twohammersoffun

so to put the reverce int to the trenny the whole guts would have to be changed out to the revo gears? its not possable to just put the reverce gear into it?

f0rmula_2001

Its really not that difficult, you just have to change the output gears. Which should come with the reverse kit. Buytraxxas has the kit, but you could find it on ebay too im sure.

twohammersoffun

ya ok well maybe i will give it a try. i just put a dynomite platnum pipe on and some revo 17 mm wheel adapters with 1/8 buggy wheels and it is crazy fast now. not sure how fast it gosewill gps it tomorrow. i also put green springs in the back and orange in the frount with the sway bars it is ausoem gunna put 50 weight oil in the frount diff . or shoutd it go in both? is 60 a good oilwith the 1.3 pistns for the shocks i think it should be good?

twohammersoffun

what would the gearing change do is it a big loss or not much and do u have to get the safty box thing or just make sure u are stopped

slayer76

WANT TO ORDER A NEW 3.3 FOR MY SLAYER THROUGH TOWER HOBBY BUT NOT SURE WICH TO PURCHASE.STILL NEW TO THE HOBBY.CAN SOMEBODY EXPLAIN TO ME THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TRX IPS SHAFT W/RECOIL AND THE TRX MULTI SHAFT W/RECOIL.WICH ONE DO I NEED TO ORDER FOR THE SLAYER.THANKS

Superdave9206

Hay Carguy,

have you ever tried the RPM Revolver 3.2 StableMaxx wheels. They say on e-bay that they add 30mm of track to a truck. The picture you posted of your slayer with the standard offset wheels really interested me. I am shopping for the wheels and tires but I came across the stablemaxx one and wanted to know what you thought.

Dave

f0rmula_2001

Mackoselek,
It is a pretty big difference in gearing if you keep the stock CB/Spur combo. It will rev out really quick. I think you need the optidrive for the reverse kit too.


You want to get the IPS Shaft with recoil. The Multishaft has a short threaded snout that takes other types of shafts. I would ebay one from a parted out truck. you can get it for like 100 or less if you watch for a coulple days.

twohammersoffun

those 0s 21 are an ausoem engin for the revo it should crossover nicely.

slayer76

mackoselek-will the os 21 drop right in with no probs

CarGuy7a

I don't think the Stablemaxx's would fit under the body. The standard offsets barely fit under the body, anything wider offset in that wheel I doubt would work unless you put a Revo body on it.

twohammersoffun

ya as far as in know  the os 21 will fit right in and the ez start fits right up and away you go

Superdave9206

Good to know thanks

dave

twohammersoffun

i know you should bur the same fulr all the time but when you  runn out and use some of your buddies fule withch is different it took me a little bit to have it run right it that a tipical this to happen is that why u should stick with the same fule?

twohammersoffun

just a question about changing shock oil after its back together without the spring on and you compress it should it exend back out on its own or dose it matter if it dose or dosent or gose a litthe way? they are the right lenth and seem to work perfictly so i was just wonedering

CarGuy7a

To answer your question. Without the spring, No the shaft will not return to fully extended. If you read this ^^ you'll see why.

MCSRacing

My Feedback: (2)

the big block conversion requires a bump box .. there isn't room for the spin/pull start, it will hit the upper a-arm

f0rmula_2001

I finally got my first slayer all rebuilt. Pretty much new everything. I spent about $250 on new parts. Carguy I got the FLM CVDs and they seem to be pretty nice. I did have 2 issues with them. The shoulder between the bearings was to long and it would push the outer bearing out like an 1/8 inch. I called FLM and they are sending me another set! For the time being i just put them on the lathe and turn a little off to make these ones work. The other issue was that I had to shim the drive cups out like 1.2mm to get the hole lined up right and so they wouldnt come out of the cup at full droop. Part of that was because i rum my pillow balls about 4 turns out from no threads showing. Did anyone else have any of these issues?

I also switched to a bump start. I am really happy with that so far. I got a great deal on a OFNA T-Start, $30 off ebay because someone had it labeled wrong.

I built an 1/8 scale CD for it too. It has held up so far but I havent had much time to tune it or put it through to much stress through it. I am very happy to never have to clean up 500k anymore.
I just gotta wait for the snow to go away in like 2 months and race season starts. Now I gotta start on slayer #2

I will post some pics when i get my camera back tomorrow.

manuel frias

i have broken multiple arms on the trx slayer are there any upgrades? i am tired of buying stock arms and breaking them 5 tanks later is there a salution for this i am considering going to aluminum arms. rpm does not curently have parts for this car. Has any body else had this problem.

MCSRacing

My Feedback: (2)

don't crash so much ....

f0rmula_2001

here are a few pics of the CVDs and the whole truck. On the second one of the CVD you can see how close it is to coming out at full droop. I think I understand why those other guys might have had problems with them. With some shimming they work nice. I will get some pictures of the center diff when i take it apart next time. i have 50k in it right now and that definetly is thick. I think like 20k might work better.

CarGuy7a

Yeah from your pics, mine are close too but not that close to falling out. Really the only thing I can suggest is run your pillow balls in more, unless you have them set for a specific width. I usually run my pillow balls in snug (not tight, just to where they won't turn anymore) and then adjust my camber.

In the Traxxas manual I think it says not to run the pillow balls with them showing more than a couple of threads.

f0rmula_2001

I am pretty happy with were they are at now. They shouldnt come out. I was talking with the one of the engineers and the guy who does the driving for all the videos from traxxas this summer and he said that their racers run their pillow balls out up to 5 turns out. I think that the extra track width makes some improvement in the handling.

manuel frias

has any one ported there traxxas 3.3? i read some good articles about it and gave it a try. mainly did every thing that they said in this article except the modification on the piston and putting some epoxy in the crank to smooth out an edge. http://www.e-maxximumrc.com/html/nitro_motor_mod.html. i havent rely test drove it yet but i did put it back together last night and fired it up it seems to have already improved the engine tho the engine fired right up and just held a smooth idle for about 1 minute till i turned it off i will drive it today and tell you guys how it went.

f0rmula_2001

I did a couple 3.3s myself and had a couple done by professionals. It does really wake up that motor. You got to be pretty careful with the sleeve, make sure you dont cut to deep or heat it up to much and warp it. I wish i still had some of the professional ones I could show you what they did to the crank. Mostly they cupped the leading edge of the crank and put a scallop in the middle of the counter weight. They also smoothed the intake some, 3.3s have a pretty rough opening for the intake.

f0rmula_2001

Carguy... there is a guy on the traxxas forum that asked about revo gearing. I use revo gearing in mine and i run 20/34 gearing for CB/spur gear. That gets me to about 40mph with the close ratio gears. I could possibly go 21 or 22 for fitment if anyone makes it for the CB. With the gearing for that it is about the same as 15/40 with the stock output gears with close ratio. I made a nice chart for the conversions but I can seem to locate it right now, but off the top of my head,20/36 with the wide ratio should be like 42mph or around there.