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Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

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Old 03-02-2009, 05:58 PM
  #326
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

Just wanted 2 know if anyone has heard of a 3 speep for the jato and if so u think it would be worth it. the engine im running has crazy high rps and thinking i may get a little more speed with the right gearing
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:28 PM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

I have not heard of 3 speed but I have heard of folks using Revo gears and getting some good top end with them. If you go to the Traxxas web site and check out the forum there you may be able to find some ingo on that.
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:06 PM
  #328
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

Here is my new Jato 3.3 with a few upgrades


It's a Pro-Line Crowd Pleaser that i had custom painted and I decaled it to look like Dale Jr. #88 Amp car.





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Old 03-02-2009, 09:27 PM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread


Quote:
ORIGINAL: ajk2649

Just wanted 2 know if anyone has heard of a 3 speep for the jato and if so u think it would be worth it. the engine im running has crazy high rps and thinking i may get a little more speed with the right gearing
Never done, and the only engines with much higher rpm than the 3.3. are .12's. If you are running a stock .12, then you can see it will not pull taller gearing very well. Most have less torque and don't come in till around 18K rpm, where as an .18 or .20 like the 3.3 comes in at about 12K rpm. So basically you are working in the wrong direction. The stroke of a .12 is much shorter, so you actually need shorter gearing to allow the engine to rev all the way out. You also need a high stall clutch for better accleration, or you will need about 600ft. to hit top speed.

My Picco JLR.12 is drag modded by Ab mods and one of the stongest out. I have made many high 65-68mph passes trying to get to 74mph record. I could do it in less than 300ft., bu the Jato tranny can't take the stress, so prepare to go through trannies.

These are my two threads that will help you. Both are 5 star on the Traxxas forum. One is my .21TM install(then modded) and the other my JLR.12 install. The threads are long but informative with pics and videos and I explain everything from engine install to modding chassis and custom gearing, etc. Happy reading.

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=404226

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...install+thread
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:45 PM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

Well said and I understand. I was thinking about running revo gears and seeing how that works. What gearing did you run with ur .12 setup and what kind of speeds did u get?
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:46 PM
  #331
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

Also what clutch setup did you go with?
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:49 PM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

And just incase u didnt see my other replys...I am going with the os 12 tz so kinda similar 2 ur picco install so thanks in advance.
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:57 PM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

Actually that 1st thread that NitroRevo posted with the .21 install helped me out alot when I installed the .21TM in my Jato. I had stumbled on it by accident. Thanks alot man it was a great help.
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:22 PM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

Yeah he just sent me the link 2 his jlr .12 install and it was great info. Answering a lot of the questions I had. I was happy 2 see the results he had and hope for a lot of the same with my 12tz. Im running 22/57 gearing I think it is but want 2 try diff things and see what it can do. He said he had the drag mod on his. I got the stage 2 mod and break in from ABmods so that thing should scream. Im still gonna have 2 kinda go easy on it cuz it still has crazy pinch. If I plan on high 60 and try 2 hit the 70mph mark I think I will have 2 shed some weight. Im glad I got rid of the anacondas tho. still waiting on my exhaust manifold b4 I can do anything. I'll keep u guys posted tho.
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Old 03-03-2009, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: quietnas1

Actually that 1st thread that NitroRevo posted with the .21 install helped me out alot when I installed the .21TM in my Jato. I had stumbled on it by accident. Thanks alot man it was a great help.
Thanks for the props quietnas1. I put a lot of work into those builds and testing. Can't beleive I still get 1 or 2 PM's as week on the Traxxas forum after more than 17,000 views.[8D]

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ajk2649
Yeah he just sent me the link 2 his jlr .12 install and it was great info. Answering a lot of the questions I had. I was happy 2 see the results he had and hope for a lot of the same with my 12tz. Im running 22/57 gearing I think it is but want 2 try diff things and see what it can do. He said he had the drag mod on his. I got the stage 2 mod and break in from ABmods so that thing should scream. Im still gonna have 2 kinda go easy on it cuz it still has crazy pinch. If I plan on high 60 and try 2 hit the 70mph mark I think I will have 2 shed some weight. Im glad I got rid of the anacondas tho. still waiting on my exhaust manifold b4 I can do anything. I'll keep u guys posted tho.
ajk2649

The .12TZ is similar in rpm to the JLR.12, but the JLR makes more torque, and the drag even more so and moves some of that power from low end to mid range/top end, especially with the matching 2607 pipe set. You will be happy with the .12TZ once the pinch is gone, it will be faster all around.

The conda's are not bad for high speed runs, but the Jaco foams are little taller, lighter and no ballooning for faster top speed.

