hanney

My Feedback: (1)

joe,

ive been going to xtreme they have nice people and alot of parts, the long island raceway is inside. can you run nitro in it?


colin-

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

Only in the summer when they can open all the doors and windows to air it out. Unfortunately the track is only for 1/10th cars and trucks, no 1/8th aloud. Last time I spoke to one of the employees they informed me the shop just purchased land and were working on getting permits to build a 1/8th track not far from the shop. That’s all I know for now. I did found a hobby shop out east that is currently building a 1/8th outdoor track off site. The name of the shop is "Action Hobbies". Not sure if they have a website.

hanney

My Feedback: (1)

joe.
thanks for the info hopefully when summer comes around i can get out to the track. i think im still gonna go for the drifter due to all the not used parts i have. and just keep a set for racing.

colin-

buddha560

alright so i just bought a rc10gt for 150 bucks and its in good running cond. everything works and everything is stock..2 gallons of fuel were runs through it already..did i get ripped off or no..and what are some good hop up items to get for your basic backyard driver?
-buddha

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

That seems to be the going price for them. Is it the RTR, Kit (Team Version), or the Factory Team Kit version of the truck? If it is the Factory Team version then you did well. The way you can tell what version you got is......

· The Factory Team Kit will have a lot of blue parts such as the front spindles, servo saver, exhaust pipe and light tan shocks
· The Team version will have light tan shocks
· And the RTR version will have Blue shocks

Also did you purchase it as RTR or did you need to add your own radio and engine?

I just purchased a used Savage a few weeks back and been spending all my time with it lately ignoring my other trucks, so I decided to take out my RC10GT yesterday for a half a tank of fuel because the Savage if in pieces at the moment.

“MAN I FORGOT HOW ASSUME THE GT IS�

I love the RC10GT there is no replacement for it.

dude7422

any one ever do a brake mod other then a servo swap i tried a longer lever but did not hold

danimal1965

One sweet brake Mod. http://www.baysidehobby.com/cr_brake.htm[8D]

duckedup

Hey all.... I just picked up a RC10GT in trade, 1st time owner for this truck.....

Just curious, is there a GT2 upgrade kit or news of one coming out? (did a quick search and turned up nothing) or is it even worth it ?.... The one I just got already has a few upgrades.. Here's what it came with......

-OS CV.12 non pull start motor - (I've been told this motor is a turd, so I busted out the Dremel before I even ran it, still a work in progress ) - Yes, I'm modding the nickel sleeve but I figured why not, I already have it... and, I already ordered the ABC piston/sleeve...
-CVEC chrome tuned pipe
-RPM Blue front and rear control arms
-RPM Blue rear bulkhead
-RPM black front bumper / skid plate
-MIP Shiny CVD's
-MIP Ball bearing steering kit
-MIP 4 in 1 Clutch
-Factory team blue chassis
-Pro - Line Crowd Pleaser Body painted blue
-Full Ball bearings
-Serpent brand starting box
-New set of 4 Pro-Line Road Hawgs on-road tires w/ foams
-Extra stock front and rear control arms
-Extra fuel tank
-Extra stock exhaust pipe

Still needs a few things, like a diff rebuild and a couple more upgrades, but other than that and normal scratches, it's in pretty good shape, the ABN motor even has good pinch...

one other thing.. are the stock C-hubs and knuckle pretty tough? I was thinking RPM for the rear and aluminum for the front, just curious on how the stockers hold up.... Thanks!

Joebaby35

My Feedback: (14)

Sounds like a good truck. As far as I know there is no upgrade for the GT to match the GT2. The Standard GT is a very tough truck and it sounds like you got a lot of RPN parts already installed so I would not change anything. The stock C-Hub and Knuckles are fine unless they are worn out. If they are worn out then you will have a lot of slop but they will not break any easier.

I don't know if you plan on racing this truck or not, but if you do I would remove the RPM Arms and install the stock arms. The RPM arms are very strong but they flex a lot more then the stock arms causing inconsistent handling. If you are just planning to bash then I would leave everything as it is.

I currently have many of the trucks and I bought and sold a lot of them. I think I only broke 1 knuckle out of all the GT's I ever had and that was because it was like 20 degrees out and the plastic was very brittle. I never broke any C-Hubs but I have worn out a lot of them.

The do make a kit to widen the truck to the max legal racing specs. The rear uses all RC10 B4 parts and the front uses wide front axles (I cannot find the link right now but I will post it later tonight when I am home and can search for it).

Have fun with the truck the RC10GT is a great truck and will provide a lot of fun.
Good luck with the truck.

duckedup

It seems like a good truck, I've always liked them but every time I had the $$, something else was calling my name, so... the trade thing worked out good and the opportunity came at the right time [sm=thumbup.gif]

I was thinking about racing, and the RPM parts that it has are probably what I would have bought too.. until seeing your post that is.. oh-well, it came with the stockers too, so I'm alright there..

