WD-40
#28
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RE: WD-40
What really amazes me is people are willing to take a chance with their $100 plus engine over a $3 bottle of after run oil, which last a LONG time. Makes no sense what so ever or is it some just do not have good sense? LOL
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RE: WD-40
ORIGINAL: Nathan9492
WD-40 also tends to eat away ur bearings, i honestly wouldnt use it
WD-40 also tends to eat away ur bearings, i honestly wouldnt use it
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RE: WD-40
I really don't believe it is corrosive, and eats bearings. If anything, it may contribute to early bearing failure, due to washing away all the oil. WD-40 displaces moisture, this is true. But it also displaces oil.
And just because Traxxas recommends it, doesn't mean it's the right way. That is a company that I wouldn't trust to give the whole answer, or the right answer.(Just ask them how much oil is in their fuel)
And just because Traxxas recommends it, doesn't mean it's the right way. That is a company that I wouldn't trust to give the whole answer, or the right answer.(Just ask them how much oil is in their fuel)
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RE: WD-40
ORIGINAL: DRAKE-ULA
wd40 is good stuff, but not the best for after run oil, although it is better than nothing.
marvel mystery oil is a great after run oil. probably as good as any after run oil on the market.
twomanytoys is correct. there is an additive in sidewinder fuels that practically eliminates the need for any afterun oil. i switched from trinity race blend to sidewinder a few years back and the stuff is great. it tunes like the premium fuels such as byrons and odonnels which is really saying a lot.
wd40 is good stuff, but not the best for after run oil, although it is better than nothing.
marvel mystery oil is a great after run oil. probably as good as any after run oil on the market.
twomanytoys is correct. there is an additive in sidewinder fuels that practically eliminates the need for any afterun oil. i switched from trinity race blend to sidewinder a few years back and the stuff is great. it tunes like the premium fuels such as byrons and odonnels which is really saying a lot.
When you rebuild a 13b motor for an mazda rx-7 which is a rotor engine with an aluminum houseing and chrome sleeves inside they tell you to use marvel mystery oil and tranny fluid on the motor for a few reasons. If any of you ever own an older rx-7 you will learn the sometimes the rotor seals get stuck in the up position and when this happens you lose compression so all you need to do is grab a spray bottle and spray some tranny fluid in the motor and the seal becomes unstuck. They use the marvel mystery oil to coat the surface's between the rotor and the housing on the cam shaft and a few other places.
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RE: WD-40
ORIGINAL: avg_joe
I really don't believe it is corrosive, and eats bearings. If anything, it may contribute to early bearing failure, due to washing away all the oil. WD-40 displaces moisture, this is true. But it also displaces oil.
And just because Traxxas recommends it, doesn't mean it's the right way. That is a company that I wouldn't trust to give the whole answer, or the right answer.(Just ask them how much oil is in their fuel)
I really don't believe it is corrosive, and eats bearings. If anything, it may contribute to early bearing failure, due to washing away all the oil. WD-40 displaces moisture, this is true. But it also displaces oil.
And just because Traxxas recommends it, doesn't mean it's the right way. That is a company that I wouldn't trust to give the whole answer, or the right answer.(Just ask them how much oil is in their fuel)
Nobody is asking you to trust Traxxas but you should pick a different example than oil content in the fuel. There are other, highly reputable and reccomended fuel manufacturers that refuse to publish the oil content in their fuel also.
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RE: WD-40
ORIGINAL: avg_joe
I really don't believe it is corrosive, and eats bearings. If anything, it may contribute to early bearing failure, due to washing away all the oil. WD-40 displaces moisture, this is true. But it also displaces oil.
And just because Traxxas recommends it, doesn't mean it's the right way. That is a company that I wouldn't trust to give the whole answer, or the right answer.(Just ask them how much oil is in their fuel)
I really don't believe it is corrosive, and eats bearings. If anything, it may contribute to early bearing failure, due to washing away all the oil. WD-40 displaces moisture, this is true. But it also displaces oil.
And just because Traxxas recommends it, doesn't mean it's the right way. That is a company that I wouldn't trust to give the whole answer, or the right answer.(Just ask them how much oil is in their fuel)
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RE: WD-40
ORIGINAL: David302
I agree that WD40 isn’t corrosive I was just wondering what information 46u would come up with to support his statement. I really have no problem with anyone choosing not to use any product for any reason but when they make an assertion that it can damage “eat away ur bearings†I would like to see some proof.
