Official RC10GT Thread
#2351
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
i see you have a metal trany case is their any advantage to that? i have every rpm part made on my car.i have been thinking of upgrading the whole car to metal. i feel the cost out ways what i would be getting the only thing that i really have problems with is when i am bashing. the turnbuckles the cup and ball joints come apart very easy.i think cause the rpm products bend any suggestions on a better setup?
the metal parts i was thinking of getting were to just make the car look better really.
the metal parts i was thinking of getting were to just make the car look better really.
#2353
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
The metal tranny case is because i had enough of strpping screws on a diff rebuild so i bought it and no mor pbs since then,i have RPM arm's all around but for the turbuckles on the rear end i use 1/8 cups and ball ends as they are thicker and don't pop out as easy.Here in Finland i get what i can get in the local LHS where they sell only kyosho stuff and the shop is so small and the guy never has anything in stock.
I would not upgrade arms to alloy, in case of a crash they bend once and for all ,i really prefer RPM as they never snap .
With all thoses years upgrading my RC10GT , now i can really say that the car is bullet proof and i hardly never break anything on it .
I would not upgrade arms to alloy, in case of a crash they bend once and for all ,i really prefer RPM as they never snap .
With all thoses years upgrading my RC10GT , now i can really say that the car is bullet proof and i hardly never break anything on it .
#2354
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
lol yes i have had my car for about 8 years now and will not upgrade to the gt2.
here is a good tip for you if you are running RPM A arms. i do not know how long you have had then but i have had mine about 7 years and the only problem i have had with them is sag. i like to pull them off every six months or so. the front ones tend to bow and the back ones tend to twist. hold the two backs together and the two fronts together all four hinge pin joints should meet if they dont then boil them for about 20 minutes they are just like new again.
here is a good tip for you if you are running RPM A arms. i do not know how long you have had then but i have had mine about 7 years and the only problem i have had with them is sag. i like to pull them off every six months or so. the front ones tend to bow and the back ones tend to twist. hold the two backs together and the two fronts together all four hinge pin joints should meet if they dont then boil them for about 20 minutes they are just like new again.
#2358
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Well this thread could continue indefinately with just the two of you back and forth No offoad tracks around me but Im going to be racing my T4 soon. Waiting on my diff bolt, thrust washers and balls to come in to get it going again. I'll post a pic in a day or so.
#2360
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Just got it all back together. For some reason I had plastic thrust washers in the tranny and they deformed. Here's a pic like I promised.
#2361
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
nice rig i like the yellow rpm. i did alot of calling around this week and finaly found all the parts i have been looking for, shipping time is up to a month on some. i sent out my chasy and everything else i have metal to be polished. i have a whole lot of metal on the way as well. i will send pics as they come in.i have a lot full of rpm on order with my lhs that should be in next week. i figure i best get all the parts i need now then worry about the engine later they will always make engines but i see gt1 parts are falling fast. i would like to know if trinity ever made a rear bulkhead for the gt i found the front but i did not fined a back was this part made by them?
#2362
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
OK 2 more things first where is your fuel line going in that picture? second this is the real question what brand of break and throttle linkage are you useing? it looks like the way to go.
#2363
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
After I run I take the fuel line off so I can run all fuel out of the engine. So, I put the fuel line back in the pressure nipple on the tank so no fuel drips out. I don't think trinity made a rear bulk for the GT. If you want alloy GPM made a rear, but if you want durability you can't beat the RPM one like I have on mine. The throttle linkage is the OFNA linkage kit and is the way to go. It's pretty popoular for the GT.
#2364
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Toki tower still stocks all the parts. I just put in an order and everything was in stock. I'm sure they wont stock as much but im sure they will keep parts. Altho some parts are not listed but if you type in the ae part numbers it comes up.
#2370
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
that gt is too clean. you need to get some wheels and dirt on that bad boy.... what do you think of the stocker ae .15 motor? i loved the thing it hauled ass once the exhaust was ported.
#2371
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RE: Official RC10GT Thread
i love the motor the bottem end is a little weak so i put a MIP booster bottle on it. it should give it a little more juice at low rpm and it takes the edge off the power band i ran it on my o.s. 12 and my o.s. 15
how do you port the exhaust. I did a little grinding on the intake and boost port but i did not want to go to far so i just made a couple grinds on each one.
I just picked up a titanium rear skid plate and 2 titanium shock towers blue fly wheele and a titanium break. new GPM struts blue and countless little things. it should be in the mud in the next couple weeks. oh yes and a titanium front bulkhead.
how do you port the exhaust. I did a little grinding on the intake and boost port but i did not want to go to far so i just made a couple grinds on each one.
I just picked up a titanium rear skid plate and 2 titanium shock towers blue fly wheele and a titanium break. new GPM struts blue and countless little things. it should be in the mud in the next couple weeks. oh yes and a titanium front bulkhead.