retrosoul

how about the losi xxx-nt mip cvds? will that fit?

Kowitz

Hi all.

Well, I just got back into RC,I was pretty into the RC scene from about 7th grade to 9th. I had a Monster Truck(Smartech Magic Wheel, knock-off t-maxx) I didn't have enough money to keep my love for the hobby going, but now I do actually have the time and money.

I just finished my 1st semester of College, and I am getting back into RC. I traded some stuff I had sitting around for "3" RC10's. Here is what I got(from the seller's ad):

#1-RC10gt, (FTGT), on a VERY RARE "CARBON FIBER" chassis. It was a 4 or 5 off chassis, dont think you can even find another CF chassis out there. Also has CF shock towers. Titanium turnbuckles all arround. Light and strong. Car also has Billet Aluminum hubs front and rear, aluminum bumper,, trick 'bleeder' shock caps, MG steering servo, and an OFNA force .15 with boost bottle and a port-matched manifold. FM radio gear. Tons of spare parts, tires, and other features. Have the factory team aluminum chassis for it too.

#2-An entire RC10gt in parts. Everything is there, u just have to go through and re-assemble everything and re lube the diff and you have a whole complete car. I have an instruction manual for these cars, they are super easy to work on. I have a Ron Paris 'dish' ROAR legal .12 race motor that was sent to a guy that builds the RC motors for the Mugen race team for mods. I have $200 into just the motor and it hasnt been run. It has a sweet matching red/blue theme with the motor and exhaust(which are also port-matched).

#3-This is a RC10gt "Dual Sport" Set up on the gen 1 RC10gt chassis. It uses the same RC10gt "stealth" gearbox, but has shortened A-arms and CV's. Again, titanium turnbuckles all the way arround. I was building this car to race the asphalt oval 2wd class in AZ, but moved before I ever got it finnished. Your gain, its an awesome little car and will do 60+ with only one gear ratio, no 2 speed! The motor for this car is a Picco .12 SPD, it was also sent to Dennis Richey of team Mugen for the "Outlaw Moddified" treatment. Meaning he did everything you can do to make this motor as fast as possible. We're talking 40,000RPM! I was told it needs the right Picco/NovaRossi tuned pipe to really use the power, I dont know because I never got arround to getting the pipe and running it. I have over $200 into just this motor too.


I ran car #1 today, and it ran great. For car #2 I need a few more pieces(Control arms, servos, small pieces) and for car #3 all I need is some servos, and the Novarossi/Picco pipe the seller said would be best.

I am just looking for some opinions on what I got, especially car #3, is anyone running a setup similar to this? It seems like it will be really fun, I would just like to find a body that fits it well. I also have the original DS chassis for car #3, do you think it would be a better idea to swap everything back to that chassis for the road car, or keep the GT tub chassis for my road car?

MCSRacing

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killer find kowitz ... the NDS is really rare

Kowitz

Thanks!

Kowitz

About a week ago I was playing with my RC10gt and I hit a jump bad, and it broke an RPM rear control arm mount. I was pretty shocked this broke before the rear control arm itself(since my rear arms are stock). And I had a stock mount laying around, so I fixed it.

Well 2 days ago, I hit another bad jump, and I broke the other side mount, again it was an RPM mount.

I thought RPM stuff was supposed to be strong?? Haha I'm kidding, but is this just a rare thing??

quietnas1

It rare. I have never broken any RPM parts. Give them a call see what they say.

MCSRacing

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RPM stuff carries a lifetime warranty ... send em the part and they'll replace em

PigBoat_2

Alright, I read 39 straight pages over 5 hours. I'm done

I came up with a nice batch of questions while staring at my broken GT...

Wondering, the thing I attach my throttle arm to on the carb has broken off. I can't seem to find a replacement or upgrade, and I don't know if there is a good way to repair it. Help?

Also, for mostly pavement driving with some yard bash driving, what kind of shock weight and spring stiffness would be recommended?