ORIGINAL: avg_joe
I really don't believe it is corrosive, and eats bearings. If anything, it may contribute to early bearing failure, due to washing away all the oil. WD-40 displaces moisture, this is true. But it also displaces oil.
And just because Traxxas recommends it, doesn't mean it's the right way. That is a company that I wouldn't trust to give the whole answer, or the right answer.(Just ask them how much oil is in their fuel)
I really don't believe it is corrosive, and eats bearings. If anything, it may contribute to early bearing failure, due to washing away all the oil. WD-40 displaces moisture, this is true. But it also displaces oil.
And just because Traxxas recommends it, doesn't mean it's the right way. That is a company that I wouldn't trust to give the whole answer, or the right answer.(Just ask them how much oil is in their fuel)
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RE: WD-40
WET-DOWN - 40
I have heard/read that it contains FISH oil. I have seen this info a couple of times. I have been a mechanic for many years and sprayed a lot of stuff. WD-40 has never impressed me with any of their claims. I like to use Marvel Mystery Oil and /or ATF. Have you ever seen rust inside of an automatic transmission? Or an A/T technician with dirty hands? WD-40 is a great starting fluid as its propellant is a propane/butane mix! And it can be used as a weapon if you hold a lighter in front of the spray!!
I have heard/read that it contains FISH oil. I have seen this info a couple of times. I have been a mechanic for many years and sprayed a lot of stuff. WD-40 has never impressed me with any of their claims. I like to use Marvel Mystery Oil and /or ATF. Have you ever seen rust inside of an automatic transmission? Or an A/T technician with dirty hands? WD-40 is a great starting fluid as its propellant is a propane/butane mix! And it can be used as a weapon if you hold a lighter in front of the spray!!
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RE: WD-40
ORIGINAL: fcomer84
WET-DOWN - 40
I have heard/read that it contains FISH oil. I have seen this info a couple of times. I have been a mechanic for many years and sprayed a lot of stuff. WD-40 has never impressed me with any of their claims. I like to use Marvel Mystery Oil and /or ATF. Have you ever seen rust inside of an automatic transmission? Or an A/T technician with dirty hands? WD-40 is a great starting fluid as its propellant is a propane/butane mix! And it can be used as a weapon if you hold a lighter in front of the spray!!
WET-DOWN - 40
I have heard/read that it contains FISH oil. I have seen this info a couple of times. I have been a mechanic for many years and sprayed a lot of stuff. WD-40 has never impressed me with any of their claims. I like to use Marvel Mystery Oil and /or ATF. Have you ever seen rust inside of an automatic transmission? Or an A/T technician with dirty hands? WD-40 is a great starting fluid as its propellant is a propane/butane mix! And it can be used as a weapon if you hold a lighter in front of the spray!!
No and NO
It does not have fish oil in it - no matter how many times you've read it.
The propellant is common CO2 - not propane or butane or a mix of them.
And if you want to light it and risk it flashing back into the can and exploding in your hand, have at it but not me.
Read the Manufacturers Safety Data Sheet if you want to cut through all the BS floating around. MSDS are a federal requirement and, believe me, the fines are too steep for a company to lie or omit ingredients.
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RE: WD-40
ORIGINAL: DaveG55
Ummmm, that was nathan9492 that made the "eating the bearing" comment, not 46u. 46u usually has good info and personal experience or valid reasons/concerns to back up his comments.
ORIGINAL: David302
I agree that WD40 isn’t corrosive I was just wondering what information 46u would come up with to support his statement. I really have no problem with anyone choosing not to use any product for any reason but when they make an assertion that it can damage “eat away ur bearings†I would like to see some proof.
ORIGINAL: avg_joe
I really don't believe it is corrosive, and eats bearings. If anything, it may contribute to early bearing failure, due to washing away all the oil. WD-40 displaces moisture, this is true. But it also displaces oil.
And just because Traxxas recommends it, doesn't mean it's the right way. That is a company that I wouldn't trust to give the whole answer, or the right answer.(Just ask them how much oil is in their fuel)
I really don't believe it is corrosive, and eats bearings. If anything, it may contribute to early bearing failure, due to washing away all the oil. WD-40 displaces moisture, this is true. But it also displaces oil.
And just because Traxxas recommends it, doesn't mean it's the right way. That is a company that I wouldn't trust to give the whole answer, or the right answer.(Just ask them how much oil is in their fuel)
An interesting side note on ATF. Many (too many) years ago I was trying to scrape the carbon off the inside of the combustion chamber of an aluminum 2cycle head with out scratching it all up. An old time mechanic dropped by and suggested I use ATF. I did as he said and slightly warmed the head then turned it upside down and filled it with ATF. A few hours later I took a rag and all the carbon just wiped away. It was as clean as a whistle.