I've seen the front end widening kit, it was on a site called Bay something? Looks like a RC10GT/GT2 specific site.. they're sold out right now anyway, I think it was around $18 for the kit and made the GT as wide as a T4...

Thanks for the reply..... it's been a while since I've ran a ST, looking forward to getting this thing back together and tearin' it up

duckedup

Got another Q for you GT owners.... Joebaby35, you said to go back to the stock arms for racing? I have a set of stockers that came with the truck, these things look really flimsy though [sm=50_50.gif] how well do they hold up? It might just be me, being used to the large parts from MT's (been a while since I've ran a ST), but these don't seem very solid.... Are the RPM's really that bad (for flex) ?

hanney

My Feedback: (1)

the stock arms are very good, i personally like them better than the RPM ones. but the stock arms get very brittle after alot of use.

avg_joe

It boils down to personal preference, and how you drive.
The RPM arms are designed to bend under extreme conditions. They aren't supposed to flex until they get alot of force exerted on them. It isn't like they are flapping like albatross wings.
If you put the RPMs on and get the setup dialed, and you get used to driving it that way, it will be consistent.(if you are)
If you are a hardcore racer, and every little bit could mean the edge.....(and your pocketbook can take the hit every time you tangle with the boards), then I could see it.
But before you can expect to see a difference there, the rest of the truck would have to be in top condition.
....New ball cups everywhere, all the time.
....New bearings, and hub carries often(long before they fail).
....Freshly rebuilt shocks, and captured ends replaced often.
....Bearing bellcranks.
....Hi-torque, hi-speed steering servo.
....Fresh balanced tires with fresh foams.
This is coming from a non-racer, though. And I have run RPMs for along time. And I am a cheapskate, and don't wanna replace parts until they get worn OUT, not just worn.

duckedup

Thanks for the feedback guys.... I guess I'll just see what I see huh? .. I'm gonna' give the RPM's a shot before I decide, because I like RPM parts

kyle9013

My Feedback: (1)

What Engines can fit into the Rc10gt?
what is a good one for it?

Jasonaudio317

I have had my Factory RC10 GT for bout a week now and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for a good racing gear ratio. Right now I have a 66 spur and a 19 clutch bell. Seems to be geared real high cause it wont even try to pick the front wheels up. But on the other hand it seems to scream on the top end. The track I am tryed to run on has a few medium straights, but I need an all round gear for the corners and for the straights. Any suggestions?

Oliver_Klozov

im new here but you might want to try a 17 tooth with a 66 spur gear or maybe even 16 and 66. Ive tried 17 and 60 17 and 66 15 and 66.

rclynx

Tight small track low gears, big track with long straight aways tall gears / Back yard bashing, low gears, Street racing tall gears / Screaming engine [sm=punching.gif] unless your a race pro "who cares" LOL

duckedup

I'm not sure if anyone here has a CVEC pipe or not but does anyone know if there is an online manual for it ? ... I'm not really sure how to tune this thing (with the piston inside) or if I should just leave the piston out ? .... I did a search, and as usual, turned up anything and everything, nothing really specific..... I did find several threads with mixed opinions on it (the tuning part), but not enough info to help any....[sm=confused.gif]

avg_joe

Sounds like you have a job to do then.
Start playing around and testing different configurations, and then you can come back and tell us what's up.

duckedup

Yeah, I figured it out.. I couldn't figure out how the darn piston/spring was supposed to go in (came un-installed obviously) and realized that the baffle also unscrewed and came out too heheh.... I'm starting out at the 3rd hole (right in the middle) and I'll go from there I guess.. I feel like a noob all over again [:@].....

and I can also see why these things are known for leaking, the halves aren't exactly snug when screwed together... should be an easy fix though, a little plumbers tape or RTV should do the trick.

MazdaSpeed

I just picked one of these up as well used.. very cool truck. my first truck and first nitro haha.. damn onroad cars. Now what I want to know is what the deal is with the upper rear shock mounts. Right now the suspension in the rear and front is set to it's furthest (inner) so it would sit the chassis lower. I want to move them A hole over atleast but the screws just turn and don't come out. Are they pressed in? Did this guy do something to keep them in?

Also what is a good setup suspension wise for just some random backyard bashing, mild jumps.

Right now he has a wackload of spring shims in and im not sure about the shock oil and pistons.

Thanks!

hanney

My Feedback: (1)

Mazda-
when i changed out my stock towers it was hard to get out. it took me like 5 min to get each out, it takes alot of twisting, i used a pair of pliers to grab it. should eventually come out.

Colin-

2.5_rustler

do i have the factory team version because i was told i have the long chassis version







[img=http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/2299/1004845zs8.th.jpg]

TKCastle

Long chassis means that it has the blue chassis. The blue chassis is longer then the black tub chassis it replaced. As far as it being a F/T I think the F/T trucks came with hard anodized shock bodies, kind of like a gold grey color and your are blue. You may have the Team built version.
Mike.