Does the RPM receiver box fit the GT, because I've heard that it doesn't but I've heard that it does. TRUTH.

Is the transmission brace that bolts to the rear bulkhead THAT important, because it's seriously like a quarter inch thick...

Finally, is there a good clutch upgrade out there? MIP 4 n 1 still available somewhere? Link?

edit...while I'm thinking about it, what is a good clutchbell/spur size setup for good acceleration but more for top speed?

Kowitz

It wasn't an extreme jump either.  Just a little plastic bike jump from walmart/target.

MCSRacing

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this is a build ive been workin on for a bit .. finally finished,

blars85

Ihave an rc10gt with a os cv-r .15 and im having a few problems, im new to this. My motor is pretty hard to start and wont idle...along with that it doesnt have any bottom end power. Once i get it warmed up it runs ok but wont idle. Forgive me for being stupid but turning the needle to the right does that make it leaner or more rich? I know on my go carts and stuff if you turn the needle vave to the right it makes it more rich. I know i need to lean out the bottom top and bottom end should i use like very small turns or should i turn it like 1/4 at a time? one more thing..i bought a cvd rebuild kit because the left one kept flying off..what would cause the axle pins to fly out? i put the new one on there and it still flies off...do i need a new axle?

MCSRacing

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try setting the motor at stock settings ... 2 turns out on the HSN" the one right by the fuel line" ... and flush on the LSN "on the end of the barrel by the throttle linkage" ... clockwise = lean ..... counter clockwise = richer ..... set the idle at about 1.5mm and it should be pretty close to idling decent

PigBoat_2

I'm in the middle of upgrading to the OS .18, and I could really use some help for a couple things. Bear with me as although I know an alright amount about this hobby, I don't know all the terminology.

First, I need to get the flywheel off the shaft. It has two pins for the clutch shoes to slide onto and a nut between them that is impossible to reach with the pins in the way. Wondering, do I take the nut off to get the flywheel off?

Second will come putting said flywheel/clutch onto the new OS shaft, which is threaded and doesn't have a place for the e-clip at the end. Does this make a difference?

Third, I am putting a new transmission cover on because cold weather broke the brace mount off of my current one. I'm not very sure how to get the area with the brake disc apart. Help would be appreciated here as well.

If pictures are needed for specifics, I can definitely provide a few, but I know that the .18 upgrade is common and I'm sure many of you know exactly what I'm talking about.

btw it's the cv-rx if it matters.

edit...getting one of the bearings out of the old transmission cover is a huge pain. any suggestions, tools, tips...

yakfish

My Feedback: (27)

1) You can use your glow plug wrench to get the clutch nut off the shaft.

2) you just use a screw and a washer to hold everything on the shaft.

3) not exactly sure what you are reffering to, pics may be useful.

robertpage

My Feedback: (10)

sorry to go of topic but some of you RC10GT guys out there might be interested in converting it to a SC10GT just check out mine in my gallery I sell the conversion parts for $50.00

yakfish

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it looks like the wheel front bumper and body are the only difference to the original truck. What parts did you change? are those buggy wheels? with 17mm adaptors?

robertpage

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you have to change the chassis because the sc10 is about 1.25" longer then the RC10gt and also change the angle of the front a-arms so the tires tuck in the body properly and also add the front aluminium body mount to suport the SC10 body. As far as wheels go the ones in the pics are stock SC10 but aka racing does make the 17mm conversion for like $30.00 thats for the sc10 but will bolt right on to the stock rc10gt .190 drive cups or cvd's and yes the bumper is also changed. so in my ad you get the chassis $30.00, front aluminium body mount $10.00, and front bumper $10.00 but you still need to add the hpi stright body posts,wheels and tires of your choice and SC body of your choice. but I think this is a good way to keep the 1/10 scale nitro truck still alive and hope to soon have it for the RC10GT-2 the pics in my gallery show everything listed but can send more upon request

Tubeheadz

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My OS .12 is blowing fuel out through cylinder head is there a gasket kit or will the blue liquid gasket sold at autozone work?