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RE: WD-40
whatever you do, do not use hydrochloric acid, salt water, or chloroseptic throat spray. they give results that are questionable at best.
even though i have been running sidewinder, i have also used trinity final solution.
even though i have been running sidewinder, i have also used trinity final solution.
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RE: WD-40
ORIGINAL: DRAKE-ULA
whatever you do, do not use hydrochloric acid, salt water, or chloroseptic throat spray. they give results that are questionable at best.
even though i have been running sidewinder, i have also used trinity final solution.
whatever you do, do not use hydrochloric acid, salt water, or chloroseptic throat spray. they give results that are questionable at best.
even though i have been running sidewinder, i have also used trinity final solution.
#40
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RE: WD-40
Correct me if I am wrong but who other then Traxxas recommend WD 40 as after run oil. All so have to wonder if WD 40 is a good after run oil or some just hoping to sell more engines? LOL
#41
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RE: WD-40
I’ve wondered the same thing but it seems to me if it shortened the life of my engine I would blame the engine and be less likely to replace it with the same brand.
All in all I really think the most important thing is to flush the methanol out of the engine.
All in all I really think the most important thing is to flush the methanol out of the engine.
#43
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RE: WD-40
Hi Guys, see www.inox-mx3.com
to try and resolve this infinite debate for RCers, Bikers, Gun people etc.
WD40 is hydroscopic and is derived from petroleum not fishoil or any other thing.
It is not so good for the applications above but rather a cleaner, dispersant etc.
To store the above equipments RC enginines Guns Bike chains and parts, razor blades, scalpels etc etc etc use the Australian made INOX ( less viscous) or LANOX (slightly thicker from Lanoline) in spray or liquid form Both are fine Lanox for longer storage as well. This product IS a lubricant, Self Capilliaring so it soaks through to all nooks and crannies and will stay on the surface forever practically till article is used again.
It will even penetrate metal to 3 microns for further protection.
In Australia for 20 years its used on many applications including farm tools left out in the elements.
It will polish SSteel and is great on Sail runners etc etc
It is far more effective than WD40 for these discussed applications.
Inox will not harm any rubber silicone, metal etc it is non acidic and completely inert and Is a lubricant.
WD40 is an excellent product and perfect for its wide range of uses.
to try and resolve this infinite debate for RCers, Bikers, Gun people etc.
WD40 is hydroscopic and is derived from petroleum not fishoil or any other thing.
It is not so good for the applications above but rather a cleaner, dispersant etc.
To store the above equipments RC enginines Guns Bike chains and parts, razor blades, scalpels etc etc etc use the Australian made INOX ( less viscous) or LANOX (slightly thicker from Lanoline) in spray or liquid form Both are fine Lanox for longer storage as well. This product IS a lubricant, Self Capilliaring so it soaks through to all nooks and crannies and will stay on the surface forever practically till article is used again.
It will even penetrate metal to 3 microns for further protection.
In Australia for 20 years its used on many applications including farm tools left out in the elements.
It will polish SSteel and is great on Sail runners etc etc
It is far more effective than WD40 for these discussed applications.
Inox will not harm any rubber silicone, metal etc it is non acidic and completely inert and Is a lubricant.
WD40 is an excellent product and perfect for its wide range of uses.
#44
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RE: WD-40
i have alway's used WD-40 as a cleaner for my cars. it breaks down the dirt and oil left after playing and seems to restore old plastic parts that get brittle( for example after spraying nitro cleaner plastic parts stain white and are dried out, spraying the whole chassis with WD-40 and let sit about 10 minutes then blow and wipe off as much as possible you car will be like new) also clean's electric parts really good just my experiance, if this is wrong let me know if you dont have after run oil and dont plan on buying any then use WD-40 but if you care about your engine and want it to last a 3 dollar bottle of oil seems pretty stupid to question!
#45
RE: WD-40
i'm not going to read all of this thread, but i will put my $.02 in.
