JerB

Me again guys [&:]

well I had my nitro evader out again today and was running great until I ran into a problem. The problem is that my truck wants to move forward when Ideling? I adjusted the trim and the idle screw but thats not curing the problem? I also noticed that even when I have the brake applied its still moving forward slowly? The engine was running and sounding great too[:@] but as my luck would dictate I now have this problem

I also noticed a couple of other things

1) I can move the car back and forth on the ground without resistance? is that normal
2) the brake disc feels loose between the brake plates, could that be linked to the problem that im having
3) after running ( what running that was,lol ) I forgot to put the piston at the bottom of the sleeve, will that be a problem later on

Im trying to keep my head up as Im new to this nitro thing, but after problems like this im kinda getting a little discouraged. But I guess im still learning and Im sure all you guys ran into probs when you were newbies

Thanks for any help

Jeremy

NitroNate

Take the clutch bell off and check the clutch shoes.Your brakes may also have to be tightend , but make sure that ,after tightening your brakes,you have no resistance while pushing the truck back-n-forth.-This is known as Brake Drag.

avg_joe

1. You should be able to roll the car forward and backward with very little resistance(engine off). It should still move fairly easily backward with the engine running, properly idling/proper clutch function.(you should be able to roll backwards down the face of a jump if you stop on it, and let go of the brakes)
2. The brake caliper will seem loose and sort of floppy when not on the brake, but should tighten up when the brakes are applied. You should be able to adjust the linkage by tightening the brake adjustment nut, or repositioning the collar(not sure how the evader is set up)
3. Setting the piston out of the pinch zone is a good idea...Just like using after run oil...Just like making sure you don't leave the truck on the tires to avoid flat spots...Just like not leaving the suspension compressed...
None of these thing will wreck your truck, but everything helps in it's own little way.

JerB

Thanks for the help guys, I will give those tips a try and get back to you[)]

nitrofan12

sounds like your clutch

youwish16

had this problem the other day. my bearings in the clutchbell seized causing the clutchbell to stay engaged. check your bearings. take your motor out and try and spin the clutchbell, it should spin freely

125cchyperman

Yes that could cause this to happen, but an easier way to see if this is the problem would be to just spin the flywheel while the teeth are not meshed with the spur gear. If it spins freeley then your fine, if there is resistance and a grity grindy feeling then you have a problem. Avg_joe just about said it all. But to add to it

Your throttle trim adjustment may be so that your at throttle when your idling. So check your trim adjustment also........ But yes your car should be able to roll back and forth easily without much is any resistance 2. You can tighten up your linkages a little, but as long as your brakes are good while driving then I wouldnt even worry about it now. 3. But it's good practice to put the piston at BDC but it wont hurt you in any real way right now. As long as the PIston wasnt at TDC then your fine, just try nd put it at BDC if you can remember....


Hope this helped

JerB

me again guys

I got my truck out again and tried the trims but to no luck, so I think its a clutch problem there seems to be a noise coming from the clutch bell. Im still a newbie to all this but what in the clutch would be causing this problem, worn clutch shoes I assume?

Hope to hear back

Jeremy

PS- what is involved in taking off the clutch bell?

muti369

or berings

SAVAGEBANE

to take off the clutch bell, the engine must be off the car. there is a screw at the very front that is holding it on really tight. once that is off, the clutch bell (cb) will slide right off.

SAVAGEBANE

question for others!
I am having the same problem with my friends hpi MT2. when the clutch bell is off I see that the clutch is binding to the shaft. when the engine starts, the clutch is engaged and the clutch bell is spinning no matter how low the rpm is.

I have to get a new clutch bell because on the 12t that i have, the bell part is separated from the gear teeth. I don't know if something else is supposed to be there because i have never taken apart a clutch before. When the motor starts the clutch is engaged and the bell is bouncing around on the clutch. Is there a part that holds the clutch to the clutch bell?

JerB

Hi Guys

well I finally got around to removing the engine, first time I have ever done that. Anyway I wante to know how to remove the clutchbell ? I got the eclip off and was wondering how to get the bell off?

Thanks guys

Jeremy

JerB

also forgot to add that the clutchbell spins freely, would dirt or grid on the brakes cause this problem?

Jeremy

Chris_RC

Try and use a small tuning screwdriver and pry the clutch bell off. If it spins freely, it isnt your problem. is your idle reallly really low, because that is what it should be. Take the car off the ground when running and see how fast the tires is spinning. In my opinion, the tires shouldnt even move when off the ground. Is your linkage setup correctly?

JerB

Thanks ChrisRC,

Yeah I was wondering if the linkage setup is right, how would I go about correcting it if the linkage is out?

Thanks

Jeremy

Chris_RC

At neutral, the car should roll freely, but be at idle. You do this by pushing the throttle linkage as small as possible with your finger, then put the servo horn and everything else on. With it correctly adjusted, there should be a 1-2mm gap between the servo horn and throttle linkage. Look on your manual for moer details.