Get rid of the stock clutch, and pick up a 3 shoe clutch with the hardest springs you can find. This will allow higher stall for the clutch to engage at much higher rpm giving much better repsonse and snap off the line.

I would keep the 22/58 combo for top speed runs and every day running, but for quickness, don't be afraid to go down to 20 tooth CB. The .12 will spool up so fast and smooth the 3.3 guys will crap their pants.

My engine had less than a quart on it when I ran consistenly 64-68 mph. I could have eventually broke 70, and do it in 200ft less than the modded 3.3 on shorter gearing. The modded .12's will spin easily 10K more than the 3.3. My drag modded JLR.12 has pulled well over 50K on Adam dyno.[X(]
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Old 03-03-2009, 03:18 PM
  #336
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread


Quote:
ORIGINAL: nitrorevo


Quote:
ORIGINAL: quietnas1

Actually that 1st thread that NitroRevo posted with the .21 install helped me out alot when I installed the .21TM in my Jato. I had stumbled on it by accident. Thanks alot man it was a great help.
Thanks for the props quietnas1. I put a lot of work into those builds and testing. Can't beleive I still get 1 or 2 PM's as week on the Traxxas forum after more than 17,000 views.[8D]

Quote:
ajk2649
Yeah he just sent me the link 2 his jlr .12 install and it was great info. Answering a lot of the questions I had. I was happy 2 see the results he had and hope for a lot of the same with my 12tz. Im running 22/57 gearing I think it is but want 2 try diff things and see what it can do. He said he had the drag mod on his. I got the stage 2 mod and break in from ABmods so that thing should scream. Im still gonna have 2 kinda go easy on it cuz it still has crazy pinch. If I plan on high 60 and try 2 hit the 70mph mark I think I will have 2 shed some weight. Im glad I got rid of the anacondas tho. still waiting on my exhaust manifold b4 I can do anything. I'll keep u guys posted tho.
ajk2649

The .12TZ is similar in rpm to the JLR.12, but the JLR makes more torque, and the drag even more so and moves some of that power from low end to mid range/top end, especially with the matching 2607 pipe set. You will be happy with the .12TZ once the pinch is gone, it will be faster all around.

The conda's are not bad for high speed runs, but the Jaco foams are little taller, lighter and no ballooning for faster top speed.

Get rid of the stock clutch, and pick up a 3 shoe clutch with the hardest springs you can find. This will allow higher stall for the clutch to engage at much higher rpm giving much better repsonse and snap off the line.

I would keep the 22/58 combo for top speed runs and every day running, but for quickness, don't be afraid to go down to 20 tooth CB. The .12 will spool up so fast and smooth the 3.3 guys will crap their pants.

My engine had less than a quart on it when I ran consistenly 64-68 mph. I could have eventually broke 70, and do it in 200ft less than the modded 3.3 on shorter gearing. The modded .12's will spin easily 10K more than the 3.3. My drag modded JLR.12 has pulled well over 50K on Adam dyno.[X(]



Well I have a 3 shoe clutch with a 35mm flywheel. That starter box sure is tricky tho but I think I finally got the hang of it. I'll be sure 2 try different gearing and see results. Im just worried about the gear box not being able 2 handle the rpms and stripping some gears. I guess we'll see what happens. I'll be running 20%. you think I should go with 30% with a med plug? I'll be running the os p7 so I think that should be ok.
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Old 03-03-2009, 03:31 PM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

Hey, new to nitro, and just purchased a used Jato 3.3. Was wondering what is the best battery pack to purchase for the reciever/car electronics? Also if you could include web sites or shops to try. Thanks alot
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Old 03-03-2009, 06:58 PM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

Quote:
ORIGINAL: ajk2649

Well I have a 3 shoe clutch with a 35mm flywheel. That starter box sure is tricky tho but I think I finally got the hang of it. I'll be sure 2 try different gearing and see results. Im just worried about the gear box not being able 2 handle the rpms and stripping some gears. I guess we'll see what happens. I'll be running 20%. you think I should go with 30% with a med plug? I'll be running the os p7 so I think that should be ok.
Just make sure you start the wheel going before you bump the flywheel, that will help prolong life of starter motors. Yes, I would run 30% w/med plug. My JLR.12 was shimmed for 30% stock. The gearbox won't handle the rpm well at all. My .12 spent so fast it would toast 1st, 2nd and the diff gear. My thought is the plastic would heat up making the teeth on the gear weaker and strip right off. It got to be a pain as you have to take the whole rear end off to replace.