WD-40 is a lubricant but a very thin momentary lubricant that does not stay where you spray.
it's also a penitrating fluid for rusty bolts or to free rusty links in chains or to free up otherwise stuck moving parts.
it does stop squeaks but is also petroleum based and will once it soaks in to rubber/plastic parts or seals will ultimately result in their destruction.
keep in mind that traxxas is a company that survives on your dollar.
to me it would make sense for them to have you use this as an after run oil cuz in the short/long run it will destroy the seals in your engines. then they get more of your dollar for repairs.
if this was not the case ,all their RC's would come RTR will every available hop-up and they would need nothing and still cost about the same.
basiclly they want your dollar.
most after run oils however are also petrolium based as well but are better suited for our needs in these engines.
they do all the same stuff as WD-40 but with a thicker viscosity.
plus it doesn't gum up like WD-40 when it sits.
there are a couple brands of after run oil out there that are silicone based and will protect the silicone/rubber seals in your engines.
as far as WD-40 helping the plastic parts of our RC's, guess again, in two three years or less the parts will get brittle and start looking like an old dash board of a car that sat to long in the summer sun.
i've seen it happen.
www.rbmods.net has silicone based after run oil for this purpose and it works fantastic.
oh, and it does NOT eat bearings, it eats rust and protects metal from rust.
can also be used as a coolant for drilling, milling, cutting, etc............................................... ......................
WD-40 is a lubricant but a very thin momentary lubricant that does not stay where you spray.
it's also a penitrating fluid for rusty bolts or to free rusty links in chains or to free up otherwise stuck moving parts.
it does stop squeaks but is also petroleum based and will once it soaks in to rubber/plastic parts or seals will ultimately result in their destruction.
keep in mind that traxxas is a company that survives on your dollar.
to me it would make sense for them to have you use this as an after run oil cuz in the short/long run it will destroy the seals in your engines. then they get more of your dollar for repairs.
if this was not the case ,all their RC's would come RTR will every available hop-up and they would need nothing and still cost about the same.
basiclly they want your dollar.
most after run oils however are also petrolium based as well but are better suited for our needs in these engines.
they do all the same stuff as WD-40 but with a thicker viscosity.
plus it doesn't gum up like WD-40 when it sits.
there are a couple brands of after run oil out there that are silicone based and will protect the silicone/rubber seals in your engines.
as far as WD-40 helping the plastic parts of our RC's, guess again, in two three years or less the parts will get brittle and start looking like an old dash board of a car that sat to long in the summer sun.
i've seen it happen.
www.rbmods.net has silicone based after run oil for this purpose and it works fantastic.
oh, and it does NOT eat bearings, it eats rust and protects metal from rust.
can also be used as a coolant for drilling, milling, cutting, etc............................................... ......................
#46
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RE: WD-40
Nobody has brought up the use of just plain engine oil......good ol' 5w-30.
The reason I'm trying engine oil was the failure of "Blue Block" ARO. The failure happened in an OS. .25 fx airplane engine on an airboat The boat had a blow over and dunked the engine, I did the standard removal of water from the engine and ran the boat again for about 3 (4oz) tanks so I'm fairly certain that all the water was "ran out".
For storage I removed the fuel from the tank and capped it off. I put the glow ignitor on the engine and tried to start it just to make sure there wasn't and stray fuel in the engine....I then LITERALLY flooded the engine with the ARO (probably 2-3 tablespoons) and rotated the engine over to ensure coating of all the parts. I emptied all the excess ARO and rolled the engine over with the starter to further coat the inside. I stuffed a small ball of cloth into the carb and exhaust holes, capped the fuel intake nipple and the pressure nipple and put it up for the winter.
Come spring, I wanted to run the boat, but the engine would not roll over...even by hand. I took it apart and ALL the steel surfaces were severely rusted. The bearings were almost seized and the crank was lightly pitted.
Now, I believe that all the water was out because of the explanation above, but I don't want to place all blame on the ARO, because I do use it in my RC10-gt and my T-Maxx and never had a problem.
Is it possible for large amounts of water to remain in an engine even after 40 minutes of running and being flooded with ARO?
Is it possible to use too much ARO?
Why not just use engine oil and flood the engine with that instead of ARO?? It protects our real car engines...why not the rc engines?
The reason I'm trying engine oil was the failure of "Blue Block" ARO. The failure happened in an OS. .25 fx airplane engine on an airboat The boat had a blow over and dunked the engine, I did the standard removal of water from the engine and ran the boat again for about 3 (4oz) tanks so I'm fairly certain that all the water was "ran out".
For storage I removed the fuel from the tank and capped it off. I put the glow ignitor on the engine and tried to start it just to make sure there wasn't and stray fuel in the engine....I then LITERALLY flooded the engine with the ARO (probably 2-3 tablespoons) and rotated the engine over to ensure coating of all the parts. I emptied all the excess ARO and rolled the engine over with the starter to further coat the inside. I stuffed a small ball of cloth into the carb and exhaust holes, capped the fuel intake nipple and the pressure nipple and put it up for the winter.
