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  1. #2651

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    the dude who sold it to me said it was an .18cvr, so i took his word for it..... ive got 12 heli's, thin is there all electric. ;-) this is the only thing nitro i have in the hobby room, so i dont know squat about this nitro stuff. i guess i learned a couple things today, one is, don't always take the other guys word as... well, word. and, the RC10GT i have here has an OS .12CVR in it! ;-) and i should have learned the first part 40+ years ago! ;-)

    anyways, now im looking for another buggy to get so i can race against my kid. if i find, say, a RC10GT2, will most of the parts be compatible between them?

    if not, ill look for another RC10GT! i wanna get the same thing so we can swap parts between us, keep costs down, as i'll get a pile of parts so if/when we need them, we can just bolt them on.... ill prolly get a spare clutch,spur gear, and a tranny and motor or two as extra's, just for backups, and all the parts that are comming of the car from the aluminums that are going on, can be spares as well.....

    thanks for all the advice/help, guys.

    ginnz.


  2. #2652
    MCSRacing's Avatar
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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    well finally got the body finished out .. so here are a few pix of the finished truck
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    RC8B-e FT, RC8TeFTC.E.,B-44FT, RC10T4FT, SC10FT
    AE |Tekin | Thunderpower | AKA | Lundsford

  3. #2653
    yakfish's Avatar
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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread


    ORIGINAL: ginnz

    the dude who sold it to me said it was an .18cvr, so i took his word for it..... ive got 12 heli's, thin is there all electric. ;-) this is the only thing nitro i have in the hobby room, so i dont know squat about this nitro stuff. i guess i learned a couple things today, one is, don't always take the other guys word as... well, word. and, the RC10GT i have here has an OS .12CVR in it! ;-) and i should have learned the first part 40+ years ago! ;-)

    anyways, now im looking for another buggy to get so i can race against my kid. if i find, say, a RC10GT2, will most of the parts be compatible between them?

    if not, ill look for another RC10GT! i wanna get the same thing so we can swap parts between us, keep costs down, as i'll get a pile of parts so if/when we need them, we can just bolt them on.... ill prolly get a spare clutch,spur gear, and a tranny and motor or two as extra's, just for backups, and all the parts that are comming of the car from the aluminums that are going on, can be spares as well.....

    thanks for all the advice/help, guys.

    ginnz.

    The RC10GT and GT2 are 2 different trucks very few (if any) part are interchangable between them.

  4. #2654

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    thanks!

    well, it looks like ill be looking for another RC10GT then!

  5. #2655

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    well guys,

    heres a bit of an update on my RC10GT..... up a couple of posts is the car when i got it..... sonce then, ive put about 5 tanks through it, and i must say its a complete BLAST!!!!! being a heli guy for years, i find its a really relaxing kinda fun, compared to flying heli's, i can just let er all hang out, and the repercussions of making an error aint NOTHING compared to flying my Trex 600E, or Phazor 600, or the Scale birds..... thats for sure!

    anyways, i put some bling on it today, and its almost done.... and last weekend i picked up another buggy, this kod in town sold me a Onfa LX Comp for 100.00!!! its got everything with it, RTR..... but i replaced the factory radio with a Acoms Technisport 2.4G, and the steering servo with a JR NES4721, and the throttle servo with a JR Z590N. the steering servo (NES4721) has a whopping 119.6 OZ/in torque. it works FAR better then the crap stock servo...... ill be ordering up some aluminum parts for it next week ( upper/lower A-Arms, and some other bits ;-))

    all i need for the RC 10 GT is new wheels and tires, but last week, i won another complete car with 2 motors, and a big box of parts, and about 10 sets of tires/rims on flra-bay for 78.00, so ill see what i all get in that bin of stuff before i go and order wheels..... ill prolly rebuild that one so me and my son can race two of the same cars against each other!

    well, here are some pics of it, almost done.

    hope you like!

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  6. #2656

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    Awwww heck, here are some pics of the Ofna Ultra Comp the kid sold me also..... i havnt run this one yet, its been, like -20+C here for the last while.... ill wait till it warms up a bit then try it out.

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  7. #2657
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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    http://cgi.ebay.com/TEAM-ASSOCIATED-...88159185611488

    I was just looking at some stuff on ebay and came upon this. it looks pretty sweet for a GT. I don't think I have ever seen one set up like this before.

  8. #2658
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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    yea thats a neat lookin truck .. mebe a gpm chassis?
    RC8B-e FT, RC8TeFTC.E.,B-44FT, RC10T4FT, SC10FT
    AE |Tekin | Thunderpower | AKA | Lundsford

  9. #2659

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    My project gt with custom rear cage n' front bushbar, Its got a ported n' polished lrp .18pro spec with mip stinger. I'm waitin for my j82 fronts n' hpi paddles to arrive.. I'll post some finished pics asap


    Go hard or go home!

  10. #2660

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    i gotta question... i got an older rc10 off craigslist the other day for pretty cheap.  it came with i guess the original engine which required a started box.  i didn't like that so i got a new os max 15 with a pull start.  im trying to install the engine, and i've read something about cutting the bolt the flywheel and clutch go on so it all fits.  is that true?  i'm going to go back to the shop tomorrow at and ask them, but i'd rather know a littl ebit more about it before i go so im asking you guys.  i looked at the old engine, and it appears to be cut too.  how do i measure how much to cut? 