I like the Jato, but the tranny is a weak link. Even the aluminum or bronze gears don't hold up well. Loosining the slipper helps some, but then you reduce the power to the ground which defeats the purpose of adding a stronger engine. Don't let me discourage you though. I have just done about everything you can imagine with the Jato.

Good luck bro, happy to help any way I can.
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Old 03-03-2009, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: klums1904

Hey, new to nitro, and just purchased a used Jato 3.3. Was wondering what is the best battery pack to purchase for the reciever/car electronics? Also if you could include web sites or shops to try. Thanks alot



Well this is the link for towwer hobbies you can find the reciever battery here. It has a buch of diff ones. when you find one you may want you can try 2 find it on other sites like rc planet or just google search the name of it. Tower hobbies is a great site and they pretty much have every thing you'll ever need but they are not the cheapest by any means.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...CELL+BATTERYS+


Not sure if you have this but you'll need it 2 charge the reciever battery. If you already have it then of course you dont need 2 worry about it.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMAD6&P=M



You may also need the battery for the ez start. It takes a 6 cell 7.2 volt. I have the Duratrax shark 1500. All I can say is dont get that one. It doesnt hold a charge very well But here is the link 2 a bunch of them. Make sure it has the right end on it 2 plug in 2 the ez start. the end looks like this. [Not that u have 2 buy that battery but thats what the plug should look like.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJA83&P=ML


You will then need a charger 2 charge the ez start battery and they are something like this



http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...7+cell+charger



I think that should be about all u need. I know it may be a lot but hey its an expensive hobby but fun as hell. If you have any other questions be sure 2 come here and you can find out anything you need 2 know man. And like I said all the links I have sent you is just 2 show u the things u will need. U dont have 2 get them from tower hobbies. They are a little more expensive on most things. Just google search things and you can find deals all over the place. Try rc planet as well. Have fun bro
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Old 03-03-2009, 07:24 PM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread


Quote:
ORIGINAL: nitrorevo

Quote:
ORIGINAL: ajk2649

Well I have a 3 shoe clutch with a 35mm flywheel. That starter box sure is tricky tho but I think I finally got the hang of it. I'll be sure 2 try different gearing and see results. Im just worried about the gear box not being able 2 handle the rpms and stripping some gears. I guess we'll see what happens. I'll be running 20%. you think I should go with 30% with a med plug? I'll be running the os p7 so I think that should be ok.
Just make sure you start the wheel going before you bump the flywheel, that will help prolong life of starter motors. Yes, I would run 30% w/med plug. My JLR.12 was shimmed for 30% stock. The gearbox won't handle the rpm well at all. My .12 spent so fast it would toast 1st, 2nd and the diff gear. My thought is the plastic would heat up making the teeth on the gear weaker and strip right off. It got to be a pain as you have to take the whole rear end off to replace.

I like the Jato, but the tranny is a weak link. Even the aluminum or bronze gears don't hold up well. Loosining the slipper helps some, but then you reduce the power to the ground which defeats the purpose of adding a stronger engine. Don't let me discourage you though. I have just done about everything you can imagine with the Jato.

Good luck bro, happy to help any way I can.
Yeah I was reading in the book and it says they recommend 2 use 20%. with a med plug. How did u go about adjusting ur shift point? Mine is still set stock from the factory. As far as the shim I do believe it is shimmed but still may only be shimmed for 20%.Im 2 sure about all that.
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Old 03-03-2009, 10:41 PM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

I am very new to Traxxas. I purchased a Jato 3.3 just to see what the hype was about. I followed the break in procedure to a T. After running my 5th tank I was preparing to tune my engine. I did several high speed runs and brought the truck in, as I brought it in, I realized that the truck was running approximately 20MPH without any throttle, I then shut it off. Ever since then, as soon as I start the truck, the wheels start turning at about the same speed. I have to start it off of the ground and take off quickly, when I try to stop the truck it dies. So far from Traxxas advice i have; adjusted the throttle trim to where the servo is not pulling the rod, lowered the idle screw to where the truck won't even run, and tried every high speed low speed needle combination, all of these methods produce the same result. The truck just won't come to a stop. Any advice?
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Old 03-03-2009, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: jaykay108

I am very new to Traxxas. I purchased a Jato 3.3 just to see what the hype was about. I followed the break in procedure to a T. After running my 5th tank I was preparing to tune my engine. I did several high speed runs and brought the truck in, as I brought it in, I realized that the truck was running approximately 20MPH without any throttle, I then shut it off. Ever since then, as soon as I start the truck, the wheels start turning at about the same speed. I have to start it off of the ground and take off quickly, when I try to stop the truck it dies. So far from Traxxas advice i have; adjusted the throttle trim to where the servo is not pulling the rod, lowered the idle screw to where the truck won't even run, and tried every high speed low speed needle combination, all of these methods produce the same result. The truck just won't come to a stop. Any advice?

