, but when i apply the brakes, the carb closes. Sure enough, when I tried to apply the breaks while it was running, it proceeded to stall.

    My question is...is there a proper way to set up the linkage so that the carb does not close when I brake? I wouldn't think it should move when I apply the brakes, it should only go back to the idle setting, but that's just my thought of how it should be.
    Savage X w/LRP z28 spec 3
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  2. #2
    MORE SPEED's Avatar
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    RE: Carb/brakes question

    On the carb, turn up the idle screw until that when you brake, it doesn't dip the revs and/or stall.

    MORE SPEED
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  3. #3
    zud00's Avatar
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    RE: Carb/brakes question

    I adjusted the idle needle and now the carb stays open when i brake. Thanks for the tip. NOw i just need to figure out how to get the brakes to work.

    I'm guessing I need to mess with the linkage. Anyoine have a tip on how to get the linkage set up for good braking power?
    Savage X w/LRP z28 spec 3
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  4. #4
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    RE: Carb/brakes question

    I don't know about the MGT speciffically but I can tell you generally how I set up all my nitro vehicles.

    First, take the linkage off the carb.
    While holding the carb lightly closed with one hand screw the idle screw in (to increase the gap) or out (to decrease the gap) until the idle gap is between 1mm & 2mm wide.
    Now set the throttle trim knob on the transmitter. I prefer to set it in the middle so I can bump up the idle or add a bit of brakes with the trim. Others prefer it set it all the way left to give them more idle adjstment.
    Turn on the radio in the truck and at the transmitter.
    Now reconnect the linkage to the carb.
    Adjust it so that the part that activates the throttle is barely touching what it pulls/pushes against w/o touchng the throttle.
    Now adjust the part of the linkage that activates the brake so that w/o touching the throttle there is no brake applied but so that when you fully apply the brake you get maximum preasure applied. The brake adjustment can be the tricky part as sometimes you need to change the spring (or fuel tubing) to get it to perform the way you want.
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  5. #5
    zud00's Avatar
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    RE: Carb/brakes question

    I think I have it set up right because now when I brake, the carb doesn't close, infact it doesn't even close a bit. When I had it runnning and then braked, the revs didn't dip any either, so I guess that is good. However, these brakes really suck. I guess I just need to make some adjustments to the linkage.
    Savage X w/LRP z28 spec 3
    Bash Big or Go Home!!!

  6. #6

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    RE: Carb/brakes question

    I dont know the GTX either, but you might need to tighten up the brake plates/shoes.

    I had to this on my Firestorm. Its a very fine adjustment to get them biting when you want with no drag.
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  7. #7

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    RE: Carb/brakes question

    I`ve had a few GTX`s back when they came out . On the rod going to the brake arm , there will be two collers with set screws in them . The one closest to the shock tower is the one that will give you more brake . Move the coller forward a bit and then try your brakes and go from there and so on . Depending on where you set the other coller[the one closest to the engine] , you might need to move it forward a bit to have the room to move the rear one . This should get you in the right place and adjust to your liking .


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