basherjordan

hey guys.
i just got my first nitro, the RC10GT2.
i had my first runaway tryin to figure out how mich range it has, (not much)
then i was gettin all pissed off because i couldnt figure out how to turn the thing off. i would flip the switch to off, but it would keep running, so i called the guy at my lhs and he said i needed to pinch the fuel line (cant beilive o forgot about that)
also, i have absolutely no idea how to tune the engine. so if anyone has this car, please tell me what i need to adjust in order to tune the engine.
much help would be appreciated

scottywilkes

have u broken the motor in yet? That is the most crucial time of the engine, because if u dont break the engine in, it will have reduced power and reduced engine life.

Read the manual completely 2 times over, as it has everything u need to know about breaking it in and tuning it

basherjordan

ok, i read the manual, but all it is, is just how tyo put it together if you got the kit. there is no info on how to tune the motor.
so i still need some help on that.

SouthFloridaAppraiser

I assume you bought the RTR version. I was in the same boat a few days ago. The instruction manual includes how to build the car and a quick setup guide with a whopping 3 pages on step by step engine starting/Engine Break in and Troubleshooting . This, in my opinion, is not enough. I read tons of posts on this forum and asked questions BEFORE I broke the engine in. There are differing opinions as to how to break in an engine. The manufacturer says one thing, while the knowledgeable racers say another. The following does not mean that this method is correct; just what I did. I followed the GT@ Engine Break-In per recommendation from the manufacturer per the hobby shop salesman (A knowlegable racer to boot)...My thinking...atleast I'll still have the warranty behind me. FYI....he does not use this method personally, but of course they need to CTA. At any rate, I ran the motor at the factory settings on a baseball field with controlled gradual bursts....1/4 throttle max without the body on (This was after the engine ran for a couple of minutes...meaning that I was even more conservative in the beginning. I was very easy on the motor. I checked the engine temp with a temp gun often. I did not do the water/spit test...and in retrospect I think I should have. I am not convinced the cheap temp guns one buys for $25-$40 are accurate. At any rate, I allowed the engine to cool for 8 TO 10 MINUTES between runs per the GT@ Engine Break-In manual. According to the manufacturer the temp should always be between 220-260 degrees. I repeated this process...gradually progressing to 1/3 throttle, 1/2 throttle....as I stated....I was very conservative with the throttle......I always ran the GT2 without the body on....A couple things to note...The idle speed should be set as fast as possible without causing the truck to move. THE FACTORY ALREADY SET THE ENGINE...SO IF YOU HAVE TO MAKE ADJUSTMENTS...MAKE SMALL ONES....I DID ONE HOUR AT A TIME....1/12 OF A TURN....Read the manual...three times and HIGHLIGHT important things to remember. I changed the glow plug after one and a half tanks...the car stalled and I was having difficulty starting it. In retrospect, I think the problem was the cheap igniter...I was having problems starting it.....The glow plug igniter from Associated is crap. I purchased Energized (good) cells..and the battery lost enough power to inhibit the starting of the car. I put in another Energizer..and it worked...but not for long......Your first upgrade should be a getter glow plug igniter. fyi....In order to check the glow plug take it out of the car...I used needle nose pliars with the copper ring in place and placed it in the glow plug igniter...the tiny stick going in first so you can see the small coils...and they will glow orange.....There is a great article somewhere on this forum....How to read a (new) glowplug...As to a good igniter the veterans can recommend a good one here.....I used 20% O'donnell fuel...recommended by the hobbyshop....and it's been around for decades....Follow the directions...........Use the Foam (Air Filter) Oil, After-run, and use your head to...err ears to Listen to the engine....Maybe someone with years of experience can chime in here...but I think a mechanic's ear is useful here...I bet two brand new identical engines will perform slightly different....however, for us novices...this can be a dangerous thought....bottom line....make one adjustment (small) at a time....write it down in a notebook.........napkins don't cut it.......Also be mindful of the color of the smoke...It is blue or white at near full or full throttle? This is also a helpful indicator as to whether your High Speed needle needs adjusting...remember to make gradual changes..and run the motor rich for break in.......My GT is running great...I have about 15 tank fulls in it....I took it to a great off-road track (Mills Pond - Ft. Lauderdale, Fl) for practice....The only casualty....one lost body clip..I ran about 5 tanks that eve....The steering sucks though....I think I definitely need a high speed servo. I will also rebuild the shocks as it was terrible on jumps....

And for knowlegable racers...I just bought the Ofna Humpack 1600 NI-MH. Is this better than using 4 good Alkaline Batteries (Energizer) Will the use of the Ofna pack help the steering a bit. Is there a better hump-pack available for the RC10GT2? Can you recommend a DURABLE servos for steering and Throttle...Money is not an option...

REDisFASTER

My preferred method of break-in: http://www.johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/ma..._break-in.html

basherjordan

southforidaappraiser- thanks for all the info.
did you notice that the car didnt get much range???
for me, it isnt very far at all.

SouthFloridaAppraiser

I don't know how far you mean by "much range", but I have only driven it approx. 125 ft. from me....Check your transmitter and receiver batteries as well....

MrSavage

the range should be quite good....as far as you need....