Tubeheadz

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I forgot to subscribe to the thread.

ThunderbirdJunkie

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No, gasket maker won't work. You probably got the head cocked at an angle when you reinstalled it. Make sure it's seated all the way, and tighten the screws in a cross ( X )pattern.

Tubeheadz

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I have never taken the head off is there a copper seal or gasket that is replacable and where can I find them? Also do you know if they make a rebuild kit for these OS .12 CV still?

ginnz

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Hi guys!

a total car noob here!!! anyways, i thought id share some pics of my first car. im a heli guy at heart, for 4+ years, got 11 of them, and prolly 20+K into the hobby.....

last week or so, i put a used Dx6i up for sale in the forums as i have 2- Dx7's, and just didnt need it, i was asking 90.00 for it, so some dude comes along and offers me a used RC10GT, with 2 glow drivers,spare tires and 27 mgz radio, he says charge the batts, fuel it up and go! just that the motor needed a bit of a break in s it had only a 1/2 gallon through it, and its a OS .18 CVR.....

anyways, as i was trying to get my son into the heli's, he's still a bit young for 'em, just turned 7, and he see's the car pics on the PC and says "DAD, you gotta get it...." well, im all electric guy, so i was a bit hesitant.... but finally accepted.... well, man, what a hoot! i love this thing! i cant believe i never looked into cars before! it runs GREAT, and is in decent condition....the guy was true to his word, it was RTR.

so... already ive ordered a new radio, an ACOM 2.4 ghz radio/RX, and a WACK of aftermarket CNC blue anodized parts for it..... heres a list of what i ordered so far!

Team Associated RC10GT Aluminum Extended Rear Tranny Brace Blue Team Associated RC10GT Aluminum Front Arm Set Blue
Team Associated RC10GT Aluminum Front Bumper Blue
Team Associated RC10GT Aluminum Front Hinge Pin Brace Blue Team Associated RC10GT Aluminum Front Shock Stay Blue Miscellaneous ALL Aluminum Oil-Filled Threaded Shocks 1 Pair 90mm Blue
Team Associated RC10GT Aluminum Rear Arm Set Blue
Team Associated RC10GT Aluminum Rear Body Mount Set
Team Associated RC10GT Aluminum Rear Bulk Head Blue
Team Associated RC10GT Aluminum Rear Gear Box Set Blue
Team Associated RC10GT Aluminum Rear Shock Stay Blue
New Clutch Kit
New Blue tie rods/ends
New Blue Rear Hubs
New Chrome rear wheels

so, i just need new front hubs and a few other parts, and a full bearing set, and this thing will be almost all new! its for my boy, and he'll have a blinged out stadium truck thats for sure!

so, now im looking for something for myself to race against him for fun.... im thinking a buggy type, nitro as well, and all wheel drive! the car bug has bit!!!!

heres some pics of what she looks like now, and in a couple weeks ill post pics of it re-built! ;-)

hope you like! and i cant believe i got this all for a used Dx6i !!!! :-) ($90.00)!!!!

AND- can anyone recommend me a good buggy/truggy thats 4x4 and approx the same size as this one!? :-)

Ginnz.

Raguvian

Nice!

I'm getting my GT on Friday through a trade... already got fuel, after run oil and air filter oil and a fuel bottle waiting for it. Can't wait to get it!

hybridstone

Nice truck ginnz

The engine in your truck is a os .12cvrx Bling is ok for looks but alloy parts like a-arms,bulkheads are not a good idea as the don't allow flex and cause alot more damage on a bad landing or crash. I would replace that plastic pipe with the AE smoothie you'll notice a big improvement. I own 3 Gt's i bought my first one in 94 and its still my fave to run. Your kid is gonna have a blast.

ThunderbirdJunkie

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ThunderbirdJunkie was wondering how there was a .12CV-R head on an 18 CV-R