Come spring, I wanted to run the boat, but the engine would not roll over...even by hand. I took it apart and ALL the steel surfaces were severely rusted. The bearings were almost seized and the crank was lightly pitted.
Now, I believe that all the water was out because of the explanation above, but I don't want to place all blame on the ARO, because I do use it in my RC10-gt and my T-Maxx and never had a problem.
Is it possible for large amounts of water to remain in an engine even after 40 minutes of running and being flooded with ARO?
Is it possible to use too much ARO?
Why not just use engine oil and flood the engine with that instead of ARO?? It protects our real car engines...why not the rc engines?
#47
RE: WD-40
ORIGINAL: crispyspa
Nobody has brought up the use of just plain engine oil......good ol' 5w-30.
The reason I'm trying engine oil was the failure of ''Blue Block'' ARO. The failure happened in an OS. .25 fx airplane engine on an airboat The boat had a blow over and dunked the engine, I did the standard removal of water from the engine and ran the boat again for about 3 (4oz) tanks so I'm fairly certain that all the water was ''ran out''.
For storage I removed the fuel from the tank and capped it off. I put the glow ignitor on the engine and tried to start it just to make sure there wasn't and stray fuel in the engine....I then LITERALLY flooded the engine with the ARO (probably 2-3 tablespoons) and rotated the engine over to ensure coating of all the parts. I emptied all the excess ARO and rolled the engine over with the starter to further coat the inside. I stuffed a small ball of cloth into the carb and exhaust holes, capped the fuel intake nipple and the pressure nipple and put it up for the winter.
Come spring, I wanted to run the boat, but the engine would not roll over...even by hand. I took it apart and ALL the steel surfaces were severely rusted. The bearings were almost seized and the crank was lightly pitted.
Now, I believe that all the water was out because of the explanation above, but I don't want to place all blame on the ARO, because I do use it in my RC10-gt and my T-Maxx and never had a problem.
Is it possible for large amounts of water to remain in an engine even after 40 minutes of running and being flooded with ARO?
Is it possible to use too much ARO?
Nobody has brought up the use of just plain engine oil......good ol' 5w-30.
The reason I'm trying engine oil was the failure of ''Blue Block'' ARO. The failure happened in an OS. .25 fx airplane engine on an airboat The boat had a blow over and dunked the engine, I did the standard removal of water from the engine and ran the boat again for about 3 (4oz) tanks so I'm fairly certain that all the water was ''ran out''.
For storage I removed the fuel from the tank and capped it off. I put the glow ignitor on the engine and tried to start it just to make sure there wasn't and stray fuel in the engine....I then LITERALLY flooded the engine with the ARO (probably 2-3 tablespoons) and rotated the engine over to ensure coating of all the parts. I emptied all the excess ARO and rolled the engine over with the starter to further coat the inside. I stuffed a small ball of cloth into the carb and exhaust holes, capped the fuel intake nipple and the pressure nipple and put it up for the winter.
Come spring, I wanted to run the boat, but the engine would not roll over...even by hand. I took it apart and ALL the steel surfaces were severely rusted. The bearings were almost seized and the crank was lightly pitted.
Now, I believe that all the water was out because of the explanation above, but I don't want to place all blame on the ARO, because I do use it in my RC10-gt and my T-Maxx and never had a problem.
Is it possible for large amounts of water to remain in an engine even after 40 minutes of running and being flooded with ARO?
Is it possible to use too much ARO?
dry with a hair dryer.
i think even running the water out still left residual moisture behind.
the ARO acted as a blocker from moisture evap.
running after something like that without proper water removal pretty much sealed the damage.
know it had been submerged and then storage without disassembly and inspection was maybe a bad thing.
#49
RE: WD-40
ORIGINAL: crispyspa
Interesting.
The ARO soaked up the moisture or encased the water?
What about using engine oil?
the ARO acted as a blocker from moisture evap.
The ARO soaked up the moisture or encased the water?
What about using engine oil?
also oils or hydraulic fluind in tighter tolerances can create it's own seal.
i would think this is the case with your engine.
being the bearings are behind the crankshaft, i think the moisture got sealed in.
is after run oil supposed to displace moisture? i know WD-40 does but i don't think ARO does.
displacing moisture and displacing straight water are very different.
for displacing water i would've emptied as much water as possible and then filled it with dry gas and let it sit a while. then empty the drygas and use WD-40 to clean it out and then use ARO to treat it.
of course the best way for a water drowned engine is disassembly.