  11. #2661
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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    you shouldn't need to cut off more than a 1/4 inch. I had to cut the shaft of of a OS18TZ for a rc10gt that i had. I just used a cutting wheel on my dremel. just be sure not to take off too much.

    hybridstone: where did you find the bug body for your gt? I have looked all over the place trying to find one with no luck. I bought a proline crawler body hooping it would work but it was just a bit on the short side. yours look great!!!

  12. #2662

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    when i put the flywheel on, should i cut enough length off so i can screw on the clutch nut to secure the flywheel?  then put on the clutch bell.

  13. #2663
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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread


    ORIGINAL: yakfish

    you shouldn't need to cut off more than a 1/4 inch. I had to cut the shaft of of a OS18TZ for a rc10gt that i had. I just used a cutting wheel on my dremel. just be sure not to take off too much.

    hybridstone: where did you find the bug body for your gt? I have looked all over the place trying to find one with no luck. I bought a proline crawler body hooping it would work but it was just a bit on the short side. yours look great!!!
    HPI had one for the nitro RS4 MT2 for quite a while
    \"Some people can mess up an anvil with a rubber hammer\" -46u
    If you don\'\'t allow yourself to fail, you\'\'ll never allow yourself to succeed-ThunderbirdJunkie

  14. #2664

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    Go hard or go home!

  15. #2665
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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread


    COOL!! So that one fits the GT? I saw that one for sale and assumed it would have been too big.
    Thanks

  16. #2666

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    i am trying to put an os 15 in my rc10 and i am having trouble.  i got the bolt cut and everything fits and lines up with the gear, however when i try to start it, the flywheel spins, but it doesn't spin the clutch bell.  any suggestions??  i have the fly wheel, clutch shoes, clutch bell and the locking washer.  am i missing something? 

  17. #2667
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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    from the engine out it should be: washer, bevel collet, flywheel, flywheel nut and so on

    sounds like ya either forgot the collet or the collet is bad
    RC8B-e FT, RC8TeFTC.E.,B-44FT, RC10T4FT, SC10FT
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  18. #2668

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    i guess the collet is bad because i have all that. it spun when i tested it before installed it.  i guess the other gear stops it since they are touching.

  19. #2669

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    i was having some engine install troubles, but i got them solved.  it starts and runs now.  however, i had to install a new trottle and break assembly.  for the most part, i have the throttle set up right, i just dont have the correct setting for the carbs idle position.  i know i have to adjust the length because at full throttle it doesn't fully open.  when i hit the break it dies.  i downloaded the manual for the rc10, and its helped alot.  but i'd like to see some pictures of people set ups so i can get a real idea of the what the proper set up should look like.

  20. #2670
    yakfish's Avatar
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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    here is how your linkage should look. you also need to have about a 1mm gap in the carb for your idle setting. what engine are you using?

  21. #2671

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    i have my break linkage bent over the throttle (like it is in the manual).  does it work better like you have it??  as far as my carb, i have it very slightly open at idle.  i guess its when i hit the break is when it dies.  my next question is should the break arm (the bar the linkage slide though) be loose enough tl pull up?  its almost like then i hit the break, that break arm move up out of its position.

  22. #2672

    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    I have been out of the RC car scene for probably 15 years and suddenly decided to get back in.

    Previously I ran a rc10st (sport truck, black tub) and attempted to run a rc10gt (black tub) without much luck - pull start never seemed to work for me.

    Found a rc10gt factory team on ebay with a radio and starter box so I took the plunge. Fairly stock from the previous owner: upgraded O'Donnel head on a OS .12 CV (the upgraded head requires mc-8 or mc-59 glow plugs?), custom spring spacers on front and rear, awesome pink switch cover mounted on the rear shock tower.
    The gas tank had 1 screw broken off flush with the plastic so I have a tank, screws and o-rings on order.

    Can anyone identify the six sided post sticking up between the steering servo and the receiver? It has a black screw-on top but is not holding anything down or connected to anything... possibly it's providing something for the servo to push against if it was flexing?

    Near term I am going to get new tires/rims, replace the air filter with something else (suggestions?), new body, rebuild the trans an diff once I get the appropriate associated greases, probably rebuild the shocks as well.

    What upgrades (if any) would you recommend?

    Oh yeah, the starter box had been "rewired", my favorite part was banana plug glow plug wires that had been connected to exposed solder joints with black tape, and the wires that went to the female banana plugs had been un-ceremoniously cut... spent last night rewiring that! before and after camera picks are included!
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  23. #2673

    RE: Official RC10GT Thread



  24. #2674

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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    yakfish, can you give me the approximate measurements of your break linkage... the places you made the bends.  i might try that.

  25. #2675
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    RE: Official RC10GT Thread

    Johnny, that post is an antenna mount. Holds the antenna a lot better than the one on the RX holder.
    \"Some people can mess up an anvil with a rubber hammer\" -46u
    If you don\'\'t allow yourself to fail, you\'\'ll never allow yourself to succeed-ThunderbirdJunkie


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