Im not sure what model you have but when I have tuning trouble I just put it back 2 the factory settings and start all over.
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Old 03-03-2009, 10:52 PM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

Quote:
ORIGINAL: ajk2649
Yeah I was reading in the book and it says they recommend 2 use 20%. with a med plug. How did u go about adjusting ur shift point? Mine is still set stock from the factory. As far as the shim I do believe it is shimmed but still may only be shimmed for 20%.Im 2 sure about all that.
[/quote]

Clockwise for later shift and counter clockwise for earlier shift point. The adjustment screw and hole for the two speed is on top of the tranny. Should be a little sticker there to help with the direction as well.

If you allow that .12 to shift to deep into the power band, you can kiss that tranny goodbye in just a day of bashing or less.

Almost positive the .12TZ is shimmed for 30% out the box. You will want to make sure you are running the proper nitro%. That can be a problem.
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Old 03-03-2009, 10:56 PM
  #344
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

I have model #5509. Going back to factory settings is probably a good idea. I will have to try that. If that doesn't work then I guess something is broke. But I wouldn't think that anything would have broken already?
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Old 03-04-2009, 09:55 AM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

jaykay- That means that your clutch is bad you know inside the bell the spring popped off or something
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Old 03-04-2009, 10:10 AM
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

ajk- you brake-in using 20% and after break-in i switched to 25%, but you should check with who the engine was modded by and ask them what % to use.
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Old 03-04-2009, 11:38 AM
  #347
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: devo208

jaykay- That means that your clutch is bad you know inside the bell the spring popped off or something

That is true that could be it as well. If you have 2 take the gear off ur engine you will prolly run into trouble with your gear mesh when you put it back together. Just try and put it back 2 factory settings 1st and tune again and see if you can get it going that way.
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Old 03-04-2009, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: jaykay108

I am very new to Traxxas. I purchased a Jato 3.3 just to see what the hype was about. I followed the break in procedure to a T. After running my 5th tank I was preparing to tune my engine. I did several high speed runs and brought the truck in, as I brought it in, I realized that the truck was running approximately 20MPH without any throttle, I then shut it off. Ever since then, as soon as I start the truck, the wheels start turning at about the same speed. I have to start it off of the ground and take off quickly, when I try to stop the truck it dies. So far from Traxxas advice i have; adjusted the throttle trim to where the servo is not pulling the rod, lowered the idle screw to where the truck won't even run, and tried every high speed low speed needle combination, all of these methods produce the same result. The truck just won't come to a stop. Any advice?
Have you checked the brakes? The car coming to a stop has little to do with the motor at low RPM. Here are some tricks that worked out for me. Don't mind the dual brakes on mine you don't need them I just like how they looked. But if your interested here is the link. http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=58791. Any questions just post them up bro.
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Old 03-04-2009, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: quietnas1


Quote:
ORIGINAL: jaykay108

I am very new to Traxxas. I purchased a Jato 3.3 just to see what the hype was about. I followed the break in procedure to a T. After running my 5th tank I was preparing to tune my engine. I did several high speed runs and brought the truck in, as I brought it in, I realized that the truck was running approximately 20MPH without any throttle, I then shut it off. Ever since then, as soon as I start the truck, the wheels start turning at about the same speed. I have to start it off of the ground and take off quickly, when I try to stop the truck it dies. So far from Traxxas advice i have; adjusted the throttle trim to where the servo is not pulling the rod, lowered the idle screw to where the truck won't even run, and tried every high speed low speed needle combination, all of these methods produce the same result. The truck just won't come to a stop. Any advice?
Have you checked the brakes? The car coming to a stop has little to do with the motor at low RPM. Here are some tricks that worked out for me. Don't mind the dual brakes on mine you don't need them I just like how they looked. But if your interested here is the link. http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=58791. Any questions just post them up bro.

Hey quietnas.Yeah the jato breaks suck as I have had problems with mine and realized the problem is the POS plastic that just bends when you hit the breaks and they dont really apply any pressure at all 4 breaking. I did the fuel tube mod and it did help a bit but I wanted 2 get the metal break link. Where did u find it bro? Thanks.
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Old 03-04-2009, 01:50 PM
  #350
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Default RE: Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 Thread

I got the aluminum brake arms from my LHS. But they are made by GH RACING. Tower Hobbies has them for $14.79. Here is the link bro. https://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...?&I=LXRCX9&P=M
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